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        <title>Reprap Forum - Experimental and Hobby</title>
        <description>Building an electronic art project? Or a software radio? Think blue LEDs are cool? Are you a circuit bender? Discuss it here.</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?159</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2026 15:52:53 -0500</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,887796,887796#msg-887796</guid>
            <title>Heizbett mit selektiven Bereichen (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,887796,887796#msg-887796</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ hallo,<br />
<br />
ich bin dabei einen großen 3D Drucker mit 500x500mm Fläche zu bauen.<br />
Als Grundplatte habe ich eine 500x500mmx9mm große Fliese mit hochglanz Oberfläche die spiegelglatt ist ausgewählt.<br />
(Die zwei Schrittmotoren schaffen das Gewicht der Platte zu heben, kein Problem)<br />
<br />
Meine Idee ist nun per Leitsilber Heizkreise aufzubringen und nach bedarf zuschaltbar zu machen.<br />
Obendrauf soll dann eine 500x500 Glasplatte als Druckfläche.<br />
Hat jemand schon Erfahrungen mit Leitsilber oder funktioniert das nicht um die Platte auf 80 Grad zu bekommen?<br />
Wie würde sich die Fliese verhalten wenn nur ein Bereich geheizt wird?<br />
Würde die evt. springen?<br />
<br />
Habt Ihr Ideen dazu?<br />
<br />
Gruß,<br />
Wolfram.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mega-hz</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jan 2022 10:58:48 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,887225,887225#msg-887225</guid>
            <title>Hedgehogs 7+ 3D printer controller board (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,887225,887225#msg-887225</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yesterday while I was looking at some 3D printer boards missed a webinar called “How to help hedgehogs”. Somehow we do not do enough for environment and nature and decided that I can make one 3D printer controller board. For anyone who might be interested helping hedgehogs, a web site called <a href="https://www.hedgehogstreet.org/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Hedgehogstreet</a> has great practical resources.<br />
<br />
Intended features of Hedgehogs 7+ board:<br />
<br />
- 1 GHz application processor + 120 MHz motion control microcontroller<br />
- 7 TMC2209 stepper drivers<br />
- 3 heater channels – 1 bed + 2 extruder heaters<br />
- 2 fans<br />
- 4 analog inputs for thermistors<br />
- CAN bus and GPIO expansion<br />
- Dual band 2.4 GHz and 5GHz WiFi connectivity<br />
- 10BASE-T or 100BASE-TX Ethernet interface<br />
- LVDS interface for connecting LCD screens including from old laptops etc.<br />
- Touch screen controller<br />
- Audio interfaces: microphone, 2x5W audio amplifier<br />
- FM radio<br />
- Software support for <a href="https://marlinfw.org/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Marlin</a>, <a href="https://www.repetier.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Repetier</a>, <a href="https://www.klipper3d.org/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Klipper</a>, <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware" target="_blank" >Reprap</a> … firmware as well as <a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/c/DuetWebControl" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Duet Web Control</a>, <a href="https://www.repetier-server.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Repetier Server</a>, <a href="https://octoprint.org/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">OctoPrint</a> etc.<br />
<br />
The board is intended to be open-source and nonprofit project. Hope more people could get involved and help organizations like <a href="https://www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">British Hedgehog Preservation Society</a>.<br />
<br />
Please let me know if you have any feature recommendations or suggestions.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dev00</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 26 Nov 2021 04:31:56 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886854,887027#msg-887027</guid>
            <title>Re: Is it possible to replace a ceramic capacitor with two electrolytic capacitors in this configuration? (-1 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886854,887027#msg-887027</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yes, you can. Each 470uF capacitor can be replaced by two 940 uF electrolytics in series, with either their anodes or cathodes tied together. It doesn't matter which, as long as you don't tie them anode to cathode, in which case you just get a smaller valued, higher voltage, polarized cap. If tied anode to anode, or cathode to cathode, you willl end up with a non-polarized cap of one half the capacitance value of the total , and twice the voltage rating (if the caps are of equal value in both regards).<br />
<br />
You make no mention of temperature, ripple current, or other details, so must take those into acount when doing this.<br />
<br />
If the final capacitance value is not critical, two 1000 uF capacitors in series will result in a 500 uF capacitor, with a working voltage twice that of each individual capacitor. You can fine tune the final cap value by using non-equal values of capacitance, but the smaller of the two will take more of the voltage stress.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>rq3</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,887016,887016#msg-887016</guid>
            <title>more modular 3d/CNC controller concept (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,887016,887016#msg-887016</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello everyone,<br />
