FLSUN I3 kit review Hi. Longtime lurker, first time poster. I have a couple of friends with acrylic kits (they got me hooked :) ) and eventually went looking for a kit. I'm an engineer by training, and have been aware of the strengths and weaknesses (literally and metaphorically) of the various styles of machine frames. I had actually 3-D'd a design with 1"x1" extrusion because I wanted the rigidity of a metal frame. Then I saw the FLSUN kit. 20mm x 20mm frame, all parts included, for $219, free shipping. Busted. Sent in the order and in 5 days the kit showed up at my door. I've dealt with electronic prototyping of all kinds, up to refrigerator-size and bigger things that became entire computer systems, since the early 70s, so I think I'm qualified to critique a kit. [b][i][u]This one is good.[/u][/i][/b] It's 20mm x 20mm T-slot extrusion, glossy black paint, with fittings and hardware where appropriate.All parts and pieces were included. Moreover, they **fit** together, which has not always been true for kits I've seen in the past. The parts other than the frame were either 3D printed fittings or laser-cut ~8mm acrylic pieces. The instruction manual, along with STL files for the printed pieces and parts lists came on an SD card in the box. The instruction/assembly manual was 148 pages of pictures with arrows and text for what to use and how to fit it. Total assembly time was maybe three hours, and I stretched it out because I actually savor that kind of thing. I'm taking my time getting wire routing down to how I like it and making sure that things don't get pinched in the motion, etc. There were only the most trivial of errors in the manual. The big one was where a 350mm length was specified as "350cm". Not hard to figure that one out! :) The hardware screws and such were carefully put into small ziploc bags with the size of the screw (M2.5, M3, M4, etc.) marked on the bag. This is GOOD practice for a kit. The kit came with a 12V/16A power supply included, and 1kg of PLA filament in a (still...) vacuum sealed bag. And that's where the few problems that exist begin. The packaging was very nice indeed. The outer box was sturdy, and inside was the film-wrapped extrusion on bottom, metal rods, and a group of secondary boxes. The secondary boxes contained parts sorted by type and stage of assembly. These boxes fit neatly into groups around the outside, leaving a central cavity that neatly contained the 1kg spool of filament and the power supply in its own cardboard box. In the bard's words, aye, there's the rub. In shipping, nothing at all was damaged - except the power supply. It had been bashed on by the filament spool banging back and forth inside the central opening. It's thin metal cover had been squashed and bashed down, and one corner of the PCB at the screw-connectors end was cracked. I send an email to the online store that sells this kit, and within minutes received an automated reply that the problem had been forwarded to the appropriate people. [b][i][u]After that automated reply, I got ...nothing at all.[/u][/i][/b] It's going on two weeks now, and even after a second email to them, containing pictures of the power supply damage, I have received nothing. Zero. Zilch. Nada. Well, OK, a second automated reply, but no matter how polite their machine is, it's not as good as getting some attention to the damaged power supply. This has kept me from actually firing the thing up. It reminds me of a joke about a cheap car, long ago: "The dials and gauges were clearly marked, well lit, and easy to read. However their utility was reduced by the fact that they were merely printed on cardboard, not actually connected up to anything." I'm a big boy. I got a good kit of parts that went together well. I can find and hook up another power supply, but that will add another $20 - $30 to the cost of the kit. But I find it baffling to have such a very, very well executed kit of parts and instruction manual completely invalidated by the failure to stick some crumpled paper into the space between a rollaround filament spool and a power supply box. Net evaluation: [b]Parts Quality: very good indeed Kit Completeness: very good indeed Instructions Quality: very good indeed Customer Support: The very worst possible or imaginable.[/b] [b][i][u]Overall: Only buy this kit if you can cope with repairing or replacing anything that might be broken or missing. There is no customer support at all.[/u][/i][/b] It's a pity. They came so close. https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,696150#msg-696150 Mon, 13 Jul 2026 08:37:30 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,801680#msg-801680 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,801680#msg-801680
I am trying to find an aluminium carriage to fit the 300x300mm bed but I have have no luck what so ever. Anyone know where I can buy a carriage that will fit? The holes that mount to the heat bed are spaced about 240mm

I am also going to update the rails to dual 12mm instead of the 8mm junk.]]> jnsbanman Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 20 Dec 2017 08:54:24 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795735#msg-795735 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795735#msg-795735
Obviously they do not even test the software they send with the printer.

