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klcjr89
Yes, the job is complete but we've been extremely busy fulfilling flex plate and magnet orders.

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bigsub
Hello to all,
I'm interested in modifying my ender 3 with belt on z and worm gear. So, did you complete the job?
b.

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the_digital_dentist
It doesn't really matter whether you put the drive on top or at the bottom of the Z axis. Belt stretch is negligible, especially in a machine that lifts a relatively light weight X axis. I put the Z axis drive at the bottom of the Z axis because my printer is a corexy machine and the Z axis drive would have been in the way of the filament feed which comes down into the machine from the top. In a machine where you're lifting the X axis, you could easily put the Z axis drive at the top of the machine if you wanted to minimize Z axis belt stretch. In a corexy machine, if you feed the filament to the extruder carriage via a tube from the side or below, you could put the Z axis drive at the top of the machine.

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the_digital_dentist
The way I built the Z axis, the bed always has at least 800 mm of belt to hang from even when the bed is at the top of the Z axis. As the print gets taller, the length of belt between the bed supports and the drive pulley gets longer, so the belts will stretch more (still not enough to matter). You could easily reduce the belt stretch by building the Z axis so the drive pulleys are at the top of the Z axis. The you'd start with the bed hanging from very short lengths of belt and there would be almost no stretch. I tested it with the bed at about the middle of the Z axis, so it was hanging from about 1100 mm of belt. In a shorter Z axis printer, there will be less stretch.

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the_digital_dentist
What parts did you end up using? Pictures?

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martin1454

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claustro

thank you I am asking a quote for this 2 gears but I am thinking if would be possible to use a 5mm bore worms with a 8 mm gear.
With this measure you can directly attach the worms to a standard nema 17 motors while using a 8mm for the shaft.

I you need to purchase them, look at [uk.misumi-ec.com]

I just ordered :
[uk.misumi-ec.com]
[uk.misumi-ec.com]

Was cheaper and easier than from KHKs own page.

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claustro

thank you I am asking a quote for this 2 gears but I am thinking if would be possible to use a 5mm bore worms with a 8 mm gear.
With this measure you can directly attach the worms to a standard nema 17 motors while using a 8mm for the shaft.

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the_digital_dentist
the Rino works well.

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obelisk79
@Claustro

For gears, I think these would work well (and provide a 1:30 ratio which should be sufficient, although I defer to Mark on that assertion):
AG1-30R1J8
SWG1-R1

the 8mm bore means you could use inexpensive and readily available long pieces of linear shaft and 8mm bore belt pulleys instead of trying to source long pieces of 5mm shaft.

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klcjr89
I wouldn't want to use a leadscrew as a shaft.

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obelisk79
@Claustro

For gears, I think these would work well:
AG1-30R1J8
SWG1-R1

the 8mm bore means you could use inexpensive and readily available long leadscrews and 8mm bore belt pulleys instead of trying to source long pieces of 5mm shaft.

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WesBrooks
Ah, that makes more sense now.

I had a similar issue recently trying to get a open source acrylic laser cut frame processed here in the uk only to find the acrylic used was what is in the uk an odd ball imperial size! :-D

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WesBrooks
You're aware of the risk, that's all that I wanted to raise.

Yes, I guessed there were already two bearings in the block, but spreading these wider apart on the shaft would stiffen the assembly dramatically for minimal increase in print time.

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WesBrooks
There's goingtobe a fair measure of twist on that stub axle from the belt tension.

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the_digital_dentist
I'm no fan of flat plate printed plastic motor mounts, and I'm not too sure about separating the motor mount/worm gear from the disc gear. The last thing you want is for the relative positions of the gears to change under load because that will change the position of whatever is being lifted by the belt(s). Flimsy motor and disc gear mounts will flex and do just that.

If you're going to use printed plastic parts to hold the gears, they need to be very bulky to ensure absolute minimal flex. This is what I used in an experimental printed worm gear box:

That tiny motor was lifting the 3.5 kg bed assembly in my printer at 10-15 mm per sec.

You may have to modify the layout of the machine to accomodate a really solid printed motor mount. That's life. You either build it so it will be solid and have a chance of working properly, or you do it half-assed and increase the probability of failure.

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claustro
I am following this very interesting thread.
@klcjr89 can I ask you haw much you payed for the worm gear and the gear?

thank you
Andrea