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        <title>MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
        <description>Need some advice...I&#039;m doing my research now for a new 3D printer.  I&#039;m pretty cost sensitive, so I&#039;ve been trying to get the very best bang for the buck, yet wind up with an excellent printer in the end.  The Prusa i3, though a fairly new and evolving design, seems to be the best cost/performance option out there.  So, I&#039;ve spent the last 2 weeks attempting to source parts for it in the US.  And yes, I need to stay with US sourced parts, since international shipping costs are a killer.

Looking at the whole picture, I&#039;ve concluded that I&#039;m looking at a total BOM cost of about $500 to $600 w/shipping (not including tools) as the very best case.  I&#039;m also having to factor in that there is some risk of purchasing poor quality and/or incorrect parts, since I&#039;m rather new to this.

So, looking at complete DIY kits available, the hands down winner on the cost front is the Prusa i3 kit from Maker Farm.  The complete kit is about the cost of the parts sourced individually (it&#039;ll run a small bit over $600)...with a very small, single shipping bill.

Does anybody have experience with this kit and/or Makerfarm?  The kit looks very well made and they have some nice &#039;extras&#039;.  It is also clear that they&#039;ve paid attention to quality (using  GT2 pulley&#039;s and belts).  

This just seems to be the clear choice from a price/performance standpoint...also, I love the idea of building it myself.  

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

UPDATE:  One drawback I do see with this particular model is that it has a relatively small build volume at 6 in x 3 (about 150 mm).  I&#039;m not sure what it is for other Prusa i3 kits/DIY, but I thought 200m x 3 was more or less standard.</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,199434#msg-199434</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Fri, 04 Sep 2026 09:44:42 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,430450#msg-430450</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,430450#msg-430450</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Any pointers on how to modify the firmware to support the graphical 128x64 lcd kit?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Stigern</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2014 17:12:33 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277915#msg-277915</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277915#msg-277915</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If you print out a shroud, use the link in the makerfarm manual. You will need it on large prints.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Antslake</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 10 Dec 2013 00:18:41 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277854#msg-277854</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277854#msg-277854</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The plastic tube that they use between the motors and the Z rods is pretty standard hardware store stuff. I had one of the dogs eat my original part. It was less than a dollar to get a lifetime supply from the local Lowes...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 09 Dec 2013 18:40:38 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277548#msg-277548</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277548#msg-277548</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ 9:20 pm Sydney time 12/9/13<br />
<br />
I have just come inside from the workshop where I was fixing the endstop problem.<br />
<br />
I contacted Colin and he directed me to the system schematic in the build notes. The problem was that I had connected the endstop plugs to the wrong sets of pins on the RAMPS board. A careful study of the schematic showed that the connectors have to join specific sets of pins. There are two sets of pins for each axis. If you put the connector on the wrong set, it don't work.<br />
<br />
Also, the Troubleshooting section of the Build Notes has been extended to show how to check if the endstops are wired correctly.<br />
<br />
When I connected the steppers to the board, I had the blue wire towards the top of the set of pins. This was back-to-front so I've changed them so the red wire is to the top, and everything moves in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
My next problem is to make a secure join between the Z-axis stepper shafts and the threaded rods. Mine were winding off, so I used a cable tie to clamp the plastic tube to the shafts and rods. I have a physical interference problem with the left hand assembly. That is bi big problem. I'll probably use some fine safety wire.<br />
<br />
Maybe I'll get printing this weekend - Christmas decorations and light permitting.<br />
<br />
Old Man Emu]]></description>
            <dc:creator>old man emu</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 09 Dec 2013 05:34:58 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277234#msg-277234</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277234#msg-277234</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The MakerFarm kit has changed a bit over the time it's been in production. The new Y end stop came into being after people started having issues with the old one. <br />
<br />
