Reprap Forum - Delta Machines

New Delta Model (no replies)

Mr.What — Wed, 04 Mar 2026 16:25:48 -0500

I'm working on a new delta model, which has more "error" parameters and an autocalibration capability. I'm working on a prototype using a Duet 3 mini 5+. Among the new parameters is a tilt to the towers. This tilt could be large, describing a tetrahedral frame as shown. This model could have a near zero tilt, representing a traditional linear delta. I look forward to getting advice from this community. I accomplished a similar task under a Marlin 0.something version for the parallel delta case, but never tried to get my changes into the code.

At this time, I am still working on building the 3.6-dev branch using eclipse on Linux. I am getting an odd C++ syntax error. Being unfamiliar with this code, fixing this error is not trivial for me. Should I continue to attempt this build, or should I try to work from a different branch?
3.7-dev? something released?

Delta Parts Help (2 replies)

dylar3 — Thu, 17 Apr 2025 17:29:32 -0400

Hi, I'm new to this forum, I purchased a delta 3d printer from a friend of mine for a bargain. He didn't have the time to fix it up and make it work again. Can someone please help me, on what printer is this based on? I am thinking Kossel? I went on to the internet and searched for a long time, but I didn't have any success, can someone please help me find the files for the belt tensioner as in picture one, as one of them broke.
Thanks
Dylan

How to set up BLTouch properly on custom-built Delta with Marlin 2.1.x? (1 reply)

Speedball — Fri, 07 Feb 2025 10:18:04 -0500

My delta printer is remix of this build.

I had it perfectly working with Marlin 1.1.9. Upgraded to 2.1.2.5 and encountered an issue with BLTouch: auto bed leveling fails. Hardware configuration did not change, so the problem definitely is in the firmware config.

I made a video of the process.

As seen in the video, the printer moves down, makes one probe, moves up, then moves down again, but the second probe fails (possibly because the BLTouch is too low). I have adjusted Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE, Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT (as recommended here), speeds, and researched extensively, but nothing has worked.

Octoprint log for G33 v3

Send: G33 V3
Recv: G33 Auto Calibrate
Recv: Checking... AC at radius:140.00
Recv: .Height:545.26  Ex:-4.39  Ey:-7.49  Ez:0.00  Radius:185.78
Recv: .               Tx:+0.31  Ty:+0.38  Tz:-0.70
Printer seems to support the busy protocol, will adjust timeouts and set busy interval accordingly
Recv: measured_z: 0.30
Recv: Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999

I have BLTouch v3.1. My Marlin config can be found here.

I suspect issue can be connected with enabling Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN but BLTouch not working correctly with it due to the disabled inversion of Z_MIN values.

I would be grateful for any help.

Jumbo Delta is messed up (3 replies)

RickeyH — Sun, 17 Nov 2024 09:47:52 -0500

Hi folks!
I'm Rickey Horwitz, I have spent the last few years designing and building Delta 3D printers. A few years ago, I designed a jumbo delta 3D printer with a 300mm bed and height of 400mm. I added all the bells and whistles. It was a relative success. I did have an ongoing issue with bed leveling. As such I figured it was time for me to update my marlin from 2.0.9.3 to 2.1.2.4. However, when I reconfigured my code for the latest and greatest, I ran into some intense scaling problems. I tried resizing my Delta_Radius, but this was completely stupid, because whenever I did a G33 this value would change. I finally resorted to changing the scaling of the X/Y/Z from the proverbial 100 down to 80 and now my Z height is back at 400mm up from the 320mm when I first got this code working.

Long winded, I understand. However, can someone tell me what in the hell is going on?

I have a litany of other questions to ask and would love to share my improvements including magnetic bearing retainers that keep the effector together when going warp speed.

Best regards,

Rick

Delta with more than 6 arms (3 replies)

Anon1337 — Sat, 27 Jul 2024 14:34:24 -0400

Hi,
what are the downsides (if any) to the 9 (or more) arms on a delta printer akin to what the big WASP printers use?
And this is dome to eliminate effector tilt, correct?