after my more or less failed lpc1768 3d controller board ("https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,876626") which doesn't wanted to work, but after a long time I found out why: I needed to keep the bootloader entry pin high during the entire flashing instead of pushing the button and releasing it. But this board is now declared dead by me and no further development will be made because: 1. Chips shortage makes it hard to find certain chips and parts. 2. RepRapFirmware will stop supporting the lpc1768.<br />
But I decided to make an other board, more modular. It ist more of a line or system of boards. The MCU is on its seperate daughterboard, so upgrading or custom boards for specific or boards with support for stepperdriver in stepstick format found on the PrntrBoardV2 (or boards with integrated stepper driver or just boards with screw terminals an optocoupler for big external stepper driver are also posible).<br />
The board found in my github is more of a concept, an example. It shows a version for four stepper and three mosfets found in a normal 3d printer. The connector for the daughterboard has the folowing system: the first 2x2 pins are for power. The daughterboard get from motherboard VDD, 5V and ground. 3.3V will be generated by the daughterboard, if it is needed by the daughterboard. The daughterboard itself provide the logiclevel power back to the motherboard (normaly 5V or 3.3V). The next 2x2 pins are SPI. The next 3x2 pins are endstops. And at last there are groups of 3x2 pins for the stepperdriver and mosfets. These pins are stepperdriver movment signals, a signal pin for the mosfet and two pins for the serial connection, where one pin also is the chip select for spi, if the stepper driver use spi instead of serial. This can go up to 6 steppers/mosfets, which means, this connector would go up to 50 pins. Above this a second connector is needed or ribbon cables (because the connector would be really big), but that is not final.<br />
Currently I'm thinking of adding i2c. And another idea would be to make a separet pin for the chip select combined with an extra pin for a thermistor, so that for each stepper/mosfet/thermistor are 4x2 pins.<br />
What are your opinions?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DocRaptor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 15 Nov 2021 14:47:52 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886854,886901#msg-886901</guid>
            <title>Re: Is it possible to replace a ceramic capacitor with two electrolytic capacitors in this configuration? (-1 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886854,886901#msg-886901</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ No, that won't work. But you can get non-polarised electrolytic capacitors.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886854,886859#msg-886859</guid>
            <title>Re: Is it possible to replace a ceramic capacitor with two electrolytic capacitors in this configuration? (-1 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886854,886859#msg-886859</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This forum is more for reprap related electronics<br />
You would be better off asking in something like [<a href="https://discord.gg/WydDuDU" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">discord.gg</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dust</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886639,886646#msg-886646</guid>
            <title>Re: What is the temperature range of OP97 precision op-amp? (-1 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,886639,886646#msg-886646</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Read the data sheet. If it's a real OP97 from Analog Devices, it has an operational temperature range of -55C to +125C for the military version, and +85C for the industrial version.<br />
<br />
Whether the resistors need to be matched really depends upon the intent of the circuit. General purpose low frequency gain, like an audio application, probably not.<br />
If it's amplifying, say a platinum RTD sensor and feeding a 22 bit ADC, then most definitely. But in that case, an OP97 would be my last choice. It's noisy, has pretty poor offset specs, and limited output swing.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>rq3</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,881208,881208#msg-881208</guid>
            <title>tmc2209 compatible with BTT SKR 1.4 (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,881208,881208#msg-881208</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I know that I should just remove the diag pin to get end stop working. I just hate the idea.<br />
<br />
As end stop is triggered, the signal pin is connected to ground. Now I'm thinking designing same kind of stepper driver module as BTT has done, but the diag pin would be open drain or collector. Quite an easy design change.<br />
<br />
Would I get head crash detection, Z probe and limit switch on my Z-axis if I designed that kind of module? I'll be using reprap firmware.<br />
Electrically that would be trigger =  NOT (diag AND probe AND limit) as any device can pull down it then.<br />
<br />
Is this a stupid idea?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Vuokko</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 04 Feb 2021 19:11:23 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,880457,880457#msg-880457</guid>
            <title>3D printer controller board for external microcontroller and development (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,880457,880457#msg-880457</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone, I designed a board, which is more of break-out-board than controller. It has two 40 pin connectors (2x20 pin rows) (and a 2 pin header from the power input), so that ide cables can be used to connect it to a mcu (or to plug in board with a mcu on it). It can be used for developing your own boards. It is not tested now.<br />
