Reprap Forum - Huxley

Bowden Tube for Huxley length recommendations (no replies)

pcmad — Sat, 02 Apr 2022 10:33:51 -0400

Bowden Tube for Huxley length recommendations

i thinking around 40cm that would allow me to cut the ends when needed

what size would you recommend

Huxley Duet - Latest Firmware (1 reply)

jmknox — Tue, 29 Dec 2020 15:52:55 -0500

Hi All,

I have been away from 3d printing for a couple of years and need to re-commision my huxley duo.

Controler board is is a Duet V0.6.

What is the latest version of the firmware that will work with this printer and where can I download it?

I would prefer the DC42 firmware as that is what I last used, and have cloned the relevant github repositorys as per the instructions to do so, but cannot see how to define which version to configure or even which version is required.

Any advise would be greatfully received.

JMKnox

Huxley endstop (4 replies)

cmora111 — Wed, 26 Aug 2020 19:47:11 -0400

Hi I have a reprap huxley that was bought around 2004, It was never put together. I am in the process of putting it together and have come to a point where I am installing the endstops. The Y endstop does not appear to have any part of the bed hit it to trigger it to stop. Could someone post a picture of their Huxley with the bed hitting the endstop so I can see where I went wrong. There are just no pictures out there.

Thanks,
Carlos

Hot end cable needs to be shielded? (2 replies)

bob.lokerse — Sat, 23 Sep 2017 05:16:25 -0400

I am extending my Huxley with a dual extruder kit.
At the time there was no cable available for the hot end/ resistor to the electronics board.

I see some cables online, but I am wondering if it needs to be shielded (like the original is)?

Huxley due all 8mm rod request (no replies)

Yoko — Thu, 09 Mar 2017 11:49:40 -0500

Hi all,
I have just got a friends printer to renovate it (completely destroyed) which is huxley with all rods are 8mm but i can't find any stl for it
Can any body help me to find it's stl files

Techzone Huxley Rebuild Help (1 reply)

ajsmcs — Fri, 10 Feb 2017 12:26:34 -0500

Good morning!

I own a Techzone Huxley that I bought way back in ~2010, back when the only options for complete 3D printer kits were it or the original wood-framed Makerbot.

I realized pretty quickly that its a complete piece of crap. As soon as I would accomplish one thing, another thing would break, and Techzone had some of the worst customer service I'd ever seen. After a few months of this, the board stopped working, I got burnt out, and set it aside.

Fast forward a few years, and I bought a RAMBo board to replace the original. But around that time I got swamped at work, and didn't have time to mess with it.

Fast forward to now, and I've committed myself to making this POS work.

1) My first issue is the Z-axis 360 end.

In the following picture, I've marked two points - width A, and width B.
[attachment 90191 800px-HuxleyZ360Alignment.jpg]
Width A is the distance between the threaded rod and the roller bearing track.

Width B is the distance between the threaded rod and the smooth rod at the base of the frame.

These distances should be equal.

Here's the problem: those distances are not equal - A is shorter than B - and there is no legitimate way of adjusting them.

The original instructions suggested adjusting the number of spacer washers between the bearings marked by the arrow and the plastic frame. But that makes the smooth rod track way too wide and allows a fair amount of both x and y-axis play, which would certainly reduce print quality.

Was there ever an improvement to this design to allow for better adjustability?

Huxley CoreXZ (no replies)

diggory_venn — Thu, 01 Dec 2016 12:24:46 -0500

Hello Folks, first post.

My Aug 2013 RRP (melzi) Huxley needs some long service maintenance, so I decided to build another Huxley as I did not want to be without a working printer. But then..... I decided to try a CoreXZ arrangement. The idea has been to make it easy to re-build into a double NEMA14/M5 Z axis Huxley, if the experiment proved to be a bad idea. Running Marlin RC7 with mods, it has done its first print today. I have had a bit of a time working out heat settings and feedrates with Marlin, but others on the forum have shared information that has either answered my questions or triggered some thoughts in a new direction.

Broke the blades on the hot end fan (3 replies)

jmknox — Sat, 26 Nov 2016 14:56:23 -0500

Hi All,

Can anyone let me know what the hotend fan is, I know it is 40mm square, what is the voltage, 5v, 12v?

I managed to shatter 1/3 of the blades on the fan (don't ask how) and need to replace it. :X

Also a source in the UK if it is not available from somewhere like maplins would also be appreciated

Any Help please

James

Huxley on Facebook (no replies)

herisuprapto — Tue, 22 Nov 2016 09:37:12 -0500

I know this question is very late, there is someone who has created a group for Huxley on Facebook?

