Reprap Forum - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Cartesian pen plotter

Vojta_Vojta — Sun, 19 Jan 2025 10:27:49 -0500

Hello,
I've decided to build a cartesian pen plotter that will have a work surface the size of A4 paper. I am attaching a picture of the 3D model to give a better idea.

For X axis movement NEMA17 with trapezoidal threaded rod and linear guide with carriage.
The Y axis is double, otherwise the same as the X axis.
For Z axis movement I use an MG90S micro servo and linear guide rods and linear bearings.

The endstops are installed as follows:
X_min and X_max
Y1_min, Y2_min and Y1_max
For the Z axis I have not planned the endstops yet, as I think they are not needed since I am using a servo.

I already have the design done and have started with the marlin configuration, which I am a bit lost in.

I have set up, driver types, extruder setup, power supply, temperature sensors etc I skipped. However, I couldn't find anywhere to set the dual Y axis and set the Y2_min to the Z_min connector on the Ramps 1,4. Overall, maybe this firmware is a bit overkill for my needs, there are many features in the cofiguration that I won't even use. Which makes me a bit confused in the cofiguration.

How do I set up the dual Y axis and endstops correctly?
Should I try to reconfigure the Marlin, or should I look for some other alternative?
Is there a Marlin configuration for at least some similar device? As far as I looked, unfortunately I couldn't find anything.

Thank you very much for any recommendations and advice.

Re: Carteasian top speed?

Demolux_D1 — Tue, 19 Mar 2024 23:40:14 -0400

Hi!

The top speed is far more complex to define than you probably think.
It has nothing to do with extrusions or kinematic but solely with moving mass and velocity.
You want to minimize the first and maximize the latter. Several design mantras can be derived from that.

For high acceleration you need low moving masses.
For high acceleration you need strong motors.
For low moving masses you need as little components on your moving axes as possible (e. g. no motor which is why corexy or H-Bot and such have an advantage)
For high velocity you need fast motors (high rpm)

You can go much more into detail here.
But as I see you already have a design and want to know it's max speed. A good guess is to take the heaviest moving axis and calculate it's speed, which I assume you want to know acceleration and velocity max possible.
Using the torque of your motors at a certain rpm you can calculate the acceleration via the pulleys functional diameter and the moving masses (everything that slides or rotates, including the belts). The according velocity can be calculated using the circumference of the pulley and the rpm.

Withoit more information about your mechanic system one can only guess.

Carteasian top speed?

aamcle — Fri, 17 Feb 2023 06:27:24 -0500

I built a printer using 3030 and Makerbot kinematics a simple Carteasian bot, I designed it my self did the CAD and printed the parts. This was the first time I'd done anything like that and although it works as expected I lost a lot of bed space and I put the electronics in what I now find to be the most inconvenient place possible.

So I want to do a rebuild, my choices are to keep the very stable Carteasian setup redesigning it to save some more bed space and move the electronics or rebuild as CoreXY which would print faster.

What I would like advice about is a likely top print speed (direct drive preferred to bowden) of a Carteasian printer based on 3030 extrusion?

I realise it less than CoreXY.

Thanks All.

aamcle

First 3D printer build, hoping to use my stash of OpenBeam

Annirak — Sun, 05 Feb 2023 18:47:07 -0500

After a long hiatus, it’s time to get my feet wet with a 3D printer. I bought more than enough openbeam to build one back when openbeam was new, but it never quite came together.

I really like the looks of both corexy and h-bot, but it seems like there’s a lot to consider when it comes to the kinematics and construction. I think I’d prefer the corexy.

My printer will live in my garage, which is unheated, basically uninsulated, dusty, and can get pretty humid. I think this means it should have an enclosure. I want to print PC-CF, so I’ll need a 300C hotend.

Overall, what I want is:

As much as possible, use parts I already have
Print engineering plastics
Minimum 200x200 print size
Enclosure compatible
Reduce cost where sensible
Klipper

What I already have is:

A 1200W 12V psu
5x NEMA17 motors
2x NEMA34 motors
6x 500mm lengths of openbeam
5x 1000mm lengths of openbeam
6x NEMA17 motor brackets for openbeam
4x DRV8825 stepstick drivers (maybe a 5th somewhere)
raspberry pi 4B
Tons of dev boards (Pi pico, black pill, blue pill, stm32F4 discovery, etc)
Tons of plywood, MDF, etc
A couple of friends with 3D printers who will probably help

I expect I’ll need to buy belts, pulleys, bearings, linear slides, a hot bed, enclosure panels.

