Diamond hotends heatsink Hi! I plan to use a Diamond hotend (3 or 5 colors) in Lite6 config. I'm wondering: are 3 (5) heatsinks really needed ? As PTFE tubing goes to the Diamond, what about making a custom heatsink (don't know yet how), in order to attach the Diamond on the carriage, and put the (all metal) pushfits directly on the Diamond? Thanks, https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,787886#msg-787886 Sat, 07 Mar 2026 22:31:17 -0500 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792563#msg-792563 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792563#msg-792563 fma General Tue, 17 Oct 2017 04:10:03 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792561#msg-792561 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792561#msg-792561
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fma
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deckingman
I'm still not sure where you are going with this? Why don't you want to use the standard configuration and just fit 3 lite 6 heat sinks? They work fine on the 3 colour version.

Yes, but if they are only usefull for fixation, why bother with such huge piece of metal? And if it works, it could solve your problems with the 5 colours... And make a cheaper config.

Seriously? You think E3D only fit heat sinks to their V6 as a way of fixing it? The 5 colour Diamond has a problem with heat creep and my latest tests (https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/14/the-diamond-5-colour-part-2/) seem to confirm my theory that it's because the lower fins of the 5 colour heat sinks have a reduced surface area compared to the 3 colour version. You are proposing to reduce that surface area to nothing by doing away with them altogether. Even if you manage to find an alternative to heat sinks, you then have to devise a way to mount it all rigidly. Seems like a lot if time and effort to find an alternative to something that already works but hey, if it makes you happy who am I to criticise.]]> deckingman General Tue, 17 Oct 2017 03:11:51 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792554#msg-792554 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792554#msg-792554
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frankvdh
My thinking is that 6mm PTFE might not have much depth into an M6 thread, so the brass tube would stop the PTFE from collapsing and therefore stay in the fitting better.

Well, it seems that some people are using threaded 4mm PTFE on the extruder side. The problem on hotend side is the temperature, which may soften the PTFE. I will test this config next week. If it does not last long enough, I will try 6mm. But looking at this page, it appears that the effort is not that important. I will statically test how much load I can handle with the 4mm threaded PTFE...]]> fma General Tue, 17 Oct 2017 01:09:52 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792540#msg-792540 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792540#msg-792540
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fma

You're suggesting to put a short brass tube inside the 6x3 PTFE tube, in the Diamond threaded space?

Yes. My thinking is that 6mm PTFE might not have much depth into an M6 thread, so the brass tube would stop the PTFE from collapsing and therefore stay in the fitting better. Also that pushing a 3mm OD PTFE into a 3mm ID PTFE tube would be difficult (although I've never tried it).

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And then go up to the extruder with the 3x2 PTFE tube?

I hadn't even thought about how to get from there to the extruder.]]> frankvdh General Mon, 16 Oct 2017 19:32:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792518#msg-792518 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792518#msg-792518
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frankvdh
[www.aliexpress.com] lists

Teflon tube 030060PT 3*6mm 3mm 6mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius

If 3mm ID is too big, you could maybe use a 2*3mm tube inside that?

Teflon tube 020030PT 2*3mm 2mm 3mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius

Thanks for the links and suggestion of tube in tube!

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Or probably better would be a 2*2.9mm metal inner tube. [www.aliexpress.com]

You're suggesting to put a short brass tube inside the 6x3 PTFE tube, in the Diamond threaded space? And then go up to the extruder with the 3x2 PTFE tube?

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AFAICT, PTFE is only sold in metric sizes.

I once had a small piece of 6.35x2 PTFE tube... But I don't know where it came from.]]> fma General Mon, 16 Oct 2017 15:57:53 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792516#msg-792516 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792516#msg-792516
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deckingman
I'm still not sure where you are going with this? Why don't you want to use the standard configuration and just fit 3 lite 6 heat sinks? They work fine on the 3 colour version.

Yes, but if they are only usefull for fixation, why bother with such huge piece of metal? And if it works, it could solve your problems with the 5 colours... And make a cheaper config.]]> fma General Mon, 16 Oct 2017 15:52:29 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792514#msg-792514 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792514#msg-792514 www.aliexpress.com] lists

Teflon tube 030060PT 3*6mm 3mm 6mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius

If 3mm ID is too big, you could maybe use a 2*3mm tube inside that?
Teflon tube 020030PT 2*3mm 2mm 3mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius

Or probably better would be a 2*2.9mm metal inner tube. [www.aliexpress.com]

AFAICT, PTFE is only sold in metric sizes.]]> frankvdh General Mon, 16 Oct 2017 15:46:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792513#msg-792513 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792513#msg-792513 deckingman General Mon, 16 Oct 2017 15:41:55 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792506#msg-792506 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792506#msg-792506
Does anyone now where I can buy such PTFE tube?]]> fma General Mon, 16 Oct 2017 14:28:52 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792336#msg-792336 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,792336#msg-792336
[attachment 98852 20171015_111707.jpg]

My first idea was to drill/thread a M6x6 hexagonal screw, but as I ordered a few weeks ago these fits, I just used one to make the job without Lathe.