It has a lm2575, so it can handle 36v.<br />
Everything is trough-hole (exept the 3.3v regulator)<br />
1K resistors for TMC UART.<br />
Mini ato fuse holder.<br />
Four sockets for stepper drivers.<br />
Three mosfet.<br />
Six endstop headers<br />
Two thermistor headers<br />
headers for extra IO to be used for more steppers, mosfets, thermistors and more.<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://github.com/Doc-Raptor/Dragon-3D-Controller-Breakout-board" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">github.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DocRaptor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Jan 2021 15:39:14 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,876626,876626#msg-876626</guid>
            <title>Board with LPC1768 and five tmc2209 (6 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,876626,876626#msg-876626</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone,<br />
after my first design (https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867970), which is running in some of my printers, I started a new design base on a lot of parts from my first design (Powerregulators and Mosfets, these worked fine), but this time I gona use the LPC1768 instead of the STM32F103, even so I really like the STM32F103, but Marlin starts to annoying me. Marlin needs to be recompiled for every change on the printer. So I decided to made a new version with the LPC1768, because it is supported by most firmwares (Marlin, RepRapFirmware, Smoothiware), but also I put five tmc2209 on the board.<br />
EXP3 and the SPI-Header can be used for an ESP8266 module for wlan in RepRapFirmware, but I don't know if these are enough pins (and the correct pins) or the EXP1 and EXP2 header also needed to be used. I uploaded the files to my Github (https://github.com/Doc-Raptor/dragon_controller_v2) with the schematic in pdf form so you can see it and maybe even give some feedback. The PCB-Layout is in the working so it is better just to look at the schematic.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DocRaptor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2021 05:56:35 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,873752,873752#msg-873752</guid>
            <title>Power Supply Help (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,873752,873752#msg-873752</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I hope that this is the right place for this. If not, apologies, and please tell me where to go. :D I'm collecting things to build ... a few other things... and I stumbled across a couple really nice power supplies. I think that they're good, but misconfigured. I have a possibly strange hope that someone here is familiar with these units and can offer some advice.I have contacted the manufacturer's tech support team, but I'm impatientand I believe in casting a wide net. <br />
<br />
My intended uses are pretty mundane: a router and a printer. The power supplies, if they actually work, are pretty spiffy.<br />
<br />
What I stumbled into is a pair of Excelsys UltiMod UX6 setups with 5v, 12v, &amp; 24v PowerMods. More detail on them:<br />
Each unit has these powermods installed:<br />
- slot A: XgB<br />
- slot B: XgH<br />
- slot E: Xg3<br />
- slot F: Xg3<br />
<br />
The two XG3 units are set up in series, which the manufacturer says turns them into a 480 watt, 24v supply. Neat.<br />
<br />
The dip switches on each PowerMod apear to be set in as factory default, and there is a close fitting rectangle of kapton tape on most of the switches. Switch 1 is on, and switch 2 is off.<br />
<br />
The problem is that I'm not getting any DC power out. <br />
<br />
When I have the units connected to mains power (AC 112-118V, hovering near 60 Hz), I observe: <br />
The LED next to J2 with the AC symbol next to it is on and green.<br />
None of the LEDs on the PowerMods come on.<br />
I get ~10v at each of the connectors to the PowerMods. <br />
The fans are on and kind of loud.<br />
I don’t have any cabling connected to the unit except for the cord that I use to plug into mains. <br />
There are no jumpers on any of the PowerMods that appear to have a spot for a jumper, and I haven’t attempted to short across those pins with a jumper…<br />
<br />
I doubt that the Powermods are bad, but I don’t know how to test that. I've read the very short manuals and understand some of what I read. I think that I’m missing something that would be obvious to someone who knows the product. <br />
<br />
Aside from "Your PowerMods are shot, does anyone have any insights as to why I might not be getting power out if the mods are getting power in?<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
-A]]></description>
            <dc:creator>bagelwoof</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:41:02 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867970,867970#msg-867970</guid>
            <title>Anet 32-bit Replacement board design (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867970,867970#msg-867970</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi,<br />
I currently design some boards (one of them is this here: [<a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867726" target="_blank" >reprap.org</a>]) and one of them is a 32bit replacement-board for anet style printers. It has a stm32f103ret and socketed driver. It will mostly a drop-in replacement for the old board on anet printers and with custom mounts and enough space also for other printers with an 8-bit board. In the moment I work on the pcb-layout but I upload the schematic in pdf form, so that you guys and girl see it and see if I have overlooked something.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DocRaptor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 25 Feb 2020 19:05:36 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867809,867809#msg-867809</guid>
