The build manual for the FoldaRap 1 is here, the FoldaRap 2 is here.
While this one will evolve to become the version 2.5 build manual soon.
Read the whole manual once or twice before starting, to get an overview of the build
Basically we have a main frame and several sub-assemblies, some can be done in parallel : gather your friends and establish a record for minimum building time ! (Actual best record : 4 hours)
Work on a cutting mat if you have one, it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that will be useful to check the bolts length (with some experience you will recognize them just by looking or holding one).
Place you mouse over a picture in a list if you wonder what part it is
In case of doubt, don't hesitate to have a look at the 3d model in Sketchup (before/during the build), even if about a next version of the machine it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it :)
Ok let's start
It should take approximately 12 hours to put everything together.
From step 1 to 4 : 2-4 hours
Know the parts
Firstly, have a look at all the part and learn what everything is.
if you have insulated ferules, you can crimp them over plastic with a big pliers or push them out with a small hex key
cut some wires : 1 green wire 18WG one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (male plug Ground to power supply Ground)
crimp the ferules on the wires
eventually add a drop of solder to make a perfect connection
don't forget to insulate the ferules with the heatshrink sleeve (or to put back the plastic case)
the green wire in place, now to the red/black ones !
1 red wire of 9cm, 1 black of 7cm 18AWG, both ends with ferule (male plug Live/Neutral to switch Live/Neutral)
1 red and 1 black wire 18AWG one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (blue-switch Live/Neutral to power supply Live/Neutral). You may need longer wires depending of the power supply and it's position on the underplate, it may be good to shorten them later, once the psu is in place.
add the t-nuts
put the big blue switch in the rear-foot
now you can lock the Y-motor while pushing it against the same rear foot (the two small bumps helps to center the Y-motor)
pay attention to really lock the t-nut near the plug, as it is easy for now and later you will push against it when you plug the power cable in
A part of the wiring depend of the combination of electronic board and power supply, for other version : FoldaRap_power-supplies
there should be no play between the nuts and the printed part, too much play will cause Z backlash, but the rod should turn easily, if the nuts are too tightened it constraint the movement of the rod (the open space allow the rod to eventually wobble without transferring it to the part, as you can see on this video )
add the drive-gear on the motor shaft (make a flat if there isn't one)
x2 M3 nut
Top-frame (need update)
Great ! You are almost done !
Have a pause, you need to be relaxed for the next step, or you can also just head to the end :)
x1 heater block
screw the nozzle into the heater block until the nozzle meplat get aligned with the flat part of the heater block
screw the barrel into the heater block until it touches the nozzle
wrap the thermistor with a pice of Kapton...
... and place it into the heater block
x1 hotend heatsink (+ tube holder)
x1 PTFE tube
pass the PTFE tube in the tube holder and pass it through the heatsink hotend
screw the tube holder in the heatsink hotend
x1 hotend holder
orient the hotend heatsink so that the side with 5 holes is placed on the table (invisible)
screw the m3x8 into the hotend heatsink (on the side with 4 holes) through the hotend holder
push the PTFE tube in the barrel as much as possible
screw the barrel in the hotend heatsink...
... until the thread is aligned with the bottom part of the hotend heatsink and the edges of both metal parts are parallel (the longer part of the heater block is oriented towards the front of the hotend)
check the alignment of the heater block with the spout of the x-slider
the bottom part of the heater block must be aligned with the upper part of the spout holes
if the alignment is ok then fix the barrel in the hotend heatsink with a grubscrew
tighten the tube holder on the PTFE tube with a spanner: tight enough so that the tube is hold...
... but not too much so that the filament can still pass through it
x1 fan railings
x4 m3 washer
pass the 4 screws through the fan railings and the fan (wires oriented downward)
add the 4 M3 washers...
... and screw the elements in the hotend heatsink
x1 cartridge heater
keep 10cm of the cartridge heater wires (and save 70cm for the cable harness)
insert the cartrige heater in the heater block so that the wires run along the fan wires
fix the cartridge heater in the heater block with a grubscrew
x2 1mm ferrule
x2 heatshrink sleeve
strip one extremity of a black wire
crimp firmly the wire on the thermistor extremity with a ferule
add the heatshrink sleeve over the metal part and heat it with a lighter
cut the black wire the same length as the cartridge heater wires
once again: strip one extremity of a black wire
crimp firmly the wire on the thermistor extremity with a ferule
add the heatshrink sleeve over the metal part...
... and heat it with a lighter
bring the black wire together with the others...
... and cut it the same length as the others
x1 male casing
x6 female ferrule
strip the 6 extremities of the wires
crimp one female ferrule on each extremity...