Leveling Y-bed plane (no replies)

Kaho_tam — Sun, 13 Nov 2016 12:42:10 -0500

Does anyone have a good method of leveling just the Y bed plane of the Huxley Duo?

Instructions for an old Huxley (5 replies)

SDuck — Fri, 26 Aug 2016 14:42:17 -0400

I work at a museum, and an old employee purchased a Huxley #240 in 2011, but never assembled it or even opened the box.

I've found instructions on assembly, (https://reprappro.com/documentation/huxley/) but nothing that matches the parts that I have here. There are a number of parts in the kit that aren't mentioned in these instructions as well as several called for in the instructions that didn't come with the kit. Are there older instructions somewhere that I could use to put this together? I've looked, but haven't been able to find anything useful.

Thank you for your help.

Original Huxley build questions (5 replies)

Dam — Wed, 17 Aug 2016 07:18:54 -0400

Hi all,

New to this forum and to 3D printing.. Really looking forward to getting started. Apologies for the noob question. (and probably more questions that will follow)

Yesterday I received a Huxley printer, the one from the Kickstarter that ran in I think 2011. A friend quite amazingly sent it to me as I really want to get into 3D printing. From what I understand, the kit wasn't ever really used.

I only have access to the instructions that are on the reprap wiki. They seem to be for a newer version of the huxley so I am quite stuck. The wiki says the heat bed thermos must be connected to the Sanguinolu so the live is on the correct pin. It says that the live wire is the striped wire. Problem is the wires on the one that I have are red. I took it to an electronic shop and they didn't recognize it as a thermos at all. I only assume it is, as it's the second set of wires coming from the heat bed and the first set is obviously the heating wire. (no idea what it's called)

Here is a picture of item in question - [www.dropbox.com]

If that is indeed the thermos does anyone know if the order in which is connected matters or not?

Much thanks :)

Damian

Broken Bed- Where to get replacement? (3 replies)

eggbowl — Mon, 11 Apr 2016 01:47:25 -0400

I posted about my Huxley bed not heating properly. I've figured out that it's broken (reading 6 M ohms across--way too much.) I'd like to get a replacement bed, but searching for another 140x140 mm bed hasn't yielded any good results (all out of stock or unreliable vendor) Does anyone know where I can get a 140x140 mm bed? Or if that's not possible, a different size bed that has the same mounting holes as the reprap huxley v0.1?

Proximity sensor problems (1 reply)

Andreas15 — Fri, 04 Mar 2016 05:08:34 -0500

Hi,

I'm fixing a Huxley at school that was badly build and just stood there. I came a long way already, but where I have to test the proximity sensor in the manual, I'm stuck. The proximity sensor constantly gives a value of around 917, no matter if I move a paper close to it or not, it's always around the same value when I send G31.

I tried some stuff already, but I really can't find what it could be. What would this mean, is it a fault on the Duet maybe?

Thanks,
Andreas

Pronterface bed target temp spike (1 reply)

eggbowl — Wed, 09 Mar 2016 21:41:35 -0500

I have a v0.1 reprap pcb heat bed, and melzi 2.0 electronics. I've unplugged everything except for the bed for testing (everything else works.) Temperature is being properly detected, but when I use pronterface to send a command to heat the bed, the target temp will go up to wherever it's supposed to be, stay there at most a few seconds, and then drop right back down to 0. I have two ideas, one that my ground connection is bad in which case i'd have to solder it because my crimp housing broke (i'm hoping it's this.) And my other idea is that there's some firmware problem in which case I know very little about firmware. Is it possible that a bad ground could lead to a spike in the target temp? (sorry this post doesn't have any pictures and has little detail, I'm posting this at 2 am.)

RepRapPro Huxley Duo Z Homing doesn't work (6 replies)

archieroques — Sun, 28 Feb 2016 10:06:16 -0500

I got a RepRapPro Huxley Duo kit last year, and built it then successfully and did a couple of prints, but haven't used it since because of other reasons.

The printer always had a problem where the IR sensor for measuring the Z axis height doesn't do so, instead continuing to lower the axis when homing, to the point of snapping one of the parts. The sensor works absolutely fine for doing the X axis bit, so I don't see why it should be any different. There's something in the instructions about putting paper under the kapton tape to help the sensor reflect, but apparrently (see this post here), it's not needed for the Huxley due to the fact that it's got an aluminium heat bed. I haven't even got to the point of applying kapton tape yet, so I really can't see how it is reflecting off anything. RepRapPro has now gone out of business, so this is my only option for support! Their instructions seem to be just copied and pasted from the Ormerod 2 ones anyways.

Why is this going wrong, and how can I fix it? I don't want to buy any more parts if I can avoid it. Thanks!