IGUS rod end vs IGUS ball and cup joint (11 replies)

Anon1337 — Sun, 28 Jul 2024 14:20:02 -0400

Hi,
thoughts and opinions on using the IGUS plastic rod ends vs the ball and cup joints?
The rod end is tried and tested solution but the axis it rotates on must be extremely precise in diameter and metal but you do get an angle of 35° with some clever engineering.
The ball and cup on the other hand just snaps in place and the ball stud can be had in either metal or polymer version with absolutely zero play in the join. Downside being you only get 30° at most.

Klipper KAMP not working on delta (1 reply)

Mils24 — Sat, 19 Oct 2024 07:09:31 -0400

Hello All,

I’m having trouble getting KAMP to work with my delta.

I’ve followed the instructions and got all configs in place but when I try and print I get the following error

Error evaluating 'gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'probe_count'

I think its cause a delta probe command is ‘round_probe_count’ and not ‘probe_count’ but I don’t know how to fix it as the KAMP files are ‘read only’

Any help, greatly appreciated.

FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling (10 replies)

fma — Sat, 25 Nov 2023 17:03:58 -0500

Hi!

Last year, I replaced my big home-made CoreXY 3D printer with a used FLSUN SR. This is a nice printer, but I don't like Bowden extruders¹. So, I recently replaced the SR one with an Orbiter (using the original hotend).

As I would like to print special filaments, like ABS, ABS+glass fiber/carbon, or even PC/POM, I plan to make an enclosure, and use a better extruder and hotend (I chose a Bondtech LGX Lite, and a Phaetus Rapido 2 Plus HF). Like on my CoreXY, I would like to water cool the hotend. So, I'm designing a new custom effector (which will be CNC milled, probably by PCBWAY), and I would like to have your feedback on my design:

[attachment 120631 k0004.png] [attachment 120632 k0005.png]

First, I plan to remove the Rapido heat sink, and screw the heater block directly onto the effector. The heat break pressing part will be integrated in the effector too.

Second, I plan to use Propper Printing's idea: heat pipes, but here, with a copper water block (soldered to the heat pipes). The top surface of the effector and the bottom surface of the part holding the extruder and pressing the heat pipes onto the effector will be polished, to get a good thermal contact.

I have no idea what power to dissipate in order to keep the heat break cool, and have the best thermal gradiant possible. But I think a water cooling system should be able to transfer much more heat than a air cooling system. At least, if well designed!

I first wanted to integrate the water cooling into the effector itself, but I didn't find a good way to do that (the problem is to manufacture the holes, due to the weird shape of the effector).

Any advice welcome!

Thanks,

PS: I'm not sure I will keep the original cooling fans, but rather use a berd-air pump, like I did on my CoreXY.

¹ I already did some tests in the past and found that Bowden extruders modify the structure of the plastic, leading to much more brittle parts. I think this is because of the pressure of the extruder gears on the filament, followed by a long time to rest before beeing melted... I would love to have the exact explanation.

XY movement issue (5 replies)

alzyrian — Thu, 02 Nov 2023 18:40:50 -0400

Hello,

what i am seeing is related to the x,y directions on the print bed and best described as: print a square, when the print head travels in one direction, it goes twice as fast as the other direction.

the faster direction is when travel is from -x to +x and +x to -x. example, travel from x10, y-10 to x-10, y-10. is twice as fast as from x10, y-10 to x10, y10
.
what this is causing is on a test square, two opposite sides are smooth, two opposite sides have holes or thin spots because of the fast movement.

marlin 2.1.2, no issues with the z axis movement, here are all the settings related to this in my firmware.