What’s the best way to use this to make an excellent corexy printer? I’ve been thinking of using the Rosalind design as a starting point. I like the idea of keeping the motors out of the heated area. I also like the idea of keeping the filament in an enclosure due to the humidity.

Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?

yet-another-average-joe — Wed, 11 Jan 2023 18:07:06 -0500

Quote
Ed3D
@ the_digital_dentist

How are you preventing rotation of the extrusion as you tighten the bolt using the method you show on the first page

Very little chance it will happen, for many reasons ; steel has less friction against aluminium than aluminium against aluminium ; surfaces are orders of magnitude away (but Amonton second law explains it has no influence...). The axial force is way higher than rotational force and friction force is proportional to pressure. Only a few threads are in contact with each others, forces are applied in such a way than torque become negligible etc.

At worst, a very simple trick I was taught decades ago : if you don't want two surfaces to slip, just apply something that will prevent this to happen ! An old mechanic trick is to apply some abarsive between the two surfaces. Chalk is (was) very common for conical junctions (like flywheel/crankshaft : but don't do it, it makes it extremely difficult to take apart later !!! Could also be some grinding paste, like valve (fine) grinding paste, or some emery, or even a "gasket" made of sand paper. Sand paper is a well known trick of the trade that machinists have been using for ages when tightening parts of slighly dissimilar widths in a milling machine vice, for gang machining. Just some very fine sand mixed with some grease is enough to prevent any rotation (rotation that will never happen while tightening blind joints ; if it happens, it's because you didn't properly use the tap, or the tap is just an out of specs crap ; or the screws are themselves out of specs, or the ends are not flat...). Few people konw it : when torqing king a bolt (using a torque wrench), threads and screw head (or nut) have to be lubricated.

Blind joints : maximize friction between the parts, and minimize friction between the threads, and between the screw head and the part. And that's it !

I'm sure some abrasive toothpaste is more than enough ! (Pepsodent or Ultrabrite for example)

Was thinking of this thread today, while assembling a frame on a metrology surface plate. Did it several times, attempting to make the parts rotating and slipping... The surface plate makes it easy to see if there's any movement between the parts No way ! Was unable to make anything rotate (while using Grower washers under the CHC screw heads, without lubricating threads and not using abrasive between the extrusions).

Re: Cartesian X weight reduction?

the_digital_dentist — Tue, 20 Dec 2022 09:05:44 -0500

We had a hobbyist grade printer at the makerspace several years ago that had a folded sheet metal frame and used NEMA-14 motors for all three axes. It worked fine until the PLA printed parts failed. I can't recall the brand, but the CEO of the company used to stand on top of a printer while it was running to demonstrate the rigidity.

Re: Cartesian X weight reduction?

dekutree64 — Tue, 20 Dec 2022 03:20:47 -0500

Check out rq3's extruder threads in the tech-talk section. He's gotten as low as 42 grams including the motor.

As for the X motor, it can at least be a shorter length NEMA17 than the Y axis. NEMA14 may work, but my guess is that you'd be better off enlarging the Y motor instead. The smaller motor would allow higher Y acceleration without print quality issues due to frame rigidity/vibration, but whether that will result in higher usable print speed depends on whether the NEMA14 can accelerate the printhead at the same rate without missing steps. Ideally you'd want to rig it up with an encoder or other measurement method so you can experimentally find the maximum acceleration rate you can safely use.

If you make the X motor closed loop, then you can push it closer to the limit. You still don't want to be missing steps on a regular basis because it will show up in the print as delayed motion, but with open loop you need a wide safety margin to be sure that the whole print isn't ruined by one missed step.

But really it seems pointless to go to such lengths when you could switch to CoreXY or crossed rail and eliminate the moving motor weight entirely.

Cartesian X weight reduction?

aamcle — Mon, 19 Dec 2022 19:13:59 -0500

Cartesian Printer - falling bed.

Firstly I don't want to use a Bowden setup and I thinking of a build plate of 200x200mm.

If I use a light weight printhead assembly do I really need a Nema17 at the end of the axis or can I use the lighter Nema14?

What are your thoughts on an Orbiter and an E3dV6 as the printhead assembly?

Considering most of the weight is in the motors are there any othere ways to get the weight down?

