Eventorbot

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Revision as of 12:11, 4 September 2012 by Eventorbot (talk | contribs) (Video clips and tutorials:)
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Eventorbot! Open source 3D printer. Simple with less materials. Frame is made of a single 4' long, 2 1/2" square tube (16 gauge/1.5mm/.0598" thick, cost: less then $20.00). With the design there is less plastic parts, stronger structure, all wires are hidden, and a more appealing/finish look.

The unit is supposed to resemble a robotic arm with hydraulic tubes. It was designed for prints to be less effected by vibrations. With the 1 solid frame, any vibrations of any axis will cause the other axis to move with it. For example: If the X axis causes a slight vibration/1mm movement to the right, the Z and Y axis will also move that 1mm to the right. This will result in a better print as everything will remain squared.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28915#

Direct download: File:Blue print.skp

For more images and updates like:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Eventorbot/111169638934671


UPDATE:

Okay, so here is my current plans. I'm going to finish the tutorial videos and plans first (http://www.youtube.com/user/eventorbot should not take more then 3 videos). After that I will contact my metal company and see if they can use their plasma cutter to make the cuts and holes we need for our frames.

For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. I have had experience making molds and using urethane plastic. I will try to make molds of the plastic parts and mold it with urethane plastic. This plastic is very rigid and durable, and is equal or better then ABS.

Note: For those who have 3d printers. The main bed, that supports the linear rods will also be available, as many printers are not able to print it because of the size.


Specifications

  • Printed Parts: 37
  • Non-Printed Parts: 2.5" square steel frame (16 gauge/1.5mm/.0598" thick, cost: less then $20.00)
  • Printing Size: 152 x 152 x 152 (mm)
  • Material Cost: $300-$500 (DIY)
  • Costs: $799 (assembled)
  • Precision: .1mm-.5mm nozzle


Eventorbot reprap 1.jpg


Video clips and tutorials:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZsJAchkd6A&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUZKqjrOeSU&feature=plcp

1st tutorial, Metal frame: youtube.com/watch?v=XgLoQZsGVb4

Parts list:

(1) 4' long, 2 1/2" metal square tube (this will be used for the main frame and the hot head mount). Diagram: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85781

(3) Nema 17 stepper motor (at least 3 kg-cm 4 Wire). Specs for current motors used PDF: http://eventorbot.com/pics/3%20kg-cm%204%20Wire%20NEMA%2017%20Stepper%20Motor.pdf

(1) Geared stepper motor for extruder. (more info soon).

(12) 8mm linear bearings, model: LM8UU. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/LM8UU.jpg

(4) 8mm ball bearing, model: 608Z. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/608Z.jpg

(1) 9 1/2" long 5/16 threaded rod (for Z axis). Note: Most likely you will have some leftover after your 9 1/2" cut, use that piece to cut a 13mm long piece for: http://eventorbot.com/pics/rod%20for%20extruder%20bearing.jpg

(6) 10.5" long 8mm rod. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/8mm%20linear%20rod.jpg

(1) Coupler 5mm to 8mm. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/5mm-8mm%20coupler.jpg

(1) Set of printed plastic parts (stl files listed on thingiverse.com soon).

(optional) 1 set of printed decorative end caps (stl files listed on thingiverse.com soon).

(1) Set of screws. List: http://eventorbot.com/hardware.htm

(1) Sanguinololu 1.3a mother board with ramps. Ramps to be compatible to steppers (it should come with pin connectors and pins). Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/Sanguinololu%20board.jpg

(1) MK7 drive gear (gear to drive the filament). Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/mk7_drive_gear.jpg

(1) 4 foot of XL timing belt. PDF: http://eventorbot.com/pics/XL%20schematic.pdf

(4) Push button momentary end stop switches. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/Push%20button%20momentary%20switch.JPG

(1) Bed. Aluminum or pexi-glass 8.5" x 11", 1/8" thick. (thickness does not have to be exact). Diagram: http://eventorbot.com/pics/bed%20diagram.skp

(4) Springs for bed (this box should have all the springs you need for any circumstances: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100142075/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=springs&storeId=10051#.UDZP5tXDCSo

(8) Rubber feet (bore holes need to be able to allow 10-32 screws) Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/rubber%20feet.jpg

(1) Roll of 1/4" black poly tubing. Cut to: (1)14" for hothead wires, (1)20" for filament feeder, (1)12" for bed to mother board tray connection. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/hose.jpg

(6) Air pneumatic tube 6mm push in connector fittings. (Total Size 21mm x 12mm/ 0.82" x 0.47"(L*W) Thread Diameter 9mm/ 0.354) Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/hose%20connector.jpg

(1) 5.5 mm x 2.1mm DC power jack socket female panel mount connector. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/DC%20Power%20Jack.jpg NOTE: If you choose to use a hotbed, upgrade this jack to something that can handle at least 13amps. As for your power source, you can use a Xbox 360 power brick. Xbox 360 power brick is 16amp and is more then enough to handle the power (under $20.00).

(1) Laptop charger 12 volt DC at least 5 amp. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/power%20supply.jpg

(1) Hot end assembly (SKP file on diagram and how to build coming soon)


== Locations for screws ==

File: "Hardware.skp" shows the locations of all the screws. Please use the free google sketchup software, to zoom and view in 3D. http://www.thingiverse.com/download:86011


== Printable plastic parts ==


STL files and quantity's of prints:

(2) bed A p1 P-022: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85931

(2) bed A p2 P-023: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85932

(1) bed carriage p1 P-012: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85921

(1) bed carriage p2 P-013: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85922

(1) bed carriage p2 P-015: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85924

(1) bed carriage p3 P-014: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85936

(1) bed p1 P-020: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85929

(1) bed p2 P-021: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85930

(1) extruder housing P-002: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85911

(2) footing 1 P-009: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85917

(4) footing 2 P-010: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85918

(1) mother board tray P-003: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85912

(3) motor mount P-005: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85913

(2) pulley gear P-006: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85914

(2) rod support p1 P-016: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85925

(2) rod support p2 P-017: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85926

(1) spool holder P-011: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85919

(1) spool holder 2 P-011: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85920

(1) x carriage P-007: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85915

(1) x carriage part 2 P-008: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85916

(1) z carriage p1 P-018: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85927

(1) z carriage p2 P-019: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85928


Optional Decorative caps:

(2) corner cap P-001: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85933

(2) end cap P-004: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85934



After you have finished the frame and have welded the corners together, you will also have to cut a 2.5" x 2.5" square on top of the frame (the corner caps will cover this corner).

Last frame cut display medium.jpg




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