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        <title>Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
        <description>Check out this nice looking Mendel/Prusa/Sells derivative:

[url=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26354]Ecksbot on Thingiverse[/url]

[url=http://forum.eckertech.com/viewforum.php?f=4]Ecks Bot B.O.M and Build Guide[/url]

[img]http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/5b/dd/63/0b/83/ecksbot_display_medium.jpg[/img]

She looks nice and polished.  A very familiar look to her.  The parts are curvaceous and sleek.  It&#039;s neat to see the parts embossed with the site name too.

This looks like a clean, simple build and even has full-color instructions... Wow.

She has been out for about 3 months now; I saw her before, but she slipped my mind.

I might have to throw this onto my growing pile of projects.

Anyone here make one of these yet and have anything to say about it?</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158310#msg-158310</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Wed, 12 Aug 2026 10:09:51 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166697#msg-166697</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166697#msg-166697</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The bed is much easier to level If you use fully threaded mounting bolts. You can anchor the head of the bolt to the bed with a nut and then use the carriage mounting nuts to level it.<br />
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            <dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 17 Nov 2012 17:03:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166591#msg-166591</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166591#msg-166591</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Mirror bed from RepRap.me ;)<br />
<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 17 Nov 2012 00:00:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166588#msg-166588</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166588#msg-166588</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Wow. I suppose in theory it shouldn't change so with thin enough washers - like shims - you could set it up perfectly. <br />
I find with my V2 Prusa that even moving it across the room requires a recalibration]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Wired1</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 16 Nov 2012 22:34:25 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166585#msg-166585</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166585#msg-166585</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ brnrd Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
&gt; I used washers to level my Prusa2 bed front and<br />
&gt; back. You don't need springs.<br />
<br />
<br />
Those were my exact thoughts :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 16 Nov 2012 21:52:42 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166581#msg-166581</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166581#msg-166581</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I used washers to level my Prusa2 bed front and back. You don't need springs.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 16 Nov 2012 21:19:22 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166386#msg-166386</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166386#msg-166386</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yes my thoughts too, unless the bed is absolutely perfect (yeah right) you will need to adjust the front corners at least. You can get away with the back two being fixed as this can be adjusted using the lead screws but best to have them all around.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Wired1</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Nov 2012 17:19:43 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166385#msg-166385</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166385#msg-166385</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ hey, how do you level the hotbed if you are not using springs?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>nic0laz</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Nov 2012 17:10:09 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166006#msg-166006</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,166006#msg-166006</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The nuts on my z-spindles are not physically bound in the z direction and are pressure held with a spring.  Upon collision Wit the bed, the whole x axis pushes up against the z-springs -and hopefully not breaking the glass :)<br />
<br />
I dig the spring get ups, my Huxley has one.  I figured I would try the Prusa V2 / i3 style bed<br />
<br />
The z-spindle support parts look interesting.  Are they worth the effort?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 14 Nov 2012 00:19:06 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,165757#msg-165757</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,165757#msg-165757</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Looking good, idolcrasher. Unless you've have made the PCB bed that high off the top bed to fit large bulldog clips under it, you could probably lose one or two nuts between them and get even more Z height!<br />
<br />
Also, without springs under the bed, you don't have anything to save the glass/PCB if your Z axis goes awry, and descends below the endstop. The nozzle will crash into the bed, and either the glass and/or PCB will get broken, or the nuts on the Z axis will unscrew out of the bottom of the x-ends, and you'll have to re level everything. I think you have a smaller size z-rod, so you'll have to edit it, but fitting z-isolators like [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20147" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>] saves this! And doesn't transmit wobble to the X axis from the Z axis, which is a huge bonus for most people.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>droftarts</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:06:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,165731#msg-165731</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,165731#msg-165731</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I had to make sure that my bed could clear the support bars in the front and back so that I could get the full movement in the y-axis.<br />