ABS is not a single material (it's not like water). It's a mix of this and that. The amount of smell varies a *lot* between vendors. I do believe that some of it is offensive. I have yet to find any that creates an issue printing indoors. The cheap stuff seems to be more noticeable than the more expensive stuff (big surprise there ...(:P))]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Dec 2013 11:08:22 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277208#msg-277208</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,277208#msg-277208</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Old man emu, I'm not sure if you got your end stop switch problem sorted out but I wanted to chime in with my experience. I just got my MakerFarm Prusa i3 8" and had the same end stop switch problem. What I found in my case was that I inadvertently mixed up the connections on the RAMPS board. I had X connected to where Z should've been and Y on X connection… The way I figured it out was I moved X in one direction using the 10-step position button in Pronterface and manually triggered each of the end stop switches until I found the correct one. After I found the correct switch, I changed the connection on the RAMPS board. I hope that makes sense.<br />
<br />
I also want to say another thing about the MakerFarm Prusa i3 build...<br />
<br />
Some people mentioned that the Y end stop bracket was too short and didn't make a proper connection. The kit I got recently came with TWO Y end stop mounting brackets. One of them is about 8.5mm longer than the original and allows the Y bed to stop in the right place. I think Colin is doing a great job listening to his customers and changing the design as quickly as possible. You can see the difference in the photo below.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
Another thing I was worried about was the fumes and proper ventilation. I was originally going to put this in my home office, until I started reading about people getting headaches from the ABS fumes. I decided to put this in the garage and build a ventilation fan system. While looking for parts for this, I ended up buying a cheap bathroom fan from home depot ($13) and a 20' piece of 3" flexible duct to run out of the garage door vents. In total, the vent system cost me about $22. I did a hack job mounting it for now to see if it is effective enough to be a permanent solution before I build a more elaborate mount or enclosure. I have to say that I am very happy with this little bathroom fan. I can't smell any ABS fumes in the garage and there is only an extremely light scent when you get close to the printer.<br />
<br />
I'd be happy to post a photo of my setup if anyone is interested.<br />
<br />
Dave<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dknell</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Dec 2013 09:49:29 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,270794#msg-270794</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,270794#msg-270794</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The full answer is that you can wire the switches either way and then change the firmware to match the way the switches are wired. On a normal setup, all of the end stop switches are wired the same way. X,Y, and Z are identical. If they are all wired the same way and only one does not work, that suggests:<br />
<br />
1) A bum wire<br />
2) A bad connector<br />
3) A bad solder joint on the Ramps board<br />
4) A bad switch<br />
<br />
You can quickly check most of those by putting hooking your ohm meter to the connector on the end and seeing what the switch does when you poke it.<br />
<br />
-----------<br />
<br />
back to trying to extend servo leads ....]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 22 Nov 2013 19:39:59 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,270780#msg-270780</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,270780#msg-270780</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You should wire the switches Normally CLOSED,,, That's the way to avoid interference...<br />
<br />
Do not forget to enable the pullups (should be already turned on in the "stock" makerfarm firmware)<br />
<br />
Best Regards.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AlexBorro</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 22 Nov 2013 18:32:13 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,270778#msg-270778</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,270778#msg-270778</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I cannot get my end-stop switches to work. I have wired them as indicated in the video and plugged them into the board as directed. However, the Y-axis will not stop when it hits the switch lever and the carriage overruns.<br />
<br />
Are the end stop switches for the 8" different from the ones on the 6"?<br />
<br />
According to the narrative of the video, the switches should be wired "Normally Closed", but the video shows them wired "Normally Open" (which seems correct to me) What is the stepper trying to do - always have current running through it, or only allowing current to flow when the switch is closed?<br />
<br />
Until I get this sorted, I can't use my machine, and I've had it nearly 3 months without a single print :(<br />
<br />
Old Man Emu]]></description>