ATB. AAMCLE

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Thu, 06 Jan 2022 22:38:31 -0500

[attachment 119067 MoQSslesGgcnVmRsvZFq.JPG]

[attachment 119068 jf6I6SQGHDPVzuu8RvbK--50--33592_8x.jpg]

This has to be the most fun you can have with old 3D Printer Pics

[attachment 119069 1kxHkURGKD4asDnRA1Oz.JPG][attachment 119070 uXfVCKEUqVIeIr2WeBe0.jpg]

[attachment 119071 uXfVCKEUqVIeIr2WeBe0--50--FVWJR.jpg]

[attachment 119072 uXfVCKEUqVIeIr2WeBe0--100--EUAEZ.jpg]

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Fri, 17 Dec 2021 09:36:15 -0500

Hooray up she rises...

Wondering if the crack is going to be a problem....could be I never normally print 3 perim, usually 4, so this could be a much weaker wall, though it only has to sit there and look pretty, previous cases tested out different idea's for doors & lids, but I decided I wanted a one piece box 80x80 to match the fan for lid, sure a 40mm on the side would be plenty, but wanted a big black obelisk, hopefully enough space for the smoothers to save printing a second box.

To save printing material I was tempted to print something like a chinese lantern, with just a base & lid & some translucent material from the LCD screen rolled into a tube but i'm out of superglue so the obelisk won.

A few hours later I was wishing I went with the lantern idea, the print started to crawl...click click click, goes the extruder, had been doing it for quite a while before I had to abort, Z seemed stuck.
I checked build height in SW but it was fine so now i'm thinking maybe the firmware has a different height.

So had to print a lid after all.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Wed, 15 Dec 2021 06:27:33 -0500

I thought the 3D Printer might see more use in lockdown, but there wasnt much I wanted to build & the world doesnt need much of what gets produced, & there was nothing I needed, so the printer sat there for at least a year with the roll exposed. Then something crops up you think you need...

I wanted to use these old couch legs to raise the base of the printer(though I wasnt too sure i'd want to keep it this way), allowing me some extra space to put the gubbins, but the bolts running through where longer than needed. Now I thought for a while about a bracket for the psu & a new ramps enclosure, but figuring out a metal alternative, saves a load of time printing. If only I thought sooner about getting the hacksaw out for the leg bolts, it might have been another year before turning it on.

Pulled a few old monitor to bits and found a few interesting sheets of material & perspex...and what look like 3 pieces of sorbothane, seems to do the job would be even better on a paving slab, all the legs where slightly different so 4 legs was impossible & I only had 3 pieces of the stuff,

Re arranged the Ramps instead of printing another box...for now...while I mull over final placement either on back of right hand column or under the base, a box with enough room for the smoothers is quite a big box,

So thats enough excitement & waste plastic for this year
Anyone waiting for the 32bit update, might have to wait a little longer, havent touched that in a year either. I thought the printer would be the start of building bigger & better machines to do more elaborate stuff, larger routers etc...but space, money & actual ideas for things you want to build(more costs & no clients), so much potential, but I wonder how many others are re-evaluting how you want to live out the remaining time of life in the current climate, & with inflation all around I'm wondering the cost of a build these days, some crazy prices on the web...

Building the Dream will have to be virtual from now on. If only I could get my hands on a threadripper & rtx card, should be available at a decent price in another 10 yrs.

Re: Connecting extruded aluminium?

wildone — Mon, 29 Nov 2021 18:26:36 -0500

Quote
Lee ***
I would like to order 500mm of the following extrusion manufactured by MiSUMi Japan.

EFS6-30300

[uk.misumi-ec.com]

MiSUMi will not sell this extrusion in the USA. I need a supplier that can ship it to me in the U.S.A.

If anyone knows of a supplier that can process this order for me it would be appreciated.

Thanks.

slf

Try here
[us.misumi-ec.com]

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Wed, 25 Aug 2021 21:04:53 -0400

For the Child in Everyone

01_choose_colour.jpg

[www.mecabricks.com]

[www.youtube.com]

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Wed, 05 May 2021 08:12:05 -0400

While wondering about the size of cast plate, say 310x360 I realized my current 3 points where based on the 200mm side Z 3030 profiles and the 3 points would be inside heatmat area, not an issue with the piece of wood I had (if heatmat was going ontop)but something that needed a little alteration if I want to fit a heater under an alu plate. Lucky I had 2x300mm pieces not in use. So swapped them over, pretty quick & painless, this time i decided to make sure each side was same height by propping them up with the profile I removed. Not sure on heatmat 24v or mains, ideally the 24v to work with the mosfet I have & the PSU, but I also like the idea of a seperate mains bed that you could set temp from its own controller but some of those PID controllers cost a lot more than another pro 32 bit board...so does it make any sense.

