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Release status: Working

Budaschnozzle1-1 001.jpg
Description Truly free/libre hot end
License GPLv3
Author Aleph Objects, Inc.
Based-on Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0
Categories Extruders, Hot End
CAD Models none
External Link Budaschnozzle



Introducing the new generation of the LulzBot hotend, the Budaschnozzle 1.1. With some tweaks and beefing up of a few parts, the Budaschnozzle 1.1 is a more robust and reliable hotend.

The length of the hot zone was made longer to allow for faster printing. The PEEK isolator is now supported by the lower wooden plate with an internal thread. Nozzles are also now internally threaded and easily interchangable.


  • Aluminum Block Resistor Hotend
  • Easily assembled and torn down with no glue or ceramic
  • Wire Strain Relief
  • Includes machined aluminum and steel parts, and laser cut wooden parts
  • Compatible with Wade's and Greg's accessible extruder
  • Currently compatible with:


  • Size at longest parts: (H,W,L) 57mm, 40mm, 40mm
  • Aluminum heater block
    • Machined aluminum heat block: 18.4mm x 25mm x 8.3mm.
      • M10 x 1.0 internal thread
    • Machined aluminum nozzle, M10 x 1.0 internal thread, 0.5mm orifice
    • Thermistor temperature reading: Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01
    • Resistor heating element: Vishay RWM06226R80JA15E1
  • Aluminum and copper heatsink
  • PEEK insulator
  • PTFE inner sleeve
  • Laser cut hard wood plates
  • For use with 3mm filament. 1.75mm filament can be used by changeing the inner PTFE tube.
  • Machined stainless steel back-up plate



Mounting the Budaschnozzle is SUPER easy. Once your carriage is mounted and ready to go, place the Budaschnozzle into the carriage hotend hole. Line up the holes in the Budaschnozzle mount plate with the extruder mounting holes in the carriage. Put your extruder on top of the Budaschnozzle mount plate lining up the extruder mount holes with the holes in the mount plate and carriage. Push in the the screws that are compatible with your carriage (generally M4 screws). Screw on the nuts and tighten the screws. Bam, done.

Tip: Put a scrap piece of plastic filament through the extruder and into the hot-end before you tighten down the extruder. You do not need to heat the Budaschnozzle, just lightly push the filament down until it reaches the nozzle. This will align the filament travel space to give a nice smooth movement of the filament through the extruder and hot-end.


There are multiple nozzle sizes available and an optional PTFE tube for printing 1.75mm filament. Following are two videos showing how to change out these parts.

Changing out the PTFE tube for 1.75mm or 3mm filament.
Changing out extruder nozzles


A thermal table has been created for the Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01 thermistor for use with the Buddhaschnozzle. The thermal table is included in the Sprinter firmware and is used by selecting thermistor 7 in the Configuration.h file in Sprinter. Change the line "#define THERMISTORHEATER 1" to "#define THERMISTORHEATER 7"


Bill of Materials Spread sheet Spread sheet of bill of materials .ods
Heater Block 2D & 3D CAD drawings CAD drawing for the heater block .pdf
Nozzle 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the nozzle .pdf
Peek Isolator 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the PEEK isolator .pdf
Aluminum extension 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the aluminum extension .pdf
Upper Plate 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Upper Plate .dxf
Lower Plate 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Lower Plate .dxf
Backup Plate 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Backup Plate .pdf
Copper Heatsink 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Copper heatsink .pdf
Budaschnozzle Mount 3D CAD model and drawing 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle mount .stl
Budaschnozzle Assembly SolidWorks 2011 Assembly 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle thingiverse


LulzBot Budaschnozzle

Older versions

Budaschnozzle v1.0