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        <title>Induction heater</title>
        <description>From what I can tell hot end design have not progressed much, especially on hobby printers.  I think inductive heater would increase precision, control and maybe speed of melting filament, especially for multicolor printing, but I don&#039;t see any development in this area.  Here&#039;s an interesting induction heater used for FDM:

[url=https://youtu.be/im-OYObxMdM]https://youtu.be/im-OYObxMdM[/url]</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,766463#msg-766463</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Mon, 09 Mar 2026 14:20:05 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775538#msg-775538</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775538#msg-775538</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ One application for the induction heater may be high melt point filament, like pewter wire.<br />
3d print metal? why not?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prot0typ1cal</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2017 11:59:59 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775519#msg-775519</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775519#msg-775519</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>newbob</strong><br />
..........................<br />
<br />
How wide was your coil and what was the distance between thermal break and the nozzle?  I'm looking into localizing the induction heating in the nozzle, far away from the heat break...</div></blockquote>
<br />
The length of the ferromagnetic part between the 316 stainless steel (non-magnetic) heatbreak and the brass nozzle was 16mm, the diameter of the coil was 14mm od made of 10 turns of flat 0.95mm x 2mm silver plated copper wire. The ferrite flux concentrator to keep the HF files away from the heatbreak was 15mm od, 8mm id and 2mm thick placed at the beginning of the ferromagnetic part. The concentrator worked, but not great.  The other significant problem was self heating of the capacitors at about 40 degrees above ambient. If there was some way of getting a flexible hotend without having a very short transition zone I might still explore, but at the moment I have other fish to fry<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2017 10:30:37 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775516#msg-775516</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775516#msg-775516</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ After a few attempts I have found a number of problems and I think it unlikely that the complexity and cost would make it something that appeals to the Makers or the Open Source movement at large. If a credible user base of a few thousand existed and if I were still in product development I would be furiously trying to sell this as a worthwhile investment (if HP, Polaroid etc are listening then PM me), otherwise nah!!(td)<br />
<br />
A hotend idea that may still be feasible is sensing the temperature with the same wire as the heater is made of [<a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,770683" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">forums.reprap.org</a>]  Running the numbers for thermal resistance of the parts and the electrical characteristics of pure nickel wire seem to indicate this may work - not one of my priorities at the moment though.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2017 10:17:24 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775515#msg-775515</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775515#msg-775515</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>leadinglights</strong><br />
I have managed to confirm that it is possible to get a short thermal break . This required a HF "soft" ferrite washer to localize the magnetic field and prevent induction into the thermal break area. Having said than, I can now see no good engineering reason to use induction heating as it is unlikely to be lighter or cheaper or less complex than the resistive options. Geek factor B)- and general coolness B) are good but must always give way to good engineering. :D<br />
<br />
I can now use the time saved on several other projects<br />
<br />
Mike</div></blockquote>
<br />
How wide was your coil and what was the distance between thermal break and the nozzle?  I'm looking into localizing the induction heating in the nozzle, far away from the heat break...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2017 10:07:07 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775495#msg-775495</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775495#msg-775495</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Mike,<br />
<br />
So you are satisfied that it is not an road worth investigating any further?<br />
We were looking into it and thought it might be a nice idea.<br />
So your personal opinion would be to look for something else?<br />
<br />
Lykle]]></description>
            <dc:creator>zestytechnology</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2017 07:07:40 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775488#msg-775488</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,775488#msg-775488</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have managed to confirm that it is possible to get a short thermal break . This required a HF "soft" ferrite washer to localize the magnetic field and prevent induction into the thermal break area. Having said than, I can now see no good engineering reason to use induction heating as it is unlikely to be lighter or cheaper or less complex than the resistive options. Geek factor B)- and general coolness B) are good but must always give way to good engineering. :D<br />
<br />
I can now use the time saved on several other projects<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2017 06:11:59 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,773197#msg-773197</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,773197#msg-773197</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I am still playing with induction heating although not on the front burner. My first trials were delayed a bit buy the first board from ebay not working then I found that the 5mm diameter non-magnetic stainless steel drilled bolt that I was trying for the heat break was heating up somewhat too much to be much use. In the sectioned view below the light grey part is the heat break tube and the big dark grey block is the heatsink <br />
