Here is my Prusa i3 ! Hello! Here are a few pictures of my newly built Prusa i3. I configured it and buit it from the sources on the Github repository (https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3). I am amazed how everything did fit together! The only part which I had to modify is the support of the X idler which was to short when using a 608ZZ bearing. Anyway, I will be changing the idler pulleys when I get smaller bearings. A big thanks to the community for sharing the design! [img]http://www.fleurey.com/weblogs/franck/images/3D/Prusai3/small/img_0001_01.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.fleurey.com/weblogs/franck/images/3D/Prusai3/small/img_0001.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.fleurey.com/weblogs/franck/images/3D/Prusai3/small/img_0002.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.fleurey.com/weblogs/franck/images/3D/Prusai3/small/img_0003.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.fleurey.com/weblogs/franck/images/3D/Prusai3/small/img_0004.jpg[/img] Here is a vidéo of it printing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lcjRQKjc3I I have not yet mounted the heated bed and I have only been printing PLA on blue (or actually purple) tape. I am already impressed by the quality of the prints! Cheers! Franck https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,224451#msg-224451 Wed, 07 Oct 2026 05:42:48 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,861402#msg-861402 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,861402#msg-861402
Quote
LT72884
I know its been a FAT minute since this thead started, but since i am JUST learning about 3d printing, does anyone hae a current BOM list? i want to build the box frame just like this gentleman did. This is strictly for a project. I own a CR10, but want to build my own. I dont need the best of the best parts:). I am also looking for a tutorial on how to put the box frame and printer completly together, including the firmware setup and etc. thanks

thanks

Hey, a bit of a late reply from myself, but the link is right there in the original post:
[github.com]

Then see the box frame folder in that github. The rest should all be clear just by googlinh a bit.

Here is some more info with a BOM:
[reprap.org]

And for someone sharing their personal BOM:
[reprap.org]]]> Ohmarinus General Mendel Topics Sat, 26 Oct 2019 05:51:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,859648#msg-859648 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,859648#msg-859648
thanks]]> LT72884 General Mendel Topics Sat, 21 Sep 2019 12:21:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,563275#msg-563275 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,563275#msg-563275
i'm going to build dual extrusion FDM Printer.
what's the firmware i have to use ?
what's software application that support dual colors with extension of solidworks(.AMF)?

Hint: my electronic board is RAMPS

Thanks]]> AhmedAdel General Mendel Topics Sun, 27 Sep 2015 11:19:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,563274#msg-563274 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,563274#msg-563274
i'm going to build dual extrusion FDM Printer.
what's the firmware i have to use ?
what's software application that support dual colors with extension of solidworks(.AMF)?

Hint: my electronic board is RAMPS

Thanks]]> AhmedAdel General Mendel Topics Sun, 27 Sep 2015 11:19:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,557396#msg-557396 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,557396#msg-557396 ddutch General Mendel Topics Sat, 12 Sep 2015 13:02:29 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,511911#msg-511911 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,511911#msg-511911 Could you help me please ?]]> hadi General Mendel Topics Thu, 21 May 2015 15:30:25 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,335706#msg-335706 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,335706#msg-335706 electronics]]> prasanapurple General Mendel Topics Sat, 05 Apr 2014 22:29:18 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,312999#msg-312999 Re: Now with dual extrusion! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,312999#msg-312999 I'm a 15 year old from Mumbai, India. Would it be possible for you to help me with the dual extrusion part? I've made many repraps with single extrusion. I want to try dual extrusion. Was unable to find any proper documentation for the same. Have you documented anywhere? If yes, please share the link with me. Otherwise, would it be possible for you to share the details with me? Really looking forward to hearing from you! Thanks in advance!
You can reply to me here : [www.angadmakes.com] I try not to disclose my email address on the internet.

About me: [www.youtube.com]

Thanks franck. Looking forward to hearing from you!]]> Angad General Mendel Topics Wed, 19 Feb 2014 09:13:32 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,265555#msg-265555 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,265555#msg-265555
The stl files are converted to gcode with programs like Silc3r or Cura. The gcode is sent to the printer by a program like Pronterface. The stl files are created by a CAD program like OpenCAD or SolidWorks.

