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        <title>1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
        <description>I&#039;ve only used 3.00 mm filament.  However, there seem to be a lot of good reason to use 1.75 mm filament:

Then, would there be any reasons to use 3.00 mm filament (or not to 1.75 mm filament)?

I think I read it somewhere that 1.75 mm are a bit more expensive (because it&#039;s easier/faster for manufacturers to extrude 3.00 mm filaments), but all the suppliers I have seen either had the same price for both or had a very little difference in price between them.

Another possible disadvantage with 1.75 mm I can think of is that inconsistency in filament thickness/diameter may have bigger impact on it. For example, if the diameter varies by +/- 0.5 mm (in the same spool), it&#039;s difference of 28.6% vs 16.7% variation.  Well, obviously my assumption is that this variation in diameter is nominal and constant regardless of the filament size, rather than being proportional to the size of the filament.

Also, to move the same volume of filament, the extruder will have to push more (longer) filament with 1.75 mm, and faster (to extruder the same amount at the same rate).  This may cause the extruder motor to work harder and run hotter?  Or, will that be compensated by the fact the motor now needs to use smaller force (therefore we may be able to reduce the driver current)?


I&#039;m pretty sure this topic of filament size has been discussed before, probably many times.  So, I apologize for asking it again - it may have been my poor search skill, but I couldn&#039;t find any thread about it... or, maybe I didn&#039;t search hard enough :p   If it&#039;s more convenient for you, you can just give an URL for those previous discussions (as long as they still relevant and not too out of date).

Thanks!</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248179#msg-248179</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sun, 08 Mar 2026 23:10:03 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,269704#msg-269704</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,269704#msg-269704</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yikes! Maybe I've been spoiled. All my spooled filament has come from Protoparadigm, and it's been great. The stuff I spooled myself from coils was another story.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dale Dunn</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 20 Nov 2013 11:23:41 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,269514#msg-269514</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,269514#msg-269514</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Dale,<br />
<br />
I've got goin on whatever the producer gave me on the spool.  Nothing more and nothing less.  Is filament tangled on the spool?  Sometimes.  You betcha.  The more I can reduce my margin of error the better.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dorian</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 19 Nov 2013 21:51:25 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268827#msg-268827</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268827#msg-268827</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>destroyer2012</strong><br />
...<br />
Just for the record that is a terrible reason to do anything. Companies don't actively try to make their machine work better.<br />
...</div></blockquote>
<br />
They do when they're competing. Still, it's not a good reason to make a choice when you can try to understand the design criteria yourself.<br />
<br />
Linear filament required changes with the square of the diameter. All your doubling examples should have factors of 4.<br />
<br />
Spool movement and tangles on the spool are a non-issue for my spool. I don't know what you've got going on. I don't think mine is remarkable in any way.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dale Dunn</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 18 Nov 2013 12:51:56 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268740#msg-268740</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268740#msg-268740</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ From what I've read region plays a part.  In some places 3mm filament is cheaper than 1.75mm filament.  I think this is a combination of the fact that 3mm is easier to produce and in some areas it is more readily available so the supply side is pushing down the cost.  I'm not seeing a large difference in price here in the United States.  I've been using 1.75mm at work but I'm building my machine at home to use 3mm.  <br />
<br />
Here's my reasoning; if the filament is roughly twice the diameter the machine will have to pull half the length of filament for any given print.  I'm cutting down the spool movement by half.  I'm cutting the changes of the filament jamming on the spool in half.  Less mechanical movement for the same job is always better.<br />
<br />
From what I understand the only cost is that 3mm is stiffer.  I imagine if I were printing in a detached building in a cold environment that would be a factor but I think printing in those conditions would be less than ideal in the first place.<br />
<br />
A lot of commercial machines are using direct drive extruders that can only handle 1.75mm.  Cost is a factor for the company producing the machine.  Think about what goes into a wades extruder; 3 bearings, two gears, and a drive pulley (hobbed bolt).  What goes into a direct drive extruder; one bearing and a drive pulley.  When you produce a million units those bearings and gears add up.<br />
<br />
If the trend continues eventually 1.75mm filament will win the day.  Even if it isn't the practical choice commercial demand will increase the supply of 1.75mm and 3mm will be more expensive as suppliers re-tool.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dorian</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 18 Nov 2013 09:34:05 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268622#msg-268622</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268622#msg-268622</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>N314</strong><br />
Professional FDM machines (Stratsys/3D systems) use 1.75, so i figure they probably have pretty good reasons for doing so...</div></blockquote>
<br />
Just for the record that is a terrible reason to do anything. Companies don't actively try to make their machine work better. Their only motivation is to design something so they can make more money. Maybe in some cases a better machine equals making more money, but usually not.<br />