New 12v PSU arrived not quite as passive as was made out, or in the pics as far as I remember...and the fan is always on, maybe a tad quieter than current psu, but not tried it under printer load...thin alu material, not sure I really trust it, but easily concealed on printer frame.

Relocated the control box with a little mount so its more flush, & improve wire routing, but I know at some stage i'd prefer the control side hidden with the mirrors & order some one way film for the front, but for that to happen the mirrors need cutting to size.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Tue, 04 May 2021 13:41:47 -0400

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Mon, 03 May 2021 10:49:01 -0400

Perhaps, unless I do a Special Installment, ie How to BLOW UP an SKR! I think that might be more popular, maybe a NetFlix Screening?

I dropped a pre configured bin on the SD, it kinda seemed to like it...but computa say's dunno what your talkin about pal.... can't see anything down the long or the short USB cable.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

leadinglights — Mon, 03 May 2021 05:20:20 -0400

Next year??? First I get told that I will have to wait until next year for the next series of "Line of Duty" and now I have to wait until next year to know how you configure the SKR 8-)
Mike

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Sun, 02 May 2021 08:21:40 -0400

Thought I'd reprint the lid, lighter settings but I knew adding the chamfer would increase the chance of a warp but I managed to de-warp it, moved the bed bearing into the dead space so I can go a little lower, but not really a lot of Z in this maybe 250 max, moved the PSU to be more central inline with bed risers helped to neaten cables, holding back on a panel/PSU box, as a one piece solution would be really tall, or in plan, i'd need about 380mm, so it would be a few large parts, I'm not sure I can be bothered with the whole thing, just need the connector end covering & nice place to plug in...pity I dont have a few glowing switches to add to a panel, but I need a plate to mount the buck converter & maybe the SSR/Mosfet.

decided to wire up the extruder stepper & got lucky first time with wire order, and also found a use for the single stepper driver thing I bought, testing each of the steppers where all ok, Z seemed to struggle though in one direction, the driver is running off a 5v battery supply, but made me wonder about Y axis gearing, & maybe I've made the 100oz stepper less powerful or more?

also have a little round nema I could use seems heavier & better made than the one in use but very short shaft. At some point the carriage will be reprinted as one part rather than the 3 plus 2 metal parts to 1+1.

Tune in Next Year when the SKR finally gets configurized.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Fri, 30 Apr 2021 06:43:34 -0400

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Thu, 29 Apr 2021 00:56:52 -0400

I dont have much faith in this extruder stepper, not sure it's upto the job but had it coz it was cheap 5 yrs back, and I feel sure that if I get a nicer possibly bigger black one, I aint got much wiggle room with the belt path, so that may need a rejig once again, if only I had the same idler/motor plates but with only one row of holes, I could have the belt path a little lower, or make custom parts for the ends of the 2020 for even lower belt path.

Testing the new roll of PLA-F ? thought the F was just some ebay listing tactic, anyway despite the 0.03 tolerance I thought i'd give it a whirl, as the spool looked all neatly wound...well when it arrived it wasnt, and even the spool was different, the temps say 210 - 240 my printer set at 206 (and I'm not sure I have things setup to go past 210, I might need to change the FW if I can with gcode that would be better than a recompile, anyway printing at 208 and everything seems ok. Now for the hotend I already had the cart plate made, so rather than print another design, I thought I'd see if I could just add to it, now the motors on X have been moved, I really didnt want it so high up top, previous belt path was tight, ie tricky to design for, because of the belt path. this way it keeps it simple. I was tempted to just put the V6 in as it would make things lighter and even simpler, but I only had one 24v cartridge which was a real pain to put in so it isnt coming out. I might get one of the Dragon type hotends with the bi-metal heatbreak so many to choose from on alixpress...like a candy store compared to ebay.