Did one of those answer the question?]]> uncle_bob General Mendel Topics Mon, 11 Nov 2013 18:08:10 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,265024#msg-265024 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,265024#msg-265024 ellobbo General Mendel Topics Sun, 10 Nov 2013 14:16:44 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,256033#msg-256033 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,256033#msg-256033
I am finding some dimensions of your nice printer. Are you using classic 214x214 heatbed? it looks bigger compared to my prusa i3 with ordinary metal frame. My frame looks narrower.Can you send me some dimensions of your box ?

Thank you

TM]]> timemaster General Mendel Topics Thu, 17 Oct 2013 17:33:32 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250309#msg-250309 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250309#msg-250309 -------------------------------------------------------
> Anyway, do you recommend changing all the 3mm
> holes in the Prusa i3 frame and y carriage to
> 2.5mm or just some of them?

On my builds I thread the Z mounts to the plate, the extronics mounts and on the bed I've done both threaded and through and can't say which is easier to level. Once I level these days it's pretty much set it and forget it. I was working on a bearing holder for the single plate print bed (box version has one) but use zip ties right now. I've also got a .dxf for a three point print bed that makes it a bit easier to level the bed. You can also drill all the holes to 3.5 mm and use M3 hardware and not have to cahnge any printed parts. I've supplied a couple dozen that way to people that didn't want to tap but could drill. The big holes on the bottom are for the motor cables and the small holes can either be zip tied through for cable management or threaded for the use of cable guide/ clip from Panduit and others.


As for the pattern on the electronics mount RAMPS bolts right up, Prusa has a RAMBo adapter and when I get my Brainwave boards finished (I had some boards printed and will build some for myself) I'll figure out a way to mount those.]]> vegasloki General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 23:42:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250272#msg-250272 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250272#msg-250272 Will do! We have a class running this weekend and I will post corrected docs after that.

GEEKADELPHIA ARTICLE


]]> johna136 General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 18:50:12 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250250#msg-250250 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250250#msg-250250
Please link to your BOM and some detailed pictures after your next round of classes.]]> mattmc General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 18:03:25 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250243#msg-250243 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250243#msg-250243 4 Holes on Y axis in the corner should NOT be threaded on the latest version. This makes it easier to level the bed. Our first one is threaded and has springs between the HBP and plate, the new one just sits the corner bolts in the holes. (I know this sounds wrong but it is not).

The bottom frame holes are not threaded and we use those for Zip Ties for wiring.

Holes along the side of the linear bearing mounts are for Zip Ties like you noted.



]]> johna136 General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 17:53:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250198#msg-250198 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250198#msg-250198
Yes, I know I need to make the threaded holes to 2.5mm for threading, but in looking at the build pictures it is hard to tell what is and is not threaded.

I know the two Z ends (top and bottom on each side) should be threaded.
I know that the Ramps mounting holes should be threaded.

On the Y carriage,, I know that 2 holes on each side of the oblong hole (where the LM8UUs mount) DO NOT have to be threaded as they are for zip ties.
On the Y carriage, I would assume the 4 holes in the four corners are for mounting the heated bed, I would assume those would be threaded.
On the Y carriage, I would assume the Y belt holder is NOT threaded as there are nuts on the underside of the picture I am looking at.

So that just leaves just the 4 holes running along the bottom edge of the main frame, (between the two z motors) what are those for and do they need to be threaded?

Please let me know if any of the assumptions above are wrong!

thanks.]]> mattmc General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 15:56:20 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250186#msg-250186 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250186#msg-250186 jaydmdigital General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 15:43:19 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250179#msg-250179 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250179#msg-250179
Well I asked the questions, so I am the one that started the hijacking. Hopefully Franck doesn't mind too much. I put it on this thread, because I like his extruder design and plan to use it and the e3d extruder, so I thought he would be a good source for info; and to keep it all in one place for future 3d enthusiasts getting started.

Anyway, do you recommend changing all the 3mm holes in the Prusa i3 frame and y carriage to 2.5mm or just some of them?]]> mattmc General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 15:26:45 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250141#msg-250141 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,250141#msg-250141
I didn't mean to threadjack Franck's thread for his good looking printer. Nice job. I wanted to share a bit on what it takes to make an aluminum single plate frame. Many have asked why it costs what it does. The answer is volume. One needs to be buying enough to get the cost down. I commit to a certain amount and have them shipped in batches. It's less expensive than getting small batches individually but not quite as inexpensive as getting the whole lot at once. Some are using Dibond which is a fantastic material and depending on where one is getting it cut, offers a less expensive alternative to aluminum. In the US if you are near an industrial supplier or have a larger contractor 1/4" AL can be less expensive per sq ft than Dibond.