#define XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION 200
#define XYZ_MICROSTEPS 16
#define XYZ_BELT_PITCH 2
#define XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH 20
#define DEFAULT_XYZ_STEPS_PER_UNIT ((XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION) * (XYZ_MICROSTEPS) / double(XYZ_BELT_PITCH) / double(XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH))
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 80, 137.38 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 2500, 2500, 2500, 300 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 1000,1000,4,750 }

delta radius and diag rod length have both been measured.

i am not sure what to check or modify to try and adjust the speed of movement in the x direction on the print bed.

Clevis joints (4 replies)

Anon1337 — Tue, 31 Oct 2023 14:03:39 -0400

Hi,
anyone knows about/uses clevis joints on their deltas? Weiss uses them on some delta robots. And so do some of the Chinese delta pick and place robot manufacturers. Cost of a custom solution aside what's the downside of these?

Linear rails preload for delta ? (2 replies)

Wylley — Wed, 28 Aug 2024 14:45:05 -0400

I'm looking to get some linear rails for a delta but I've read some conflicting things about the preload they should have.
I mostly some saying it should have a light preload for precision but others say that it should have no preload for smooth movement on a belt. If someone could clear this up for me it would be much appreciated.

connecting (with cura?) to acustom Delta printer via USB (2 replies)

spikey1973 — Sat, 29 Apr 2023 05:55:52 -0400

Hello to all,

I am rebuilding my old Geeetech G2s pro delta printer.

Basically I have build an outer frame around the original to increase stability and changed everything else besides the stepper motors.
As mainboard i use a MKS robin nano v3.1 with for now marlin 2.0.9.2 running on it. (thanks to great help of Dust)

Now i am stuck going to the next part, calibrations

At first I tried to move the hotends around using the marlin LGVL_ui. "tool / move / z- (10mm).
If I do so the steppers do move it down.. but very twitchy and loud (using tmc 2226 with stealth chop active) but there is movement is observed.
After a few seconds after the first filling that first assignment (very very far from smooth)

It gives the error..: driver error, printer halted, please reset and then it turns off (probably because i have MKS PWC installed).
Additionally I should also say that I am not using the standard ball bearing lineair bearings but those plastic once (NOT for aliexpress),
to decrease overall load on the stepper motors.

so after that, I thought it would be a better option to stopplaying and connect to the board via cura.
But, since my printer isn't in the cura list. I had to choose custom FFFF, but this seems to be a cartesian style printer and mine is a delta and no clear options to change that. (only square and oval print beds)
So I was wondering where to go from there.
Should I kind create a .json style setup for my printer? or are there other better ways?

Additionally, I don't know exactly what stepper motors the original g2s pro uses.
Today I recieved a msg from Geeetech though saying:

we do not have specifications: only know the model is like 42SHD0034-20B

So now I am also wondering.. since I changed my setup from 12v to 24v
with 220v for the bed heater. I set my Vref (tmc 2226) to 850mV as they should be 1.5A capable steppers.
Does the 24V on the system have any influence on the stepper motors? should I upgrade these?

the TMC2226 have a Voltage Range 4.75... 29V DC, so 24V is oke.
the board is also 12v and 24V capable.
I set the board as 24V in marlin.

Kind greats

Matthieu

Delta calibration point triggering (way) before reaching the bed (2 replies)

sircastor — Thu, 16 Feb 2023 21:04:43 -0500

I've been trying to recalibrate my printer recently as it acted up the last few times I printed with it - the very last time it didn't even lay plastic on the bed.

My printer is a self-built Kossel Mini Delta. I'm driving it with a Duet2Wifi, and for a Z Probe I'm using the nozzle with a PrecisionPiezo Orion.