<br />
[attachment 95289 SectionedHeater.jpg]<br />
<br />
Some trials that I have just made with 4mm diameter 316 stainless steel tube look a lot more promising as it heats up very little. Also the aluminium of the heatsink neither heats up nor seems to steal any power.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2017 11:53:06 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770698#msg-770698</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770698#msg-770698</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello,<br />
<br />
Please feel free to try developing and selling hot-ends and let me know how it works out for you.  <br />
<br />
I've made hot-ends since around 2008 or 2009 and literally been told to create new designs so that people can buy chinese knock-offs.  The J-Head Mk 9 is only a prototype because of this reason and the fact that china can sell hot-ends for around the price of the raw materials and include free shipping.  The majority buy on price alone.<br />
<br />
Personally, I could envision a proper hot-end with induction heating and a thermocouple.  Throw in a quick-change mount (another design I haven't marketed because of my above reasons.) and a bowden configuration and it would be fantastic.  But, once china would sell it, all of the sales of the original developer would dry up quickly.<br />
<br />
I have no way of knowing the numbers.  However, I suspect that E3d has lost millions of dollars in sales to chinese knock-offs.  I have no way of knowing how much business I have lost due to the same issue.<br />
<br />
Best Regards,<br />
<br />
Brian<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Lykle</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>reifsnyderb</strong><br />
<br />
Given that the induction heater requires more electronics, people aren't going to want to pay for it, either.</div></blockquote>
<br />
If there is a clear benefit sure they will. And the costs can come down by quite a bit after the initial experimentation.<br />
As to the clones, that should not be a reason to stop developing. E3D do it very successfully. Yes they are cloned, but I will still buy original.<br />
Until we develop a better one. <br />
<br />
I like the idea of induction heating. Makes sense. Put the energy where you need it, heat only that part you want hot. It is not a magical cure all, for sure, but it does need investigating.</div></blockquote>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>reifsnyderb</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 28 May 2017 15:53:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770669#msg-770669</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770669#msg-770669</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ At the moment it is not clear that an induction heated hotend will be much more complex or expensive than a resistively heated one. It may be as simple as a two transistor oscillator with some capacitors and a self supporting coil powered by the same MOSFET (on the RAMPS board or whatever) as the heater cartridge is. The main problems are:<br />
<br />
<ul><li> Can the oscillator be relied to start each time the MOSFET is switched on. If it cannot, can the design be made safe against thermal runaway and all of the heartbreak, homelessness and fire brigade involvement that goes with a bad failure</li><li> Can the part of the hotend that is heated by the high frequency induction be made in such a way as to allow a short transition zone in the filament path.</li><li> Can the design be simple enough to be made by greengrocers, lawyers, midwives and others who start from a position of not knowing which end of a soldering iron to hold.</li></ul>
<br />
It does seem a bit strange to me that a community of makers, geeks and others who DO know which end of a soldering iron to hold seems so adverse to any new or novel ideas.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 28 May 2017 12:00:13 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770661#msg-770661</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770661#msg-770661</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>reifsnyderb</strong><br />
<br />
Given that the induction heater requires more electronics, people aren't going to want to pay for it, either.</div></blockquote>
<br />
If there is a clear benefit sure they will. And the costs can come down by quite a bit after the initial experimentation.<br />
As to the clones, that should not be a reason to stop developing. E3D do it very successfully. Yes they are cloned, but I will still buy original.<br />
Until we develop a better one. <br />
<br />
I like the idea of induction heating. Makes sense. Put the energy where you need it, heat only that part you want hot. It is not a magical cure all, for sure, but it does need investigating.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Lykle</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 28 May 2017 10:54:34 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770209#msg-770209</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770209#msg-770209</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello,<br />
<br />
The best chance for new hot-end technology, such as by using an induction heater, is in the hands of the hobbyist.  The problem is that if somebody develops a new hot-end, it is copied by the chinese.  Then, most people buy the cheap chinese copies.  So, there is no incentive for a company to create an induction heater hot-end to add to china's profit margin.  R&amp;D costs money.  <br />
<br />
Given that the induction heater requires more electronics, people aren't going to want to pay for it, either.<br />
<br />
Best Regards,<br />
<br />
Brian<br />
<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>newbob</strong><br />
From what I can tell hot end design have not progressed much, especially on hobby printers.  I think inductive heater would increase precision, control and maybe speed of melting filament, especially for multicolor printing, but I don't see any development in this area.  Here's an interesting induction heater used for FDM:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/im-OYObxMdM" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">https://youtu.be/im-OYObxMdM</a></div></blockquote>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>reifsnyderb</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 25 May 2017 20:59:06 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770199#msg-770199</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,770199#msg-770199</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I managed to melt some PLA, however, coil got too warm too quickly, also stainless steel throat heated up much quicker than brass.  What is encouraging is that this circuit did not use more than 30W and had no trouble heating up throat and nozzle inserted into the coil (SS throat used is slightly magnetic).  Based on this quick test coil needs to be much smaller and stay cooler, plus throat needs to be made from non nonmagnetic material past the heat-brake (if still within coils range) <br />
