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        <title>Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
        <description>Hello,

I hope this question was not asked too often. I nearly got killed as I looked for alternatives on connecting extruded aluminium profiles. One connection is doubled of the cost for the profile so I am looking for cheap alternatives.
What did you use to connect your profiles?

Best regards,

Sven</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,601562#msg-601562</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 03:50:48 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,891624#msg-891624</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,891624#msg-891624</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Ed3D</strong><br />
@ the_digital_dentist<br />
<br />
How are you preventing rotation of the extrusion as you tighten the bolt using the method you show on the first page</div></blockquote>
<br />
Very little chance it will happen, for many reasons ; steel has less friction against aluminium than aluminium against aluminium ; surfaces are orders of magnitude away (but Amonton second law explains it has no influence...). The axial force is way higher than rotational force and friction force is proportional to pressure. Only a few threads are in contact with each others, forces are applied in such a way than torque become negligible etc.<br />
<br />
At worst, a very simple trick I was taught decades ago : if you don't want two surfaces to slip, just apply something that will prevent this to happen ! An old mechanic trick is to apply some abarsive between the two surfaces. Chalk is (was) very common for conical junctions (like flywheel/crankshaft : but don't do it, it makes it extremely difficult to take apart later !!! Could also be some grinding paste, like valve (fine) grinding paste, or some emery, or even a "gasket" made of sand paper. Sand paper is a well known trick of the trade that machinists have been using for ages when tightening parts of slighly dissimilar widths in a milling machine vice, for gang machining. Just some very fine sand mixed with some grease is enough to prevent any rotation (rotation that will never happen while tightening blind joints ; if it happens, it's because you didn't properly use the tap, or the tap is just an out of specs crap ; or the screws are themselves out of specs, or the ends are not flat...). Few people konw it : when torqing king a bolt (using a torque wrench), threads and screw head (or nut) have to be lubricated.<br />
<br />
Blind joints : maximize friction between the parts, and minimize friction between the threads, and between the screw head and the part. And that's it !<br />
<br />
I'm sure some abrasive toothpaste is more than enough ! (Pepsodent or Ultrabrite for example)<br />
<br />
Was thinking of this thread today, while assembling a frame on a metrology surface plate. Did it several times, attempting to make the parts rotating and slipping... The surface plate makes it easy to see if there's any movement between the parts No way ! Was unable to make anything rotate (while using Grower washers under the CHC screw heads, without lubricating threads and not using abrasive between the extrusions).]]></description>
            <dc:creator>yet-another-average-joe</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2023 18:07:06 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,887279#msg-887279</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,887279#msg-887279</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Lee ***</strong><br />
I would like to order 500mm of the following extrusion manufactured by MiSUMi Japan.<br />
<br />
EFS6-30300<br />
 <br />
[<a href="https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302687850/?HissuCode=EFS6-30300&amp;PNSearch=EFS6-30300&amp;KWSearch=EFS6-30300&amp;searchFlow=results2type" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">uk.misumi-ec.com</a>]<br />
<br />
MiSUMi will not sell this extrusion in the USA.   I need a supplier that can ship it to me in the U.S.A.<br />
<br />
If anyone knows of a supplier that can process this order for me it would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
slf</div></blockquote>
Try here<br />
[<a href="https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110310386819/?PNSearch=EFS6-30300&amp;HissuCode=EFS6-30300&amp;searchFlow=suggest2products&amp;Keyword=EFS6-30300" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">us.misumi-ec.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>wildone</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 29 Nov 2021 18:26:36 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,869146#msg-869146</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,869146#msg-869146</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sure- use short button head cap screws and t-nuts.  You'll have to drill a hole for tool access at each screw.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2020 07:46:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,869143#msg-869143</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,869143#msg-869143</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hijackin´ ye ole thread ......<br />
<br />
Is there a way to directly join t-slot extrusions back on back?<br />
<br />
I would like to connect two or more 15180 plates together to make something like 15360....cheap router main plate.<br />
off course I could fix it with some perpendicular bars holding them together, but I would love to do it back to back without anything sticking out of any side<br />
<br />
