Reprap Forum - Extruded Aluminum Frames Cartesian XYZ machines with frames made of extruded aluminum, T-Slot, Makerslide, and more. See http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Aluminum. Previously named Extruded Aluminum https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?177 Wed, 15 Apr 2026 13:04:25 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,896443,896443#msg-896443 Cartesian pen plotter (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,896443,896443#msg-896443 I've decided to build a cartesian pen plotter that will have a work surface the size of A4 paper. I am attaching a picture of the 3D model to give a better idea.

For X axis movement NEMA17 with trapezoidal threaded rod and linear guide with carriage.
The Y axis is double, otherwise the same as the X axis.
For Z axis movement I use an MG90S micro servo and linear guide rods and linear bearings.

The endstops are installed as follows:
X_min and X_max
Y1_min, Y2_min and Y1_max
For the Z axis I have not planned the endstops yet, as I think they are not needed since I am using a servo.

I already have the design done and have started with the marlin configuration, which I am a bit lost in.

I have set up, driver types, extruder setup, power supply, temperature sensors etc I skipped. However, I couldn't find anywhere to set the dual Y axis and set the Y2_min to the Z_min connector on the Ramps 1,4. Overall, maybe this firmware is a bit overkill for my needs, there are many features in the cofiguration that I won't even use. Which makes me a bit confused in the cofiguration.

How do I set up the dual Y axis and endstops correctly?
Should I try to reconfigure the Marlin, or should I look for some other alternative?
Is there a Marlin configuration for at least some similar device? As far as I looked, unfortunately I couldn't find anything.

Thank you very much for any recommendations and advice.]]> Vojta_Vojta Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 19 Jan 2025 10:27:49 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,892016,892016#msg-892016 Carteasian top speed? (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,892016,892016#msg-892016
So I want to do a rebuild, my choices are to keep the very stable Carteasian setup redesigning it to save some more bed space and move the electronics or rebuild as CoreXY which would print faster.

What I would like advice about is a likely top print speed (direct drive preferred to bowden) of a Carteasian printer based on 3030 extrusion?

I realise it less than CoreXY.

Thanks All.

aamcle]]> aamcle Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 19 Mar 2024 23:40:14 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,891920,891920#msg-891920 First 3D printer build, hoping to use my stash of OpenBeam (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,891920,891920#msg-891920
I really like the looks of both corexy and h-bot, but it seems like there’s a lot to consider when it comes to the kinematics and construction. I think I’d prefer the corexy.

My printer will live in my garage, which is unheated, basically uninsulated, dusty, and can get pretty humid. I think this means it should have an enclosure. I want to print PC-CF, so I’ll need a 300C hotend.

Overall, what I want is:
  • As much as possible, use parts I already have
  • Print engineering plastics
  • Minimum 200x200 print size
  • Enclosure compatible
  • Reduce cost where sensible
  • Klipper

What I already have is:
  • A 1200W 12V psu
  • 5x NEMA17 motors
  • 2x NEMA34 motors
  • 6x 500mm lengths of openbeam
  • 5x 1000mm lengths of openbeam
  • 6x NEMA17 motor brackets for openbeam
  • 4x DRV8825 stepstick drivers (maybe a 5th somewhere)
  • raspberry pi 4B
  • Tons of dev boards (Pi pico, black pill, blue pill, stm32F4 discovery, etc)
  • Tons of plywood, MDF, etc
  • A couple of friends with 3D printers who will probably help

I expect I’ll need to buy belts, pulleys, bearings, linear slides, a hot bed, enclosure panels.

What’s the best way to use this to make an excellent corexy printer? I’ve been thinking of using the Rosalind design as a starting point. I like the idea of keeping the motors out of the heated area. I also like the idea of keeping the filament in an enclosure due to the humidity.]]> Annirak Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 10 Sep 2024 20:14:47 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,891409,891409#msg-891409 Cartesian X weight reduction? (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,891409,891409#msg-891409
Firstly I don't want to use a Bowden setup and I thinking of a build plate of 200x200mm.

If I use a light weight printhead assembly do I really need a Nema17 at the end of the axis or can I use the lighter Nema14?

What are your thoughts on an Orbiter and an E3dV6 as the printhead assembly?

Considering most of the weight is in the motors are there any othere ways to get the weight down?

