Generation 3 Electronics/Tech Zone Remix/How to

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TechZone Remix Electronics Kit How to Manual

Release status: unknown

Electronicshookedup.JPG
Description "How to" Manual for the Techzone Remix Electronics Kit
License GPL
Author Mdbaughman2
Contributors
Based-on [[]]
Categories
CAD Models none
External Link none

!!! I'm writing this as a manual to the "TechZone Electronics Kit"... Please feel free to edit any errors or discrepancies... feel free to add to this page...


UPDATE: due to my current workload I don't have the time to finish this page. so I'm releasing this page to the hands of our great community for finishing! so please, if this page has helped you, please contribute to make this page even better! I'll still be keeping up with the admin duties (keeping everything in order) for this page.. thanks everybody for your help! Mdbaughman2


  • In this Pic the step/direction cable that runs from the Motherboard to the Extruder-Board is missing!
    • Electronicshookedup.JPG

Contents

Before We Begin... Things You Should Know...

First: (Kiymberly, Here's your cue!!! this parts all YOU! jump im here! we need an intro-draft... I'll arrange it later)


!!!Warning!!!

  • Static Discharge Warning...
    • These, as with most electronics, are prone to damage by means of static discharge! You MUST use the appropriate prevention measures necessary!

  • General warning about carefully adjusting Pots... explaining: how the default firmware uses the pot (extruder board)... and the way it affects Current (frying the drivers), and, driver IC Over-Heating Warning with heat-sink recommendation (Needs to be written..)
    • Making metal flowers.JPG
  • loose cable warning (screws tight and cable in tight..no loose strands...(Needs to be written..)

FAQ's

  • Firmware Fact (unfinished)
    • The TechZone electronics kit comes with Makerbot firmware by default! This means that it already has a boot-loader installed. Also this means that the ReprepMendel Firmware needs to be uploaded to the Motherboard and Extruder-board to re-configure them PROPERLY before you start connecting/testing them... Note you MUST be able to upload firmware or you will be stuck! the firmware is where the software and settings ___bla___bla gone cross eyed... need break....


About this Page: (A note from the Author(s).)

In this page I will attempt to give you an idea about how to go about wiring your Mendel. However you must realize that since these boards are a new development that there is no "official" way of wiring them. So the idea here is for us to kinda like, build "our own" (the community's) DIY manual.

  • All of the images used are shrunk down from their original size... Just click on an image to see it in High-Resolution... A few images might be a little fuzzy...(I'll try to update them soon.)
  • All references to wiring connections are placed under the heading "Making the connection..."
  • If some instructions are difficult to understand, ask in the forums and then update the information here.

Overview

As we get started it can be a good idea to see get an overview of the assembled boards.

Mounting plate / Thick sheet

Decide early on which mounting plate you want to use, as it will be easier (and neater) to wire up when you have the boards in a fixed place. The Tech Zone Remix are tiny compared to the first RepRap electronics, so you don't need all the space the original thick sheet offers. One good option for the Mendel is this excellent design by Azdle, which is simple to make with a jigsaw and a drill press.

Here is a variation on Azdle's design made from a (used) nylon chopping board. Adzle's idea is great because the amount of cabling required around your reprap is significantly reduced, particularly if you move the Z opto to the side with the Z motor. A file for laser cutting based on this variation is available.

TechZoneCuttingBoardMount1.jpg TechZoneCuttingBoardMount2.jpg TechZoneCuttingBoardMount3.jpg TechZoneCuttingBoardMount4.jpg TechZoneCuttingBoardMount5.jpg

Another option is to use an old CD case and drill some holes into it for the standoffs like the 1st picture below The 2nd picture showss how the other half of the CD case can be mounted easily, and the 2 halves can be separated which makes it convenient to work on. The trick to drilling into a CD case is to apply absolutely no pressure. Allow the weight of the drill to slowly shave the plastic away, and drill as slow as possible, this will keep it from cracking.

DSCN0077.jpg DSCN0078.jpg

Ground points

All these points are connected, so it's a good way to test for proper connections with a multimeter as you go along. It's a good idea to mark these points with a pen so you find them easily.

Ground points

All boards connected

(Pictures with text to come)

The USB/TTL Board

File:USBTTL&OptoLayout.cdr.pdf

This board is not available in the original Generation 3 Electronics, people use a cable instead. As an alternative, at other places in the reprap forum you can find instructions for using a generic breakout board and Serial adapter.

This board also has footprints for two other usb to serial chips, one is just an QFN package of the ft232rl the other is for an CP2102 chip (which we still need to test)


Here I made a support out of thick paper. Then I could mount the board using wire-ties.
  • To begin we need to clearly mark the ground pin of the serial connection...
    • Marking the usb ttl.jpg
      • Marking the ground pin on all your connectors, IS a very good habit/practice to have with this electronics set!
  • Drivers
    • I have tried 3 Different sets of (Windows) "FTDI USB" drivers and all seem to work fine... The drivers I tried are as follows:
      • 1. The drivers that come bundled with replecatorG-0014
      • 2. The drivers that come bundled with anduino 18
      • 3. The drivers off the IC Manufacture's website

The Main Motherboard

File:MainboardLayout.cdr.pdf

The TechZone Remix is drastically reduced in size, The SD card slot has been replaced with a microSD card slot, which is on the back side to further reduce size of the board. extra pins on the I2c communications have been removed (which results in the same number of pins and connections as what you end up with when you modify the Generation 3 Electronics as per the directions here.