I figured it would be wise to run std Marlin and worry about the AC feature once it was build and tested. Apparently they assume that no one will use the std version and do make sure it actually works !

The other problem was the mate's Windoze machine was full of crap and the drivers would not install correctly. Having got the printer working on Linux, we tried a cleaner Windoze machine and the driver problem disappeared.

I agree the printer h/w looks like it has been seriously under-engineered. Not at all rigid or stable but he did not ask my opinion before buying, he was so confident he had scored a great deal ! You get what you pay for.]]> wrapperz Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 09 Nov 2017 14:46:54 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795688#msg-795688 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795688#msg-795688
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wrapperz
Is was is being tested and discussed here is the same flsun as shown here:

[www.aliexpress.com]


If so could someone link me a working, tested configure.h and indicate what version of Marlin it applies to ( apparently they have not maintained compatibility and older configs no longer work with more recent Marlin versions. )

Shame that the chinese supplier can't manage to provide something which works once assembled.

they're f*****g hopeless. i replaced 40% of the parts with libre GPLv3+ licensed designs (at the link in the first post), and plan to do the rest as well. when buying the taobao clone i said to them not to bother shipping the controller, because i knew that i would only have to replace whatever s*** they'd supplied.

the point of the entire exercise here is to be IN CHINA to get LOWER COST PARTS, but actually CHECKING THE QUALITY, and SUPPLYING PEOPLE WITH 100% LIBRE SOURCE.

so best of both worlds so that people can buy lower cost but also MAINTAIN THEIR PRINTERS.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 09 Nov 2017 06:44:37 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795687#msg-795687 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795687#msg-795687
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number40fan
For that money, I'd jump to a Tevo Tornado. Can be had for $309.

plus shipping? we have quite a tale of nightmare parts to tell on this one - i think the only original parts left is the metal frame and the NEMA17s! there's a bit about it here [www.crowdsupply.com] have to go, packing up to cross the border where maybe we will not get stopped for carrying "cargo" into china... :)]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 09 Nov 2017 06:41:30 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795685#msg-795685 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,795685#msg-795685 number40fan Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 09 Nov 2017 06:04:43 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,792760#msg-792760 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,792760#msg-792760
[www.aliexpress.com]


If so could someone link me a working, tested configure.h and indicate what version of Marlin it applies to ( apparently they have not maintained compatibility and older configs no longer work with more recent Marlin versions. )

Shame that the chinese supplier can't manage to provide something which works once assembled.]]> wrapperz Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 18 Oct 2017 09:07:57 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781568#msg-781568 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781568#msg-781568
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dolon

Thanks, for the tip on Printrun. Will check it out. Cant wait for my delivery.

y'know... i still get these zen moments, after 4 maybe 5 years now when i got my mendel90, where i am just astounded that we (ordinary humans) now have the ability to design something on a computer and then... actually have a physical version of it, in our hands, and it doesn't cost us fortune and nobody tells us "you can't do that". it's... just.... so stunningly empowering and a huge responsibility as well, it just knocks me sideways. then i remember i have to fix yet another bit of faulty design work and go "aw gawd here we go..." :)]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 03 Aug 2017 09:40:09 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781551#msg-781551 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781551#msg-781551
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lkcl

well, you can always leave the belts off the x and y, then try running "Home" on X and Y in turn, and manually press the limit switch. .

Yeah, just watched YouTube video on an Anet A8 assembly. The guy does an Electronics dry run with all the devices plugged into the motherboard.
I need to make sure the motors are spinning correctly, to suit the Y- axis belt assembly.
Thanks, for the tip on Printrun. Will check it out. Cant wait for my delivery.]]> dolon Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 03 Aug 2017 08:20:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781540#msg-781540 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781540#msg-781540
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dolon
How to set the limit switch positions.
How to confirm motors are spinning the right way and avoid crashes.
What software to upload first etc.
Any advice much appreciated.

well, you can always leave the belts off the x and y, then try running "Home" on X and Y in turn, and manually press the limit switch. but even before you do that you can use M119 to report the switch status.