<br />
[attachment 94569 MOV_2.mp4]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 25 May 2017 18:14:58 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769772#msg-769772</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769772#msg-769772</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Another possibility is to use a small MCU as an oscillator - perhaps with a bit of smarts like emergency shut down. Microchip has some 8 pin PIC 12 MCUs with complementary waveform generation which cost well under £1 each.<br />
<br />
Coil is 14mm OD, 10mm ID and 12mm tall. Wound with 2mm x 0.9mm silver coated copper wire from The Scientific Wire Company<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 23 May 2017 10:25:12 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769760#msg-769760</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769760#msg-769760</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>leadinglights</strong><br />
@newbob,<br />
Thanks for the pointers to the inductance calculators, I found they gave a different value to the one that I had used. Your one was right and the inductance now comes out at 0.77microhenries - the other one (allaboutcircuits I think) said 1.92microhenries.<br />
I have spend a bit of time browsing the web and even joined another forum  [<a href="https://highvoltageforum.net/index.php?topic=75.0" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">highvoltageforum.net</a>]  to get more background. <b>The biggest worry is that the common circuits are all capable of stalling on power up</b> - not a good thing if the is powered directly from the output of a controller as it may give several opportunities per second for the oscillator to stall and burn out.<br />
<br />
Mike</div></blockquote>
<br />
Looking at reference designs for induction stoves they all use microcontroller/IC to regulate power and to keep heater working within design parameters.  I think it would be best, once nozzle is proven to work, to have an induction circuit with a IC that can vary heater output power (instead of bang bang control) which would allow higher safety, very fast heatup times and lower temperature fluctuations.<br />
<br />
I see many circuits using IRS2453 IC, such as <a href="http://www.homemade-circuits.com/2017/01/induction-heater-circuit-for-labs-and.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this one</a> <br />
<br />
What are the dimensions of your coil?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 23 May 2017 09:01:34 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769719#msg-769719</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769719#msg-769719</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @newbob,<br />
Thanks for the pointers to the inductance calculators, I found they gave a different value to the one that I had used. Your one was right and the inductance now comes out at 0.77microhenries - the other one (allaboutcircuits I think) said 1.92microhenries.<br />
I have spend a bit of time browsing the web and even joined another forum  [<a href="https://highvoltageforum.net/index.php?topic=75.0" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">highvoltageforum.net</a>]  to get more background. The biggest worry is that the common circuits are all capable of stalling on power up - not a good thing if the is powered directly from the output of a controller as it may give several opportunities per second for the oscillator to stall and burn out.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 23 May 2017 05:12:32 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769573#msg-769573</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769573#msg-769573</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @briangilbert, I have just wound a coil exactly per the CAD and it comes out to 7.6 grams so I think there need not be a weight penalty.<br />
<br />
[attachment 94474 20170523_0948191.jpg]<br />
(Not the one I weighed as no dog-leg on one lead, but the other one was ugly)<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 22 May 2017 11:48:13 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769565#msg-769565</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,769565#msg-769565</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Considering that I want my coil to be 15mm tall I'm looking at multilayer coils, specifically double wound coil.  According to calc below I'll need to reduce number of turns per layer to 4 to maintain same inductance.<br />
<br />
Air coil calculator: [<a href="http://electronbunker.ca/eb/InductanceCalcML.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">electronbunker.ca</a>]<br />
[<a href="http://www.tesla-institute.com/!app/sim/acic.php" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.tesla-institute.com</a>]<br />
<br />
Coil that comes with the heater:<br />
<div id="div_fa6287075402d2842854dbe79c92db7f"
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            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 22 May 2017 11:04:50 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768844#msg-768844</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768844#msg-768844</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @briangilbert<br />
It may not add anything, this is only a guess as it is too early to get more than a feel for it but I think the total weight would be somewhere between the weight of a hotend with an aluminium block and one with a brass block.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 19 May 2017 03:46:48 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768817#msg-768817</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768817#msg-768817</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @leadinglights<br />
<br />