I've followed the calibration procedure here (https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Tuning/Delta_calibration) including setting trigger height corrections. Most of the points that my head probes work just fine, but one of them (nearest the Z tower) reliably triggers long before it reaches the bed - almost immediately. At the moment I'm starting my probing quite high up, but I don't think that would have any effect on it. It feels to me like it ought to be a mechanical issue - like some sort of strain that only occurs close to the Z Tower cause for rigidity or vibration or something - but I really don't have a sense of why this would happen. Has anyone seen something like this before or have any ideas on how I could try to address it?

thanks

Kossel Delta XY problem (1 reply)

dzikos — Sat, 21 Jan 2023 12:24:17 -0500

Hello everybody,
I had strange problem with my Kossel printer. This machine was build few years ago. Standard configuration with RAMPS, Arduino and Marlin firmware. That time everything works, without any problems.
I used it for few months and after that, lew it to this day (because, unfortunately no time).
So, to the point. I downloaded and configured new version of Marlin firmware configured mostly everything and printer start working. Mostly everything work but there is problem with movement with XY axis. With Z axis ther isn't any problem. When want to move Z axis 10 mm it's more or less 10 mm. But on X and Y axis, 10mm it's 35mm.
My printable radius it's 100mm, I want to move X axis to 30mm, but nozzle completely leave printing area. It's not 30mm but 105mm.
Do you have any idea, where is the problem.
In the link bellow you can find Configuration.h file
https://pastebin.com/Pk1xv81j

Kossel, Z-Height if Calibration Cube is way too small (1 reply)

stang6t8coupe — Wed, 11 Jan 2023 13:14:40 -0500

Hi,

Got my Problems with Delta Radius sorted out, Auto Calibrate is working now.

I printed the 20mm Calibration Cube. X and Y was at 20.05mm, but Z is at 16.5mm. How could that be possible? I thought rod length scales all the axis uniformly.

Thank you,
Adrian

New delta build mesures (1 reply)

masterviana — Sun, 15 Dec 2024 15:18:26 -0500

I'm planning to build a new delta printer using some of spares parts that got from previous builts. The plan is using 6 nema 17 on bottom and top, controlling each axis using indepent drive on klipper. I will go rigid on the frame using something very similar to this [www.thingiverse.com].

I've 260mm diameter bed. I've some doubts calculation the right length of horizontal extrusion and rods. I would like to get the bed resting on horizontal extrusions. I try to use that calculator [danalspub.com] is great to get some visual understanding of the build. But i was hoping they would give me the right measurements based on my print area. Is there any tool or formula to give the mesure of extrusion and arms based on my print area? I know for linear rails the rule is less 100mm of the vertical extrusion. I really want the less footprint possible.

Printer after Board swap printing scewed/not square (3 replies)

Xadro — Fri, 14 Oct 2022 07:59:14 -0400

Hi,
ive been working on a SKR1.3 conversion on my Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini delta for a long while now. I've struggled for months now on getting it to print straight,as you can see in the attachments, i can not seem to find the cause, i redid the firmware twenty times, ive run endless G33 Autocalibrations and had it apart a few times again. I can not diagnose the issue at all. I replaced the original endstops with new ones on printed mounts, i level using a foil switch on the nozzle, "Lerdge probe".

The first layer goes done fine most of the time but the scew always comes after the first few layers, even very small parts in the middle of the bed show that.

My G33 output:Calibration OK rolling back.
.Height:112.90 Ex:-0.65 Ey:-1.90 Ez:0.00 Radius:62.44
. Tx:-0.47 Ty:+0.07 Tz:+0.40

I measured the towers with a square to the table and they all are straight.

I run the latest marlin 2.1.1 with these configs:[attachment 119800 Configuration_adv.h][attachment 119799 Configuration.h]

I do hope someone on here has more ideas than me :D

Hello, what is the main board of my kossel mini? (no replies)

zp3d — Thu, 18 Aug 2022 17:19:03 -0400

Hello, what is the main board of my kossel mini? Does anybody know? I am looking for firmware or name of the board for configuring Marlin by myself.

Auto Calibration probing failed - Delta Flsun Kossel (2 replies)

riggah — Mon, 01 Aug 2022 23:12:06 -0400

Hey guys!
I recently got an FLSun kossel delta.
It was a bit neglected, so I lube it down as well as upgraded to Marlin 2.1. I never dealt with Deltas before, only i3 and CoreXYs so I am still learning.
Please assist me.