ATB. AAMCLE]]> aamcle Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 20 Dec 2022 09:05:44 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,880622,880622#msg-880622 Openbuilds VulcanMAX build missi (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,880622,880622#msg-880622 Openbuilds VulcanMAX

I'm thinking of changing from the original instruction
  • the X-axis from using aluminium extrusion into a linear rod transmission.(like Prusa)
  • 2004 reprap LCD screen
  • Z axis transmission like Prusa/Anet 3D printer.
  • PrusaBear X-axis carriage
  • Bondtech BMG dual drive extruder
  • E3D V6 hotend (it's a clone.not a real thang;))
  • dual Z drive (prusa)
  • and some more (just can't figure out what)
The rest stays the same. I'll update it if there's any changes

I hope you fellow tech-guru are willing to share some of your knowledge and help me accomplish this build. I imagine it's gonna be a hell of a ride but with good understanding it's going to be easy.(tu)]]> fkh06 Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 19 Jan 2021 19:46:27 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,878546,878546#msg-878546 Trampling the axis rods? (4 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,878546,878546#msg-878546
Rotating axis rod causes the "cross rod" bracket to visibly rise and fall when the bracket is half way along the rotating axis rod.

I checked the rod before I fitted it by rolling it on a piece of glass and it seemed straight.

Either it's bent or one of the end bearing brackets is high or low. Are brackets printed in PETg rigid enough to flex the rod?

The brackets are 1piece construction comprising of both the bearings at 90° to each other. So I know that the rod to rod vertical distance is correct.

I have a spare but before I try it I need to read up how to setup and fault find the motion system.

If you would recommend a resource I can read I would appreciate it.

I'm beginning to think that the Ultimaker system is more complex than I had realised. A simpler system like the old Makerbot might have been an easier build.

I'll get there ... :)

I can post a video tomorrow if it's needed.

Thanks All.

Aamcle]]> aamcle Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 09 Nov 2020 19:45:50 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,874940,874940#msg-874940 Frame design suggestions: Large CoreXY printer (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,874940,874940#msg-874940
I started a project on designing and building a big 500x500 build area CoreXY 3D printer with the intent of mostly building it for myself. But I will work on improvements and fixes along the way and in the end publish it on Thingiverse. So having a design that everyone can build is definitely a part of what I'm aiming for.

The printer has a 720x740mm footprint, and it uses 2040 extrusions for the most part. Most the corners and joints will be mounted using blind joints and then braced with both corner brackets and plates for the maximum rigidity in those joints, though it's not shown in the pictures.
The goal is to have a printer that is capable of both printing big parts using big nozzles and small parts using small nozzles (with quick-change x-carriage) at a decent speed (100mm/s). Ringing is definitely something I want to minimize with a printer this big, so having a rigid frame and wide belts is important.

I would like to hear some thoughts on the design of the frame. Do I need to upgrade to 4040 extrusions or is this current design going to be rigid enough? What improvements can be made to make the frame more rigid?
I have already designed most of the basic parts required for the printer to function, so I'd prefer to keep the current frame profile if possible, and adding reinforcements may be better than redesigning all the parts touching the extrusions.

(the pictures attached have the frame isolated, but the X and Z gantry extrusions are also included)

Thanks!

PS: the four 2020 extrusions I put at the bottom are partly for mounting electronics, but It'd be interesting to hear if they would stop any shearing in the frame.]]> CrazyBlackStone Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 19 Oct 2024 07:13:42 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,874245,874245#msg-874245 Working slider in aluminium extrusion on Z axis (10 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,874245,874245#msg-874245
I am new to this forum but I felt to create an account and share this linear movement solution I created.

A few months ago I set out to custom build a new I3 style printer, out of an older and discarded machine. I decided to use 2040 extrusions because of its rigidity and the project worked out pretty well. While building, I learned a lot about linear movement and it basically almost always comes down to a bearing system fastened on top of a frame, where you see that the two functions (construction and movement) are handled by separate physical components (frame and linear bearings).

It dawned to me that the extrusions I was working with have these nice slots running over the full length and I started to wonder if I could integrate the construction and movement functions into 1 component: the aluminium extrusion itself.