Thank you!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Yellobello</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2020 06:02:13 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,857058#msg-857058</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,857058#msg-857058</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hahaha :), Good idea thankyou]]></description>
            <dc:creator>tiyona</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 26 Jul 2019 02:43:50 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842834#msg-842834</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842834#msg-842834</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I might try laser cutting some acrylic corner brackets to hold them in place when tightening or even machining up a jig for it. I find even putting them on a flat surface they still kick up a bit but that may be because I’m using 5050 extrusion with self tapping trilobe screws that I find tend to jam and require a lot more torque.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ed3D</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Dec 2018 18:18:08 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842810#msg-842810</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842810#msg-842810</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Same.<br />
Milled brackets/plates do a similar job, but if you have a flat surface as described above, it would be easier. (Note: first connect the extrusions with the bracket, preferably on a flat surface. Then bolt the extrusions together.)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sudarshan</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Dec 2018 13:42:54 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842797#msg-842797</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842797#msg-842797</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just hold them down on a flat surface.  I suppose you could temporarily bolt them to a flat plate before tightening the end screws if you were worried about perfect alignment.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Dec 2018 12:49:27 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842749#msg-842749</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842749#msg-842749</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think you misunderstand. I make this blind joints quite often at work because of how rigid they are over the corner pieces but my issue that I seem to often have  is that when the bolt is tight it prevents twisting but when you are in the process of tightening it it quite often causes the extrusion to rotate causing it to be fixed at the wrong orientation.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ed3D</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Dec 2018 06:16:46 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842717#msg-842717</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842717#msg-842717</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Rotation is prevented by the force of the bolt. Friction in other words.<br />
You can use milled brackets to ensure no movement, along with the digital dentist’s method.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sudarshan</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Dec 2018 00:19:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842693#msg-842693</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,842693#msg-842693</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @ the_digital_dentist<br />
<br />
How are you preventing rotation of the extrusion as you tighten the bolt using the method you show on the first page]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ed3D</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 28 Dec 2018 16:26:21 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,837706#msg-837706</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,837706#msg-837706</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I would like to order 500mm of the following extrusion manufactured by MiSUMi Japan.<br />
<br />
EFS6-30300<br />
 <br />
[<a href="https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302687850/?HissuCode=EFS6-30300&amp;PNSearch=EFS6-30300&amp;KWSearch=EFS6-30300&amp;searchFlow=results2type" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">uk.misumi-ec.com</a>]<br />
<br />
MiSUMi will not sell this extrusion in the USA.   I need a supplier that can ship it to me in the U.S.A.<br />
<br />
If anyone knows of a supplier that can process this order for me it would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
slf]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Lee ***</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 04 Nov 2018 10:33:36 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,774970#msg-774970</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,774970#msg-774970</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>sudarshan</strong><br />
I have a welded iron cuboid that I got off as scrap from a local hardware store....they used it like a table(unable to post photos)...it's not very big but quite decent in size.but i guess I can get at least 35x35x35 volume out of it.....it does not wobble...<br />
However I am concerned that how will I be able to align my mechanism accordingly.<br />
<br />
My ideas.....shall I mill a metal plate for fixing a corexy mechanism (stacked belt) and attach it to the top and have the build plate on z axis (I guess I will use smooth rods for that to save money to buy profile guides for the xy movement and also to the fact that the cuboid does not have support shafts on sides)<br />
<br />
Please enlighten me on how to use it perfectly.....I am really impressed by its rigidity and does not wish to let it go waste.</div></blockquote>