We have also added an additional footprint for the processor, to allow the use of the QFN pack instead of the TQFP (it is much more difficult to solder, but, it is much easier to find and purchase)(here we need a pic of the mother board labeling the pins... by needed connections..(connections that apply to reprap Mendel)

Connecting The Motherboard to the USB/TTL Board to Load Firmware:

(need a pic of usbTTLboard connected to mother board using 6pin ribbon)

Making the Connection:

  • Here we need to connect the motherboard to the USB/TTL board using the supplied 6 conductor ribbon cable.
  • serial polarity warning (Needs to be written..)
  • Making Your Cables (Insulation Displacement Connectors)
    • In this section I explain how to punch-down a IDC connector with a very narrow (width) flat tip screwdriver. However I do reccomend that you solder these cables rather than punching them down..
    • The first thing you want to do is separate the tip of the ribbon into short strands so it can be inserted into the cable (pic)
    • Next using a small precision screwdriver you want to lightly tap the each conductor as to get it started.. This is to hold the ribbon while you do the next step... (Here I'm demonstrating with a 3pin connector. however the 6pin and 2pin cables use the same technique..)
      • IDC punchdown1.jpg IDC punchdown2.jpg
    • Next take an even narrower screwdriver and tap the wires down the rest of the way. Being careful not to stab through the conductor!
      • IDC punchdown3.jpg Image a lil fuzzy sorry (needs to be updated..)
    • Once finished check your cable with a MultiMeter for open's and short's.
    • The Jumper Technique...
      • This is a solution I came up with to upload the needed firmware for setup, bench testing and for troubleshooting cable problems... As you can see from the pictures below I used reversible jumpers that I pulled from old computer parts.
        • Jumpers example.JPGAttaching Jumpers.JPGJumpers mother-board 1.JPGJumpers mother-board 2.JPG
      • Note if you use this technique on the extruder board, you will need to flip the USB/TTY board Top-Side-Down... due to the fact that the ground pin on the extruder board is on the opposite side!

Uploading Firmware

  • Once you have connected your USB/TTL interface to your motherboard you can upload the Motherboard 5Gfirmware for the first-time!!!
  • If you have 2 pins next to the serial connector you can put a jumper on them for the board to be powered from the USB connection. (In the recent versions of Techzone remix electronics sets sold from Ebay - May 2010)
  • The processes of uploading firmware are the same as the Makerbot set... The only difference is that the auto reset jumper to upload firmware is already installed... Microcontroller_firmware_installation

The Extruder Board

File:ExtruderLayout.cdr.pdf
Here I am marking the ground pin of the serial 6pin connector.

Again, the TechZone Remix is considerably smaller. This circuit has the least modification, since there were no extraneous pins or connectors.

We did change the screw down terminal used for the temp connection to a 2 pin .1" jumper terminal.

We also used higher amp mosfets in a Dpak configuration (almost all standard mosfets in a Dpak will work on this board, so you can select values which are correct for your use, if you are building your own.

We added an additional footprint for the processor (like on the Mainboard, and for the same reasons) and we added a footprint to the full bridge control chip(s). We are currently using the additional bridge motor control footprint for testing... so, more to come on that in a few weeks we hope.

  • pot/current warning (Needs to be written..)
  • Driver IC Overheating Warning (Needs to be written..)
    • Making metal flowers.JPG
  • polarity warning (Needs to be written..)
  • serial polarity warning (Needs to be written..)
  • loose cable warning (screws tight and cable in tight..(Needs to be written..)

Uploading Firmware

  • Jumpers Again? Yep (Needs to be written..)(pics)
    • TEXT
      • (PIC)
    • Note if you use this technique on the extruder board, you will need to flip the USB/TTY board up-side-down... due to the fact that the ground pin on the extruder board is on the opposite side!
  • Reset trick (Needs to be written..) (the key is when the grey line of text appears)

Making the Connection

Now that you have installed the firmware on your Motherboard and Extruder Board, your can now mount you boards and get started connecting!

  • A note on Wire Preparation: Its always a good idea to tin (tin: to put solder on)your wires! it helps keep the strands of the wires together (to prevent a short) and it also help keep the wires from breaking/getting pulled out.. (It gives the screw terminal something to bite down on..)
    • Tinning wires1.JPG Snipping the tinning.JPG



  • 12 Volt power connection(Needs to be written..)
    • ExtruderBoard12vTZ.JPG


  • Heater connection (Needs to be written..)
    • ExtruderBoard Heating ElementTZ.JPG


  • Cooling Connection (Needs to be written..)
    • ExtruderBoard CoolingTZ.JPG
  • Here are all three connected...
    • ALL ABC TZ.jpg


  • Temperature Connection (Needs to be written..)(pic)