After some experimenting and iterating, I came up with a working system which uses 4 of the 6 slots. It is very low on backlash as the 4 sliders compensate one another greatly. Further, because the little backlash, the fit is quite tight and to compensate I applied a bit of bearing grease to the slider and the slot itself. Finally, the moving carriage is fashioned with a piece of 4mm aluminum rod over the full length. This makes the carriage to mainly run metal to metal (with grease in between). The plastic is there, mainly for keeping the metal in the right place.
You can see the proof of concept working here: [www.instagram.com]

After this working proof of concept, I decided to use my custom I3 as the guinea pig. I redesigned the z axis to get rid of the 8mm aluminium rod and added the slot carriage to it. First, I did one side, with the original system remaining on the other side. After this proved to be successful, the other side was updated as well. After just minor fine tuning, the machine worked again. And to be honest, it is better at layer consistency than it was before.
You can see the I3 in action here: [www.instagram.com]

A couple of advantages of this system:
- It is more compact than a traditional system.
- It is quiet, as there are no bearing balls moving all the time
- It is durable for the same reason as above
- It is far cheaper than traditional systems
- I now have 2, 8mm rods that I have reused to further strengthen my frame B)

I am very curious about what the community thinks of this idea. I am looking forward to your input and questions, and see if it can be improved further. Hopefully the I3 can be upgraded on the X and Y axis as well in the future.]]> joostvl Extruded Aluminum Frames Fri, 06 Nov 2020 17:59:05 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,871524,871524#msg-871524 Z / X Design feedback request (12 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,871524,871524#msg-871524
I purchased some linear rails which were originally going to be used for Y axis but have instead gone for a VSlot gantry. So I was thinking of putting the linear rails to use replacing the smooth rods on Z Axis.

This is my draft idea and was wondering what people think and if there are any possible problems I have not thought about. Using similar design to current prusa i3 style, linear rails on side of 2040 extrusion because attaching from the front would be nightmare with belt and leadscrew in the way.

Opposite side will then match but with idler.

[attachment 115393 ZAxisLRDraft.png]]]> Via Extruded Aluminum Frames Fri, 01 May 2020 07:03:33 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,871014,871014#msg-871014 Prusa i3 finally completed - upgrade suggestions. (10 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,871014,871014#msg-871014
I would like to point out this has been my first sojourn into 3d printing with very little background electronics knowledge.

Looking for suggestions for improving the original design specs. at this stage I plan to keep the Megatronics v2.0, but all else if open for suggestions.

1. What firmware, latest Marlin version has been uploaded?
2. Control software, I have been using Fusion 360 CAD, would Meshmixer be suitable??
3. Do I need additional slicing software?
4. Open to all suggestions.

Thank you all for your input in advance.]]> wamaker Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 21 May 2020 07:44:43 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,870804,870804#msg-870804 Firmware/control board preferences (6 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,870804,870804#msg-870804
The Duet WIFI is currently high on my radar because it has some nice features I'd like. Direct connect WIFI, load/print from SD, recovery, 24V and 32bit. My concerns about going with the Duet would be firmware. I'm pretty comfortable setting up Marlin and there's very good support for it as it seems the most popular. Reprap firmware seems a bit more reclusive and far less search hits when looking for info..

-Aside of going to g-code for firmware programming, will I see any major differences?
-Are there options that might be missing from RR that Marlin has?
-Any features of one over the other that might be significant?


If anyone has experience with both the firmware's I'd very much like to hear an opinion if you prefer one over the other and why. Any opinions on a mainboard for a simple XY machine are also very welcome.

Thanks,
NRJ]]> Navin_R_Johnson Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 19 Apr 2020 18:30:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,870189,870189#msg-870189 Inverted T gantry printer (8 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,870189,870189#msg-870189 new vitamins. I believe I've got a design that requires me to purchase only a 100-tooth closed GT2 belt; I think everything else I can source from within my house.

To do this, I came up with a gantry mechanism that's a hybrid of a elements I've seen on gantry printers and gantry routers. So far, I haven't come up with the downsides that must exist... Usually when I have an idea that I haven't seen anyone else do before, there's a reason that I haven't seen it before.

My design is hacked up in OpenSCAD with various libraries so it's not easy to play with (no IGES or STEP to point to), and it models only what I found necessary to be confident of fit generally, and that only well enough to give me that confidence. So lots of parts are missing from the model. But here are some renders and animated renders that should give the idea...