<br />
[<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Mechanical_Rigidity" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">reprap.org</a>]<br />
<br />
minimum triple lead screws, minimum dual rails (or rods) for z and you'll do fine.  a metal plate sounds awesome and a lot less hassle, just make absolutely sure that the alignments are good.  when you get extrusion cut to length you can at least adjust it slightly through the fixings: in this case you don't have that option, and the cube is highly unlikely to be true-to-square.  so you'll need to take that into account when attaching the plate and the z mechanism.<br />
<br />
also i heard that aluminium and steel do not mix: some sort of chemical reaction that oxidises the aluminium extremely rapidly: a problem i learned of from a mechanic who was restoring an astom martin DB5.  something you should research carefully.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>lkcl</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 25 Jun 2017 21:37:40 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,773419#msg-773419</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,773419#msg-773419</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have a welded iron cuboid that I got off as scrap from a local hardware store....they used it like a table(unable to post photos)...it's not very big but quite decent in size.but i guess I can get at least 35x35x35 volume out of it.....it does not wobble...<br />
However I am concerned that how will I be able to align my mechanism accordingly.<br />
<br />
My ideas.....shall I mill a metal plate for fixing a corexy mechanism (stacked belt) and attach it to the top and have the build plate on z axis (I guess I will use smooth rods for that to save money to buy profile guides for the xy movement and also to the fact that the cuboid does not have support shafts on sides)<br />
<br />
Please enlighten me on how to use it perfectly.....I am really impressed by its rigidity and does not wish to let it go waste.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sudarshan</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Jun 2017 06:12:44 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,646568#msg-646568</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,646568#msg-646568</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <a href="http://www.makeralot.com/end-fastener-for-20mm-aluminum-extrusion-p224/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">End Fastener for 20mm Aluminum Extrusion</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anonymous User</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 30 Mar 2016 21:55:31 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,636040#msg-636040</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,636040#msg-636040</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ There are indeed a lot of aluminium parts. To be honest I would like to achieve a stable frame with only one sort 20x20mm to get the extrusions cheaper.<br />
Maybe I will get rid of one fan, but I am not sure if I achieve a suitable cooling. I think I will keep the design and replace one fan by a protection guard only so I can easily add a second fan if needed.<br />
<br />
The good side looking at the car accident: I like my newer car, but it was not easy to let the old car go as it was nearly 11 years part of my life. Luckily I found someone who thinks who can fix it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Treito</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 06 Mar 2016 10:49:14 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,636032#msg-636032</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,636032#msg-636032</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Wow!  It looks like a lot of aluminum parts to cut and screw together!  I guess easy and cheap duplication is no longer a high priority.<br />
<br />
To me it looks like using two fans to cool the extruders is a bit of overkill and unnecessarily increases the size and mass of the extruder assembly.  I suppose you can test it with one fan and if it works OK just reprint the fan mount.  It looks like one fan, mounted on the surface facing the viewer in the last image, could easily blow air across both hot-ends.<br />
<br />
It's too bad about the car and good that no one got hurt.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 06 Mar 2016 10:27:58 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635875#msg-635875</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635875#msg-635875</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So some words again from me.<br />
<br />
The drawer is indeed a really nice idea.<br />
I decided to keep at the Extrusion and I also decided not to safe too much money, but it will take some time. Last month I had a small car accident. Luckily no humans were hurt, but the car was old and therefore not repairable. Even though I did not caused the accident I had to spent some money for a new car so therefore the printer has to wait. By the way it is not fully designed.<br />
<br />
I will not use the connection with only one screw as this would be too much holes I would have to drill (I have some little problems with my hands). Maybe I will use the fast connectors, but I guess not. Somebody at the German Facebook group got Extrusions which weren't cut angled. I think I will use some brackets.<br />
<br />
I decided to use 20x20mm Extrusion. Before you say that is too weak please have a look at the current design. The hot-end will be changed. One fan will be flipped to allow a constant airflow and a third fan will be added.<br />
[attachment 73919 3D-Printer_V2v20_front.png]<br />
