Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems

Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems I've recently built (my first RepRap) a Prusa i3 from Maker Farm and have gotten it calibrated and am getting beautiful prints. I'm now experimenting with electroplating these parts and am having issues. I'm plating with Nickel and prior to plating the ABS print is cleaned and then tinned. I'm getting a bright and shiny surface but the adhesion is really bad. The layers of Nickel are literally falling off. Has anyone experimented with plating ABS and figure out a way to get better adhesion? https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,304620#msg-304620 Mon, 13 Jul 2026 12:09:29 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,615362#msg-615362 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,615362#msg-615362

Quote
CdnReprap
I've done electoplating in the past on plastic and sla parts and I found the Caswell kits work VERY well, and the book that comes with them covers everything in regards to electroplating from a DIY stand point. Not to mention safer chemicals to use indoors with exception of the Acid copper because you are using battery acid.

If you have CAD software that will give you the surface area of your model it will help calculate your current.

What works for me

step 1- copper sheilding spray in a spray can (from MG chem) or silver spray from Caswell that is sprayed in Prevail sprayer. Let it dry at least 24hrs.

Step 2-Electroplate Flash copper layer: "flash"copper gives a very fine, "sticky" layer (I skip the SP degreaser because the surface spray applied in step 1 is clean)

Step 3- Electroplate Acid Copper layer: Acid copper is the "high build" layer that you can build up real thick and sand/smooth imperfections and polish. How much depends on how smooth your part started off before step 1.

Step 4- Electroplate with Nickel or copy chrome(I like copy chrome myself because you don't need heaters)

Lol 3 pages of tangential information. Thanks for posting correct info with experience, Cdnreprap. It was obvious the problem here is that he skipped the copper step. Also the fact the part wasn't finished by sanding or smoothing is obviously going to leave a very poor surface finish. That's the problem with the internet these days. Overabundance of information and very little actual experience.

Anyway,

How different is the look of nickel vs copy chrome?

Do you use the brush acid copper kit or something else?]]> MetaFortis General Mon, 25 Jan 2016 08:58:58 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,548046#msg-548046 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,548046#msg-548046
If you have CAD software that will give you the surface area of your model it will help calculate your current.

What works for me

step 1- copper sheilding spray in a spray can (from MG chem) or silver spray from Caswell that is sprayed in Prevail sprayer. Let it dry at least 24hrs.

Step 2-Electroplate Flash copper layer: "flash"copper gives a very fine, "sticky" layer (I skip the SP degreaser because the surface spray applied in step 1 is clean)

Step 3- Electroplate Acid Copper layer: Acid copper is the "high build" layer that you can build up real thick and sand/smooth imperfections and polish. How much depends on how smooth your part started off before step 1.

Step 4- Electroplate with Nickel or copy chrome(I like copy chrome myself because you don't need heaters)]]> CdnReprap General Thu, 20 Aug 2015 17:35:36 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,547239#msg-547239 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,547239#msg-547239
Got my graphite powder and mixed it with some acetone (easy enough but boy was it messy just opening the graphite. I painted a white ABS part with the solution and applied several coats. It dried very quickly like less than a minute.

I then wiped the part to get off any loose graphite (impossible as it's now basically a pencil). This got me concerned since it's so easy to remove a layer of graphite off the abs, I wiped and wiped it and even sanded a small portion but it was still black from graphite so I moved on to plating.

Now you always start with copper so that is what I did, first though I measure the piece with my ohm meter to see if it was conductive and it was but very high resistance (sorry I did not write it down but it was like 200k or more).

I wrapped a nickel plated solid wire around the part (it make contact with the graphite in at least 4 places). I tried the brush method first (how I use to plate coins and small parts) but it was not working well so I used the dip method (put the part and electrode side by side in the chemical) the electrode was giving off bubbles indicating it was working at least a little but when I pulled the part out there was only a very faint hint of copper on part while the wire that was wrapped around it was pretty well coated. Even the copper that was on the part was very uneven and seemed to turn black if I wiped it.