<br />
I would guess the reason they use 1.75 is so you have to buy their filament, since if they used 3mm then you could use plastic welding rod (which is 3mm in diameter and much, much cheaper than the stock stratasys filament). Of course I am talking about a time before reprap 1.75 mm filament existed.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>destroyer2012</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 18 Nov 2013 02:52:51 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268565#msg-268565</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268565#msg-268565</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I personally use 1.75. I like the look of 3mm better, but thats no good reason at all. Im about to build another printer and im going to use 1.75.<br />
<br />
Professional FDM machines (Stratsys/3D systems) use 1.75, so i figure they probably have pretty good reasons for doing so...<br />
<br />
<br />
-Nick]]></description>
            <dc:creator>N314</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 17 Nov 2013 21:47:51 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268529#msg-268529</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,268529#msg-268529</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yeah i have to change lining on the budaschnozzle from 3 to 1.75 or what ever I'm using, and should be possible to do on most hot ends]]></description>
            <dc:creator>nechaus</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 17 Nov 2013 19:12:05 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267784#msg-267784</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267784#msg-267784</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ How can you do both filament diameters in the same hot end? if I put even a slightly smaller diameter (2.75 vs 3) filament in my extruder the molten plastic will flow back up the relatively empty channel and create a block. It extrudes great for the first minute then stops completely. Whereas applying 3mm to a 1.75mm hot end would create way too much back pressure...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>destroyer2012</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 15 Nov 2013 21:30:50 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267228#msg-267228</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267228#msg-267228</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The extruder i developed can do both filament types, 1.75 and 3mm, no problem at all, i call my extruder "Bulldog XL" :D<br />
<br />
[attachment 21200 bulldog_open.JPG]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Reprapdiscount</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Nov 2013 23:37:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267186#msg-267186</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267186#msg-267186</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ if the filament was really too brittle you could heat it at the point where it unspools.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>aduy</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Nov 2013 19:11:21 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267185#msg-267185</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267185#msg-267185</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ All of my PLA filament is hard, i need to bend so many times to break it,<br />
I once had some glow in the dark PLA, it was totally different, It would simply break easy, for example,<br />
 It would break by bending it once to far in my hand, <br />
It would break from the extruder pressure bolt, also from the bend in the bowden tube.<br />
Dropped the spool and ended up with an unusable spool as it had breaks through out the whole thing <br />
<br />
It was very old and never kept in air tight container, I had it when i first got my printer, went out and stocked up on plastic but could not use it, layed around for 6 maybe 8 months.<br />
When the stuff was brand new, it was fine, but never used much, it was ultra low temp, <br />
All my PLA i get now gets is pretty good, i never have it long enough to go bad, i can use a spool easily within a week.<br />
Never had this kind of issue with abs or nylon]]></description>
            <dc:creator>nechaus</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Nov 2013 18:59:32 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267154#msg-267154</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,267154#msg-267154</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ With some filaments I had the problem that 3mm breaks. Does anybody has the same experiences?<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anonymous User</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Nov 2013 17:31:50 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266815#msg-266815</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266815#msg-266815</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I was thinking, I use 3.00mm on a bowden setup, i think maybe the thicker stuff is a bit easier with bowden, i could be wrong tho]]></description>
            <dc:creator>nechaus</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Nov 2013 05:33:10 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266681#msg-266681</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266681#msg-266681</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I found 3.0mm is better with soft filaments]]></description>
            <dc:creator>nechaus</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 13 Nov 2013 21:04:02 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266009#msg-266009</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266009#msg-266009</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ the 3mm probably wont like the big wheel though it might need an even larger one.<br />
<br />
btw the wheel would only be for a bowden setup.<br />
<br />
also i have zero interest in printing pla, I live in arizona, pla melts in my car haha, its really useless. abs polycarb and nylon are all fairly flexible, the polycarb isnt as flexible but it doesnt mind being bent at all.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>aduy</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Nov 2013 16:37:19 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266002#msg-266002</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,266002#msg-266002</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Im still using 3mm but one thing that will surely be better is the ease 1.75 will come off the reel.<br />