[attachment 73920 3D-Printer_V2v20_back.png]<br />
[attachment 73921 3D-Printer_V2v20_side.png]<br />
[attachment 73922 3D-Printer_V2v20_bottom.png]<br />
[attachment 73923 3D-Printer_V2v20_top.png]<br />
[attachment 73924 3D-Printer_V2v20_nozzle.png]<br />
<br />
Unfortunately I did not find a suitable push fit as step-file therefore the coloring is wrong.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Treito</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 06 Mar 2016 02:07:30 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635773#msg-635773</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635773#msg-635773</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>the_digital_dentist</strong><br />
I don't make money off of it.  I print stuff I need with it.</div></blockquote>
<br />
Well it's kind of the same, you save on what you would have paid for somebody else to make for you. And you have control over the process.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>realthor</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2016 16:43:33 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635750#msg-635750</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635750#msg-635750</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I don't make money off of it.  I print stuff I need with it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2016 15:44:04 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635662#msg-635662</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635662#msg-635662</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Lol it reminds me of the DCs I've been cabling (as an IT engineer one does a lot of work outside of the console but it has been most rewarding nevertheless). Cable management is crucial down the road when one has to chase issues. You wouldn't imagine what I could see over the years (<a href="http://cdn1.dottech.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/fail_wiring.jpg" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">hint</a>) (not my own picture, we were not allowed to go with phones in there).<br />
<br />
Anyway I hope you make enough money off that printer to be worth it the high quality components and the amount of work you've put in it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>realthor</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2016 12:31:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635649#msg-635649</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635649#msg-635649</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks!  It has been a lot of work...<br />
<br />
The folded strip at the back of the drawer keeps the cables from dragging on the table under the printer when the drawer is closed.  It has lots of holes so I can lash the cables to it using velcro tape strips that make it easy to make changes should the need arise.<br />
<br />
Here it is before wiring:<br />
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And here's what it looks like with cables in place:<br />
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<br />
<br />
The magnetic strip tape is sold as "matched pole" tape.  I found that its adhesive didn't bond well to the aluminum frame of the printer so I used contact cement to attach it and have had no further problems.  IRIC, I applied contact cement to the tape strips on the polycarbonate panels, too, just in case.  The tape is a little expensive, but is sure does simplify things.  The more you buy the cheaper it gets on a per meter basis.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2016 12:03:39 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635613#msg-635613</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635613#msg-635613</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You have something worth of displaying publicly allright :)<br />
Why do you need the sarrus linkage at the back of the drawer...is there where the cables are routed along to the inside of the printer/power outlet?<br />
<br />
I find the magnetic strip a neat idea.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>realthor</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2016 11:06:22 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635592#msg-635592</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,635592#msg-635592</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You don't want to create a hurricane, but running a small fan to keep the warm air circulating and blowing across the heater won't hurt.  I added such a system to a solidoodle printer at the makerspace recently.  I used a 208V fan but operate it at 117VAC so it turns relatively slowly and very quietly.  You could do the same with a DC fan- most 24V fans will start reliably and run a little slow and very quietly on 12V.<br />
<br />
I don't think drilling a second tool access hole weakens the extrusion enough to make any difference in its performance.  A lot of the stiffness comes from the outer parts of the extrusion.  The center tube isn't a very large part of the extrusion's cross sectional area.<br />
<br />
I enclosed my printer but kept everything accessible at the same time using two methods- the electronics are housed in a drawer at the bottom of the printer, and the side panels are attached using magnetic tape that seals almost air tight but allows easy removal just by pulling on them.  I even put the controls inside the drawer so if the machine is displayed publicly they are out of sight which keeps curious fingers away from them.  It is not obvious that the drawer is a drawer when it is closed.<br />
<br />