            <title>Need Help: Choosing the heat resistor for 510x510 bed (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867809,867809#msg-867809</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi !<br />
<br />
I have designed a 510x510 3D printer, and would like to add it a heating bed using resistor.<br />
My bed is an aluminum plate of 510x510mm and 5mm height.<br />
I plan using something like that : <a href="https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32847377601.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6e923ba4e05G5w&amp;algo_pvid=8155e398-e628-42b4-8722-66dedfd16cae&amp;algo_expid=8155e398-e628-42b4-8722-66dedfd16cae-1&amp;btsid=0b0a187915821251653811176ebf85&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">link</a><br />
<br />
But i have no idea of which one to choose (how much Watts) and how much resistors i should use ?<br />
I would appreciate any advice or feedback :)<br />
<br />
(This i my first post, i hope it's at the right place)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Alex94</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Feb 2020 10:24:19 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867726,867726#msg-867726</guid>
            <title>Need Help: Choosing the rigth stepper driver (tmc) for a low cost 32-bit board design (5 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,867726,867726#msg-867726</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone,<br />
I am designing a low cost 32-bit board. It will have the atsam3x8e to be programmable with the arduino IDE without the need of "plugins" unlike the stm32f103. It also should be usable with the marlin-firmware and the reprapfirmware. It will have four stepper driver on board (should be expandable to three more to run potentially an idex corexy printer). Now there is a problem. I want to use the stepper driver from trinamic, but I don't know witch one. 2160 and 5160 are out, they need external mosfets. This is not bad for big steppers, but extra mosfets cost extra and need extra space on the board. The 2130 is not compatible with the reprapfirmware, so it is out. That leaves the 2208, 2209, 2224 and 2660. The 2660 use spi, but it doesn't has stealthcop. The Ohters have steahlchop. The 2660 and 2009 have stallguard. The 2208, 2209 and 2224 uses UART. So the Choice is between the 2660 and 2209. On the 2209 four can run on one UART-Channel like in a bus. What I heard Marlin support it (Uart Bus style), but does it also the reprapfirmware support this style. What I saw it uses multiplexing. If they both support the "uart bus", it will need a second uart for the extra stepper, when more than four stepper are in the system. How to configure the frimwares? Or is there something like the 2209 with spi out there supported by both firmwares? Do you have any tips?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DocRaptor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Feb 2020 18:16:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,866538,866538#msg-866538</guid>
            <title>Test Board Designs (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,866538,866538#msg-866538</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi,<br />
I made for myself two testboard, one for the standart Pololu stepper driver and one for TMC stepper driver with SPI. I use them to test various stuff. They can be used to prototype. They have an switching 5v power regulator, which powers a linear 3.3v power regulator. They don't have a mcu on board, instead you hook any flavor of mcu you want (and test) with jumpers on it. For some of you they can be usefull, or not.<br />
There is a small error on the boards. I started to count the extruder stepper with the number one, not zero.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DocRaptor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 Jan 2020 08:14:08 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,862626,862626#msg-862626</guid>
            <title>SAM4S MINI board (10 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,862626,862626#msg-862626</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I intended to make a small 3D printer/CNC board with network connectivity from quite some time. The current version size: 82x60 mm:<br />
<br />
[attachment 113386 MINI_SAM4S.JPG]<br />
<br />
Features:<br />
- 4 Stepper motor divers<br />
- 2/3 Analog inputs (depending on network connectivity)<br />
- Analog or digital Z-probe support<br />
- 1 heated bed, 1 extruder, 1 fan control<br />
- Micro SD-card<br />
- I2C and I2S expansion ports<br />
- USB 2.0 interface<br />
- 4 End-stops including end-stops via current measuring on every stepper motor driver<br />
- Network connectivity: Ethernet (W5500 module) or WiFi (ESP8266)<br />
- 2 layer board, inexpensive to order (it might require applying additional solder on some power tracks and vias depending on desired current requirements)<br />
- Firmware: RepRap, Klipper<br />
<br />
This is intended as DIY project … It has not been tested yet. I ordered 10 PCBs from China have to wait probably a month to receive them. Do not really need so many if anyone is interested I can provide for free some bare PCBs for testing, fw development etc.<br />
<br />
The design files need some rework, cleaning etc. Any interest to make them publicly available ?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dev00</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2020 10:06:26 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,857561,857561#msg-857561</guid>
