FoldaRap Build Manual
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- 1,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for the pulleys grub screw)
- 2 mm hexagonal wrench (for M3 counterksunk bolts and pneumatic fittings "MA-12-03-M5")
- 2,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for normal M3 cap-head bolts and the rounded M4 bolts used for the frame)
- a flat screwdriver (for the psu's screw terminals)
- s small screwdriver (to set the drivers current)
You may need also :
- a 5,5mm flat spanner or a small pliers (for m3 nuts)
- something to cut wires, and strip them (knife, automatic striper, etc.)
- a lighter for the heat-shrink sleeves
- soldering iron (to eventually solder the endstops)
- small files (round, flat) to eventually ream the printed parts
- a glue gun (gluing the endstop on the printed part is easier/quicker than using bolts)
- a multimeter (to set the drivers current)
The build manual for the FoldaRap 1 is here.
- Read the whole manual once or twice before starting, to get an overview of the build
- Basically we have a main frame and several sub-assemblies, some can be done in parallel : gather your friends and establish a record for minimum building time ! (Actual best record : 4 hours)
- Work on a cutting mat if you have one, it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that will be useful to check the bolts length (with some experience you will recognize them just by looking or holding one).
- Place you mouse over a picture in a list if you wonder what part it is
- In case of doubt, don't hesitate to have a look at the 3d model in Sketchup (before/during the build), even if about a next version of the machine it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it :)
Ok let's start It should take approximately 12 hours to put everything together. From step 1 to 4 : 2-4 hours
Know the parts
Firstly, have a look at all the part and learn what everything is.
How to insert a T-nut
A part of the wiring depend of the combination of electronic board and power supply, for other version : FoldaRap_power-supplies
Z-Left / Z-Right
Different kind of power supply have been used in FoldaRap builds, if you don't recognize yours look at this page : FoldaRap power-supplies
Anyway, the principle is always 1) bolt the power supply on the plate, 2) then the plate on the base of the frame
Z-rods (need update)
Extruder(s) (need update)
Top-frame (need update)
Great ! You are almost done !
Have a pause, you need to be relaxed for the next step, or you can also just head to the end :)
- see also the emaker huxley hotend
- thermistor wires : +/- 70cm
- fan : prolongated to match +/- 70cm
Now lets plug everything to the board !
The Minitronics_10 page is well documented and the wiring should be quite easy with the male/female connectors.
- The drivers seems to use the same voltage reference as for a pololu (so we need to tune them between 0.4 - 0.5 V )
- cut wires
- solder wires
- in place
glued on the side
- thermistor (blue 70cm)
- fan : on a 12v pin (must be always on)
- printed-part cooling fan: on the "cooling fan" screw terminal (turned on by sending Mcode "M106 Sxxx" (xxx being between 0 and 255), turned off by "M107" but Slic3r automate this)
Finish by this one, as it is moving, the wires need to be above all the other wires.
- thermistor (blue 35cm)
- spiral wrapping band : for the wires that came out of the base.
If you have an aluminium heated bed look at this page : FoldaRap_Heated-Bed
Other versions : FoldaRap1.0_y-carriage
Tighten the belt by closing the loops with zip-ties, then trim everything (video of belt tensioning )
Tape (5-10 min)
- Kapton (polyimide) or blue tape (= outside masking tape, uv resistant usually with acrylic adhesive, PLA stick well to acrylic)
Leveling the bed and zeroing
The Z-zero is made when leveling the bed.
- Start by roughly leveling it
- then move the nozzle to the lowest point
- and adjust the 3 screws to level it regarding that height (by turning them until the homing move stop lowering the bed)
- repeat on each corners so the zero is exactly when the nozzle stop touching the bed (true for the four corners+center)
- I like to start with the X direction at the right bolt, then with the two at the left
"Bad" (the bolts need to be tightened)
- Once the plan is set from left to right you can check front/end
- after that it's supposed to be leveled but may need few more tweaking for the right corners
- Skeinforge : you will only have to add a little offset (altitude), to have the desired height for the first layer, usually the same as your layer height.
- Slic3r : leave z-offset at 0, it will add one layer height automatically (you still may have to adjust it slightly to fine tune the Z-zero, depending on where your endstop have been glued).
Another advantage of that : by moving to the center of the bed from the zero height, the nozzle is also wiped by the side of the bed from any purged plastic ;-)
Go go go first print !!!
This article will probably help you along your first print :)
Also have a look at the User Manual