Any ideas of the weight it would add?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>briangilbert</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 May 2017 21:43:36 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768708#msg-768708</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768708#msg-768708</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So far all CAD and notes on scraps of paper and endless looking at similar exercises on Google and YouTube but I looks like it should be possible to get about 40W of power at the hotend. This design is to be used on my Hot Delta with a designed maximum enclosure temperature of 100C so many parts will need to be in a water cooled jacket.<br />
The biggest problem at the moment is that few of the manufacturers of polyester capacitors give important data for this sort of use. It looks like a bit of "suck it and see" will be needed.<br />
The size at the moment is under 30mm across the transistors and 35mm long from the end capacitor to the end of the coil - this will obviously increase with metalwork, tubework and connectors but feels to be a good start <br />
<br />
[attachment 94285 Newhotend4.jpg]<br />
<br />
Upside down view showing only  the principal electronic parts and nozzle.<br />
<br />
Also needed will be things like a PEEK coil support to stop the coil being squished and possibly some form of thermal insulation to lessen the work of the water cooling.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 May 2017 07:11:48 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768594#msg-768594</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768594#msg-768594</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>newbob</strong><br />
............. I ordered the same induction heater board.  This board has two chokes, later I saw  <a href="https://youtu.be/9xyth-2g3rk" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">video </a>  where presenter claims that boards with single choke with midpoint are more stable. .............</div></blockquote>
<br />
Possibly true, but on the two choke circuit I think the chokes can be at some distance from the oscillator and tank circuit so reducing moving weight at the hotend.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong></strong><br /> ............ Analog is a cheap way to start testing but ultimately I think digitally controlled heater would be the way to go.  From what I understand, in the video in my original post, author is using micro controller for the heater, probably similarly to <a href="https://www.uni-obuda.hu/journal/Gyorok_51.pdf" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this doc</a> .  Using uC has it's advantages as one can vary power by changing frequency of the circuit which should be much more precise and quicker.</div></blockquote>
<br />
I have often used small 6 or 8 pin PIC microcontrollers to replace things like 555 timer ICs where they are more accurate, cheaper and waaaaay cooler but I don't think that they offer any advantage over analogue techniques for hotend control - I may be wrong though.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 May 2017 15:04:01 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768559#msg-768559</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768559#msg-768559</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>leadinglights</strong><br />
That is an instructive video but with care an inductive heater can be made with only a modicum of electronic knowledge. The main "gotchas" are that the Royer circuit needs a fast switch on and that the the type of capacitor is very important. Having said that, for hotend use in a 3D printer it would be nice to drive it with the same PWM input as used with a resistive heater. To use a PWM, or even a bang-bang control will need the the oscillator to be switched on and off up to several times a second without locking up and may lead to white smoke, tears and the gnashing of teeth. To work with while I am evolving a circuit,  I have ordered two of these from Amazon [<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J7Q85DQ/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_3p_dp_1" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.amazon.co.uk</a>]  They are 120W which is two or three times more than a hotend needs but I will copy and modify shamelessly. More importantly they are only £5.38 each so if I fry them there will be little moaning.<br />
<br />
Mike</div></blockquote>
<br />
...I ordered the same induction heater board.  This board has two chokes, later I saw  <a href="https://youtu.be/9xyth-2g3rk" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">video </a>  where presenter claims that boards with single choke with midpoint are more stable.  If you're looking for circuit diagrams - there's one in that video.<br />
<br />
Analog is a cheap way to start testing but ultimately I think digitally controlled heater would be the way to go.  From what I understand, in the video in my original post, author is using micro controller for the heater, probably similarly to <a href="https://www.uni-obuda.hu/journal/Gyorok_51.pdf" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this doc</a> .  Using uC has it's advantages as one can vary power by changing frequency of the circuit which should be much more precise and quicker.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 May 2017 12:13:55 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768450#msg-768450</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768450#msg-768450</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just in case you guys are unaware of it, an induction heated hot end system is described in this thread from 2015:<br />