            <dc:creator>old man emu</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 22 Nov 2013 18:23:02 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,260897#msg-260897</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,260897#msg-260897</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If you have to do tricks to get your bed to heat to 110 in less than 10 minutes, something is wrong. You should fix the problem rather than coming up with tricks. Either your power supply is in trouble, your bed is wrong, or there's a connection problem. If it's a power supply issue or a connection problem you could start a fire or melt your Ramps board. Neither one is a good thing to have happen.....]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 29 Oct 2013 18:10:02 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,260800#msg-260800</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,260800#msg-260800</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If put temporary some insulation on the bed, it will reach much faster the wanted temperature. I also want to try to put some radiator insulation foil below the bed, i think this will speed it up even more. And save energy...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>msmone</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 29 Oct 2013 13:21:44 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,257883#msg-257883</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,257883#msg-257883</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just got a Maker Farm running. I see no problem at all getting the heated bed up to temperature (as in 120C) very quickly. I'd guess it's doing it in under 10 minutes. That's with the stock fan on the Magma hot end and the fan almost touching the heated bed. With a good power supply, there's no problem with the fan at all.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Oct 2013 21:52:36 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,255227#msg-255227</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,255227#msg-255227</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It's also very possible that your brand of ABS is not quite the same as their brand of ABS. The other variable could be how fast you push matterial through the hotend.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 15 Oct 2013 12:36:54 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254880#msg-254880</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254880#msg-254880</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Actually it does a whole lot of difference to the bed temperature and especially warping of abs parts, without a fan my bed goes to 120c within 10-12 minutes. with the fan it took about 15-20 minutes to reach 110c, if the room was cold i would never reach 110c at all, i just dont see the point running the fan when my hotend never clog up, i've heard many people struggling with clogging even with the fan on full blast.<br />
maybe i just got lucky with mine.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Hårball</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 14 Oct 2013 13:56:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254590#msg-254590</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254590#msg-254590</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Well i doubt kinda a fan of 40mm will affect your Bed heater that much,<br />
Maybe a decent room temprature and it would still work,<br />
<br />
Here its aprox 15c and it still goes to 110, Its hard, But after a few min it does get up there. <br />
(Also got a Makerfarm btw)<br />
<br />
<br />
Well magma doesnt work with PLA, Well ive heard it does, with some hacking and tweaking.<br />
Oh well i am happy its working for you that well ^^]]></description>
            <dc:creator>luigi</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 13 Oct 2013 16:11:33 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254046#msg-254046</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254046#msg-254046</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ There are designs out there for fan shrouds. They should allow you to "focus" the air flow just on the top of the hot end.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 11 Oct 2013 20:54:15 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254016#msg-254016</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,254016#msg-254016</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I recently built this machine over the course of two nights, great bang for the buck i must say, initially i had warping problems due to the fan on the magma hotend, i also would not get the bed up to 110 degrees due to the same fan, so i decided to turn it off, and it worked like a charm, i now have about 10 hours printing time without it and have not had th hotend clogged up even once, i'm running it at 240 degrees and the bed at 120.<br />
<br />
this is on ABS, im not shure im gonna try PLA yet, as i like the charactheristics of ABS.<br />
<br />
anyone else have success running the magma without a fan?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Hårball</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 11 Oct 2013 17:46:48 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,252687#msg-252687</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,252687#msg-252687</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have evidence (as in a UPS confirmed tracking number) that they are now shipping in one business day. Ordered it Sunday and it shipped out mid afternoon Monday. Only disappointment so far is that UPS is going to get it here in a week rather than 4 days. Would have liked it to be here to beat on over the weekend.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>uncle_bob</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 07 Oct 2013 21:38:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,247778#msg-247778</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,247778#msg-247778</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I purchased my Makerfarm I3 a couple of weeks ago and took two days to assemble it. I calibrated it and adjusted square etc on everything just as I would any machine tool. I have about 30-40 hours of printing on it and no problems. It did take me several hours to get good quality prints but that was all about my learning curve and not the machine. At about ten hours I retightened everything as some screws had loosened. I started with pronterface and slic3r and was improving my prints with each one but still struggleing. A few days ago I switched to Cura from David at Ultimaker. Cura made a world of difference. I struggled initially learning all of the programs and their relationship to the machine but Cura "cured" all of my problems! One other thing I did was switch to ABS slurry to keep my prints attached to the bed. I had plenty of early "failed attempts" to make the slurry from. I had no luck with the hair spray. I have come up with a small product for a niche market that I have been perfecting over the last week and I may actually be ordering a second Makerfarm if my little product actually sells. It is an excellent machine if you take the time to learn how to use it. Build the machine square and attach it firmly and it will do great prints.<br />