When im getting to the end of a 3mm reel the printer is practically climbing up the filament.<br />
Perhaps my workshop is a bit too cold.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Vince</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Nov 2013 16:07:52 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,265707#msg-265707</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,265707#msg-265707</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ im working on a new extruder, its going to use a huge hobbed set of washers, the filament will be pushed onto the hobbed surface by a set of small bearings which will allow a large contact area, about 90 degrees around the hobbed surface, instead of just one small point. now the reason this will be good is because, it will have more surface area to grab onto the plastic, but it wont deform the plastic because it doesnt need to be pushed into the teeth as hard. in turn this will allow the filament to remain unsmushed through the bowden tube and hot end which will eliminate jams and other issues.<div id="div_082caf3185635d174b953a8ec27dbc6c"
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<br />
<br />
why? because im tired of having to fiddle with the extruder during prints that can take upwards of 24 hours, and because then they can take less time because i can push more plastic through.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>aduy</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Nov 2013 04:14:31 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,265689#msg-265689</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,265689#msg-265689</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ i've never had much luck with the wades extruder and the 8mm hobbed bolt, it is really too small for both sizes ,just worse for 1.75mm,  i use all 1.75mm with a machined hobb directly driven from a nema17 stepper with a fixed distance idler bearing and it simply doesn't stop, the key to good reliability with it is to have a idler bearing of a similar size to the hobbed area driving it, the only way to stop my extruders now is to turn off the hotend or press the nozzle into the bed ,and even then it'll skips steps for hours before comming close to stripping filament]]></description>
            <dc:creator>thejollygrimreaper</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Nov 2013 03:29:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,265672#msg-265672</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,265672#msg-265672</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ so ive been thinking about this a lot recently and come to the conclusion that 3mm is better for high volume extrusion because you have a lot more grip over the filament, and obviously it is bigger so you get more.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>aduy</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Nov 2013 02:18:41 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250303#msg-250303</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250303#msg-250303</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Interesting, so something like a small grindstone? I have some of those for the Dremel, but I don't know if they are hard enough to cut a bearing race. They are rather cheap, maybe I need to get harder ones.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Yvan</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Sep 2013 23:02:12 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250264#msg-250264</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250264#msg-250264</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Instead of a cutoff wheel you can use a small-diameter grinder attachment. This way you don't apply as much force in the "spin" direction of the bearing.I used one that was only slightly bigger than the groove I wanted to make. Just tilt it a bit and you still get the bearing to turn but it turns rather slowly.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>destroyer2012</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Sep 2013 18:33:22 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250200#msg-250200</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250200#msg-250200</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You guys are correct, the offset angle adds a nice curve which matches the profile of the filament. I still use some source of friction though, because the bearing still spins way faster than it should. The start 'rattling' when they spin too fast!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Yvan</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Sep 2013 16:00:42 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250161#msg-250161</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,250161#msg-250161</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks for the idea lister.  I just did it this over the weekend and it turned out quite well.  I used bigger cutoff wheel so much of it needed to be done with the wheel aligned with the bearing.  I used some friction to get it to spin slower than the cutoff wheel, but I also tilted the wheel some to round things a bit more and make a nice sine wave curve.  I think it turned out very well and when combined with a shallower concavity in the hobbed bolt seems to work well for the 1.75mm filament.  I haven't tried it yet to actually extrude because I don't have the hot end wired yet, but it seems to have excellent grip. <br />
<br />
Thanks for the tips.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cobrageek</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Sep 2013 14:56:04 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,249452#msg-249452</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,249452#msg-249452</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ cobrageek Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
&gt; Thanks Yvan.  I'll try the cut-off wheel option<br />
&gt; and probably add some resistance to the bearing to<br />
&gt; keep it from "just spinning".<br />
&gt; <br />
&gt; Mihai, I've thought about the MK7, but I wasn't<br />
&gt; sure how it would work in the current extruder. <br />
&gt; Isn't it larger than the bolt?  How do you put<br />