the z axis you'll either have to part-assemble (don't put the x-assembly on until you've tested the z-motors and z-switch) or just be prepared to hit the power on/off switch before you get a head-crash. that's the main thing: have one hand hovering over the power switch, ok? :)

you should get a copy of Printrun (pronterface) as it contains a really clear UI (which is often replicated in other programs, such as Cura 21 from lulzbot). pronterface (and skeinforge) is old but to be honest after using other software i just... argh so many problems with them i finally came back full-circle to it. perhaps you could consider the same thing, start with e.g. Cura 21 "because it looks simple" then when you hit the limitations you'll find you know a bit more by then so can jump in to pronterface and skeinforge without going completely bonkers :)

don't go near slic3r. just.... don't.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 03 Aug 2017 07:23:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781527#msg-781527 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,781527#msg-781527 I started with a lot online window shopping and warnings of 'you get what you pay for' etc, but decided that I would do my research properly.
Even began a Comparative spreadsheet and quickly realised that there was not much separating the budget units.
Decided to then just look at Sellers with the most orders and plenty of feedback.
It then appeared to me that Flsun were eager to improve. All Specs were clearly stated. What stood out was the Metal Frame, Auto levelling Dual Extruders and 2 Z-Axis motors.
A 20% off deal ending in 2 days sealed it. Could not resist, and I ordered the i3!

While waiting for delivery have been getting familiar with the Assembly process. Luckily, I found instructions uploaded on Thingiverse. I expect the unit I receive will be a bit different but the basics would not change. I even wrote my own instructions to clarify some stages of assembly.
However, the steps after everything is assembled are not very clear.
How to set the limit switch positions.
How to confirm motors are spinning the right way and avoid crashes.
What software to upload first etc.
Any advice much appreciated.]]> dolon Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 03 Aug 2017 06:28:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780744#msg-780744 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780744#msg-780744
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cheddy
Right! Of course! Put the insulation under the bed. What was I thinking? That would make a difference. I will give that a try.

:)

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How do you fix the padding to the bottom of the bed?

keep adding more cardboard until it don't move no more :) ya ain't gonna be running this printer fast enough for it to fall out.

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Do you use longer corner screws and put the leveling springs under the padding, with a rigid under-plate?

naah, nothing remotely that sophisticated or complicated. as in: don't alter the setup in *any* way. just... literally keep stuffing in 8x8in squares of heavy-duty corrugated cardboard (the stuff your printer arrived in) until y'all can't fit no more. simple as that.

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Got a spool of PETG filament on order. I'm keen to see how it works after all the recommendations.

Thanks for all the advice.

*thumbs-up*]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 19:36:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780731#msg-780731 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780731#msg-780731
Got a spool of PETG filament on order. I'm keen to see how it works after all the recommendations.

Thanks for all the advice.]]> cheddy Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 17:36:08 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780687#msg-780687 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780687#msg-780687
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lkcl
hi folks, yes the sled, it's about 1in below the heated bed, on 4(?) spring-loaded screws for adjustment, that's the standard mendel layout at least. one layer of cork's not enough, you want enough (cardboard) underneath the cork to make sure that the cork is fully in contact with the printbed. cool-down time will be longer but you can do what nophead did with the mendel90 and add a side directed cooling fan (120mm). see mendel90 firmware for details if you want to set that up under control of gcode.

don't for god's sake just try blithely switching to 24v, you have to have either a printbed that can cope (re-soldering if it's a MK2 or MK3) or you need a minimum of a 500W PSU if you want to leave the printbed configured as-is. now you also need to make sure that the electronics (the crappy RAMPS-style stuff is unlikely to cope) is able to handle the current...

... but more than that you now need to change the heater cartridge to 24V (otherwise it will blow up - double the wattage will be supplied to it otherwise, that's now 50W to a heater cartridge: guaranteed burn-out and/or equipment fires), and replace all the fans with 24V ones, and.. and... and.. and...

overall cheddy i'd say try the cardboard, and if that doesn't work just don't bother, do what Ynotha did instead: get PETG and use that in place of ABS. i really like PETG, you can get it in translucent colours, it has a much higher glass point than PLA, has better structural rigidity than ABS, isn't as toxic (you will still need to vent the room), and doesn't need such ridiculously high printbed temperatures. there's nothing particularly fancy (that i know of) about it - nothing as bad as nylon (which needs to be placed in an oven @ some mad temperature for 6-8 hours because it absorbs like.... 15% of its volume in water or something mad, so when you heat it you get boiling water pockets in the heat chamber (!) and your print if you don't dry it out!)

anyway, lots of good reasons to try PETG over ABS.