<br />
I forgot to add: I have the Magma end and it has worked flawlessly but I only print in ABS.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mfarm user</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 23 Sep 2013 02:53:57 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241345#msg-241345</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241345#msg-241345</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ also just a small question,<br />
<br />
Do you guys also need to recalibirate this machine alot?<br />
In the Z and the carriage.<br />
<br />
and the Z screw is getting quiet loose, its not like in the start that it had alot of grip :P (Yet i never seen it move when you compare it from start to end of a print)<br />
 But for that there is normaly a Thingiverse solution so thats no big deal i guess.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>luigi</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 30 Aug 2013 17:17:41 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241293#msg-241293</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241293#msg-241293</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It is normal to run a little hot.. mine use to be at 80ºC~85ºC while printing.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AlexBorro</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:32:44 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241292#msg-241292</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241292#msg-241292</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ btw quick question, do your motors also get very hot?<br />
if not how did you fix it,<br />
Due well it seems mine stay hot and its normal but just as confirm ^^]]></description>
            <dc:creator>luigi</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:26:23 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241053#msg-241053</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,241053#msg-241053</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Nice print there, you should make more of those videos ^^<br />
always inspirates what i should do/make next on my printer ^^<br />
<br />
I also use that for my spool atm, works like a charm,<br />
<br />
Back to topic, if you wanna have a good printer bang on buck, just get the makerfarm,<br />
But i would suggest a Jhead since that can do ABS and PLA,<br />
When the magma seems to struggle, on PLA i have heard.<br />
<br />
Also full metal hotends all kinda have there bugs,<br />
If you wanna make those plastics that need more heat, get the magma, if you want PLA i wouldnt take that one.<br />
Or if you know someone who actualy got it working on it, I can only say what i've read ^^<br />
<br />
Also i use atm the speeds in cura as: 60 mm/s print speed, 80 infill.<br />
I would never been able to get these speeds without some anti vibirating feet for on the prusa,<br />
Now it has a way to escape. so less noise and less vibiration.<br />
Before i had these pads my max speed was like 30 printing and 40 infill.<br />
<br />
, atm still experimenting if it can go faster.<br />
<br />
<br />
Only issue i've got is that i almost have to redo my calibiration every day,<br />
<br />
This includes the carriage and z endstop.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>luigi</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Aug 2013 17:20:10 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,240991#msg-240991</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,240991#msg-240991</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ My MakerFarm Prusa i3 8" printing:<br />
<br />
[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t07Aoq1eJoM" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
I've updated my printer with latest Marlin firmware and did some updates. Attached is the source code.<br />
<br />
1) X axis direction corrected: Now the 0 position starts on left as usual.<br />
<br />
2) PID enabled for Bed and Magma 0.4. During all the print, the extruder temp has a max deviation of 0.2ºC (for 230ºC, it keep in range of 229.8º and 230.2ºC).<br />
<br />
3) The Extruder cooler runs only when hotend temperature is over 50ºC. This makes less noise and helps the bed warming (since the cooler cools the bed as well). The cooler speed was reduced to 50%... then it makes less noise, less bed cooling and still works fine to avoid magma clogging.<br />
<br />
You will need to small hardware changes:<br />
<br />
1) The X endstop is now connected to X_MAX instead of X_MIN, since this sensor becomes the max position sensor (X = 200)<br />
<br />
2) The extruder fan is connected to D9 port (between bed and extruder heaters). This port is configured to send a 50% duty cycle PWM when hotend temp is over 50ºC<br />
<br />
Check a HD video I'm printing a Spool Support at double regular speed:<br />
[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t07Aoq1eJoM" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