I am trying auto calibration. It probes, however at some point it doesn't want to continue further. It stops to do it itself but if I hit the probe it registers and continues.

The board is: MKS gen L 1.0 with a4988x5

Video Link

The Marlin config is the default Delta FLSun Kossel template in Marlins config templates.
I will paste them here as well:

Default Configs (link)

TL: DR
The printer halts and never succeeds to calibrate by using the probe.
What am I missing..?

Delta firmware on Creality V 4.2.7 (2 replies)

FromFrance — Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:31:55 -0400

Hi,

I have a dead 2040 WASP and a LOT of creality 4.2.7 boards.

Is it possible to put a Delta firmware on that board ?

I found some topics about delta firmware but most of them are older than 4 years old, a lot of changes since.

Converting to 24V (3 replies)

Chaparro1973 — Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:30:10 -0400

Hi
I have a home made printer with this equipment

Board - BTT GTR v1 with M5 extender

4 - 42BYGW804 motors on Z Axis
2 - 42BYGW804 motors on y Axis
1 - 42BYGW804 motors on x Axis
1 - Pancake on extruder

All drivers are TMC2208

Extruder heater conected to board
Bed heater is 220V, conect to board via solid state relay

50A 12 Power supply

Recently i tryed to upgrade it to 24V, by simply changing the power suply (24V, 25A), fans and extruder heater.
But the printer started to show erratic movements, Y axis stops erraticly, 1 axis stoped working on the M5 extender, motors pausing during travel, etc.
So I changed back to 12V, and it runs fine.

Have i missed any steps on my convertion, or is it just not possible to make the conversion?

Flashing new board (5 replies)

3Dweb — Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:57:41 -0500

I recently brought out my (Folgertech) Kossel Delta printer (from 2018) and fired her up and she worked just fine.. Now I want to up grade from the arduino 2560 R3 + ramps 1.4 to a 32 bit board, but I'm having issues with what board to update to and how to flash the firmware. The SKR mini E3 v3.0 appears to be the board I would like to use...Is this a good choice.. The bigger issue for me is the firmware.. I remember that rod length needs to entered into the equation.. I'm kind of at a loss. I have tried to find more info but not really successful.. A friend suggested that I try this site. Anyone out there that point me in the right direction. The printer volume is 200x200x200

Tank you in advance
3Dweb

Improved Anycubic Delta Part Cooling (1 reply)

rq3 — Thu, 17 Feb 2022 16:12:26 -0500

At least on my Predator, the factory part cooling blowers are 24 volt, 0.2 amp Boosfan JD4010M, and they truly suck. They barely move air.

I replaced them with Delta BFB0412HHA-A units, wired in series to just one FAN0 connector. These are 12 volt, 0.08 amp units, and are physically a drop in replacement. I use two in series electrically so that each drops 12 volts, and the pair can run off of the same 24 volt FAN0 connector with the same PWM.

Although it is not considered "best practice" to wire BLDC motors in series, these are locked rotor protected, so that unless one blower fails shorted phase to phase (very unlikely), their low current draw and high impedance will prevent catastrophic results.

Why do this? The original units would barely start at 75% PWM, and barely move air at 100%. The new units actually start moving at about 5%, run smoothly and reliably at 10%, and will lift the printer off the bench at 100%. Just kidding, but the airflow is astounding, and actually having real air speed control over a large range is a huge benefit. And no monkeying with PWM settings in Marlin, either.

Plus, the new Delta blowers have dual ball bearings, so they should last for years. I don't know what the old blowers had for bearings, nor do I care, since they barely worked anyway. I may dissect one to find out.

The Delta blowers are commonly available from many sources, starting at about $7 each. I got mine in 2 days from Mouser for $14 each.