I just cut the top part (press fit), and threaded the bottom M6 part: the nice thing is the hole was already 3.4mm, so perfect for M4! And as it is brass, it is very easy to do (stainless steel would be better for heat, and I will try my first idea using a M6x6 screw if this one does not work). Then, I just had to screw the PTFE tube in it, and screwed this part on the Diamond.

I will first make a test with a custom heater block as Lite6-like head, and see how it works. It may require a fan to blow on the fits (the insulator should prevent the diamond to cool down); but maybe not.

For the diamond, I plan to use the 3 lateral M3 holes to attach it (these holes are here for cartridge/thermistor fix; long headless screws and nuts for the fixation.]]> fma General Sun, 15 Oct 2017 05:32:15 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,791385#msg-791385 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,791385#msg-791385
Glad you appreciate the blog. These things take a fair bit of time and effort to write up so I appreciate the feedback.

Also, yes the Diamond hot end isn't perfect by any means but in my opinion, it's not as bad as some approaches to printing multi colour. Until something better comes along, it's the best of a bad bunch IMO. At least it has taught me a lot and I think I know what's needed to make a better mixing hot end but I don't have the time or resources to make one myself.

I had considered reversing the air flow (which is normally top to bottom) but I discounted it on the grounds that the air would take the easiest path and so most of the flow would be drawn through the upper fins because they are closer to the fan. From what I've managed to glean, it's the lower fins that dissipate most of the heat, which makes sense when you think about it, so this is where a higher air flow will be of most benefit.

The fan(s) I am looking at using have a very high airflow but also quite a high static back pressure. That means that I can mask off some areas and channel the air flow to where it's needed. The thing I need to be careful of is not blowing too much air over the brass block and especially, not blowing cold air over the heater cartridge which is in the centre. That would just to wreak havoc. So like the 3 colour version, there are shrouds in the areas between the heat sinks where they don't touch, to channel the airflow through the fins, but unlike the 3 colour version, there is also a central vertical tube to mask the top of the brass block and the heater cartridge. It's difficult to explain but I'll post pictures on my blog. Hopefully, I'll be in a position to do some tests soon.

I've considered water cooling but because the heat sinks almost touch, there isn't any room to fit jackets around them. So it would have to be a custom cooling block and then how do you connect that to the 5 inputs which are angled at 22 degrees? It'd probably mean abandoning the brass part altogether so you might as well design a whole new hot end from scratch (one that actively mixes and has replaceable nozzles would be good). On the other hand, water cooling just means that you are transferring heat to water instead of to air. Both are fluids and unless you refrigerate the water somehow, both are at ambient temperature. So I think the main reason for using water cooling would be in an enclosed chamber where the air temperature is higher than ambient.

If the alternative fan doesn't work, I'll likely just give up on the 5 colour and stick with the 3 colour version.

Ian]]> deckingman General Fri, 06 Oct 2017 11:01:35 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,791218#msg-791218 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,791218#msg-791218
[somei3deas.wordpress.com]

About using more perimeters to allow the purge, you could also try to print infill first, so you have plenty of filament length to do that purge, so 2 perimeters should work. Except for the last 2 layers of each top surface where you need to purge outside of the print (I already made the system you described, purging in a box, with a metallic brush to clean the nozzle - the brush was in an old Stratasys). How to detect the last 2 layers of top surfaces is another story! Best way should be to do that in the slicer, but you may find a solution to do that with your scripts...

About the Diamond fan, how is oriented the air flow? From top to bottom (blowing on heatsinks), or from bottom to top (extracting air through the heatsinks)? I always use the second config, as I read a paper (not about 3D printing, but for electronic in enclosures) explaining that if you blow on obstacles, you may not have the air running on all opposite surface of the blower (dead zone). By extracting air, you in fact reduce the pressure, sucking the air, which then go around all surfaces in a better way. It's worth a try... Or build a water-cooled stuff...