In the photo you can see black strips of magnetic tape that hold the polycarbonate front panel on the machine.  There are similar strips on the other sides and matching strips on the panels.  The top, left side and bottom panels are 1" thick PIR foam insulation board.  The top panel is screwed down and the left side and bottom panels are cut so they jam-fit in the frame without any other attachment.  It has been pretty cold in my basement workroom so, I replaced the back panel with an insulation panel that has magnetic tape to help contain the heat.  I'm finding that that still isn't quite keeping the build chamber temperature as high as I would like so I'm getting ready to add a heater.  The black base with the QR code and the red stickers is the drawer panel.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
This is how the drawer works:<br />
<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2016 10:13:47 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,634177#msg-634177</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,634177#msg-634177</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I see no reason why not to use the first suggestion of the @the_digital_dentist. You can buy a tap for a few plates worth of moneys and you can use that many times.<br />
I don't see though, and that's why I seem to be reviving a stalled thread, how to connect a vertical extrusion to the already formed corner?. Drilling another cross-hole to the already existing one for the allen key would weaken too much the extrusion, unless it was a very tiny one. Please correct me if I am wrong.<br />
<br />
I can easily imagine how a plane could be constructed in this manner. Then make two planes and connect the third extrusion (the vertical) with plates or brackets. Or use a corner cube block (expensive).<br />
<br />
The only way to still use the tap-screw method for all the frame is to offset the vertical columns and have a second hole close to the first one on two of the plane's sides.<br />
The comparison example in the image below:<br />
<br />
[attachment 73692 screenshot.543.png]<br />
<br />
Also about the wooden panels bolted to the frame: won't the wood (low coefficient of thermal expansion) and ALU (not low, not near wood's) just twist the frame trying to accommodate their specific expansion coefs? Moreover, due to humidity, won't wood pull on the aluminum in an unpredictable manner thus twisting the frame even more? I believe bracing with steel or aluminum is better for a metal frame.<br />
<br />
Edit: Of course one could use T-Slot End Connectors like this one below, which would use the already existing hole:<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
But I have no idea where to get those, how much they cost and they also require a ball headed hex key to pre-tighten and then use the L-key to fasten.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>realthor</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 02 Mar 2016 03:41:50 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,605087#msg-605087</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,605087#msg-605087</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I really do know about this problem as I often could have cursed other persons if you are laying in the dirt and could not reach a cable properly for example. You are stretching yourself and you cannot see anything only feel your workspace. Luckily I am working now as Engineer and not as a service man anymore. <br />
So I will do it like the following:<br />
I will design the printer without the wooden housing. This will be added at last. For stability reasons I have planned to fix as many wood panels as I could. Only the roof and the front will be left opened.<br />
When mounting (it is a long long way or maybe not?) I will build the housing first completely.<br />
While designing and mounting I will keep an eye of the accessibility of course as I do not want to make my life harder as needed. Maybe I have to plan some access panel or I use at one side wooden extrusion with some sort of door.<br />
For the moment it should be all accessible via the front or the roof. Do not forget the building high is 500mm so the front entry is approximate 400x600mm roughly guessed. The electronics will be mounted at the back panel. Maybe there will be a problem with the weight so I guess I should prefer to mount the CoreXY-motors at the front and the spool holders at the side panels?<br />
The best solution would be to mount the PSU to the bottom panel but then I may get trouble with the cooling, but the design will show. I can only do some speculations at the moment and I guess that during the designing phase starting at the weekend I will get some new ideas.<br />
For me it is mostly important to get a stable frame so the use of my stepper motors with 400 steps does make sense and I can profit from their higher resolution.<br />
<br />
Today I was lucky to purchase three spools ABS in different colors for the price of only one by a private seller. The only problem is that they had been opened but not used.<br />
<br />
One Off-Topic question: I often read that you should add a fan if you heat the chamber. But what about the air flow? Isn't this a problem for the printed parts?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Treito</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 05 Jan 2016 13:18:44 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604970#msg-604970</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604970#msg-604970</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If you are using wood panels on the sides of the printer, think about how you're going to access the printer mechanism/wiring/electronics for repairs, upgrades, and maintenance.  If the panels are fixed you'll be cursing yourself every time you have to make some sort of change or adjustment.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 05 Jan 2016 08:33:36 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604782#msg-604782</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604782#msg-604782</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Normally my controller board only supports one Extruder, but I am lucky to use either an extension board which I have already here (unsure if I will extend my Ormerod 2, too) or to buy the newer version of the board. We will see.<br />