I use the Bakak duct from Thingiverse, and highly recommend it. The factory original duct basically just blew on the nozzle with the anemic air flow from the factory blowers, and I got rid of it long ago.

EDIT: I opened one of the old Boosfan JD4010M. It doesn't really have ANY bearings, per se. Just a plastic shaft rotating directly in a hole in the plastic housing. It's a miracle that these things spin at all.

geeetech G2, G2s pro or 301 spool holder dimensions (3 replies)

Dust — Sat, 29 Apr 2023 05:49:39 -0400

I'm trying to rebuild an old geeetech delta G2s pro

Sadly the spool mount plastics are long gone.

Any chance someone has one of these and could take a few pictures and measurements? in particular from top of printer to the metal spool holding bar. A guess would be around 25cm.

Thanks

Anycubic delta bed mesh problem (9 replies)

Pippy — Sun, 13 Feb 2022 03:30:34 -0500

Hi

I'm trying to diagnose what part of my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus might be the most likely cause of bed mesh problem. I've done the delta calibration a fair times now followed by bed levelling but too no avail. I've placed a small piece of Kapton tape in the centre which clearly shows up in the mesh data.

Here's the mesh data from two consecutive bed levelling sessions, the 2nd one is after rotating the bed by 90 degrees (the tape bump shows this rotation quite well), yet the dominant wave is unchanged, which means it's not the bed plate itself (that appears to be nice and level). The wave is about 0.3mm peak to peak, centered above and below zero.

Firmware is Marlin 1.1.19

The mesh data is the same whether the bed is cold (ambient 18C) or hot (60C), it doesn't change.

Any ideas what might be the most likely cause of the static wave (remains static no matter how much I rotate the bed plate) ?

[attachment 118965 Image3.jpg]
[attachment 118966 Image1.jpg]
[attachment 118967 Image2.jpg]

Upsizing Kossel 2020 - 1200mm extrusions? (7 replies)

eduncan911 — Tue, 09 Nov 2021 14:53:28 -0500

Hello everyone! First time poster, (very very very) long time lurker!

I got a partially built (incorrectly) FolgerTech Kossel 2020 that I picked up dirt cheap. I want to upsize it significantly while I am rebuilding it.

What I am concerned about is stability of a height of 1200mm extrusions. Note that I will be using linear rails attached to the 2020 extrusions.

I've calculated two variants with parts I have on hand already:

250r x ~300h w/500mm linear rails
[danalspub.com]

400r x ~615h w/1000mm linear rails
[danalspub.com]

The 250r has the best angle of the 288mm on-center rods I have for high speed edges (30°). The only issue with 250r is I have a cosplay helmet I'd like to print, and it needs 270mm to clear.

I also have a set of 1000mm linear rails that I'd like to put to use - without building a second Delta printer. But obviously something that large with 2020 extrusions may need a level of bracing I am not comfortable with.

And no, I can't attach it to a wall for where it will be sitting. :(

Thanks!

Looking for some guidance on heated beds (5 replies)

sircastor — Thu, 09 Dec 2021 14:44:17 -0500

Hello All,

I have owned a scaled up self-built kossel mini for a very long time (700mm tall, 360mm extrusions), and I've been slowly upgrading various features on it. I've had a 310mm round Borosilicate glass bed to print on, supported by FSRs. This has worked fine for me as I've printed exclusively PLA, but I'm ready to try some other materials and have been interested in printing some ABS again (My first printer was a Makerbot Cupcake, which printed all the parts for this machine)

I'm a bit overwhelmed by the options available for replacing the bed. There are kapton heaters, silicone heaters, and PCB heaters. Glass beds, Steel beds, and special surfaces to help stick, Some have magnets, some don't. If I use a PCB, I need a heat spreader. If I use FSRs, I have to protect them from heat. If I switch to inductive sensors I have to use a non-glass bed. The list of course, goes on and on.