Thanks to the_digital_dentist I plan a kinematic mount though the adjusting blocks aren't in these renders; that's a solved problem.

First, here's an animation of all three axes moving together. Click on the pictures to see the animations. They aren't very useful without seeing them move!



To show various perspectives, four animated renders, animating the rendering on different axes.









Here's the gantry raised to max Z to show which parts move when Z moves.





I'm interested in thoughts, questions, criticism, ideas, or information before I start cutting up my spare bits of v-slot! ☺
]]> mcdanlj Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 24 May 2020 08:36:07 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,863469,863469#msg-863469 Simle linear cube (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,863469,863469#msg-863469 nedávno jsem vytvořil novou 3D tiskárnu a rád bych věděl, co si o tom myslíte. Jakékoli komentáře, kritiky nebo diskuse jsou vítány.
Zde je odkaz.
[www.thingiverse.com]
Děkuji.]]> perklus Extruded Aluminum Frames Sat, 16 Nov 2024 05:32:14 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,860604,860604#msg-860604 Cross bracing 2020? (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,860604,860604#msg-860604
If you have tried to use braces now did you get on?

Any links and pictures or even builds?


Thanks All.


Aamcle]]> aamcle Extruded Aluminum Frames Fri, 11 Oct 2019 04:08:46 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,860574,860574#msg-860574 MGN12C vs MGN12H (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,860574,860574#msg-860574 not to use 12C carriages? Would I run into any problems with 12C carriages?]]> bartolomeus Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 22 Oct 2019 02:54:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,858128,858128#msg-858128 Best print head mount option on X-axis (12 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,858128,858128#msg-858128 It introduces a bit of wobble at the nozzle.
I want to minimize that wobble by adding a second linear bearing/rail. Three options I'm considering are shown as A, B and C in the attachment.
What might be the best way to go... A, B, C? I'm thinking "B". Or another approach?
Thanks much.]]> DanL Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 31 Dec 2019 02:41:50 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,857350,857350#msg-857350 Critique and opinions wanted on printer design. (3 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,857350,857350#msg-857350
- Footprint of no larger than 600x600mm (currently 600x380).
- MGN12 linear rails on all axis.
- Dual synchronous belt driven x and y axis (idea borrowed from Neil Rosenberg's dash-x at openbuilds.com).
- Ultimaker style crossed gantrys with twin carbon tubes and igus JSM-1012-10 bushings (borrowed from Tech2c's Hypercube build).
- The space in the frame to the right will be used for control board (possibly SKR 1.3), LCD, PSU, bowden extruder and spool holder.
- Build area set to 300x230mm so far.
- Buildplate made of 6mm alu tooling plate with 220v silicon heater and mounted with maxwell kinematic setup (idea from Mark Rehorst).
- E3d v6 hotend with 40mm fan for the heatsink and dual 5015 radial fans for parts cooling (need to do some tests/mods beforehand to see if the dual fans will work as intended).
- Frame of 3030 extrusions and 2020 on the z axis to save a bit of weight.
- If possible to source (twin axle stepper) 0,9deg steppers on the x and y axis.

Still not certain I need the 24v PSU, 0.9deg steppers or if the dual z leadscrew will hold up in terms of stability.

The printer is still under design and the model might be a bit simplified or missing parts atm. But please fire away with suggestions, questions and corrections.]]> Svendse9 Extruded Aluminum Frames Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:42:09 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,855044,855044#msg-855044 Sizing extrusion for a printer build (8 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,855044,855044#msg-855044 ChickeNES Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 19 Jun 2019 12:49:08 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,853012,853012#msg-853012 Can I scale up a .stl but maintaining holes size? (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,853012,853012#msg-853012 Basically, what the title says.

I'm building a Wilson II, but the default files are for a 200x300x200 mm machine and I want to build it for a 300x300x300 mm.

So, for example, this file:



It contains holes for a 2020 frame, holes for M10 smooth rods, a NEMA 17 motor, the endstop, and a lot of screws.
And of course, if I scale that file for a 300x300 bed, all that stuff I mentioned doesn't fit anymore.


I have Blender and Meshmixer installed, and no, I'm not an expert in 3D modeling, pretty noob actually.