The print above was the last print of the roll, didnt know if there was enough left, just made it with about 2m left, these pics are of the new filament, no adjustments, everything started fine, but really 4perim & 4 top & bottom was asking for trouble, this stuff doesnt seem to like the hairspray so in future I need to make sure that side isnt the main visible surface, unless I did some extra work on it, so functional small parts only,...really wanted to cover the meanwell, as it doesnt have that one little thing the cheaper led ones have Contact Guards.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Tue, 27 Apr 2021 02:06:58 -0400

So close but yet so far...thank god I didnt go the ATOM route, VS Code & Platform IO what a pain, at first I changed a few things hit compile and it didnt want to know, eventually I have it compiling got a few errors & solved them, but this last one persists

###### you made a hash of it you idiot #####

Now I'm trying to configure it without a screen and have a nagging suspicion that maybe it cant be used without?

Everyone else seems to use bugfix, I first tried stable release then tried another which was for skr dip, I've ended up with that many files open its hard to know wtf is going on...It says you need to select environment which seemed to be correct on the skr specific fw, then the program tells you to set LPC1768....which I hadnt seen anywhere....anyway Ive done that and it seems to have compiled with a success, lets hope the correct files are on the board and I can start playing with the motors to see if they are configured in the right direction

Though just because it compiled doesnt mean it will work, Cura recognized a creality....but cura doesnt have any motor movers....all other slicers could find it. So Sod it for now....other things to be getting on with as a new roll arrived, found another 12v passive cooled psu slimline 22mm high, looking forward to replacing old one for a more discrete & quiet unit.

Well I discovered one reason for it not working but it still gets me nowhere, as I was getting my head down, you realize I only hit build not upload....and the sd card was neither in computer or board....so I tackled it again, was not happy with this LPC1768 env so tried to use default again as this was supposed to be for the board in use. Once again doesnt compile, then I look for the bin files or what was written where, and find something compiled LRV drivers when obviously I told it A4988....anyway as predicted it wasnt going to be a walk in the park (the curse of BTT)

and this VS code sucks too, environment within environment just clutters the screen, downloaded the marlin add on & that sucks too as it only works for ramps, files & trees everywhere...

So I'll be either leaving it till next year...or torching it live on YT not decided yet, a4988 FW bin is on disk I'll see what that does....pity you cant just alter a bin file with a text editor....I thought these skr boards could also run smoothieware that would have been the preferred way of working.

Compounding the issue my roll of PLA which the seller called PLA-F which was perfectly would in the item pictures, turned out to be nothing like the pics, different spool to, so who knows what this translucent high temp stuff will turn out like???

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Sun, 25 Apr 2021 00:22:33 -0400

Tinker Tailor Solder Buy, Now I have the bed rising to a better level I need to make a new Xcart mount to rearrange things a little, I wanted to see just how close it goes and if its level in relation to the head, it seems almost perfect in the direction between the leadscrews, and if it isnt maybe I can adjust angle via the leadscrews. as for the other direction i had noticed a tilt towards the front side, but I think that is also to do with the position of the screws on one side of the block, or the 2 screws each side in the bearing block, so I plan to check & fiddle and see if it can be improved. When filament arrive I may print something for the bottom half of the bearing block that can provide additional support, stop the tilt or provide adjustment. I bought 2 rolls of PETG by mistake, thinking it was the same pla I ran out of, but after buying I noticed it was PETG, (£22 for 2) I previously wanted to try PETG but the one I really wanted to try was ASA, but a 35 per roll and only 2 choices on ebay, i'll wait a while. The wood I have for the base was rotated 90deg making it narrower & allowing even more travel.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Thu, 22 Apr 2021 21:40:29 -0400

With one print left on the roll I decided on a fan shroud/mount...this thing isnt going to like getting very hot so at some point when the ideal hotend/extruder/mount combo reveals itself to me, this will have to do for now. First ever print using support settings...failed at the end, as it was releasing from the bed, and it hit a curl.

While I get to grips with Marlin 2(deep in'it), just modding an ender profile, removing any bells & whistles, running with A4988's for now as the choice of tmc's & revisions of tmc's and dud's, I have to be sure before splurging, and there's no real way of knowing yet if the boards even working...I assumed there would already be firmware on the board...doesnt seem to be as it cant be seen on the USB (Maple driver showing issue).

Anyway I finally decided which machine to put it on, the cube, which is already wired up with ramps on 12v, so once I copy the settings I forgot, I'll swap it out for the skr(if I get it going). Ended up getting the meanwell 350 in the end, after missing out on a cheap black dell psu that looked like the normal LED psu's but looked better made...So the cheap control board better be worth it, they just released a new board a few days back, not sure the price on that.