            <title>A controller board hybrid HACK?? 8-) (3 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,857561,857561#msg-857561</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello guys! <br />
<br />
I decided to start a board project to learn more about board designing and was like, why would I start schematics from scratch if I have this big database on the internet providing me with so many board schematics and boards?<br />
Especially if am doing a board for a very common FDM printer design and nothing is special. A RAMPS can operate it just fine I just want it to be a single board like Makerbase mks 1.4, capable of running tmc drivers instead of the A4899 and maybe switch to 24V instead of 12V . A 4 layer board is my objective.<br />
<br />
So I began digging and collecting some schematics and was wondering if it's possible to make a hybrid board out of a combination of selected sub-circuits or diagrams such as the temp sensing circuit from many different boards.<br />
<br />
The question I keep telling myself is what circuit should I choose? Why? what's the difference? How should I compare? <br />
<br />
I would appreciate it if you give me your thoughts on this or if you have any advice that could help me out.<br />
<br />
PS: I am no board designer so I was thinking that this is the shortest route or maybe a route "Hack" .<br />
<br />
Thanks you! :D]]></description>
            <dc:creator>xdarko</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2020 03:15:30 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,856778,856778#msg-856778</guid>
            <title>Custom board with tmc2130 (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,856778,856778#msg-856778</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have just finished poulating a custom 3D printer board. It hosts 5 TMC2130's and runs off of an ATMEGA2560. I am having a couple of issues that I thought i might get some help with on here. Basically the TMC 2130's are not working. I have them connected up and i am getting an SPI connection but no movement. I have checked the enable pin and it is behaving correctly. I have checked the step pin and as far as i can tell its pulsing (although im using a hand held VM so all i can see is the meter jumping when it should be stepping). Unfortunately i am getting no voltage change at any of the motor outputs and there seems to be no movement. Any assistance would be appreciated. I can provide more specifics if required.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jgo9410uk</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 20 Jul 2019 20:55:43 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,844729,844729#msg-844729</guid>
            <title>Anet A8 board fried... trying Ultimaker Einsy Retro (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,844729,844729#msg-844729</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I picked up anAnet A8 with what seemed to be a problem with the LCD blanking and showing square blocks at times. Then started having Z axis errors like constantly losing leveling and/or Z position.<br />
Now the board seems to be dead. No lights on the board after pushing the reset button.<br />
I purchased an Ultimsaker Einsy Retro board to replace the fried Anet board and there was no documentation in the box. I don't have an EE degree and can't figure out the schematics that I found online.<br />
<br />
I had purchased a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ while the A8 was still running the original board, to make it easier to use.<br />
I would like to install the Einsy board and Pi 3 and get the printer going again.<br />
<br />
I contacted Ultimachine for help and they basically sent me here.<br />
<br />
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>rickrack78</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Jan 2019 14:17:47 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,837127,837127#msg-837127</guid>
            <title>turntable G-code issue. (4 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,837127,837127#msg-837127</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm working on a turntable project which uses an M5Stack to communicate with an arduino 328 grbl controller using this code.<br />
<pre class="bbcode">
// Example for M5Stack StepMotor Module (I2C verison)
// 2018/6/27 JimmyLai
#include 
#include 

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:
  M5.begin();
  Wire.begin();
  Serial.begin(115200);
  m5.Lcd.setTextColor(WHITE, BLACK);
  m5.Lcd.setTextSize(2);
  m5.lcd.setBrightness(100);
  M5.Lcd.setCursor(4, 10);
  M5.Lcd.println("StepMotor Test: 0x70/0x71");
  M5.Lcd.setCursor(4, 30);
  M5.Lcd.println("Press A: 0x70");
  M5.Lcd.setCursor(4, 50);
  M5.Lcd.println("Press B: 0x71");
}

void SendByte(byte addr, byte b) {
  Wire.beginTransmission(addr);
  Wire.write(b);
  Wire.endTransmission();
}

void SendCommand(byte addr, char *c) {
  Wire.beginTransmission(addr);
  while ((*c) != 0) {
    Wire.write(*c);
    c++;
  }
  Wire.write(0x0d);
  Wire.write(0x0a);
  Wire.endTransmission();
}

void loop() {
  if (digitalRead(39) == LOW)  // A button
  {
    while (digitalRead(39) == LOW) delay(1);
    SendCommand(0x70, "G1 X0Y0Z200 F500");
    while (digitalRead(39) == HIGH) delay(1);
    SendCommand(0x70, "G1 X0Y0Z0 F0");
  

  }
  // Get Data from Module.
  Wire.requestFrom(0x70, 1);
  if (Wire.available() &gt; 0) {
    int u = Wire.read();
    if (u != 0) Serial.write(u);
  }
  Wire.requestFrom(0x71, 1);
  if (Wire.available() &gt; 0) {
    int u = Wire.read();
    if (u != 0) Serial.write(u);
  }
  delay(1);
  // Send Data to Module.