... and insert them in the male casing just like on the picture - 1: fan (red wire on top)
2: thermistor (wires' position doesn't matter)
3: cartridge heater (wires' position doesn't matter)
your hotend is almost ready! you still need to heat the hotend and tighten the nozzle in the heater block as much as possible but you first have to do the wiring...
x2 2 pin-wire with connector
x2 cartridge wire (70cm)
x1 female casing
x6 male ferrule
x2 end piece
shorten both 2 pin-wires with connector to 70cm
strip the extremities
take the 70cm cartridge wires that you've saved previously
strip the extremities
crimp firmly the male ferrules on the 6 wires
place the cartridge wires on the left of the female casing...
... and push the male ferrules until they get locked in the casing
place both 2 pin-wires with connector so that the red wire is upward
place both end-pieces at the extremities of the cartridge wires...
... and crimp firmly
your cable harness is ready to be connected
x1 bed plate
x3 m3x30 countersunk
x3 m3 nut
peel of the paper and stick the film heater on the plate
each board-mount is mounted to the board with a m3x8 and will use a t-nut to be held on the frame
Setting the drivers current
before pluging the wires on the Minitronics you will have to adjust the potentiometers; at first potentiometers are oriented downward...
... turn them COUNTERCLOCKWISE and SLOWLY with a small screwdriver to orient them like on the picture.
Now lets plug everything to the board !
Look at the Minitronics_10 page, it is well documented and the wiring should be quite easy with the male/female connectors.
a switch wired this way is usually "normally closed", we will use this option
a switch wired this way is usually "normally open"
the firmware in the github repository is programmed for NC switches, but you can always change this value if needed
glued on the side
x1 zip-tie (or 2 m2x10 bolt)
endstops use the S and - pins of the connectors
thermistor (blue 75cm)
heater (red 75cm)
fan : on a 12v pin (must be always on)
printed-part cooling fan: if the hotend's fan is alway on, this one is controlled by the electronic board via the "cooling fan" screw terminal (turned on by sending Mcode "M106 Sxxx" (xxx being between 0 and 255), turned off by "M107" but Slic3r automate this)
The PCB is used as a heatsink and must be cooled from the underside with a 40mm fan or bigger, this is important to do with such a compact board.
Finish by this one, as it is moving, the wires need to be above all the other wires.
heater element (the two thicker wires)
tip : you can hold the bed in the front profile while wiring the cables
Voilà ! (from left to right, it's always -/+ | -/+ | -/+ | -/+
It may be a little messy at first but once finished everything is tidy and protected in the base of the machine :)
spiral wrapping band : for the wires that came out of the base.
x2x1 (with 32cm green wires for y-endstop)
Slide the smooth rods through one side
then through the Y-carriage
and finish on the other side
The Y-motor was centered by the rear-foot-right, to align the Y-idler too check that the carriage run smoothly. By moving it will tend to center the Y-idler (or look that it seems at an equal distance from each front-foot. Once satisfied you can lock the Y-idler in place.
Make a loop at each end of the belt with zip-ties (pay attention to the orientation of the zip-ties)
pass it through the y-idler
why the orientation is important
Tighten the belt by closing the loops with zip-ties, then trim everything (video of belt tensioning )
fix the Y-endstop on the smooth-rod with a zip-tie or glue it on the front-foot side
Tape (5-10 min)
Kapton (polyimide) or blue tape (= outside masking tape, uv resistant usually with acrylic adhesive, PLA stick well to acrylic)
Making the bed parallel and zeroing
The Z-zero is made when making the bed parallel to the nozzle.
Start by roughly makin it parallel
then move the nozzle to the lowest point
and adjust the 3 screws to move it regarding that height (by turning them until the homing move stop lowering the bed)
repeat on each corners so the zero is exactly when the nozzle stop touching the bed (true for the four corners+center)
I like to start with the Y direction with the two bolts, then with the remaining one
Here is a video to show what I mean by "the homing move stop lowering the bed"
"Bad" (the bolts need to be tightened)
Once the plan is set from left to right you can check front/end
after that it's supposed to be parallel but may need few more tweaks that will be revealed by observing the first layer of a print
Skeinforge : you will only have to add a little offset (altitude), to have the desired height for the first layer, usually the same as your layer height.
Slic3r : leave z-offset at 0, it will add one layer height automatically (you still may have to adjust it slightly to fine tune the Z-zero, depending on where your endstop have been glued).
Another advantage of that : by moving to the center of the bed from the zero height, the nozzle is also wiped by the side of the bed from any purged plastic ;-)
Go go go first print !!!
This article will probably help you along your first print :)