Again, thanks for these valuable feedback about the Diamonds! If I go that way, it will save me (and other people) hours of headache!]]> fma General Thu, 05 Oct 2017 09:11:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790786#msg-790786 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790786#msg-790786
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frankvdh
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deckingman
... one of more filaments may be heated but unused for a long period of time - an hour or more depending on the object being printed. It is under these circumstances that strange things start to happen which "single filament" users will not have experienced.

It seems to me that a workaround shouldn't be difficult -- ensure that every 30 minutes or so, all filaments are extruded by a few mm. This could be done as part of infill, or on a separate 'wipe' tower. Probably a g-code post-processor for Slic3r or Cura could be written?

Yes for sure, and I've already written a little script to purge filaments at tool change. This seems to be essential when using PLA as it start to hydrolyse (gets more and more runny over time). So when it comes time to use a particular filament, what has been sitting in the melt chamber for a long time, it all comes out at once as runny blob. That's a bit of a bugger because it impacts on my idea of advancing the tool change point in the gcode file so that one can print without using purge towers. The script itself works fine and I'm so close but for this issue. PET-G works much better in this respect (that is, it doesn't hydrolyse as much) and I'm looking at experiments with other filaments such as ASA. My goal (which may not be achievable) is to be able to print multi-colour without using purge towers.

The filament swelling in the heat break area could also be addressed by periodic purging but it's wasteful of filament and increases print time. So I'd rather address the fundamental cause rather than accept it and come up with some sort of work around. Hence the plan to try a higher flow rate fan with modified ducts and shrouds.]]> deckingman General Tue, 03 Oct 2017 03:58:41 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790754#msg-790754 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790754#msg-790754
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deckingman
... one of more filaments may be heated but unused for a long period of time - an hour or more depending on the object being printed. It is under these circumstances that strange things start to happen which "single filament" users will not have experienced.

It seems to me that a workaround shouldn't be difficult -- ensure that every 30 minutes or so, all filaments are extruded by a few mm. This could be done as part of infill, or on a separate 'wipe' tower. Probably a g-code post-processor for Slic3r or Cura could be written?]]> frankvdh General Mon, 02 Oct 2017 20:46:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790725#msg-790725 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790725#msg-790725
What about trying water cooling? A simple solution would be to use a little silicone tube wrapped around the base of the heatsinks... There won't be a good thermal contact, but it may help. A copper maidenhair would be better, but you will need a powerfull pump...]]> fma General Mon, 02 Oct 2017 16:45:53 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790723#msg-790723 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790723#msg-790723
I won't go into things like PLA starting to hydrolyse and other strange happenings, but one thing that might be pertinent to this particular thread is that the 5 colour suffers from an issue that I think is caused by heat creep and which does not happen with the 3 colour version. What happens is that over time if the filament does not move forward but is heated to print temperature, it tends to swell in the area of the heat break. It doesn't melt and then harden which can be caused by too much retraction drawing molten filament up into the cold section, but rather it just seems to swell to the diameter of the PTFE liner. With PLA, this doesn't seem to cause a problem but with PETG, the filament tends to "bind" and it takes a lot of extruder tension to push this "swollen slug" of about 5mm through into the hot end. After which, it flows freely again until it sits and soaks at print temperature for an hour or so, whereby the problem will re-occur. The trouble is, setting a high extruder tension for the entire print is not a viable option as it grinds the filament away.

Apart from the fact that the 5 colour Diamond has two more heat sinks than the 3 colour, in order to fit these heat sinks into the same circumference, the lower fins have been reduced in diameter. So one theory which might explain why the 5 colour has the problem and the 3 colour does not, is that the reduced diameter of the heat sink fins has had a negative impact of the heat transfer efficiency (from the cold side of the heat break). I tried to measure the temperature in that area by putting a thermocouple between the lowest two fins. It was in contact with the lower fin but only just touching so is not by any means an accurate measurement. However, with the hot end heated to around 200 deg C, the temperature of the 5 colour small fins was around 66 degrees C but with the 3 colour and the larger fins it was around 42 degrees C.