As for the cutting there are many places that will do low power CO2 laser, some with machines big enough to do Dibond but as a rule they don't cut anything with metal. (like Pollolu for example). I started selling the plate kits back in Jan after having sold rods and hardware since about this time last year (and still do). My intent was to see about using a hi def air or oxy plasma and upgrade my current facility from handheld plasma to a Torchmate or Plasmacam table as I do other fab work as well, primarily motorsports fabrication. My contact at Hypertherm, my current plasma equipment vendor, showed me what it took to cut AL and the machinery required was beyond air/oxy plasma and beyond my means. That meant waterjet. Expensive in small batch but once you get going in quantity it becomes more reasonable. On every quote commercial laser was more expensive than some of the waterjet contractors.

If you are on a budget or simply wish to spend as little as possible a box frame like Franck made or one of the inexpensive sgraber wooden plate frames is a great way to go.]]> vegasloki General Mendel Topics Mon, 30 Sep 2013 14:18:35 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249874#msg-249874 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249874#msg-249874
Tapping is not a problem as we do it at work everyday.

This is definitely not a hobby printer! My vendor has a $250,000+ laser table that will cut 1/2" steel and takes up 500+ sq feet of shop space. He can definitely handle the job, he just may not be willing to since he is really busy. It is quite a sight to see in action. Wish I had one.

Your pricing for finished and tapped is $100, unfinished and untapped for $50 or $60?

What would shipping be to the US? Not sure where you are located.]]> mattmc General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 18:55:27 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249872#msg-249872 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249872#msg-249872 There you go! Another source for people to get these frames.]]> johna136 General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 18:49:12 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249852#msg-249852 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249852#msg-249852 -------------------------------------------------------
> There are several vendors around
> here with the frames. Sometimes on these
> knockoffs the holes are not threaded or may not
> line up with standard electronics boards.


If you use the .dxf in Prusa's Github the dims are spot on. The only issue with those drawings is that they have the holes at 3 mm diameter and to properly tap an M3-.5 thread the hole needs to be 2.5 mm. The big holes will tap but the tolerance is loose. The smaller hole is much better. I've used about half a dozen for my printers and have sold another couple hundred. The first batches I didn't finish the surface or tap them to keep the costs low though I was been tapping the holes on request for an extra charge. Unfinished and untapped saves US$40-50 for those that can do it themselves. The parts are cut on a Flow Mach 3 XD out of 6061-T6 .250 aluminum. I'll offer finished pieces for right around US$100 on the next batch as well as the current DIY piece. I'm seeing more people that want a printer but aren't fully into the maker scene yet who prefer a finished piece and would like to do as minimal assembly as possible to be able to print.

The CO2 lasers that most hobby users have won't cut 1/4" (6mm) AL. These days there are plenty of sources for parts so unless someone is having several cut it probably makes more sense to get one already cut and at least drilled.]]> vegasloki General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 17:41:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249773#msg-249773 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249773#msg-249773 There are several vendors around here with the frames. Sometimes on these knockoffs the holes are not threaded or may not line up with standard electronics boards.

For our classes, we went right to Joe Prusa for our frames, we had them all in less than a week and we know everything is right. Practically everything else we sources locally, but again, we went for quality stuff! You can spend anywhere from ~500.00 to 800.00 in parts to build an awesome i3. We know the stuff we use is all top shelf!



]]> johna136 General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 12:03:56 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249758#msg-249758 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249758#msg-249758
Quote

I had to re-print the idler holders for X and Y. The X one is the black plastic part which slides into the x-end. I think that the x-end for 624 bearings is also a bit different if you get it for 624 idler bearings but it worked with my original 608 x-end so I did not re-print it.

608 bearing is 8mm x 22mm x 7mm
624 bearing is 4 x 13 x 5

So can you explain why a 624 bearing is better than the 608?

Based on this picture (see attached) it does not appear the x idler bearing is adjustable like the y idler.