  while (Serial.available() &gt; 0) {
    int inByte = Serial.read();
    SendByte(0x70, inByte);
    SendByte(0x71, inByte);
  }
}</pre>
<br />
But I'm having trouble understanding the G-Code.<br />
<br />
What code to I need to send to get the turntable to turn 360 using a standered nema 17 motor?<br />
currently the code spins the nema 17 a few tuns and stops is causing it to humm.<br />
<br />
Can anyone give me some help and pointers please?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>GRAYWOLF</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 28 Oct 2018 13:05:19 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,831103,831103#msg-831103</guid>
            <title>Power panic board (13 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,831103,831103#msg-831103</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ have i misunderstood that someone has started production of these boards?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>boelle</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2019 09:14:14 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,829257,829257#msg-829257</guid>
            <title>RuRAMPS4D a new board for 3D printer and Arduino DUE (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,829257,829257#msg-829257</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ A new Board for 3D printer and arduino due from Russia. <br />
<a href="http://ruramps4d.ru" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">http://ruramps4d.ru</a><br />
The Board is already on sale and is shipped worldwide. Delivery is already included in the price.<br />
<b>Key board features:</b><br />
<ul><li> Possibility to use TMC2130 in SPI mode without wires. The SPI bus is already connected to the drivers on the PCB.</li><li> 12-26V DC power supply;</li><li> Number of installed drivers for form factor Pololu — 6;</li><li> The total number of outputs for connection to the load via the MOSFET — 7;</li><li> Outputs for connection of hotends— 3;</li><li> Low-power outputs for connection of controlled fans – 2;</li><li> Outputs for connection of Heated Bed or Chamber heater (powerful IRL1404 installed). When connecting 2 MK2b tables to one channel — cold) – you can connect large tables, two-zone table from Cheap3D, or several simultaneously;</li><li> Inputs for connection of thermistors – 5;</li><li> Outputs for servo connection – 2;</li><li> Possibility to connect external 5V power supply for servos;</li><li> A connector for connecting the wifi module ESP8266-01;</li><li>Ability to connect external 3.3 V power for WiFi module ESP8266;</li><li> EEPROM chip;</li><li> The displays the RepRap Discount Controller series connect to board without the adapter;<br /> Separate connector for MKS TFT and Nextion displays;</li><li> Optional amplifiers for connection of 2 K-type thermocouples are installed.</li></ul>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>svs072477</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 23 Jul 2018 11:33:56 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,829115,829115#msg-829115</guid>
            <title>Want to build a Ramps FD v2.3... is my BOM good enough? (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,829115,829115#msg-829115</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I downloaded the board files from here: [<a href="https://github.com/bobc/RAMPS-FD/tree/dev/RAMPS-FD" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">github.com</a>]<br />
<br />
while they are not tested yet i want to take the plunge and build at least one board for my current printer<br />
<br />
i have spent quite some time on getting a BOM together with mouser part numbers and prices<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RLnmdB46gqgr1EFkkU6c9ktHnhKonsIwyvMgGwauXlQ/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">docs.google.com</a>]<br />
<br />
<br />
i have used gold plated pins etc where it was possible to lower the contact resistance which is the enemy here<br />
<br />
for the big fets i picked one with as low ON resistance i could find, they cost more yes but run cooler<br />
<br />
i'm not so much after lower prices here, but more parts that are up to the task and then some extra<br />
<br />
<br />
suggestion for better parts that fit the same footprints  is what i'm after. <br />
<br />
keep it civil and constructive<br />
<br />
<br />
the board itself: if you can see clear errors etc please direct your comments to @bobc]]></description>
            <dc:creator>boelle</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 20 Jul 2018 15:28:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,828319,828319#msg-828319</guid>
            <title>What is the advantage of using a TMC4210 for the tmc2660 ? (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,828319,828319#msg-828319</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm looking to build a TMC2660 bob like board, but the official bob comes with the TMC4210 however the spi goes to both the 4210 and the 2660, can someone explain what is the advantage of having the 4210 there ? I mean why is the spi connected to both chips instead of just the 4210...<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/Eval_Documents/TMC4210_TMC2660_Eval_Manual.pdf" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.trinamic.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>khessels</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 13 Jul 2018 05:28:50 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,823130,823130#msg-823130</guid>
            <title>Building a 12x stepper driver controller need some help (5 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,823130,823130#msg-823130</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi people, i am building a water and nutrients controller for the vegetables i am growing in our green house, and is loosely based on the Ramps controller.<br />
<br />
It has to control 12 peristaltic pumps (<i><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QLhxtgqvU8" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">hose-pumps</a></i>), 1 <a href="https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/-/32850797284.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.76082e0euUOa7a" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">big one for water 1L/min</a> (18W), and 11 s<a href="https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/-/32851416660.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.76082e0euUOa7a" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">mall ones for nutrients 5ml/min</a> (&lt;10W)<br />