<br />
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            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:36:21 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,165726#msg-165726</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,165726#msg-165726</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I decided to hold off on the QU-BD extruder on this build.  The "eckstruder" is a thing of beauty any way ;)<br />
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            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2012 14:20:08 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,163115#msg-163115</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,163115#msg-163115</link>
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<br />
1000 big thanks to ecker tech for sending me a Y-Carriage :)<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 27 Oct 2012 19:36:34 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,161948#msg-161948</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,161948#msg-161948</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ EcksBot Build in Progress: <br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 21 Oct 2012 13:36:00 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,161130#msg-161130</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,161130#msg-161130</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ eckertech Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
&gt; Let's see now, the Y carriage won't work with a<br />
&gt; heated plate build....? It's just a Prusa 1 with<br />
&gt; some other peoples upgrades from Thingiverse (like<br />
&gt; Brnrds X carriage idler). If the Z motor couplers<br />
&gt; come loose the X carriage can fall right off. It's<br />
&gt; top heavy. It's prone to the old RepRap Z wobble,<br />
&gt; and sadly it doesn't fix that most serious flaw in<br />
&gt; the Mendel design, wobbly in the X.<br />
&gt; What a picture you paint: It's just another crappy<br />
&gt; old RepRap with a pretty face modified with ideas<br />
&gt; pilfered from Thingiverse. <br />
&gt; <br />
&gt; ...<br />
<br />
I think you've misunderstood most of what has been posted here. As droftarts suggested, these are things that we thought would have also been good to add to your tweaks to make an even better printer. <br />
<br />
As far as the x-carriage modifications, there was no suggestion that you copied my modifications. I merely pointed out that I also moved the belts right above one of the smooth rods as you did using standard Prusa i2 parts with the addition of a belt clamp. You can call it a hack. Not as pretty as your redesign, but it works for me.<br />
<br />
On the location of the z motors, I don't think you should worry about whether people would confuse the printer with a Sells Mendel instead of a Prusa. Along with simplifying the x-axis and reducing the printed parts, the other main difference is the use of two z motors to drive the two threaded rods versus using one motor with belts and gears. Locating the motor in the top or bottom is minor. As far as which way is better, even Prusa has designed the i3 to have the motors in the bottom along with Nophead's Mendel90.<br />
<br />
On the rigidity of the Prusa frame, I think this is well accepted in the community, so there's no point in discussing further. Others, including Prusa, have moved on to address the issue. I don't think that acceleration in the firmware fixes this if you really want to go as fast as possible. Even though you can pretty much eliminate frame vibration with the right acceleration parameters, there are still issues with the extruder not being able to keep up with the x and y axes. Printing at high speeds with acceleration results in thicker threads near the ends and thinner threads in the middle as a result.<br />
<br />
Lastly, if showing a high quality print from a printer proves how good the design is, then you didn't need to tweak the Prusa i2. Prusa and many others has plenty of examples of excellent prints from their i2.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 Oct 2012 17:11:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,160218#msg-160218</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,160218#msg-160218</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ eckertech - I think most people's criticisms are about the fundamental design, not your version specifically. Regarding frame wobble, yes, it's a design flaw, but it isn't actually as much of an issue as it used to be. Why not? Because most reprap firmware now has acceleration, which damps out the wobble in most cases. And the condition that sets off the wobble is usually tight infill, where the problem doesn't matter; perimeters don't set up a resonance. Besides, there are solutions if people are REALLY concerned about it, like the cross-bracing vertices I made: [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17123" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>] This does cut a small amount out of the build area, but it's not significant.<br />
<br />
The other argument is about Z wobble, which has already been discussed above - I use z-isolators. The main reason that the z wobbles on Prusa machines is because of a mistake in the design files that, I believe, STILL hasn't be rectified: the spacing between the z leadscrew and z smooth rod is different on the X end (30mm) compared to the z motor mount (29.5mm - and you can't adjust the motor in the mount because of the design), see [<a href="https://github.com/josefprusa/PrusaMendel/issues/38" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">github.com</a>] . So the motor is always trying to move the rod eccentrically. Coupled with potentially non-straight leadscrews, and the pre-Nophead-style z-coupling (which tended to put the leadscrew off-centre with the motor shaft) and you get wobbly layers, and they may not even be consistently wobbly, so it's difficult to diagnose. However, you look to have engineered out these issues, and all credit to you.<br />