Are you just replacing the idler bearing with a smaller one or what does the change actually do? Sorry that I am not understanding why the change is needed. I am going to most likely have to get someone to do a custom print job for my printed parts since I am doing the Einstein variant with 10mm Y Axis, so if I need a new X axis, I might as well get the improved one printed.

Quote

2. On your direct drive extruder.

> I am in the US and I cannot seem to find a 5x10x5
> bearing (or even a 5x11x5) anywhere online. 5x10x4


Yes, actually, it was a mistake in my description, I am using a 5x10x4.

yeah, 5x10x4 is easy to find and I would rather stick with your tested extruder instead of trying to modify, thanks for clarifying....

Quote

Well, it is not only to be able to have a second piece of glass. It is actually quite convenient to be able to easily remove the built plate to remove the print, clean the plate, put some kapton tape on it, etc. I think that I would go with the alu mk3 bed since it give you all the options but if you are trying to minimize cost, the mk2 + glass is a well proven solution.

Are you using boro glass or something else? I am not against using the glass as I agree it would be nice to be able to clean and you can always replace broken glass much cheaper than the mk3. Maybe I need to find a new source for glass, but for $10 more for the mk3 vs mk2 + boro glass, it seems like a good deal to have 24 vdc option as well.

Also, do you have an insulator between your heated bed and y axis plate?

Quote
johna
We will post our BOM and manual after the class in case you are looking for a current list.

Yes, please post those and please let us know if this is a variant or where you are getting your RP from the prusa main branch or somewhere else.

Additionally, do have a source for the i3 single aluminum frame here in the US?

I have a guy I do business with that has a laser cutter, but he is really busy, and may or may not print it for me. So I am looking for an alternate source.

Thanks guys!]]> mattmc General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 10:22:22 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249720#msg-249720 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249720#msg-249720 For those who are about to build their own i3, my son and I are giving a class next weekend in Wilmington and will have 10 builders making their own printers in one weekend. We will post our BOM and manual after the class in case you are looking for a current list. We have built several ourselved to work out the kinks and they were printing all weekend at Maker Faire. The print quality from our Ultimaker and Prusas were identicle! We were printing tall/large prints all weekend out in the open with no problems! Even Joe Prusa himself was there and checked us out! He gave us a big "ThumbsUp" on our prints!

]]> johna136 General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 07:05:42 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249689#msg-249689 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249689#msg-249689
Thanks for your message.

> Now I do have a question. Can you tell me more
> about the dual extruder setup? Why did you choose
> to go with E3D all metal hot-ends? And what
> Extruder is that? Was the setup very different?
> Are you losing build volume with that setup?

Well, I was looking for an all metal hot-end to be able to print at any temperature and the E3D seemed like a good choice to me. I am no expert and I have not compared it to other metal hot-end but so far I can say that it is very well machined, it looks quite good and I never had a problem with it.

The extruder is my own design, it is available on Thingiverse, you can find more details about it on the Thingiverse page. The point of this extruder is to be compact and to have tight filament guides in order to be able to print flexible materials.

For the dual extruder setup, I am using the "standard" 80mm Prusa i3 x-carriage and I am not loosing any build volume compared to the single extruder version. The Prusa i3 box version is quite big so the is some spare room on the x axis. I am not sure about other versions.

Cheers,

Franck]]> franck General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 03:53:07 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249687#msg-249687 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249687#msg-249687
> 1. Modified Idler bearings
> I can't tell from your picture, did you have to
> reprint some parts? How does a 4mm bearing work
> with an 8mm X axis?

I had to re-print the idler holders for X and Y. The X one is the black plastic part which slides into the x-end. I think that the x-end for 624 bearings is also a bit different if you get it for 624 idler bearings but it worked with my original 608 x-end so I did not re-print it.

> 2. On your direct drive extruder. I was thinking
> about having someone print that for me when I
> order my Printed Parts.
>
> I am in the US and I cannot seem to find a 5x10x5
> bearing (or even a 5x11x5) anywhere online. 5x10x4
> does not seem to be a problem.
>
> So would the 5x10x4 work?

Yes, actually, it was a mistake in my description, I am using a 5x10x4.

> Or if I wanted to change to a more standard US
> size, would it be just a matter of changing the
> bearing shaft diameter and overall cavity on your
> idler arm in your thingiverse model or what would
> you recommend?