<br />
This is what i got so far whit what i can do, could someone over look my design, to see if everything would work the way it should?<br />
<br />
<div id="div_275f3ca22b05781b2ac8f7e5017364f9"
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        <img src="/forum/thumbcache/39b/944/536/940/214/126/96f/391/058/82c/45_800x400.png"
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<br />
here is <a href="https://ufile.io/f2ajc" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">the design file</a>, and use <a href="https://www.expresspcb.com/expresspcbplus/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this program</a> to draw it.<br />
<br />
What dose the board has to do.<br />
<ul><li>Control the 12 stepper controllers have to run 1 water pomp (18W @150rpm) and max 6 small pumps (&lt;10W @100RPM max), all whit 200 steps steppers.</li><li>Connected to com 2 will be a serial display.</li><li>To the analog pins will be connected two temp sensors, and two load cell's for pump calibration(1).</li><li>To the digital pins will be connected some relays to control some valves and to control other electrical equipment.</li><li>The relay is at the bottom is to cut power to the drivers.</li></ul>
(1) Calibration is done by placing 1KG (or 100g for the small pumps) weight in the 1L (or 100ml) container, measure the gross weight on the loadcell, remove the weight, and start pumping and counting the steps till the first measured gross weight, and calculate the needed steps to have 1L/min flow (or 100ml for nutrients  and multiply or dived for the needed amount)<br />
<br />
The questions that i have.<br />
<ul><li>Is the design solid, as this is my verry first circuit board design, and properly could still use some improvements.</li><li>Can i use a relay to cut main power to the drivers, as i read somewhere that cutting power could maybe destroy your Arduino, i want to do this because this is running 24/7, and i want to save power, as i don't need to keep power on the stepper to hold him in place, as i only need precise control when the pump is running, a couple of steps movement is irrelevant for my use, but maybe there is a other way to save power?</li><li>I wane use TMCxxxx drivers, from what i read, i like the TMC2208 the best, but is this the best for my use?</li></ul><br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>havor</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 24 May 2018 17:06:18 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,811966,811966#msg-811966</guid>
            <title>Need help designing a workshop lamp (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,811966,811966#msg-811966</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So I want to build a small and thin workshop lamp I could use when working on my car. The idea is to use multiple SMD LEDs so that the lamp is as thin as possible. I will print a base where the batteries are going to be and a flexible arm where I intend to put the LEDs so that it looks more or less like this:<br />
<div id="div_55c33d172209d549973b09f049f6bd04"
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             alt="tXaLmXT.png"
             title="tXaLmXT.png"/>
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    <div class="mod_embed_images_info " id="info_55c33d172209d549973b09f049f6bd04"
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<br />
<br />
However, I am having huge problems choosing the proper LEDs. My goal is about 600lm for at least 4 hours at 100% power while keeping the project as cheap as possible. <br />
<br />
As far as batteries are concerned I was thinking of using two 3,7V type 18650 batteries with the highest capacity I can find, so for example something like this: [<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GTF-4pcs-18650-3-7V-12000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-EU-Plug-Charger/1000004332402.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000013.4.475c65acOZWDEm&amp;traffic_analysisId=recommend_2088_2_90158_iswistore&amp;scm=1007.13339.90158.0&amp;pvid=315cc3fd-1aba-41c0-815b-9475ed195108&amp;tpp=1" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.aliexpress.com</a>]<br />
<br />
But what about the LEDs?<br />
If we assume that the information from the chinese vendors is correct, I could use something like this:<br />
[<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-SMD-LED-0-5-W-3V-150mA-50-55LM-White-2835-Chip-Ultra-Bright-Surface/32602400780.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.24.222e1ee7IXlWyM&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10320_10152_10321_10065_10151_10344_10068_10342_10547_10343_10322_10340_10341_10548_10193_10194_10084_10083_10618_10630_10304_10307_10302_5711211_10180_5722315_10313_10059_10184_10534_100031_10319_10103_10627_10626_10624_10623_10622_10186_5711315_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&amp;algo_expid=48248a8f-5b33-4276-97e0-e78e5301a829-3&amp;algo_pvid=48248a8f-5b33-4276-97e0-e78e5301a829&amp;priceBeautifyAB=0" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.aliexpress.com</a>]<br />
<br />
12 LEDs like this would result in about 600lm and the total current would be about 1800mA. If the actual capacity of the batteries above is anywhere near the nominal value two batteries would be more than enough to power the LEDs for a few hours.<br />
<br />
What do you think? Maybe there is a better choice of LEDs that yield more lm while having a lower power consumption.<br />
<br />
Now the second question: The voltage is going to vary according to the charge level of the battery (I guess between 3,5 and 4,2V). Is there a suitable voltage regulator I can use to make sure I get 3,2V accross the LEDs? Or should I use other batteries with higher voltage so that there is a bigger difference between the source and target voltages?<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help :)<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>icefire</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 25 Feb 2018 13:26:21 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,800363,800363#msg-800363</guid>