<br />
The thing people forget about with the Mendel and Prusa is the materials it's built from - printed parts and metal rod. Solutions that are properly stabilised in each axis, like the Ultimaker or Makerbot and more recently Mendel90 and upcoming Prusa 3, all use larger wood parts to constrain axes, that generally need to be accurately cut on larger laser cutters or CNC routers, and, when bought as kits, cost more. It's just not within the scope of your redesign to change or fix this; perhaps others think that the Mendel/Prusa design has run it's course, and everyone should be using the newer designs? I don't; I think it still has it's place. Some commercial companies still sell kits based on the complex Sells Mendel.<br />
<br />
I think you have done a fantastic job updating the Prusa design; it enrichens the reprap universe. You have thought about every part and sought to improve it. The X and Y axis improvements are particularly commendable. The TVRRUG.org Round 2 build (which I am involved with) has gone for a similar Y axis setup (you also get to lower the bed around 2cm as the bearing on the top rail is removed, improving Z height), but we have laser cut acrylic lower beds. I'm not entirely convinced by a printed y-carriage (is it ABS?), but I'm not going to dispute it with you if you say it is successful printing ABS.<br />
<br />
The only criticism (and it is only a small gripe so please don't take offence) I can think to level at you has nothing to do with the design itself; it's your choice of software for your design - Solidworks - and that this makes it harder for people to adapt your design to their needs - for example, if their printer was was not accurate printing holes and hex nut traps, the tolerances might need to be a bit looser, or perhaps need to adapt the extruder for a different hot end. Adrian Bowyer has talked about closed source development leading to dead ends, and part of that is using closed source tools. However, you have released stl files, and the solidworks source files, for which I once again applaud you. And I appreciate designing parts in a professional package is so much easier than the weaker open-source options - I do it myself! It does mean, however, that people are less likely to submit their changes/improvements back to you, too!<br />
<br />
Overall, very well done, I give you 9 out of 10!<br />
<br />
@idolcrasher: lift works fine for me too, but can sometimes lead to a bit more blobbing, so unless I'm printing lots of small things that could get knocked off, I don't use it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>droftarts</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 12 Oct 2012 07:21:48 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,160158#msg-160158</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,160158#msg-160158</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Eckertech on the scene ;)  COOL<br />
<br />
I saw some folks here saying that they don't use the "lift" feature in Slic3r... RUN! (don't walk); change your settings and start using the Lift feature!<br />
<br />
If your machine can't handle the feature... BUILD A NEW MACHINE<br />
<br />
Just one man's humble opinion ;)  <br />
<br />
Do what you like; for me, lift is extremely useful B)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 11 Oct 2012 23:55:44 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,160106#msg-160106</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,160106#msg-160106</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Let's see now, the Y carriage won't work with a heated plate build....? It's just a Prusa 1 with some other peoples upgrades from Thingiverse (like Brnrds X carriage idler). If the Z motor couplers come loose the X carriage can fall right off. It's top heavy. It's prone to the old RepRap Z wobble, and sadly it doesn't fix that most serious flaw in the Mendel design, wobbly in the X.<br />
What a picture you paint: It's just another crappy old RepRap with a pretty face modified with ideas pilfered from Thingiverse. <br />
<br />
Not sure just how I should respond to all these complaints and address the allegations so I guess I should just start at the top and work my way down. <br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Crispy1</strong><br />
Besides the printed bed plate (which I experimented with and abandoned as unworkable with a HPB ),</div></blockquote>
<br />
Sorry to hear your experiment failed, but the failure was one of your making not the ecksbot design. There are videos on the Internet showing ecksbots printing ABS on heated beds, it works just fine. Had you taken the time to ask for help on our forum or emailed directly before blindly dismissing it as unusable I would have gladly showed you where you were going wrong. <br />
<br />
"X Idler mount is the same as Brnrds": Brnrd it's apples and oranges. Just because two things look similar at a glance doesn't mean they are the same. Yes our belt track ended up looking the same as yours from a downward view but you missed the whole point of the modification or what it even is.<br />
<br />
The reason for the modification was to eliminate the pulley deflection caused by the stub shaft levering against the printed mounting area of the idler block and distorting the plastic when the belt is tightened. This is the reason for the belt tracking issues noted on this forum from time to time, the tighter the belt the worse it gets.<br />
<br />
Our modification: We replaced the stub shaft with a straight axle which holds the bearing straight and true no matter how tight the belt. In order to accomplish this we had to create a second mounting surface to attach the opposite end of the shaft. In order to do that we had to turn the bearing inward on the idler bracket and that's why the resemblance. We also replaced the threaded rod and washers with a 4mm bolt and printed flanged hubs to eliminate the problem of the washers rubbing on the dust seals of the bearing.        <br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>brnrd</strong><br />