Thank you for clearing up the power supply details! Now that you mention all of that I do remember it's a much bigger undertaking.

I do highly recommend the PETG, I'm loving it so far (when my printer behaves). I will also be adding more insulation to my bed like suggested, I've been doing a bunch of modifications and haven't finished that portion yet.]]> Ynothna Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 12:17:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780686#msg-780686 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780686#msg-780686
don't for god's sake just try blithely switching to 24v, you have to have either a printbed that can cope (re-soldering if it's a MK2 or MK3) or you need a minimum of a 500W PSU if you want to leave the printbed configured as-is. now you also need to make sure that the electronics (the crappy RAMPS-style stuff is unlikely to cope) is able to handle the current...

... but more than that you now need to change the heater cartridge to 24V (otherwise it will blow up - double the wattage will be supplied to it otherwise, that's now 50W to a heater cartridge: guaranteed burn-out and/or equipment fires), and replace all the fans with 24V ones, and.. and... and.. and...

overall cheddy i'd say try the cardboard, and if that doesn't work just don't bother, do what Ynotha did instead: get PETG and use that in place of ABS. i really like PETG, you can get it in translucent colours, it has a much higher glass point than PLA, has better structural rigidity than ABS, isn't as toxic (you will still need to vent the room), and doesn't need such ridiculously high printbed temperatures. there's nothing particularly fancy (that i know of) about it - nothing as bad as nylon (which needs to be placed in an oven @ some mad temperature for 6-8 hours because it absorbs like.... 15% of its volume in water or something mad, so when you heat it you get boiling water pockets in the heat chamber (!) and your print if you don't dry it out!)

anyway, lots of good reasons to try PETG over ABS.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 12:03:36 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780683#msg-780683 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780683#msg-780683
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cheddy
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lkcl
hiya cheddy, i remember that nophead recommended the trick of putting several layers of cardboard (cutting up the box his kit arrived in.. :) ) in between the metal plate and the printbed. that stops airflow getting in underneath, and also acts as a heat-trap.

Hi Ikcl, thanks for your quick response. I don't think the print bed on my printer has two layers, just a single aluminum plate with wires attached underneath for the heater. It seems pretty rudimentary to me, with the heat being supplied by resistance in the wires and I'm wondering if I need to get a better heated bed. Or do you mean putting the padding between the plate and the BuildTak print surface?


Hey cheddy ,

Ikcl probably meant between the sled and the heat bed. It keeps the heat from escaping from the bottom. And the wired method is standard with the beds so I don't think you'll find a different design, just better quality. From my understanding upgrading to a 24v psu from the 12v would help with heating both the bed and the extruder, but I could be wrong. I haven't done a lot of research on that part yet.

I picked up a 12x12in sheet of cork from Staples, trimmed it down, and taped it to the underneath of my bed, it's helped a fair bit, but I only need to get to 75 for printing PETG, I haven't tried ABS. My bed did give me trouble when I tried to get to 80.

If you still have trouble with getting things to stick after getting up to temp I've been using a sheet of PEI on top of my bed and it's been amazing, I haven't had any issues with my prints not sticking since adding that.

Best of luck! I'm rooting for you, I upgraded to an E3Dv6 a few months ago and have been unable to print since. Yesterday I finally came close so I'm hoping today is the day.]]> Ynothna Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 11:22:36 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780676#msg-780676 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780676#msg-780676
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lkcl
hiya cheddy, i remember that nophead recommended the trick of putting several layers of cardboard (cutting up the box his kit arrived in.. :) ) in between the metal plate and the printbed. that stops airflow getting in underneath, and also acts as a heat-trap.