I think that a higher air flow over the heat sinks might be the solution. However, I'm using the highest flow rate 24V 50mm fan that I can source so my next step is to modify the mount to take a 60mm fan which will enable me to use 3 to 4 times the airflow that RepRap.me recommend. I'm also re-designing the fan ducts and shrouds. I'll let you know how I get on but probably via my blog rather than these forums.]]> deckingman General Mon, 02 Oct 2017 16:33:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790653#msg-790653 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790653#msg-790653 fma General Mon, 02 Oct 2017 08:10:31 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790638#msg-790638 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790638#msg-790638
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fma
This week-end I printed a small part, and at the end of the print, I just realized that the E3D Lite6 fan was unplugged!
was hoping to find someone to do that, the e3d team mentions it the other day with a chat with Tomas that it was possible " just in case you missed it chat
what temp was you printing at?]]> jinx General Mon, 02 Oct 2017 07:02:53 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790625#msg-790625 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,790625#msg-790625
But the part printed without problem, without stringing or so. The PLA mount didn't suffer. Go figure...]]> fma General Mon, 02 Oct 2017 05:18:33 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789279#msg-789279 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789279#msg-789279
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frankvdh
Various people have been working on ink-based colouring systems for quite a while, I think mostly focused on inkjet technology. A soon-to-be-released example is [www.xyzprinting.com]

Interesting!

I also found this:

[3dprint.com]

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Getting back closer to the Diamond approach, I wonder about an "asymmetric" hot-end. Have one large (e.g. 3mm?) base-colour filament, and several smaller (1.75mm? or maybe 1mm?) filaments. These smaller filaments would really just be solid dye-carriers, to change the hue of the base colour. Perhaps they might be a different material from the main filament, but mixable with it. The physical properties of the dye-carrier material don't matter much; it just has to behave well during under extrusion and retraction. Pack as much dye as possible into the carriers, so that they are "super-intense"; hopefully the dye density would be 20 times what is needed to make a rich solid colour. Mix by volume up to 5% of various dye-carriers into 95% base filament to get any hue and saturation desired.

A transparent base would produce all kinds of translucent colours, including solid-looking colours if the dye density and the mixing were good enough. With a white base colour, you could produce shades from pale pastels through to maybe intense solid colour. Kindof like the way paint shops mix paint colours to the customer's requirement.

What about using very very fine powder, as colors?]]> fma General Fri, 22 Sep 2017 09:57:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789214#msg-789214 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789214#msg-789214 www.xyzprinting.com]

Getting back closer to the Diamond approach, I wonder about an "asymmetric" hot-end. Have one large (e.g. 3mm?) base-colour filament, and several smaller (1.75mm? or maybe 1mm?) filaments. These smaller filaments would really just be solid dye-carriers, to change the hue of the base colour. Perhaps they might be a different material from the main filament, but mixable with it. The physical properties of the dye-carrier material don't matter much; it just has to behave well during under extrusion and retraction. Pack as much dye as possible into the carriers, so that they are "super-intense"; hopefully the dye density would be 20 times what is needed to make a rich solid colour. Mix by volume up to 5% of various dye-carriers into 95% base filament to get any hue and saturation desired.

A transparent base would produce all kinds of translucent colours, including solid-looking colours if the dye density and the mixing were good enough. With a white base colour, you could produce shades from pale pastels through to maybe intense solid colour. Kindof like the way paint shops mix paint colours to the customer's requirement.]]> frankvdh General Thu, 21 Sep 2017 20:30:47 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789195#msg-789195 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789195#msg-789195
That's said, I'm still not convinced what you guys are explaining about the heatsink keeping the PTFE cold. The Lite6 heatsink is heated up by the heatblock. Right? The fan tends to keep it not too much hot, so it does not itself heat up the PTFE (so the filament). Am I still right?

But the base of the heatsink is much more hot that the ambiant air. I guess it is cooler that the PTFE. So as there is a gradient, there, the PTFE gives its heat to the heatsink. That's said, I really don't know if this gradient is better than fresh air. And I don't know how you can affirm that, without any measures.

The tests I made do not lead to one conclusion or to another, as I'm still not in a good configuration: my metal pushfit is too long, so it is like having the heatsink without fan. Which works (see above, I made some extrusion). Sort of. The only problem is retract. And, as you mentioned, it can be a mess with Diamond.

So what about having a (tiny) heatsink arround the PTFE, just above the heatblock, but not touching it? With a little fan, it can only be better than the default config, as the heatsink will be colder. Right? But this can only work with a very short pushfit, to get a short cold/hot transition. This is my next move: making this pushfit. I may have some ideas to test, but I will need to have access to a lathe.

You may ask: what is the point? It is to remove those large heatsinks, badly used: they are heated up but we want to keep them cold! They only serve as PTFE guide, and mounting. And I'm convinced we can do those 2 parts in a much smaller space. Heatsinks around PTFE could only have a diam. of 10mm and 4 or 5 fins. And the mounting part could be done through 3 threaded rods, which could allow a better and more rigid solution to mount the hotend, rather than through the fan duct (and plastic necklaces!).

Having no rigid connection between heatsinks and heatblock may also allow us to straighten the PTFE direction, and have them nearly // above the hotend, which can also allow shorter Bowden tubes.