I think that one of the weaknesses of the Prusa i2 which still remains in the Ecksbot is having the z motors on the top instead of on the bottom. This makes the z threaded rods susceptible to downward movement if the coupling to the motor becomes loose.</div></blockquote>
<br />
Actually the whole of any RepRap machine is susceptible to wobbling around and falling apart if the components are not properly installed in the first place. Blaming the design of the machine for poor assembly techniques is really not fair to the designer. From our own personal experience: We have been running the original ecksbot daily for over four months now and the clamps haven't moved a tick.<br />
<br />
While on the topic, I have a question about Z motors placement. Comparing the Prusa to the Sells Mendel, what is the main noticeable difference between the two?...... (apart from the Y carriage drive on the ecksbot which we have already derived from the Sells Mendel). In my eyes it is motors on the top vs motor on the bottom. So if we move the ecksbot motors to the bottom does it remain to be seen as a Prusa derivative with a little Sells mixed in, or does it now become a first generation Sells derivative with a little Prusa mixed in? People have done such a “brilliant” job of slandering the Sells name to a point where most people consider it to be an old failed overcomplicated design of the past, that should stay in the past. Would the machine be black balled right off the bat as a direct derivative of Sells?<br />
<br />
On wobble caused by the rods themselves<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Wired1</strong><br />
On the scond machine I built I bought some M8 stainless threaded rod which is machined to a higher standard than el cheapo zinc plated rod and it is perfectly straight to the naked eye.</div></blockquote>
<br />
While I agree that higher quality threaded rod generally has a more consistent thread pattern.  In either case running the rods through a dye will provide a dramatic improvement.  <br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>ttsalo</strong><br />
Sadly it doesn't fix the most serious flaw, which is that the frame is stiff exactly in the direction it doesn't need to be (Y) and flexible in the direction it needs to be stiff (X)...</div></blockquote>
<br />
If you are having problems assembling an ecksbot so that it doesn't wobble.  You should have registered on our forum or sent an email and asked for help.  Since the advent of acceleration in the firmware frame wobble is a bit of a non issue.  Even a modest amount of acceleration should allow even a wobbly machine like yours to print at reasonable speeds without noticeable effect on the printed object.<br />
<br />
Other ecksbot owners have found that there prints come out A-OK<br />
<br />
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<br />
When it comes to the point where you have to use a magnifying glass to detect Z wobble I think that's pretty good for a hobby printer.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>eckertech</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 11 Oct 2012 15:32:54 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159477#msg-159477</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159477#msg-159477</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sadly it doesn't fix the most serious flaw, which is that the frame is stiff exactly in the direction it doesn't need to be (Y) and flexible in the direction it needs to be stiff (X)...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ttsalo</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 09 Oct 2012 06:09:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159398#msg-159398</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159398#msg-159398</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Gulf</strong><br />
The belt is centered above the x axis rod instead of levered off the back like most of the other designs.</div></blockquote>
<br />
I did the same with the standard Pruse i2 parts with  new design x carriage belt clamps: [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21242" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 08 Oct 2012 21:56:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159390#msg-159390</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159390#msg-159390</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This is by far the best designed Mendel/Prusa out there, IMHO.<br />
I updated my prusa v1 X axis and upper motor mounts to the ecksbot parts, If i were ambitious I would print an entire machine out because everything is just better. The belt is centered above the x axis rod instead of levered off the back like most of the other designs.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Gulf</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 08 Oct 2012 20:22:32 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159383#msg-159383</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159383#msg-159383</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ On the scond machine I built I bought some M8 stainless threaded rod which is machined to a higher standard than el cheapo zinc plated rod and it is perfectly straight to the naked eye. I'm also using Z-stabilisers at the bottom, which I know some frown on, but the combination gives virtually no Z-wobble. I'm going to use Acme lead screws on the Mendel Max I'm building and these will be free-floating so I'll see how that goes, hopefully won't need any additional end support.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Wired1</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 08 Oct 2012 19:23:02 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159147#msg-159147</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159147#msg-159147</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yes. I actually copied droftart's method: [<a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,117590,124702#msg-124702" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">forums.reprap.org</a>]. I was going to use two sets of motor mounts and clamps until I saw his photos in that thread.