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RAMPSXB (RAMPS eXpansion Board) is a shield that attaches to the AUX pins of the common 3D printer control board, RAMPS.
It adds 4 additional stepper motor driver carriers, 4 additional thermistors, 4 additional PWM-controlled MOSFETs, EXP1 and EXP2 for an LCD controller (such as the RepRapDiscount Smart Controller), additional VCC pins, 5V pins, regulated TX/RX for an HC-05 chip, and suppression capacitors on the minimum endstops, similar to the RAMPS 1.4.2.
This allows for a variety of combinations, including 6 completely separate extruders, or a mixing extruder and a few fans, or a mixture of voltages (12V on the main RAMPS, and 24V on the RAMPSXB). It was originally designed to run either the E3D Kraken or Diamond Hotend, with some spare heaters for fans, lights or support extruders.
RAMPSXB consumes the maximum endstops, as well as servo pins 2, 3, and 4 to drive the FETs.
Reverse Polarity Warning
Open Source Files
EAGLE and gerber files can be found here: https://github.com/SZiv/RAMPSXB
Where to get it?
No manufacturers for this yet. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Nothing is too hard to solder, so if you can get ahold of the board, its not very hard to assemble.
RAMPSXB-TH (RAMPSXB-Through Hole), a fork
Must also comment on choice of Protected_Mosfets available when making Sinaptec, RAMPS and RAMPSXB. Basically this is a 2.5 layer or 3 layer board, i want it all to be through hole, as I am sick of buying new (hard to source) SMD components. This will be a fork. Spacewise how would the board look, is adequate spacing available for through hole components? 1/4W resistor, 3mm LED, through hole MOSFETs...
MOSFETs: yes, fork?
3mm LEDs: yes
capacitors: TBD, how can you standardize to 0805
Response from SZiv:
There is not currently enough space to make everything through hole. The RAMPS side of the board can't really be touched without running into something on the RAMPS, but the other side can be knocked out and make the board longer. It will be more expensive a board to make, but the parts will be easier to source. I'll try and make an offical though hole version in the next few days because it sounds like an interesting challenge, or if you want you can fork the official repo and try it yourself. Any comments on the MOSFETs or do you think a through hole STP55NF06L would work?
Response from Jobo:
Protected_Mosfet: any type of N channel MOSFET will work depending on your Voltage and Current capacity/requirements.
100 uF capacitor, 4 pieces under motor driver chips, use same size as in SinapTec, had the same problem in SinapTec so make sure the size is correct.
Will through hole capacitors (8 X 14MM) fit into the circuit, is it necessary/possible to move the 4 10k resistors down in the design
Response from SZiv:
The capacitors that go under the drivers are filter capacitors that just connect VCC and Ground. Best I can figure out is that they are used to smooth out voltage spikes.
I ripped up all the traces and bumped the board out quite a bit to make everything fit, replaced all the resistors with 7mm 1/4W resistor slots and varying capacitor sizes I just pulled off of the capacitors of the same size I have lying around here, and heres what I've got:
I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to run the traces, and I am waiting on verification that the circuit does indeed work before I tackle that. Once I get around to getting it done, I'll throw it up on github, or if anyone else gets a chance to finish it off, put it up and I'll throw it on the official github.
Any other ideas?
Response from Jobo
Not yet, many thanks for your work
Currently, Repetier is the only software that supports 6 extruders, as Marlin is limited to 5. A working version of the firmware is in the Github, and also here: File:RAMPSXB Firmware.zip
This firmware uses all 6 extruders and a Reprap Full Graphics Smart controller and heated bed. Unless you just so happen to have this setup, it is highly suggested that you go the the firmware configurator [] and upload the Configuration.h file to adapt to your system needs.