So I tried nickel and while more of the part turned nickel color it too was easy to wipe the color away, in some spots it was more durable (right next to where the wire made contact with the part) and so I hit it with some very fine sand paper (12,000 grit) and it never got shiny but did stay a dull gray silver colored but in a very uneven way (looked a lot like an antique tarnished part).

[attachment 60252 Test-Plate.jpg]]]> tmorris9 General Tue, 18 Aug 2015 23:20:55 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,546483#msg-546483 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,546483#msg-546483 tmorris9 General Mon, 17 Aug 2015 03:14:14 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,546439#msg-546439 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,546439#msg-546439 RobH2 General Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:55:14 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,546433#msg-546433 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,546433#msg-546433 Electroplating ABS 3D prints using graphite and acetone
With a little care, this looks like a great way to start the process.]]> Blazoner General Sun, 16 Aug 2015 20:23:42 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,488863#msg-488863 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,488863#msg-488863 RobH2 General Thu, 26 Mar 2015 11:18:33 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,488681#msg-488681 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,488681#msg-488681
Purchase a few things
home brew/wine making shop and purchase sodium bisulfite as neutraliser.
[www.goldn.co.uk] & [www.goldn.co.uk] from UK.
The two links point to white palladium plating solution & tin plating solution
extra fine pumice powder
copper pipe
plastic tubs
caswell triple and hard chrome plating kits

Couple of methods to etch the surface.
physical or chemical

Physical
Either Sand paper if parts large enough
or use suspension of 12% (w/w) of pumice fine powder in water.. Pumice in Water using one small hobby air brush kit would suffice.

or chemical etch. Get caswell triple and hard chrome kits. grab the chromic/sulfuric acid.

In a plastic tube, use chromic/sulfuric acid solution without connecting batteries and leave 6 minutes @60'C (or 12 - 15 mins. @ RT) to etch surface.
Then rinse in tap water,
Rinse in distilled water,
Dry in warm air (hair dryer)

Bath part in sodium bisulfite as neutraliser.

Then rinse in tap water,
Rinse in distilled water,
Dry in warm air (hair dryer)

(Might try a pen at this stage) or brush plate/activate with mix/combination of [www.goldn.co.uk] & [www.goldn.co.uk] from UK.
white palladium plating solution & tin plating solution

Then rinse in tap water,
Rinse in distilled water,
Dry in warm air (hair dryer)

Push it all through the nickel,copper, nickel, hard chrome baths following rest of directions from caswell and all should be dandy.]]> printa3d General Thu, 26 Mar 2015 00:39:07 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,364443#msg-364443 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,364443#msg-364443
MIT produces new metamaterial that acts as a lens for radio waves
[www.gizmag.com]
[newsoffice.mit.edu]
[www.thingiverse.com]]]> A2 General Tue, 03 Jun 2014 08:29:27 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,363318#msg-363318 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,363318#msg-363318
I've had adhesion issues with my plating. I think I'll try one thing he said. He mentioned spraying with auto primer. I think I'll try that and then use my copper conductive paint and see what happens.]]> RobH2 General Sun, 01 Jun 2014 00:01:44 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,363316#msg-363316 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,363316#msg-363316 this video of Adam Savage talking about his T-800 and how he electroplated it. He starts talking about it around 2:50.]]> SheldonE General Sat, 31 May 2014 23:49:08 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362529#msg-362529 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362529#msg-362529 chris33 General Fri, 30 May 2014 08:55:10 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362348#msg-362348 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362348#msg-362348 RobH2 General Thu, 29 May 2014 21:16:15 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362326#msg-362326 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362326#msg-362326 chris33 General Thu, 29 May 2014 18:45:21 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362245#msg-362245 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362245#msg-362245
[www.caswellplating.com]]]> RobH2 General Thu, 29 May 2014 15:21:17 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362240#msg-362240 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362240#msg-362240 chris33 General Thu, 29 May 2014 15:14:35 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362226#msg-362226 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362226#msg-362226
I need to look more at brush plating. Do you have good results with it?]]> RobH2 General Thu, 29 May 2014 14:34:08 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362215#msg-362215 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,362215#msg-362215 chris33 General Thu, 29 May 2014 14:06:25 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,361633#msg-361633 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,361633#msg-361633
Good to see that, thanks again. I'll report back when I get rolling again.]]> RobH2 General Wed, 28 May 2014 11:26:43 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,361322#msg-361322 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,361322#msg-361322
Metal Plating 3d Printed Plastics by RePliForm Inc.:
[www.youtube.com]]]> A2 General Tue, 27 May 2014 20:31:12 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,339267#msg-339267 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,339267#msg-339267 RobH2 General Sun, 13 Apr 2014 12:29:17 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,339155#msg-339155 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,339155#msg-339155

Quote

[plating 3d printed parts exhibited a] 10 fold increase in stiffness.