Converting melzi to duet (1 reply)

ebola0 — Tue, 16 Feb 2016 13:54:47 -0500

I've come into possession of my brother's 3d printer, a huxley with a melzi controller. I just bought a duet (the .6 version from longcat labs. I'm confused about how to convert the wiring over. The end stop connections on the melzi board have two wires (I'm assuming pwr/gnd). On the duet theres three pins, labelled STP, 3.3, and gnd. What's the stp pin for? It doesn't really make sense that it'd be a blank connection

Also, the motor plugs on the melzi are color coded red, blue, green black (in that order, left to right on the x and y plugs and then flipped black, green, blue, black for the z and e sets. On the duet it has the motor connections labelled as 2b, 2a, 1a, 1b. Which goes where?

Which to replace Melzi mainboard with, the Duet or the Smoothieboard? (3 replies)

ebola0 — Fri, 15 Jan 2016 13:27:24 -0500

My younger brother built a Huxley a few years ago but is too busy with the Navy now and gave his Huxley to me. It has a Melzi mainboard on it which doesn't work at the moment, something happened with the Usb<->Serial communications and the printer won't show up on the computer anymore. I'm not that interested in trouble shooting the Melzi as it seems simplest to upgrade it to a new mainboard. I'm stuck between the Duet and the Smoothieboard. I like the web interface and both seem like good replacements. What are your guys thoughts on what main board to go with?

Also, is there a tutorial somewhere on how to convert wire leads into connectors that'll attach easier?

There's the .6 version of the Duet for 50 bucks on repraplikeo
[www.replikeo.com]

here's the 4x version of the smoothieboard which is near 3x the price at 135
[shop.uberclock.com]

The features seem pretty similar but I'm pretty new to this. I like that the duet has the expansion boards to upgrade to further capabilities and am leaning towards the duet but it seems like I'm missing something with the price difference?

Thermistor (1 reply)

Kaho_tam — Sat, 12 Dec 2015 02:40:18 -0500

Just wondering what's the exact model of the thermistor for huxley duo?

It seems to be permanently out of stock on the official site:

[reprappro.com]

Just want to make sure i get the part number exactly right.

Both motors on the z axis rotates sometimes only one (4 replies)

herisuprapto — Tue, 12 Jan 2016 09:34:46 -0500

Hi,

I need your help. At first I replace the bushing IGUs that has been damaged and cause one axis in the z axis only moves one of the right side only, or switch to the left, apparently after replacing the result is still the same.

I decided to take off the motor on the z axis of the rails of the x-axis and 2 smooth rod. Then I use this G1 Z50 F2000 and homing, it turns out the two motors on the z axis rotates either the right or left, the part that stops just vibrate and make a sound, and sometimes the two motors that spin as usual, I tried to give the lubricant and the result was still the same ,

How do I fix it? I need your help.

Paper under Kapton tape for bed levelling on Huxley Duo (4 replies)

archieroques — Sat, 17 Oct 2015 06:44:41 -0400

I have assembled my RepRapPro Huxley Duo kit, and am at the 'bed leveling' stage. It seems that the instructions for any machine with Duet electronics are now all in one place - this would be great, except they appear to just be the Ormerod instructions, and so all data is for the Ormerod, and the machine is always referred to as an Ormerod. This has resulted in me not realising that trying to send my Huxley Duo to X/Y200 will result in crashes, and having crashed my machine multiple times.

The biggest issue however, is the bed levelling. The page frequently mentions some kind of paper under the kapton tape in the corners for the IR sensor, but I can't find anything about paper in the Huxley Duo instructions (which is where the instructions about kapton-taping the bed are). I've been using a slip of paper and putting it roughly on the bed under the sensor, but this is obviously not very accurate. I then tried putting paper under the kapton tape, but it sometimes didn't register, resulting in the hot end crashing into the bed, and often pushing the two Z motors out of alignment.

What's the deal with the paper? What should I use, and where?

Thanks,
Archie

Huxley duo heat bed (2 replies)

Kaho_tam — Mon, 05 Oct 2015 14:35:03 -0400

Dear Sir/Madam,

I've recently ordered the Huxley Duo Kit on 27th Sep from the official website. I'm now following the online instructions to install the heatbed.

However, I can't find any long hex nuts for fitting the three 8mm screws (as in [reprappro.com])

Neither were the "3xsprings+3x30mm" components available (as in the Huxley: [reprap.org])

The heatbed bag only contains three boards. I've searched my box very thoroughly many times. I wonder how is the heatbed meant to fit onto the machine?