If you are using your own version of Repetier, the important thing is to be sure to disable the maximum endstops (They are on by default and conflict with the stepper pins, so you need to disable them). Other than that, you'll need to go into Pins.h and set the E2-E5 stepper pins, heater, and thermistor pins by scrolling to "#ifdef RAMPS_V_1_3" and replacing whats there with this, assuming you intend to use all 4 heaters, steppers, and thermistors.
#ifdef RAMPS_V_1_3 #define ORIG_X_STEP_PIN 54 #define ORIG_X_DIR_PIN 55 #define ORIG_X_ENABLE_PIN 38 #define ORIG_X_MIN_PIN 3 #define ORIG_X_MAX_PIN 2 #define ORIG_Y_STEP_PIN 60 #define ORIG_Y_DIR_PIN 61 #define ORIG_Y_ENABLE_PIN 56 #define ORIG_Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define ORIG_Y_MAX_PIN 15 #define ORIG_Z_STEP_PIN 46 #define ORIG_Z_DIR_PIN 48 #define ORIG_Z_ENABLE_PIN 62 #define ORIG_Z_MIN_PIN 18 #define ORIG_Z_MAX_PIN 19 #define ORIG_E0_STEP_PIN 26 #define ORIG_E0_DIR_PIN 28 #define ORIG_E0_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define ORIG_E1_STEP_PIN 36 #define ORIG_E1_DIR_PIN 34 #define ORIG_E1_ENABLE_PIN 30 #define ORIG_E2_STEP_PIN 19 #define ORIG_E2_DIR_PIN 15 #define ORIG_E2_ENABLE_PIN 63 #define ORIG_E3_STEP_PIN 39 #define ORIG_E3_DIR_PIN 2 #define ORIG_E3_ENABLE_PIN 58 #define ORIG_E4_STEP_PIN 44 #define ORIG_E4_DIR_PIN 42 #define ORIG_E4_ENABLE_PIN 43 #define ORIG_E5_STEP_PIN 47 #define ORIG_E5_DIR_PIN 32 #define ORIG_E5_ENABLE_PIN 57 #define SDPOWER -1 #define SDSS 53 #define ORIG_SDCARDDETECT 49 #define LED_PIN 13 #define ORIG_FAN_PIN 9 #define ORIG_PS_ON_PIN 12 #define HEATER_0_PIN 10 #define HEATER_1_PIN 8 #define HEATER_2_PIN 9 #define HEATER_3_PIN 4 #define HEATER_4_PIN 5 #define HEATER_5_PIN 6 #define HEATER_6_PIN 45 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define TEMP_0_PIN 13 #define TEMP_1_PIN 14 #define TEMP_2_PIN 15 #define TEMP_3_PIN 11 #define TEMP_4_PIN 12 #define TEMP_5_PIN 10 #define TEMP_6_PIN 5 #define E0_PINS ORIG_E0_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E0_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E0_ENABLE_PIN, #define E1_PINS ORIG_E1_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E1_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E1_ENABLE_PIN, #define E2_PINS ORIG_E2_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E2_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E2_ENABLE_PIN, #define E3_PINS ORIG_E3_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E3_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E3_ENABLE_PIN, #define E4_PINS ORIG_E4_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E4_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E4_ENABLE_PIN, #define E5_PINS ORIG_E5_STEP_PIN,ORIG_E5_DIR_PIN,ORIG_E5_ENABLE_PIN,
The bottom of the RAMPSXB has a set of exposed traces.
These Traces are the main power traces that run to the MOSFETs. By default, these traces can easily carry 6A, and start to get warm at 9A. Since this is the sum of all the power inputs to the FETs, this is enough to run 3 40W 12V heaters at the same time (At 3A each). If you intend to run 4 heaters, your best option is to increase input voltage to 24V, and use 40W heaters (at 1.5A each), but if that isn't feasible, covering these traces with solder is another option. This increases the effective size of the trace without requiring 2 oz copper boards. Its a bit of a slow process and takes some soldering expertise, but it increases the max current (when it starts to get warm) to 12A, and can run just fine at 10A. This isn't suggested for beginners, but if you know what your doing it can give you that little bit extra power you may need.