The bed on the cube needs finalizing, as does the carriage, previously had to dangle the hotend quite low but now I've built up the bed a little, I'm figuring out new dimensions for the dangle & filament drive, might be a good idea to be able to switch from direct to bowden easily.
I'm thinking of screwing 3 point system into this chopping board, some inserts into the wood on underside then some screw thing to attach to the U shaped spans, though I'm also on the look out for other hardware that could be used, maybe ball & socket for the fixed point, maybe rod ends, or anything else I can find or suggested.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Sun, 11 Apr 2021 14:58:24 -0400

Almost at the end of the roll....don't think I have enough left for the lid, considering I live by the sea & the roll has been out of wrapper for a year, I'd say it performed great to the last drop. Toying with the idea of a base for this case so it could hide some cables, otherwise I could have done more to manage the cables internally, maybe on the back of the lid, could have put a larger fan on the lid as I dont really know what these 24v 40mm's sound like. Wondering about a small silent 24v psu, a little cheaper & smaller than the slim meanwell 350, I dont have any 24v psu's but I suppose one good one is worth investing in, or something even beefier with other stepdown units? Scratch that the smaller the better...maybe a laptop psu, no heatbed at the moment.

Re: HyperCube OverKill Build Log

shanehooper — Thu, 08 Apr 2021 20:50:16 -0400

I've always wondered about the Igus rail. Did you move it around enough to measure backlash, slop or repeatability? I've heard others that tried a similar Igus rail say that it wasn't good for the application. I'm hard headed though and think that any slop should be adjusted out. Maybe a spring loaded mechanism or something if it doesn't decrease rigidity.

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Mon, 29 Mar 2021 18:09:02 -0400

Looks like I didnt have to worry about the ship sinking, this little guy must have helped out, it was only after hitting the buy button I realized the DIP was 1.1, not sure what the issues with the board are, or if i'll run into them, let's hope the issues are avoidable, marlin 2 here i come, even had a microsd in the bag.

Suppose by the time I get some 2209's it might be more cost effective to get a better board?

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Sat, 27 Mar 2021 02:17:25 -0400

wondering if my SKR will be taking a dip in the Suez canal, fine weather for it

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Mon, 22 Mar 2021 19:24:04 -0400

now the hotend is £11 on ebay i've been robbed :) maybe 2 would be even sexier, one for each ear, beam me up Scotty. Maybe buy a few and flog em for £40 B)

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Sun, 21 Mar 2021 17:05:08 -0400

Decided to buy this sexy stainless hotend(£14) Some Italian trying it on on ebay wanting £46 for this, even though I could see alternate, newer, better options, even though it might bring no end of issues? Mounting a fan & duct not ideal, also the 24v heater I have doesnt fit due to the sleeving over the joins and alternate solution will be needed(got it in, forgot the paste? nothing suitable to hand, no retaining screw), and I suppose a good time to go high temp, M4 thermistor think I need this one....[www.ebay.co.uk]

but not sure I could get that working with the SKR Dip...may decide it's best in the cube printer due to the direct drive making it easier to grip/mount this hotend, but not sure plastic bmg types are ideal either(scratch that it doesnt fit) so might need another metal version.

Idler arrived to tidy the other machine up

Re: MechaBits KraftWerk'r

MechaBits — Tue, 09 Mar 2021 05:55:25 -0500

Cheers Mike here's a couple with the lights on.

Printer decided to play space invaders while waiting for the cowl to finish.
Idler for X still on the boat, still undecided on new hotend parts, wondering if doing away with the 3rd Z bearing would be too detrimental, might look better with slight rearrangement, ie one metal bearing housing and the other by the motor 3d printed but with a longer bearing, will get a shorter shaft for the bed idler at some point and if I can find the 8mm flange bearings i'll slip them in.
I wish there was a little more choice on 40mm fans, the standard 40mm has some nice contours that this LED one doesnt have or can't be seen, i'd prefer the outer part black & just the blades glowing some patterns would be cool.....I can wait. I think the slits on the side mount part cooling fans are probably too wide at 4mm was going to go thinner, maybe next time, I doubt i'll be needing them anyway just put them there for a little flexibility in the future. Maybe move filament roll of top of Z, though I can hit the column quite had without any noticeable movement

Tempted to get a little skr board to neaten things up a little more compared to a bulky ramps sandwich.