Thanks!
]]> EAX Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 12 May 2019 11:24:14 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,851401,851401#msg-851401 Best X and Y Axis Design? (3 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,851401,851401#msg-851401
I am looking to make a large format X and Y CNC router machine which will double as a printer when I add a Z axis, printing head, and heated bed. For it to work as both a router and a printer, I need to have the X and Y axis move the router, or printer head, over the bed area. I'm thinking the best way to do this is which extruded aluminum rails and some sort of bearing system. I've though of having belts to drive each axis, but it might be hard to find them in the size I need. My other idea was a set of rubber "grip wheels" attached to my motor which would drive the X and Y axis on a rail, with the motor fixed to the axis.

I'm trying to figure out which method would make more sense, which extrusion to use, and what bearing system I should have. I'm trying to make the whole system as cheap as possible, per usual!

The big issue is the size I need. I'm looking for the X and Y to be able to cover a 60" square (5 foot square). Any suggestions are welcome for how to achieve this, there are many options but I am looking to find one that is relatively cheap, and will have good tolerances.



I have a few odd little motor gearbox combinations which came from some WWII avionics equipment, which I plan to power the axis with. They are comparable to a stepper motor in size and power, and have a "fast" and "slow" coil inside for variable speeds. Originally they would drive a loop antenna back and forth to home on a signal. I'd attach an encoder to the output for a belt driven system, and if the wheel system would work, the encoder would read the rail itself. A picture of the motor CAD is attached. The blue highlighted shaft it the output. They run on 24 volts, but that's not an issue. I can pretty easily set up a relay board so that a computer can control them, given an on/off signal or PWM.]]> FCB17G Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 07 Aug 2019 06:49:52 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,850818,850818#msg-850818 Cutting v-slot extrusion (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,850818,850818#msg-850818 Hobby-Fab was the only one I knew of and they are out of business.]]> RC-CnC Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 07 Apr 2019 14:29:09 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845892,845892#msg-845892 y carriage for mk3 4030 heatbed? (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845892,845892#msg-845892 does anyone know if there's a y carriage for this heatbed? [www.reprap.me]]]> emaayan Extruded Aluminum Frames Fri, 01 Feb 2019 06:59:45 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845803,845803#msg-845803 Building a 3d printer - looking for some suggestions (6 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845803,845803#msg-845803
I have a good idea what I want to do with the Z-axis, but the X & Y axis is where I'm floundering a bit. I was originally thinking of using linear rods, at least 8mm, for all. I had been thinking of using two rods on either side for the Y axis, but that may be overkill and one on each side would probably be plenty, but then I was considering linear rails. For the X Axis, I'm thinking of something like the Flying bear, where the rods sit side by side and the print head drops down in between them.

That brings me to the other part I'm trying to figure out - the hot end. Of the hot ends out there, the E3D V6 seems to be pretty highly regarded, so I was originally thinking of that, but as I want it to be a dual extruder setup, trying to find something that would mount two E3D V6's was pretty much non-existent other than one setup meant for a delta printer. Then I noticed E3D's chimera hot end. I rather like it and I think that will probably be the way I want to go, but again, finding the appropriate carriage has been a bit of a challenge.

Ideally, I'd like to stay with pre-manufactured parts, and metal wherever possible. While I could 3d print parts, I'm not really sure the precision is there with the printer I have.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions for the pieces I'm having trouble with?]]> Cougar281 Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 06 Feb 2019 12:14:25 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845648,845648#msg-845648 Beware : Extruded profiles can be bended or twisted, while remaining standard ! (3 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845648,845648#msg-845648
While remaining perfectly within standards, the extruded profiles that can be purchased at retail may have curvatures or twists that are actually incompatible with linear, direct or indirect guidance applications.

The profiles are extruded in long lengths, then cut to size for resale. The problem is that, in the most common manufacturing processes, the central part of the extruded bars is generally quite straight. Curvature and twisting problems appear more towards the extremities.

When you buy a retail profile, you can find a straight, twisted or curved copy, depending on where it was cut, without being able to complain about a non-standard supply.

For direct guidance on the profile applications (as is often the case with deltas), it would be necessary to be able to sort the straight copies. If the extrusion supports another linear guide, such as the ubiquitous MGN12, special profiles should be used for this application, milled after extrusion, as proposed by MISUMI.