Hi Ikcl, thanks for your quick response. I don't think the print bed on my printer has two layers, just a single aluminum plate with wires attached underneath for the heater. It seems pretty rudimentary to me, with the heat being supplied by resistance in the wires and I'm wondering if I need to get a better heated bed. Or do you mean putting the padding between the plate and the BuildTak print surface?]]> cheddy Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 10:21:48 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780659#msg-780659 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780659#msg-780659
the only thing you really want to watch out for is that if you have any PLA-printed parts on your printer that are near the printbed they might get sufficiently close to the 60C glass point of PLA as to start warping, particularly if they're under any kind of load.

basically these chinese cheap-and-cheerful printers are in absolutely no way designed for high-temperature materials, you probably have a PTFE tube down the middle of the heat break. this was a bad design decision somewhere in the west that was "copy-copy-copy-copy-we-have-no-idea-why-we're-copying-it-but-who-cares-as-long-as-foreigners-continue-to-give-us-money" copied and propagated without any kind of thought as to why it was done...

... and it means that if you try to go over about 250C (even accidentally, which can happen if your PID settings are out of whack and you get enough overshoot on first heating up the hotend) you *will* start to destroy things. starting with the heatbreak. then you will get blockages and the extruder won't stop so the filament will jam. which in turn will damage the extruder....

.... so... be careful ok!]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 08:24:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780652#msg-780652 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,780652#msg-780652
I spent many frustrated days after assembling the printer trying to get it to print a simple PLA model without the model coming loose during printing. I tried all the recommended print surface preparations: blue tape (the suppliers recommended solution), glass, glue-stick, etc. and nothing seemed to work. I then discovered BuildTak, but even that didn't work at first. I then tried the BuildTak with a heated bed (60C), and bingo! I got a complete model to print successfully, and that combination has been working well for PLA ever since. I initially didn't use the heated bed as most posts I read regarding PLA said it wasn't necessary, including the supplier's brief user guide.

That solved the PLA printing problem, but I am now running into an issue trying to print in ABS. My printer seems incapable of heating the print bed to the desired temperature (110-120C). It gets up to about 93C, very, very slowly for the last few degrees, but won't go any higher. The heat is dissipating from the bed quicker than the heater can supply it. I tried putting a towel or a piece of Styrofoam on top of the bed and that allows the bed to heat to the desired temperature (very, very slowly), but as soon as I remove it when the printing starts the bed temperature starts to drop and the model comes loose before the first layer is finished. Does anyone have any suggestions for solving this problem? Do I need a better heated bed, or will a more powerful PSU help (e.g. 350W instead of the 240W?)]]> cheddy Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 29 Jul 2017 07:49:20 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769653#msg-769653 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769653#msg-769653 reprap.org]]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 22 May 2017 18:25:42 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769649#msg-769649 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769649#msg-769649 wunderkind Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 22 May 2017 18:03:16 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769527#msg-769527 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769527#msg-769527
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wunderkind
Yes, I think it is a pity they have altered a design which is working for us.

well... you could always have a word with them, and reference this conversation, and simply say to them "hey guys we've been recommending you online, now you've changed the design *and not changed the name* please can you put it back"

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Just a hint of 'drift' using Slic3r, but much more like the originals when using Cura. I need to get to know Cura better.

yeah if you're not totally familiar with 3d print slicing, slic3r is literally the worst possible choice of program to use that you could possibly make. slic3r is written in a programming language called perl, and it tries to be "very very clever". the problem is that its cleverness doesn't result in actually being clever, it results in total shit for output. i can point you at some parts to try out if you like: don't actually print them, just bring them up in pronterface, cura or other "viewer" and switch it to "layer" mode. you'll see that the layers often "jump height" and it basically makes a total mess. the resultant output... well... to say that slic3r's "cleverness" adversely affects the print quality would be a massive understatement of the first order.

yes cura is pretty good. the "stock" version which is reliable and works well with other printers is cura 15.04. cura 2 (latest version) really doesn't play nice with other printers. but because it's software libre, lulzbot have been working on the older (reliable) version, and they're up to version 21.04 so far.

i've been using cura 15.04 for about a year and its simplicity makes *far* better prints. i just installed 21.04 from lulzbot a couple of days ago and the GUI is a great improvement: management of the printer (manual x-step, y-step, etc. just like in Pronterface) is possible.