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 07 Oct 2012 08:28:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159138#msg-159138</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159138#msg-159138</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Brnrd used the same method I did to put the motors at the bottom. However, I still suffered from Z wobble, using M8 rod as the leadscrew. I fixed this by adding z-isolators like [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20147" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>] though I designed my own. This decouples the wobble of the z leadscrew from the X axis, and I recommend them to everyone. Using smaller M5 leadscrew is also a good idea, especially as the coupler can just be PVC tubing as the leadscrew is the same diameter as the motor shaft, when the motors are at the bottom - may slip off when at the motors are at the top.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>droftarts</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 07 Oct 2012 06:52:37 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159002#msg-159002</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,159002#msg-159002</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ True, can't think why they did it that way in the first place. I like the way you mounted your motors, is it the same part just upside-down? and what did you do at the top? Ok watched your video now, might try this.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Wired1</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 06 Oct 2012 05:24:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158975#msg-158975</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158975#msg-158975</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Mounting the z motors in the bottom is just as simple and easy as mounting it on top.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Oct 2012 23:31:27 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158972#msg-158972</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158972#msg-158972</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The things that make the Mendel Prusa and variants good is that they are simple and use cheap parts to keep the cost down, and this variation is the same basic design with a couple of nice mods but still the simple and cheap design. When you can afford a better machine you buy a one of the more expensive varieties which have sturdier frames, bottom mounted motors and use high quality 10mm rod and lead screws. As an entry level machine the Prusa works and if you buy a kit it will go together and print quickly and easily. If you are able to, build it your self as you will learn how it all works and be more able to calibrate if not, buy one ready made and enjoy it anyway.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Wired1</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Oct 2012 22:32:04 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158630#msg-158630</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158630#msg-158630</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I ended up gluing my coupler/motor/rods together on my Huxley Pro.<br />
<br />
Evers since then, I have wanted a Huxley pro with bottom mounted motors]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Idolcrasher</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 04 Oct 2012 09:16:10 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158628#msg-158628</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158628#msg-158628</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The z coupler need to reduce wobble by allowing some flex. The Prusa i2 and the eksbot use Nophead's z coupler design which requires a somewhat flexible plastic tubing between the motor shaft and coupler. Others may have succeded in preventing the threaded rod from sliding off but I wanted to avoid dealing with that. I also didn't like the printer to be top heavy.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 04 Oct 2012 09:13:07 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158624#msg-158624</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158624#msg-158624</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ These are also good ideas which I did not know about, thanks for bringing them to my attention. <br />
<br />
One last thing you did not respond to: why is it hard to couple the threaded rod to the motor without comeing loose?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>alagi</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 04 Oct 2012 08:28:16 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158622#msg-158622</guid>
            <title>Re: Who Has Built an Ecksbot? ;) It looks CLEAN</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,158310,158622#msg-158622</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Getting rid of z wobble due to bent threaded rods is actually not that complicated. There just need to be freedom for the threaded rods to move in the x-y direction. Currently, my Prusa i2 does this automatically because the nut traps in the x ends for the z nuts are oversized. This, of course, results in z backlash but it's not a big deal since I don't use the z lift feature in slic3r so that my z axis only moves upwards while printing. The backlash probably affects the 1st layer depending on how the z axis homing is performed by the firmware but I haven't looked closely at the fw yet. To get rid of backlash, you can use <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20147" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">DaleDunn's Z screw isolator</a>.<br />
<br />
Also, the <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/7850282878/in/photostream" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Prusa i3</a> already uses M5 threaded rods with the motors in the bottom so there might not be buckling a problem.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>brnrd</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 04 Oct 2012 08:21:22 -0400</pubDate>
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