Because of the size of my printer (which seemed like a great idea at the time) my surface needs to be about 280mm diameter (my current plate is oversized). I've thought about just using a square bed, but I have plans to try and enclose everything eventually.

Does anyone have a delta heated build plate they love? Or just recommendations?

Metal ball joints source? (2 replies)

Nxt-1 — Tue, 10 Aug 2021 16:34:58 -0400

I have been using plastic MP Jet ball joints on my large delta for a while now. I want to rebuild and replace the arms and am looking for larger diameter CF tubes (got those already) and metal instead of plastic joints. Or at the very least stiffer alternatives.

Since the current V1 types I used seem high quality and have served me will I looked into the V3 types from MP Jet. I orderd a full set of these without thinking it fully through and they are absolutelty tiny. While the size would probably be fine in terms of stiffness, they seem quite impossible to mount and get a decend range of motion out of them (I need about 20° from centerline in either direction). The rotating ball itself is shaped in such a way that you'd need custom made fasters to get some range and it's furter complicated by the hole only being 2mm diameter and thus all faster features being absolutely tiny.

So the TL;DR becomes: I am looking for metal ball joints with 20° range of motion either side.

My Parts Bin Delta (2 replies)

lohiaprateek — Sat, 31 Jul 2021 04:34:36 -0400

Due to the multiple covid lockdowns here in India, and the free time I had. I started to build a new "parts bin" delta printer. I've been printing since 2012 when I bought the Ultimaker Original and later designed and built a small delta which is my work horse. I had collected a lot of parts over the years and decided to build another slightly larger delta printer. Barring the Extrusions, the belts and a new printed effector, all the parts came out from the parts bin I had lying around. While the corners were printed on my work horse.

Its by no means a perfect printer. I'm still trying to smooth vibrations during quick infill moves, but if the external surfaces are printed with a 60mm speed there is little to no affect on the quality of the prints.

I'm using custom designed carriage, laser cut with a 5mm carbon steel sheet and uses the mini-v wheel. This was originally for my other printer, but I've migrated to rails on that one and I had these lying around. The effector has been printed on a HP MJF so as to maintain consistency on the distance between the carbon fiber rods. The vertical towers are 700mm v-slots. Rod ends are from the openscad files by Haydn Huntley and printed in ABS and smooth to a shine using a 10mm ball nose bit and some ptfe grease added for extra smooth movements. The hotend is an all metal one which is screw mounted, this was from before e3d started selling these, infact this was bought even before the v6 hotend was launched. This hotend came with a v5 titanium heatbreak and a solid copper block. Though I'm using an original e3d .4 mm brass nozzle. The extruder is a e3d titan knockoff. The bed is square bed which was bought for the old ultimaker that is lying defunct now. Due to lockdowns I was unable to buy locally or import a round bed, but the square one with plain float glass top works perfectly for the time being. And a bltouch for Auto leveling / delta calibrations. Also using the 8 diode TL-smoothers, no reason apart from the fact that I had them lying around

The brain is a pi3 a+ and a skr 1.1 running Klipper firmware with SD6128 stepper drivers at 1/64 so super silent. I even have the anti vibration connectors for the motors.

I'm hoping the print the corners from pet-g or something stiffer, this non brand PLA which I used to print the corners and other parts are not the best. I'm also planning to upgrade to a direct drive e3d Titan aero or a e3d Hemera in the near future. Running klippers pressure advance does help a lot, but I'd like to test a direct drive.

Delta home issue (27 replies)

MikeCL — Sat, 07 Aug 2021 20:52:24 -0400

I have a he3d k280 so first things first the little sensor probe does not work for auto level but it shows as triggered with the M119 command when I trigger it with my finger but when auto home it has no function.

Also I think my Z is backwards… -Z raises it up to the end stops but the end stops when trigged if you try to go up more you just hear the motor causing the belts to shake.

+Z as you know it causes it to end up crashing in the bed..I did the whole invert Z axis in the repetier app but it has no effect