If the outer diameter of the idler is different, you should not only change the diameter but also move the center of the idler bearing to make sure that when the filament is loaded the center of the gears and center of the bearing are "horizontal". This way the contact with the filament squeezes it vertically down the hot-end.

> I am not a 3D cad expert, so I don't know how
> difficult that would be for me to modify prior to
> printing.

I am not an expert either, but with some patience it should not be difficult.

> 3. Looks like you are using the Mk2 bed from
> reprap.me. Did you consider the mk3 since a glass
> top is not required? I am wondering which route
> to go. Based on reprap.me pricing MK2 bed is $14 +
> boro glass is $25 (lulzbot) = $39, while mk3 bed
> is $50 and requires no glass.

I actually got my Mk2 from a local supplier and I did not know about the alu mk3 bed, it looks like a good option.

> I can't find much discussion on the mk3 with the
> prusa i3. I don't know if it is brand new or there
> is a reason not to use it? I like the idea of 24
> volt input on a bed, as I build industrial control
> panels and have a bunch of 24 vdc power supplies
> available.

I mostly print with PLA so I only heat my bed to 60°C which is no problem with 12V but whan printing with ABS, it takes about 10-15 min to heat the bed to 110°C. If you are planning to work a lot with ABS, I think that 24V is beneficial.

> I realize one advantage of having the glass would
> be a 2nd piece of glass would allow you to print
> another item while the first one cools, but other
> than that are the other reasons to use glass over
> an MK3 bed?

Well, it is not only to be able to have a second piece of glass. It is actually quite convenient to be able to easily remove the built plate to remove the print, clean the plate, put some kapton tape on it, etc. I think that I would go with the alu mk3 bed since it give you all the options but if you are trying to minimize cost, the mk2 + glass is a well proven solution.

Cheers!

Franck]]> franck General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 03:40:54 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249664#msg-249664 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249664#msg-249664
Now I do have a question. Can you tell me more about the dual extruder setup? Why did you choose to go with E3D all metal hot-ends? And what Extruder is that? Was the setup very different? Are you losing build volume with that setup?

Cheers!

Kirk]]> Cybermastif General Mendel Topics Sun, 29 Sep 2013 00:10:18 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249307#msg-249307 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,249307#msg-249307
Trying to get my BOM together for a Single Plate Prusa i3.

1. Modified Idler bearings

On your modifications, you said - -

Quote

Changed the idler bearings to 624Z bearings. It looks nicer and works better than with the 608Z and plastic guides.

608 bearing is 8mm x 22mm x 7mm
624 bearing is 4 x 13 x 5

I can't tell from your picture, did you have to reprint some parts? How does a 4mm bearing work with an 8mm X axis?

2. On your direct drive extruder. I was thinking about having someone print that for me when I order my Printed Parts.

I am in the US and I cannot seem to find a 5x10x5 bearing (or even a 5x11x5) anywhere online. 5x10x4 does not seem to be a problem.

So would the 5x10x4 work?

Or if I wanted to change to a more standard US size, would it be just a matter of changing the bearing shaft diameter and overall cavity on your idler arm in your thingiverse model or what would you recommend?

I am not a 3D cad expert, so I don't know how difficult that would be for me to modify prior to printing.

3. Looks like you are using the Mk2 bed from reprap.me. Did you consider the mk3 since a glass top is not required? I am wondering which route to go. Based on reprap.me pricing MK2 bed is $14 + boro glass is $25 (lulzbot) = $39, while mk3 bed is $50 and requires no glass.

I can't find much discussion on the mk3 with the prusa i3. I don't know if it is brand new or there is a reason not to use it? I like the idea of 24 volt input on a bed, as I build industrial control panels and have a bunch of 24 vdc power supplies available.

I realize one advantage of having the glass would be a 2nd piece of glass would allow you to print another item while the first one cools, but other than that are the other reasons to use glass over an MK3 bed?

thanks!]]> mattmc General Mendel Topics Fri, 27 Sep 2013 16:10:45 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,248019#msg-248019 Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?151,224451,248019#msg-248019 Went to the NY Maker Faire this weekend. I was surprised with how many Prusa i3 printers were there. We were printing with our 2 for 10 to 12 hours each day. Many 8" high prints! We have some pictures on our flickr site here:

botbuilder flickr pictures


]]> johna136 General Mendel Topics Mon, 23 Sep 2013 18:37:34 -0400