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I have printed all the parts for the X and Z carriages and mounts and the leadscrew brackets and I'm just waiting for the last stragglers of new hardware parts to come to hand. I also have a v6 extruder and I may use it as well when I do my mods. Not sure yet if I will convert the Y belt to horizontal orientation and have still to print the parts for that. This sure is a fun machine to tinker with!

if you are considering prioritisation of what kinds of improvements to make that would result in higher-quality prints, horizontal x-axis would be much better: changing the y-belt to horizontal will have no appreciable change in the quality. i started from this one [www.thingiverse.com] and can make the current work available online if you like.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 22 May 2017 06:45:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769497#msg-769497 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769497#msg-769497 wunderkind Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 22 May 2017 04:33:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769422#msg-769422 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,769422#msg-769422
I can see that it looks like the manufacturer has changed the design of the printer and that is to bad as the design I purchased
has been working very well, I knew going in that I would have to mod a few things to make it better but for me that is the fun part,
I might have been lucky but mine has been great.
Here is a picture in its current config. thanks to the crew over at Thingiverse for all the files for the mods in Red, I added the longer lead screws which helped stabilize things greatly.

Take Care]]> Tatsudoshi Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 21 May 2017 20:31:44 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767377#msg-767377 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767377#msg-767377
in the case of a vertical Y stepper the belt will be out of alignment (and will stretch considerably) but there would be no obvious consequences (such as trying to ride off the idler or GT2 gear).

but just as with the x-axis it is *really* important to have the belt absolutely dead-level, the top of the belt as it comes off the GT2, through the line of its mounting points on the bed, all the way to where it goes back onto the idler, that line MUST be absolutely dead-straight.

bit of a pain but it's something that everyone who has this new design will need to double-check during assembly if you don't you'll get non-linear printing if you ever try to do large prints or print something in the corners / edges of the printbed.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 11 May 2017 13:10:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767322#msg-767322 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767322#msg-767322
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wunderkind
Yes, looking at the website it looks as though our reliable printer has been replaced by a new design. I have qualms about the top heavy nature of the tower with the Z motors on top. So I will agree that there is room for constructive criticism and maybe we will see an unemotional review posted here. In the meantime, LKCL, perhaps we can agree that not all flsun3d i3 printers have been created equal and care is needed in specifying models when making comparisons.

it is a constant common occurrence in china to change the product without changing the name, *including* without informing the customer... which is deception pure and simple. i've heard dozens of horror stories of variants from outright deception (smaller capacitors inside capacitor cases or 2.5in HDDs inside 3.5in HDD cases) to "oops we forgot to tell you we can't get the parts any more so we just... replaced them with a totally new design whoopsie".

it's *also* a common theme for chinese citizens to "copy" an existing design - usually verbatim - and to sell it under phonetically similar names. one hilarious one is a 2-cylinder 500cc diesel motor which goes by the name "Yangma", "Yanma", "Yongma", "Yenma"... any variant that sounds the same, they want to gain market share.

unfortunately as a non-national of the PRC you have absolutely no legal rights whatsoever to recover any funds that you give such companies.

this is basically why i'm now in taiwan and will be sourcing the components directly myself then building my own reliable 3d printer. i'm using chinese nationals (citizens) to do the ordering so that the sellers know that they cannot rip me off. once it's ready yes i will make kits available and no, the name will *not* change, so that you know exactly what you're getting, and i will train someone to make sure that the kit's properly packed.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 11 May 2017 09:32:59 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767209#msg-767209 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767209#msg-767209 www.flsun3dprinter.com] - it's from here, which is from the top hit on a google search "FLSUN3D". 7am and i haven't slept yet: more tomorrow.]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 10 May 2017 19:27:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767208#msg-767208 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767208#msg-767208 wunderkind Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 10 May 2017 19:14:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767207#msg-767207 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767207#msg-767207
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wunderkind
The image you have posted is radically different from my flsun3d i3. I don't think you are comparing apples with apples. My 2020 frame is incredibly rigid and displays no tendency to wobble. Are we talking about the same supplier? Mine came from flsun3d Printer Store, whom I found to be communicative and proactively helpful even though I did not have any issues with the product. Are you determined to besmirch a product which many here are finding reliable and very good value?

I second Wunderkind on that your printer has quite a few differences from mine. While mine has some acrylic braces that I plan to replace it's been pretty solid and has been running really well for me. In the last 3 days I ran two 13 hour prints in a row, I need to tune some dimension settings a very small amount (my X and Y are a little off), but everything else has worked great.