Using a large sized and high powered (>30W) soldering iron, start at one end of the trace and slowly drag the iron along, tapping solder in behind it. I used a 50W iron with a knife tip, but anything that has a large surface area should work. If you've ever done stick welding, its a very similar process. If the edges look a bit sharp, its alright.
After covering everything in solder, run over everything again without the solder. This will smooth out some of the bumps, and give it a more even cover.
And that's it! That wasn't so hard, was it? Make sure you double check you didn't short circuit anything, or jump any solder to the nearby vias. If you need more than 12A, you can theoretically add more solder, but each individual FET can only handle a few AMPs per trace, so try to keep it less than 5A per FET. Also, feel the temperature during your first few prints to be sure the board can handle the current, because continuous current and intermediate current behave differently. If it's too hot to touch after an hour, its probably a fire hazard.
E2 Direction - 15
E2 Step - 19
E2 Enable - 63
E3 Direction - 2
E3 Step - 39
E3 Enable - 58
E4 Direction - 42
E4 Step - 44
E4 Enable - 43
E5 Direction - 32
E5 Step - 47
E5 Enable - 57
Thermistor T3 - A11
Thermistor T4 - A12
Thermistor T5 - A10
Thermistor T6 - A5
MOSFET H3 - 4
MOSFET H4 - 5
MOSFET H5 - 6
MOSFET H6 - 45
Bill of Materials
|C1,C2,C3,C4||Electrolytic Capacitors, 100uF, SMD||4||0605||For Stepper Carriers|
|C5,C6,C7,C8||Electrolytic Capacitors, 10uF, SMD||4||0405||For Thermistors|
|C9,C10,C11||Nonpolarized Capacitor, 0.47uF, SMD||3||0805||Suppression Caps for Endstops|
|R5,R6,R7,R8,R19,R20,R21,R22||Resistors, SMD, 100k Ohm||8||0805||For FETS and Pulldowns|
|R1,R2,R3,R4||Resistors, SMD, 10k Ohm||4||0805||Pullup Resistors|
|R15,R16,R17,R18||Resistors, SMD, 10 Ohm||4||0805||For FETs|
|R11,R12,R13,R14,R27||Resistors, SMD, 1.8k Ohm||5||0805||LED current limiting resistors|
|R23,R24,R25,R26||Resistors, SMD, 4.7k Ohm||4||0805||For Thermistors|
|R10||Resistor, SMD, 3.3k Ohm||1||0805||Half of a Voltage divider for the HC-05 Chip. No HC-05? You don't need this!|
|R9||Resistor, SMD, 2.2k Ohm||1||0805||Other Half of a Voltage divider for the HC-05 Chip. No HC-05? You don't need this!|
|Q1,Q2,Q3,Q4||MOSFET, PSMN7R0-30YLC, SMD||4||TO-220||Main Power MOSFETs. If using V2.1, use 3 stp55nf06l instead.|
|N/A||TO-220 Heatsinks||4||TO-220||Heatsinks for the FETs. Not required, but dirt cheap and suggested if using through hole FETs.|
|LED1,LED2,LED3,LED4,LED5||LEDs, SMD||5||0805||LEDs that tell you if the FETs are on, and one that tells you if main power is on.|
|N/A||Screw Terminals||5||3.5mm||Input/output power terminals. If you need more than 4A, solder directly to the bottom traces.|
|F1||PTC Fuses||1||N/A||30V, 9A if you cover the bottom traces with solder for extra power, 6A if you don't.|
|N/A||Male/Female Pin Headers||A lot? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯||0.1" spacing.||Buy a couple of Female double rows, male double rows, male single rows, and female single rows.|
|N/A||PCB||1||N/A||The Actual PCB. I get mine from OSHPark, but you can get it from SEEED for better prices.|