 <a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,481721" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Induction heating for 3D printer</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MattMoses</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2017 18:41:58 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768419#msg-768419</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768419#msg-768419</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ That is an instructive video but with care an inductive heater can be made with only a modicum of electronic knowledge. The main "gotchas" are that the Royer circuit needs a fast switch on and that the the type of capacitor is very important. Having said that, for hotend use in a 3D printer it would be nice to drive it with the same PWM input as used with a resistive heater. To use a PWM, or even a bang-bang control will need the the oscillator to be switched on and off up to several times a second without locking up and may lead to white smoke, tears and the gnashing of teeth. To work with while I am evolving a circuit,  I have ordered two of these from Amazon [<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J7Q85DQ/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_3p_dp_1" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.amazon.co.uk</a>]  They are 120W which is two or three times more than a hotend needs but I will copy and modify shamelessly. More importantly they are only £5.38 each so if I fry them there will be little moaning.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2017 16:15:14 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768403#msg-768403</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768403#msg-768403</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I see induction heater as a valid alternative to cartridge heaters.<br />
What most people miss is that current coils are built to deliver over 1000 degrees C. Totally over-kill for melting filament.<br />
Smaller, lighter weight coils, with smaller capacitors could be used to produce 500 degrees C or less, and offer more control over selected melt temperatures.<br />
More experimentation and prototyping may result in a favorable solution applicable for 3d printing.<br />
Using single piece nozzle, like the Prometheus, would be a good choice to start with, and help isolate the melt zone, and create a more compact assembly.<br />
Would be a fun project.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prot0typ1cal</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2017 15:15:53 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768366#msg-768366</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768366#msg-768366</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ After watching this [<a href="https://youtu.be/gNL4H5fC6AY?t=27m38s" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">youtu.be</a>] I decided against assembling my own circuit.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2017 11:43:56 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768340#msg-768340</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768340#msg-768340</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Friction welding in a cheap 10 inch lathe seems not to be a practical proposition as the tailstock and drill chuck construction is not rigid enough - it is hard to keep the two rods that you are attempting to weld together in line. I have managed one fairly strong weld and about a dozen complete failures. Since my lathe is somewhat better set up than they come from the shops I am no longer optimistic about friction welding.<br />
I will try to give a bit of background heat from an induction heater in the hopes that this will reduce the end load from friction but that will need something a touch more powerful than my first assay at making a Royer oscillator. To this end I have sent for a couple of 120W induction heaters from Amazon.<br />
It would be philosophically satisfying to use the same induction heater both to make its own (insert name for heater tube bit) and then do the heating for printing; but at the moment I am "Plan B"ing and back-peddling at the same time.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2017 10:21:34 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768313#msg-768313</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768313#msg-768313</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Nice idea! <br />
<br />
Will not necessarily make it lighter, but will make it better to control.<br />
And generating the heat exactly where we need it is perfect. I can see a whole range of experiments opening up, like, what is the optimal distance from the nozzle tip to put the heat. Things that are not possible with a heating element.<br />
<br />
Composite nozzles, made of different materials to focus the heat and the cooling to where it is needed. <br />
Lykle]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Lykle</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2017 07:57:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768191#msg-768191</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768191#msg-768191</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>newbob</strong><br />
I've done some more reading and I think I'll go with horseshoe inductor positioned on two sides of the nozzle instead of trying to squeeze enough coil around it.  I'm also looking at ways of focusing the magnetic flux to direct it precisely at the end of the nozzle where I think it should be (I maybe wrong and may get oozing and not enough melting speed but I'm curious the outcome).</div></blockquote>
<br />
I will be interested to see how that comes out, I have seen similar inductors for heating frozen bolts and for induction hardening instrument components.<br />
I am presently exploring a possible answer to joining a high permeability mild steel heatable part to a very low permeability austenitic stainless steel part by friction welding. A good demo on [<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRDQwP4JcNA" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]   This may give us the ability to have the needed short transition between the hot and cold sides of the hotend.<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>leadinglights</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 15 May 2017 12:32:48 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768168#msg-768168</guid>
            <title>Re: Induction heater</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,766463,768168#msg-768168</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've done some more reading and I think I'll go with horseshoe inductor positioned on two sides of the nozzle instead of trying to squeeze enough coil around it.  I'm also looking at ways of focusing the magnetic flux to direct it precisely at the end of the nozzle where I think it should be (I maybe wrong and may get oozing and not enough melting speed but I'm curious the outcome).]]></description>
            <dc:creator>newbob</dc:creator>
            <category>General</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 15 May 2017 11:16:02 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
    </channel>
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