&gt; this in without changing the layout in the<br />
&gt; extruder?<br />
<br />
<br />
Instead of adding friction you can offset the cutting disk such that its axis is tilted about 20 to 30 degrees from that of the bearing. This will also give the groove a rounded profile which will better match the filament.<br />
<br />
Even if the bearing rotates freely the wheel will still cut into it because the two are not rotating in exactly the same direction.<br />
<br />
I attached a drawing to clarify what I mean:<br />
[attachment 19213 x.jpg]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>lister6520</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 28 Sep 2013 05:17:01 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248609#msg-248609</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248609#msg-248609</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Bowden tubes definitely add backlash, so that is a negative... but it is possible to make them work just as well if you put effort into it and spend some time trying to understand it. As an example, the Ultimaker is capable of some fantastic prints and it uses a bowden setup. Bowden is just more natural for some printers.<br />
<br />
Yvan Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
&gt; So far I've used variations of letting the bearing<br />
&gt; spin on an 8 mm shaft while I cut a grove with a<br />
&gt; Dremel tool and abrasive/cutoff disk.<br />
&gt; <br />
&gt; Last time, I used a small nylon brush as a<br />
&gt; friction brake to control the spin of the bearing.<br />
&gt; It can rotate way to fast as it tried to follow<br />
&gt; the high rpm cutoff disk.<br />
&gt; <br />
&gt; iquiz, I'm not a big fan of bowden setups because<br />
&gt; they add another layer of play or slack in the<br />
&gt; chain. I should try one though, just to see how it<br />
&gt; all works out.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>iquizzle</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:04:23 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248598#msg-248598</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248598#msg-248598</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks Yvan.  I'll try the cut-off wheel option and probably add some resistance to the bearing to keep it from "just spinning".<br />
<br />
Mihai, I've thought about the MK7, but I wasn't sure how it would work in the current extruder.  Isn't it larger than the bolt?  How do you put this in without changing the layout in the extruder?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cobrageek</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 25 Sep 2013 14:22:26 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248422#msg-248422</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248422#msg-248422</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I don't know the equations required myself, but I'm sure there are some people on the forums who have or have the ability to calculate which diameter of filament is actually more efficient at extruding. By that I mean which requires the least force to push through a standard sized(.35mm) nozzle at a certain rate while heated to a certain temperature. My thought is that 1.75mm filament would require less force, but you have to account for the fact that to extrude the same volume of plastic as 3mm filament in the same amount of time, it would have to be fed much faster, which would also result in more resistance while trying to squeeze through that nozzle. It may very well be that both sizes of filament take about the same amount of force to extrude. I can't know for sure unless I do some more research. haha<br />
<br />
What I know for sure is that using 1.75mm filament does allow your extruder to more more precisely control the filament. I'm going with 1.75mm plastic for my first personal printer because other than physical differences, I think that it's getting harder to find wide varieties of 3mm filament in more stores. It's also going to be my first experience using 1.75, might as well jump into new territory and experiment.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Coin3</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 25 Sep 2013 01:24:12 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248419#msg-248419</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248419#msg-248419</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ cobrageek Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
&gt; I've found a few reports that indicated that they<br />
&gt; have made bolts intended for 3mm and they worked<br />
&gt; fine for 1.75mm.<br />
<br />
MK7 is made that way ... and it works very well.<br />
<br />
regards,<br />
mihai]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mihai</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 25 Sep 2013 00:47:05 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248407#msg-248407</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248407#msg-248407</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So far I've used variations of letting the bearing spin on an 8 mm shaft while I cut a grove with a Dremel tool and abrasive/cutoff disk.<br />
<br />
Last time, I used a small nylon brush as a friction brake to control the spin of the bearing. It can rotate way to fast as it tried to follow the high rpm cutoff disk.<br />
<br />
iquiz, I'm not a big fan of bowden setups because they add another layer of play or slack in the chain. I should try one though, just to see how it all works out.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Yvan</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 24 Sep 2013 22:03:54 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248404#msg-248404</guid>
            <title>Re: 1.75 mm vs 3.00 mm</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,248179,248404#msg-248404</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've used both, but I prefer 1.75mm. The main reason is that it's more flexible and resists movement less. It's usually better for a bowden setup because of this. Also, I like that it moves through the hotend faster due to lower volume. This could reduce the melt zone, but that might be negated in a jhead because you have more insulation.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>iquizzle</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 24 Sep 2013 21:37:18 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
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