Anyway, this won't improve the retract problem you mentioned with the Diamond 5... Maybe such (pseudo) mixing hot end is not the way to go. I'm wondering if some guys are working on an ink system to change the color of the filament in a mixing chamber, but only using 1 white filament? This would be much easier... I don't know how pigmentation is done for our filament (powder?). Has it been discussed before, on these forums?]]> fma General Thu, 21 Sep 2017 16:14:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789175#msg-789175 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789175#msg-789175
Having said all that, the Diamond 5 colour does have issues that the 3 colour doesn't, at least from what I've seen so far. The problem we have is that with multi coloured prints, the filaments can be left in the hot end, at print temperature, for hours before they are needed, (so without moving forward). From the testing I have done so far, it seems that there are heat creep issues at temperatures higher than 200 degC with the 5 colour. I'm not sure if the filament actually melts in the heat break zone or whether is just softens but the net result is that about 5mm or so of filament in the vicinity of the heat break "swells" enough to almost jam. My Titan extruders can just about overcome it but only by racking up the tension. This in itself can lead to problems of grinding the filament away. The problem doesn't appear to occur at temperatures below 200 degrees C which of course rules out printing 5 coloured parts in many filaments such as PET-G. PLA at around 190 deg C is fine. Compared to the 3 colour which doesn't seem to have these issues, the big differences are that the heat sinks are closer together which may affect the air flow around them, and also the lower fins of the heat sinks are of a smaller diameter in order to get 5 of them to fit around the same circumference, which may affect their ability to dissipate heat.

So all in all, I guess my concerns would be about how the filament is supported and how to keep to keep the brass nozzle hot if you simply blow air over the PTFE tube or filament. Oh and of course if you want to print at temperatures above about 240 deg C you didn't ought to be using PTFE tube. Having said all that, the Diamond does have room for improvement as regards heat creep (at least the 5 colour version) IMO.]]> deckingman General Thu, 21 Sep 2017 14:37:58 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789146#msg-789146 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,789146#msg-789146
What is very strange is the very long path in the heater block. On the other hand, the fan blows directly on the filament, just before it enters in the tube. So the cold/hot transition is not that long.

I tried this solution (without the curve), but I think my stainless steel tube was not smooth enough inside, and I had a lot of friction... Don't know where to find such small smooth tubes. If you have an idea...]]> fma General Thu, 21 Sep 2017 10:20:33 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788981#msg-788981 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788981#msg-788981 no still cant find a decent image in the search for it]]> jinx General Wed, 20 Sep 2017 07:44:33 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788979#msg-788979 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788979#msg-788979
About the E3D clip, I'm talking about this:

[attachment 98240 E3D_Kraken09thumb_28.jpg]

With such clip, the PTFE would not be heated up on a too long path...

BTW, have you ever see a Stratasys hotend? It is very surprising:

[attachment 98245 strata.jpg]

As you see, there is a very long path in the heatblock. And the tubes turn 90° right after the extruders, before entering in the heatblock!!! There is a huge fan blowing (through a big tube) on the rear of the heatblock. And catridge are 2x250W!!!]]> fma General Wed, 20 Sep 2017 07:26:20 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788963#msg-788963 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788963#msg-788963 all credit to the hotend makers "current and past" they put a lot of R&D into the current generation of HE, what you doing now is pulling out the key aspect of cooling from the D...unless you immerse those connectors in a water cooled system, and that be adding complexity and baggage
think my first test would be see how far I could thread the ptfe tub then thread some peek on the tube then how small I could go.
2nd be a washer stack on a e3d heatbreak then the connector,still aint alot of active cooling.

" Best would be something similar to E3D system, but with metal clip, directly inserted in the Diamond..."
am having an hard time following that idea you got a pic yet?]]> jinx General Wed, 20 Sep 2017 06:01:26 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788948#msg-788948 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788948#msg-788948
I'm waiting for new connectors ('à olive', in french. Union?), but I'm not sure they will be better. Best would be something similar to E3D system, but with metal clip, directly inserted in the Diamond...]]> fma General Wed, 20 Sep 2017 03:02:08 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788475#msg-788475 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788475#msg-788475
[attachment 98121 20170916_103126.jpg]

Stainless steel screws, alu heatsink... I should receive my metal pushfits on tuesday.]]> fma General Sat, 16 Sep 2017 05:48:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788472#msg-788472 Re: Diamond hotends heatsink https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,787886,788472#msg-788472 MechaBits General Sat, 16 Sep 2017 05:37:12 -0400