<br />
I am not convinced about your closed chamber design. i guess the magazine only looked at the stickiness and warping regarding the heated bed. I have not planned to print such big parts in ABS. ABS printing for me is only for printer parts or other parts where I need special requirements. Otherwise all prints will be done in PLA or PETG.<br />
<br />
However last night I make a decision. I should not have said somewhere above that I will not do one of these option in any case. No I will do it. :D Okay not exactly. To be more precise:<br />
I will get wooden panels either in black or paint them black. Thickness probably 20mm. The color and the thickness makes the difference, but it will not look good. My local Hardware store could cut it to length. it seems to be very cheap (I have no prices yet). You can easy connect them (Just use some screws) and it is very stable. It will offer me a closed chamber including isolation so that the heat will not get lost. And I can put the electronics easily to the outside. All components could be mounted by self-cutting screws, in Germany called "Spax".<br />
As this is my first design and I do not know if this will work, it is the best and only option I have. The only disadvantage is that I cannot implement all my surprises in full details. However I will need some extrusion to make the axes stronger and to stabilize them.<br />
The only thing I do not know that is how I would design the front door, but for the beginning I have no need for a roof or a front, but it can later be easily added to provide a closed chamber.<br />
<br />
So that design should be stable enough to provide high print speeds and good accuracy. The isolating factor should be high enough to provide a heated and heatable chamber. If it is painted or ??? (how do you call these parts which will be ironed to the wood) you have a good protection. It is cheap. What do you want more? Look at all the CTC printers and clones it is nothing different<br />
<br />
Many thanks for your support.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Treito</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 05 Jan 2016 00:59:38 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604231#msg-604231</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604231#msg-604231</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ In my printer, all the heat in the chamber is provided by the bed heater and to a much lesser extent, the extruder, and X and Z axis motors.  You may be able to do the same, depending upon your printer's construction and the bed heater power.  It isn't difficult or expensive to add additional heat by adding either a large resistor with a small fan or a small room heater with a built in fan.  You can put unused temperature input on your printer's controller board to work monitoring the chamber temperature and switch power to the supplemental heater as needed to regulate the temperature.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2016 22:16:17 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604224#msg-604224</guid>
            <title>Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,601562,604224#msg-604224</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Dentist is 100% right. I will just add that it is HEIGHT we are talking about here. As long as the parts are kept close to the heated bed most ABS parts can be made. My corners as previously shown are in ABS. <br />
<br />
However - As soon as you try to make anything high like the faces shown by Dentist you will have problems. Not always, but enough so that you cannot leave a print like Dentist show and expect to come back to a finished good print. There are so many people talking about bed adhesion with ABS and in my opinion it is only the tip of the iceberg. I have so good bed adhesion with my ABS that I have literally broken bits off my tempered glass plate from trying to remove a print while it was still hot.  <br />
<br />
Bed adhesion is not the problem - Cracks like Dentist shows in his photo is. <br />
<br />
DO note that there are some confusion between a closed chamber and a heated chamber. Those are not the same. The enclosure that the smartrapcore makes with its wood panels is <b>not</b> what is being referred to. The only thing such an enclosure (even if it is all around) is make sure that small gusts of wind does not interfere. I believe the German magazine if they said that this does not really make any difference.<br />
<br />
<br />
What matters is to have a heated enclosure where you actively, with heaters, keeps a much higher ambient temperature. Such a setup is much more complicated to make and few printers have this. I am in the progress of making this for one of my printers as I have come to the same realization as Dentist on this subject. <br />
<br />
<br />
@ Snari - Thank you for the correction.  At just 2.7 euro per plate I now see no reason not to buy these and slap them on if sticking to 2020.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>LarsK</dc:creator>
            <category>Extruded Aluminum Frames</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2016 21:01:28 -0500</pubDate>
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