            <title>Using SPI only for stepper control (15 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,800363,800363#msg-800363</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ First off I'm not a control board designer but I'm thinking about a system, could we use more compact boards with less pins by using SPI/I2C to control steppers and read the inputs needed? It seems that if you remove the pin limitation on the atmega or the Due by taking advantage of the SPI/I2C buses you can control more sensors/devices. Why not use some ADS1115 for reading the temps and some CD74HC4067 or the likes to controller the stepper drivers. With the TMC2130 that support SPI, seems it's feasible. and allows for more steppers that a FDM printer would need for now.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>NforcerOH</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 09 Mar 2024 06:56:44 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,799310,799310#msg-799310</guid>
            <title>Power the blue LEDs separetely on this aquarium light? (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,799310,799310#msg-799310</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have a <a href="http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1/478580207/BeamsWork-LED-400-24-60cm-Super-Slim-LED-Aquarium-Light-font-b-Fish-b-font-Tank.jpg" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Beamswork LED aquarium light</a> like this. It has a 3 way switch:<br />
<br />
All LEDs off<br />
Blue LEDs on only<br />
White AND blue LEDs on<br />
It has a single mains power plug.<br />
<br />
What I want to do is make it have two mains wall plugs. I want one to power the blue LEDs all the time, always on.<br />
<br />
I want the 2nd plug to power the white LEDs only, and this will be plugged into a <a href="http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/neweys/images/site/products/large/044_1103_NE02_NL24HR7DDTS1_large.jpg" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">plug timer</a> like this, so the white LEDs will independently go on and off by time, while the blues stay on (because that will be plugged in separately - I hope).<br />
<br />
I opened the cover and found this:<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
The 2 black wires connected to the brown PCB is where the mains adapter plugs into. Then there are 3 blue-covered connectors which are connected to the 3 way switch. I don't know which ones control which colour as I didn't test it plugged in, but I think the white one is white LED, the middle one is power, the one I'm holding had a blue wire so probably blue LED. Is there a way to connect a 2nd mains plug to that blue LED connector (if it is that) so it powers separately? Drilling through the plastic to get a wire in is fine, but I don't know how what electric connectors or connections I need.<br />
<br />
I don't know much about electrics, first-time project! Thanks.<br />
<br />
EDIT: This is is the spec of the adapter FCE17-E09AD-240 :<a href="http://www.kynix.com/uploadfiles/pdf0125/FCE17-E09AD-240.pdf" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">http://www.kynix.com/uploadfiles/pdf0125/FCE17-E09AD-240.pdf</a><br />
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<br />
<br />
And here I have done a few tests:<br />
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<br />
<br />
Wire 1 controls the "blue ONLY" LEDs from the switch<br />
Wire 2 comes from the mains adapter<br />
Wire 3 controls the "white AND blue" LEDs from the switch<br />
Wire 4 goes to a metal thing on the LED board saying "Ground"<br />
If I disconnect wire 1 and put the switch into the "blue only" position, the blue LEDs don't come on. But if I put the switch into the "all on" position, the white AND blue LEDs do come on.<br />
<br />
If I disconnect wire 3 and put the switch into the "blue only" position, the blue LEDs do come on. But if I put the switch into the "all on" position, the white AND blue LEDs don't come on.<br />
<br />
I'm thinking of getting a second power adapter and a male connector to fit directly to wire 1 (so disconnecting wire 1 from the original switch above), so I can keep the blue LEDs always on. But I'm worried, since wire 3 turns on both the blue and white LEDs (even if wire 1 is disconnected), will this make the blue LEDs get double power and cause a problem?<br />
<br />
My goal in the end is to have the blue LEDs always on (because they will be powered separately from a new mains adapter) 24 hours a day. And the white LEDS (which also turn on the blue LEDs too) to be plugged into a plug timer and turn off at certain times of the day. Any suggestions?<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>vivitern</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 04 Dec 2017 08:54:39 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,795487,795487#msg-795487</guid>
            <title>New shield for arduino Due RURAMPS 4D (13 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,795487,795487#msg-795487</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi,<br />
I developed a new shield for arduino due RURAMPS4D.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/svs0724/ruramps4d-ramps-for-adruino-due-the-pilot-shipment-available-for-zack/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/svs0724/ruramps4d-ramps-for-adruino-due-the-pilot-shipment-available-for-zack/</a><br />
<br />
I tried different firmware, and on Mk4DUE 4.3.2 encountered a problem:<br />
The HotEnd0, controlled from pin 13 arduino, will not turn on. On other firmware everything works.<br />
<br />
Here is the pinout file of the board<br />
[attachment 99470 1410.h]<br />
<br />
Can anyone suggest what might be the problem?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>svs072477</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 13 Dec 2017 17:02:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,789492,789492#msg-789492</guid>
            <title>E-ink display (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?159,789492,789492#msg-789492</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just wondering if anyone has ever thought about using an e-ink display?  And what it would take for me to get it to work.  I know I would need to configure the firmware for it, by that meaning include the proper library for it and adjust some inputs.  But is that simple?  This just seems really appalling to me.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.   Thanks]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MakersMic</dc:creator>
            <category>Experimental and Hobby</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 23 Sep 2017 23:27:24 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
    </channel>
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