The coated models closely replicate traditional carbon fibre parts.

[www.3ddc.eu]

I designed zinc die cast parts that were chrome plated.
I melted out the zinc to measure the thickness of the plating, and explored the strength of the hollow metal shell.
The thin metal shell was very strong and ridged.]]> A2 General Sun, 13 Apr 2014 07:11:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326744#msg-326744 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326744#msg-326744
Here's the mesh table I've been using for reference: Mesh Table

I'll read your reference info and as I mentioned, I did order some powder. We'll see what it does. It will be interesting and I'll certainly report back. It will be few weeks before I can tackle it as I've gotten interrupted with a paying project.

Great info. Let me go read it and it's much appreciated. Once I solve this I think we'll have a good thread for anyone who wants to plate their ABS printed parts.

Edit: I'm wondering if a rock tumbler and stainless steel ball bearings could function as a crude ball mill. Will have to investigate:
Ball Mill / Tumbler : Amazon?]]> RobH2 General Tue, 18 Mar 2014 13:36:47 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326723#msg-326723 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326723#msg-326723 If you can source the Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2) powder you should be fine, I think...

I think that the Phosphoric acid (H3PO4) creates a Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2) colloid via chelation.
You might need to filter the solution after chelation.

If Phosphoric acid (H3PO4) doesn't create a colloid (you'll know after you try it the first time),
then I think you might need a ball mill to reduce the particle size of the Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2) to 1 nm and 1 μm, (1 and 1000 nanometers).
Note (ball mill): You don't want any plastic resin, or any other type of particle mixed with the Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2), as it will kill, or hinder the plating process.

From your ebay link:
Manganese Dioxide [MnO2] with a mesh size of 300.
I don't know what scale the mesh size is referencing.

Mesh (scale)
[en.wikipedia.org])

MESH TO MICRON CONVERSION CHART
[www.showmegold.org]

Ball mill
[en.wikipedia.org]

Improvement in the etching performance of the acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene resin by MnO2-H3PO4-H2SO4 colloid.
The present study aimed to evaluate the surface etching of the acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene (ABS) resin in the MnO2-H3PO4-H2SO4 colloid.

To enhance the soluble Mn(IV) ion concentration and improve the etching performance of ABS resin,
Phosphoric acid (H3PO4) was added as a complexing agent into the Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2)-Sulfuric acid (H2SO4) etching system.
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]

Chelation = complexing agent.
Chelation describes a particular way that ions and molecules bind metal ions.
[en.wikipedia.org]

Colloid
particles dispersed in a medium have at least one dimension between approximately 1 nm and 1 μm, (1 and 1000 nanometers).
The dispersed-phase particles or droplets are affected largely by the surface chemistry present in the colloid.
[en.wikipedia.org]

Suspension
Usually they must be larger than 1 micrometer.
Unlike colloids, suspensions will eventually settle.
[en.wikipedia.org])

Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2).
Sulfuric acid (H2SO4).
Phosphoric acid (H3PO4).

Interesting factoid about Manganese(IV) dioxide (MnO2):
Manganese dioxide was one of the earliest natural substances used by human ancestors.
It was used as a pigment at least from the middle paleolithic (300,000 to 30,000 years ago).
It was possibly used first for body painting, and later for cave painting.
Some of the most famous early cave paintings in Europe were executed by means of manganese dioxide.
[en.wikipedia.org]
]]> A2 General Tue, 18 Mar 2014 12:55:36 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326681#msg-326681 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326681#msg-326681
Edit:

Just reporting back. I tried every ceramics supplier, chemical supplier, electroplating service and laboratory supplier in a 50-mile radius of Baltimore and no one uses or sells Manganese Dioxide liquid. So, I guess if my etchant does not work well without it, I'll have to bite the bullet and pay the $50 hazardous shipping addon to get some delivered.