  • Stepper Motor Connection
    • Wiring the First coil from my stepper motor.
      • ExtruderStepper wiring1TZ.JPG
    • Wiring the Second coil from my stepper motor.
      • ExtruderStepper wiring2TZ.JPG
    • Here the stepper motor is connected
      • ExtruderStepper wiring3TZ.JPG
    • If the stepper motor turns backwards... you can correct it in the firmware or you can swap the coil wires... The simplest solution is to swap the wires changing it in firmware is not as simples would be the case if this was a true stepper motor driver.
      • ExtruderStepper wiring4TZ.JPG


  • Rs485 Connection (pics still needed)

Use the 2 pin connectors provided in the cable pack for these connections. Connect the RS485 pins on the motherboard to the extruder board. This need to be straight through connections (not crossed). Full details about this are provided on Testing an Extruder Controller page. It should be noted that the temp report back from the board will depend on the firmware configuration and may not be 499.


  • Step/Direction Connection (pics still needed)

This needs to be correctly connected for the stepper motor to turn in any form. It is not an i2c connection although it uses the i2c pins on the motherboard. SLA needs to be connected to Pin 9 on the extruder board and SLC needs to be connected to Pin 10. Do not connect to the i2c pins on the extruder board as these are not used and if the connection is to these, nothing will happen. Use the 2 pin connectors provided in the cable pack for these connections.


  • CD-Rom Audio Cable Technique:
    • This is one solution against Cable Noise. (RMI or magnetic Interference..) This is one of the things i did to solve a problem where my extruder-stepper was going crazy.[1]
      • What i did was i used a cd-rom analog audio cable for my i2c signal... using a small screw driver, i was able to remove the pins from the connectors and re-arranged them to my needs leaving the ground pins loose so i could connect them to the ground pins on the boards...
        • CDROM Audio Cable Convertion1.jpg CD-Rom Audio Cable Technique1.jpg

Stepper Controller Board

File:StepperLayout.cdr.pdf

I don't think we made any chages here, except for the size, and pre-changing the connections as per the RepRap configurations (here)[[PCB adaptions for Mendel]

  • pot/current warnings
  • Overheating Warning
    • Making metal flowers.JPG
  • Marking the Ground connection...
    • Marking opto connector TZstepper.JPG.JPG

Making the Connection

  • Stepper motor and 12 volt power connection
First coil from stepper
Second coil from stepper
Stepper connected
Swap coils or correct firmware if it runs backwards
12v connection

It is important to note from the above pictures. Coil 1 should be attached to A and B and the second coil should be attached to C and D as shown in the above pictures for coil1 and coil2. It may be possible that you have a datasheet that labels the coils as being, A and C, B and D, and providing the colour of the wires to go with it. If you then follow the datasheet as the instructions for the pinouts of the stepper motor you will get strange and undefined behavior. Once you have the coils connected to the correct pins the rotation of the stepper motors should be clear and simple to follow. It is always worth checking the schematic of the board and double checking that you have connected the stepper motors correctly.

  • Here are a few ways to make a 10 pin cable...
    • Making a 10pin IDC Cable.. Here i show how to identify the Pin#1 side of the 10pin connector. The triangle on the connector indicates the location of pin1. Always keep the striped (Red) conductor of your ribbon on the pin1 side!
      • First you need to remove the tail piece from the connector.
        • 10pinIDC1.jpg


    • Make 2 out of an IDE cable (PICS)
      • Taking a IDE cable from a computer, I was able to Make 2 10pin ribbon cables using a hack saw (pic)...
      • by cutting the connector almost all the way through (PIC) with the saw I was able to achieve a clean break through the last bit of plastic close to the cable. (PIC)


  • Make a breakout to use a Stepper Board to drive your Stepper Extruder Motor... (optional Stepper board needed)
    • Coming soon! (Oh, I already have the stepper board for the documenting of this section.. I'll get to it soon! (Mdbaughman2))

The Opto End-stop

File:USBTTL&OptoLayout.cdr.pdf

This board is not based upon the OptoEndstop_2.1, but it uses the same opto-sensor... it may still be a derivative of the OptoEndstop_2.1 board.

  • It behaves differently, the LED lights up when there is NOT an object in the sensor, rather than when there IS an object in the sensor
  • Polarity Warning

Make the connection...

  • Jumpers to the rescue!
  • Making Your Cables (Insulation Displacement Connectors)
    • The first thing you want to do is separate the tip of the ribbon into short strands so it can be inserted into the cable. However I do reccomend that you solder these cables rather than punching them down..
    • Next using a small precision screwdriver you want to lightly tap the each conductor as to get it started.. This is to hold the ribbon while you do the next step... (Here I'm demonstrating with a 3pin connector. however the 6pin and 2pin cables use the same technique..
      • IDC punchdown1.jpg IDC punchdown2.jpg
    • Next take an even narrower screwdriver and tap the wires down the rest of the way. Being careful not to stab through the conductor!
      • IDC punchdown3.jpg Image a lil fuzzy sorry (needs to be updated..)
    • Once finished check your cable with a MultiMeter for open's and short's.
  • TIP: If you find the supplied connectors don't want to cooperate, you can use the small floppy molex plugs from a few computer power supplies instead.