Now I'm porting an Auto Bed Leveling feature to Marlin. This feature makes the printer capable of adapt itself to a not level bed.. I mean, you can rise on side of the bed 1mm and the software will compensate such issue and the print will be fine.<br />
<br />
BTW, guys here in Brazil are using PVC pipe glue over the bed... it creates a vinyl film that sticks the ABS like a hell!! And the print just pop off when cooled. You don't even need a heated bed with this glue..]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AlexBorro</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Aug 2013 13:27:13 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,239268#msg-239268</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,239268#msg-239268</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Update to all.. I eneded up getting PLA to work with the magma hot end, but not without some modification. <br />
<br />
I replaced the stainless piece with a machined PEEK piece. Since I will only really be printing PLA I don't think the temperatures will be an issue. I can't say I have much testing done other than a basic print on it but I did accidently leave the printer at 185deg C for around 6 hours without printing and the printer resumed extrusion without any issues.<br />
<br />
I'll keep you guys posted.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dankarofl</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 24 Aug 2013 14:54:46 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,239088#msg-239088</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,239088#msg-239088</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm having a hard time printing ABS with this Magma End. Its cooler blows too much air enough to cools the print and bed, then warpings show up.<br />
To be honest, I have ordered a new hotend, I'm just waiting it knock my door so I can put this magma aside.<br />
<br />
Best Regards.<br />
<br />
Alex.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AlexBorro</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 24 Aug 2013 01:38:12 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238500#msg-238500</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238500#msg-238500</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ My 8" printer arrived today. I'll be busy over the weekend putting it together. However, I will have to wait until I can get some ABS to do some actual printing.<br />
<br />
Old Man Emu]]></description>
            <dc:creator>old man emu</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 22 Aug 2013 09:48:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238180#msg-238180</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238180#msg-238180</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @vegasloki<br />
<br />
Thank you very much for the reply. I would still need a fan blowing on the j-head correct? <br />
<br />
The only experience I have with 3d printing is using/maintaining a makerbot rep2, which prints exclusively in PLA. The hot end design is silimar to the magma, but uses an aluminum block on the cold end... with a huge heat sink and 40mm fan blowing directly in. After messing with my own I can see why it's there. <br />
<br />
I would really like to use PLA, because I will be printing indoors. I hear burning ABS is toxic, or something.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dankarofl</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 21 Aug 2013 07:52:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238080#msg-238080</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238080#msg-238080</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ dankarofl Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
&gt; Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a<br />
&gt; successful print out of it. I'm using PLA and the<br />
&gt; magma hot end. The first layer isn't sticking to<br />
&gt; the bed well, then extrusion kinda just stops. The<br />
&gt; filament ends up getting stuck in the upper<br />
&gt; portion of the extruder, and requires disassembly<br />
&gt; to be able to yank it out hard enough. This is<br />
&gt; with a 190* extruder temp and 60* bed. I haven't<br />
&gt; tried ABS yet... but does anyone have any<br />
&gt; suggestions?<br />
<br />
Start with the tried and true J-Head to get your head around what is required to print.  it's not the sexiest piece of gear but it gets the job done.  PLA has been problematic with other all metal hot ends besides the Magma.  JollyGrimReaper has a lined version that is designed to make printing PLA more reliable.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>vegasloki</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 20 Aug 2013 23:56:27 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238031#msg-238031</guid>
            <title>Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,199434,238031#msg-238031</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ 1) The RAMPS 1.4 has 2 power inputs: One for the heated bed (fused at 11A) and other one for the remaining electronics (fused at 5A).<br />
So you need to supply BOTH inputs... you can use 2 pairs of yellow-black wires or jump one input to the other.<br />
<br />
If you are gonna use a ATX PS, go for 2 pairs of supply...<br />
<br />
2) Actually is not the RAMPS, but the arduino board underneath it... RAMPS send the input power to Arduino (from 6V to 20V) and this supply RAMPS with logic 5V. The heaters and step drivers are supplied with both 12V (to motors) and 5V (logic).<br />
<br />
Best Regards.<br />
<br />
Alex.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AlexBorro</dc:creator>
            <category>General Mendel Topics</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 20 Aug 2013 20:13:51 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
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