I took a look at the website I originally bought mine from and it has been replaced with Ikcl's model, so it looks like there may have been a rebuild recently.

My FLSUN Printer. The main photos are the same as Ikcl's, but if you scroll down to the description you can see the model I have (smaller photo beside the header).

If FLSUN has replaced their model with this new one, and it's much lower quality, that's really unfortunate...I hope they will change it back if that's the case.]]> Ynothna Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 10 May 2017 19:04:36 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767206#msg-767206 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767206#msg-767206 wunderkind Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 10 May 2017 18:52:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767205#msg-767205 Re: FLSUN I3 kit review https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,696150,767205#msg-767205
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wunderkind
I disagree. The flsun3d i3 is not the same as the two printers you have provided links to.

true: i spotted that after posting, and so took a closer look, so thank you for prompting me to investigate. the design is actually *worse* than both those printers.

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Some similarities in that they all use 2020 extruded aluminium but the similarities seem to end there.

they're definitely derivatives. i've seen variants on taobao which also use rails and belts.

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The shortcomings you mention are not present in my flsun3d i3 and my relationship with the seller was brilliant. I think you owe flsun3d an apology!

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R.G.

After that automated reply, I got ...nothing at all.

so no... i do not.

take a look at the image that is attached: it's directly from their website. start at the top: the first two ringed (red) highlighted areas: these are flexible couplings. that means that the z-screws are going to bounce around by a good millimetre or so. as the *entire x-assembly*'s position is critically dependent on those, you can test this very easily by simply moving the x assembly up and down *at each end*. as the motors are upside-down you don't even get assistance from gravity, here.

what will happen if you do larger, complex prints is that you may end up with uneven accumulation of filament in some areas, at different heights. the flexible couplings will allow the hotend to RIDE OVER these uneven bumps in SOME cases.... and in others there will be such an accumulated height difference that the nozzle could SMASH into the object, ripping it off the printbed and potentially damaging the printer in the process.

solution: replace the flexible couplings with e.g. (fixed) mendel90 couplings.

middle of the image: i've ringed the x-axis belt. it's CLEARLY not level, and i can tell that from a small not-very-detailed image. that means, pure and simple, that as the head moves further left (or further right), the closer it gets to the edges the faster the hotend will move.. in a NON-LINEAR fashion. you can test this really easily by printing a long thin rectangle 275mm long, 2mm wide and 1mm high along the diagonal of the printbed. then WITHOUT removing the object get yourself a decent ruler and put it alongside what you've printed. you'll find that the print - which should be absolutely dead straight - is in fact CURVED note that this assumes that the Y-axis belt does not have the exact same flaw: i can't tell from the photos. it should be obvious that if the same flaw is present with the exact same amount of bowing in BOTH BELTS then printing across the diagonal will NOT show up this design flaw.

solution: difficult to do on an all-aluminium design: normally i'd say "alter the design and re-print it". instead you'll need to experiment, find different sized idlers and different sized GT2-NN drive pulleys for the X-motor to make the belt level.

bottom of the image: i've ringed the join between the uprights (which are a single upright!) and the base. these joins are 5mm cast L-shapes! they're total shit for structural strength! you can't *possibly* expect them to hold those uprights steady! you can check it by just pushing the uprights at the top: the entire thing will wobble back-and-forth... and that's going to happen *during printing*, even at low speeds.

this flaw can be corrected by replacing those 5mm L-brackets with 20x20x20mm triangles just like the ones that can be seen as "feet" (or better get 40x40x20 triangles instead). in fact you could probably print up some squares for feet then use the ones at the front and back and put them to better use stabilising the frame.

no my friend, far from apologising i thank *you* for bringing my mistake to my attention, causing me to investigate more in-depth so as to be able to warn people of the design flaws in this printer. we're here not to serve corporations: we're here to learn from each other so as to improve 3D printing for ourselves and for others. if a corporation does a shit job it's our *responsibility* to bring it to everyone's attention. they can then decide, "hmm i'll avoid that thank you" or "hmm it's so cheap i think i'll get it and then just replace the crap bits and still save myself some wonga".]]> lkcl Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 10 May 2017 18:35:43 -0400