I appreciate the "thinking outside the box" suggestion.]]> RobH2 General Tue, 18 Mar 2014 11:20:48 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326466#msg-326466 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326466#msg-326466

Quote
JimG
I am not sure just how much will dissolve as MnO2 is classed as insoluble, you may just get the powder suspended in the liquid.

I think for your one-off creations that if you can etch it with the chemicals that you already have then save your money.

Try sourcing it from a ceramics store.

Manganese Dioxide [MnO2] with a mesh size of 300.
Uses include – ceramic glazes, pigment, dry cell batteries, matches, catalysts, laboratory reagents, scavengers and decolorizers, and textile dyeing.]]> A2 General Tue, 18 Mar 2014 02:47:16 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326338#msg-326338 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326338#msg-326338
I'm trying to pull the necessary etchant components together. I can order H3PO4 easy enough, well, 85% pure food grade from Amazon. I can get Sulfuric Acid from the Autoparts store, in fact, I have that already. The problem is Manganese dioxide. Whether I order 0.1 grams or 500 grams, it costs $50 to ship (on top of the standard shipping fee) due to being a hazardous chemical. What is Manganese dioxide and does it have a street name that I can find locally?

Edit: Just found this on Ebay. Would it work? Manganese Dioxide]]> RobH2 General Mon, 17 Mar 2014 17:21:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326229#msg-326229 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326229#msg-326229 RobH2 General Mon, 17 Mar 2014 14:39:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326185#msg-326185 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326185#msg-326185 Copper looks steam punkish (tu)

Every thing is important, but the etching, and activation is really important to get the metal to adhere to the base material.
I've read that the copper conductive paint does not adhere very well.
Maybe if you etch the ABS before painting it will help.
You should de-grease it too, because any oils in the resin will rise to the surface.
I've experienced this with a different material that was extruded, wax came to the surface.

De-greasing removes oils from surfaces,
acid cleaning removes scaling,
etching (10 to 15 percent chromic-sulfuric acid, dissolves the butadiene), duration?
activation (dipped into a colloidal solution of palladium and tin), duration?

I also like the environmental friendly etching from the link that you found.
Environmentally friendly etching system:
Manganese dioxide (MnO2), (concentration was 60 grams/Litre ) + Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), (2.5 litre) or (concentration was 11.8∼12.7 M).
H3PO4 was added as a complexing agent into the MnO2-H2SO4 etching system.
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
[www.researchgate.net]]]> A2 General Mon, 17 Mar 2014 13:39:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326148#msg-326148 Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,304620,326148#msg-326148
A2 asked for an update. I got side tracked with a project. 3d Animation is my primary business and plating these parts is an avocation at this point so it gets sidelined easily. I've designed something that I think I can market to some of my 3d clients and built a 3d printer. I've successfully learned the 3d printer and printed a number of the parts. The final stage is the plating. Once I get back to it I'm going to read through this thread again and meticulously follow all of the good suggestions. I'll report back then and let you know how it goes.

Where I left off however was here: I printed the ABS part with the filament I have (most likely not plating grade). I used a proper degreaser on it, painted it with copper conductive paint, tinned it and plated it with copper. My goal is to finally have a top nickel plate. I was hoping a thick copper plate would create a stable base layer. However, the copper was bubbly and was not sticking (I posted a photo showing the issue). It was shiny so I think that tank is performing well but just not sticking. That stopped me in my tracks. Then I got a large 3d project. I think that I'm having a moisture issue and that maybe some water is getting into the hollow ABS part. It seems to have a sealed continuous skin but maybe there is a micro leak between two layers of ABS. Then my 3d project hit and the whole thing abruptly stopped.

I'll get back to is soon. I'm sure if I carefully adhere to all of you guys excellent suggestions I'll solve it. I will report in.

Thanks again guys...

Bubbles-NonAdhesion.jpg

]]> RobH2 General Mon, 17 Mar 2014 12:35:37 -0400