I think this problem is very common among consumer 3D printers, or DIY. To appreciate it, you need a granite control surface, you can't, generally, see it with the naked eye. But it's very real: you can have, on a 1m bar, up to several mm of camber or twisting!

I think it doesn't show up on the printed parts either, because other defects are present, and make this one secondary. But it is certain that a curved profile will impose its bending on the printed part. In some overconstrained kinematics, this can also cause mechanical problems.

For Zatsit, I made sure that the manufacturer only provided me with parts cut in the centre of the bars, and I bought a granite control slab, so that I could sort as a last resort.]]> M_Xeno Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 04 Feb 2019 15:33:10 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845194,845194#msg-845194 Carbon tubes --> longer then 1 meter (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,845194,845194#msg-845194 Does someone knows where ( in Europe ) can i buy carbon tubes that are longer then 1 meter and at least 2cm in diameter ?

Best regards !
Arnix]]> Arnix Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 23 Jan 2019 09:32:36 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,842202,842202#msg-842202 Linear Rail Cantilever printer build (8 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,842202,842202#msg-842202
I've seen Cantilever designs like the Cetus3D and wanted to give it a shot. I know they have some downsides but the simplicity is very appealing.

I've been working on this printer for a couple of weeks and wanted to document my progress as well as get some feedback on my design.

I'm lucky enough to have access to a CO2 laser so I have been prototyping with laser cut acrylic parts. Ideally all acrylic parts will be aluminium in the final printer but at the moment the design is still very fluid.

I'm still waiting on some parts to arrive so will be adding updates as they happen.

I'd love to hear your ideas.

[attachment 108897 0_MobileUpload2018-12-1823-56-34.jpg]]]> awratten Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 30 Dec 2018 19:58:07 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,841919,841919#msg-841919 4040 Open build profiles right angle joint - what's the best way? (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,841919,841919#msg-841919
I am thinking about something like on the picture below (using 4 bolts per corner), but I am worried that as a tight the bolts the profile will deform and that connection will not be stiff enough. Putting tubular spaces inside the profile sounds like a bit too much hassle. Is the triangular corner bracket really the only choice? Would 4 bolts link on each corner be enough to hold my y assembly together?
[attachment 108825 Image1.jpg]
[attachment 108826 Image2.jpg]]]> witor Extruded Aluminum Frames Wed, 19 Dec 2018 16:35:14 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,841387,841387#msg-841387 1 or 2 rails for y axis? (12 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,841387,841387#msg-841387
What about the carriages, one or two per rail?]]> witor Extruded Aluminum Frames Mon, 17 Dec 2018 20:06:23 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,841386,841386#msg-841386 Belt z axis - which gears? (9 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,841386,841386#msg-841386
I plan to use rails on all axis. I would like to have a horizontal rotating rod with timing pulleys on both ends driving belts on both sides lifting the z axis. Some think like in this video:

[www.youtube.com]

The question is how to link a motor to the rod. I have the following ideas:

1) Simple gears like in the video above. Advantages: Simple. Disadvantages: play on the gears. Z axis falling down under gravity. Printed gears wearing out and not being precise enough

2) Worm on the steper shaft and worm gear on the shaft (worm gearbox). Advantages: large gear ratio and resolution on z axis. Z axis will not fall under gravity. Disadvantage difficult to build using diy methods or expensive to buy.

3) Belt drive - small timing pulley on the stepper shaft large pulley on the rod. Advantages - simplicity. Disadvantage fall under gravity, small gear ratio, too many belts resulting in lower precision and play... but i really like this solution:

[www.youtube.com]

Simple and should have enougr resolution and precision for z axis.

What are you thoughts about the above 3 solutions?]]> witor Extruded Aluminum Frames Sun, 07 Apr 2019 15:20:47 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,839645,839645#msg-839645 Printer Design with Bearings on Extrusions (11 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?177,839645,839645#msg-839645
I finally wrote up a blog post here:
https://www.tolen3d.com/blog/designing-a-printer-farm-unit

I'm in the middle of a complete redesign, so comments welcome!






]]> gmedlicott Extruded Aluminum Frames Thu, 29 Nov 2018 13:20:02 -0500