Huxley Duo X-carriage crashes into Z-axis when homing (4 replies)

EJC91 — Tue, 15 Sep 2015 06:25:26 -0400

Hi All,

When trying to home the X-axis on a Huxley duo it doesn't stop when the IR sensor is over the white tab, it keeps going and crashes into the z-axis. I've checked the readings from the sensor using G31 at close proximity and far away using a piece of paper and they are as you would expect (over 900 for close proximity and below 50 for far away). I've updated the firmware to the most recent and checked that the SD card is being read upon starting up the printer (I believe this is required in order to turn on the sensor). The readings I get when the IR probe is over the tab are 300 if I use a white piece of paper on the tab and around 400 if I use foil as someone in an ormerod discussion suggested.

Any ideas?

Cheers,

Ed

Proximity sensor not providing anticipated output (2 replies)

mattie — Tue, 28 Jul 2015 03:57:15 -0400

This is my first post - and my first attempt to build a RepRap - so a warm hello to all.

I've got to the point where I have made a few test prints, these have not stuck correctly to the bed so was playing around with temperatures to try to improve things.

Sadly the proximity sensor - the IR versions provided as part of the standard Huxley Duo - has stopped responding as intended. I managed to zero in all 3 planes, but any attempts to zero in x (or, somewhat catastrophically, Z) result in the printer jamming into end of travel.

When commissioning, the proximity sensor returned the anticipated value of 950ish in pronterface when a piece of paper was placed in front of the sensor, but this has apparently dropped to 250. The voltages for the sensor connections (taken from the proximity sensor board itself) are quite a bit away from the desired - I get around 0.6V instead of the anticipated 1.53V when a piece of paper is in front. The Yellow voltage is also a bit out, but the blue and green are OK suggesting the sensor is correctly powered. The duet itself appears OK from the tests I've run.

Have I somehow broken the proximity sensor? I've had a few nozzle blockages which have required taking the hot end apart, so I worry I've banged it in the process - the sensor was OK for quite a few aborted test prints.

Advice on what to try would be much appreciated. I've contacted support, but perhaps best to wean myself off their assistance!

Cheers,

Matt

Questions Concerning Huxley Extruder Drive (no replies)

TSchmidt — Sat, 06 Jun 2015 02:16:21 -0400

Hello friends,

Just got my Huxley Duo yesterday, and everything seems to be coming along nicely. However, I do have a few questions concerning the Extruder Drive:

#1 - Should there be this large of a gap when mounting the extruder block on the NEMA 17 motor with the M3X20mm (#241) cap head screws as the directions suggest? [They are snug]

Photo: [drive.google.com]

After thinking about this, I switched out the M3X20mm (#241) screws for M3X16mm (#242) screws. This seems to be a better fit, with no play between the extruder block and motor. Hope that help someone else out if they are following the directions to a "T".

#2 - So I pushed the Large Extruder Gear and hobbed insert assembly into its position, and it functions quite nicely, however the bearing is so firmly lodged into the extruder block, that I'm certain I will break the large gear trying to pull it up and off if I ever need to clean/reattach the hobbed insert. Going at it from below and pushing up on the M3X20mm Hex head is the only other option I can think of, but there's not much material to get a firm grip on the block. Is there any nifty tricks to getting this assembly out that I'm not seeing as of now?

Thanks!

[solved] Filament boils, temp never shows above 180 (no replies)

mikerr — Sun, 17 May 2015 19:18:05 -0400

Today halfway through printing my reprap suddenly overheated (I smelled burning PLA)
and the pla is bubbling/boiling off the hotend.

So I stop/turn off the printer, clean the hotend, and turn it back on.

Now pronterface reports the temperature won't go above 175 degrees,
but the hotend is clearly hotter than the sun as the filament just boils and burns (300 ?)

Is this just the thermistor ? I understood that would show -273 or something if it failed...

[edit] OK I'm an idiot, the thermistor had moved slightly outside the hotend,
but I couldn't easily see that because of the heatshrink tubing...

Hot end shuts off when reaching target (3 replies)

jeffthompson — Thu, 07 May 2015 15:25:24 -0400

I'm wrapping up a Huxley Duo build and I'm running into trouble with the hot end. I can get it to heat up to a target temp of 185, but when it reaches that very close to that temperature it drops back down to room temp.

As I understand it, H1 is the hot end, the first # is the actual temp, and the 2nd is the target temp?

When I start up the hot end, the target is listed as 185, but when it shuts off it reads -273. I've checked the wiring of the thermistor and the voltages it sends, which all seem to check out. If I try to set a new target temp, the 2nd number stays at -273 and it won't heat up without a restart.

Heating up:

H1: 114.4/185.0

Crashing:

H1: 124.4/-273

Huxley duo with 1.04 firmware: slow movements in print & calibration (1 reply)

hieronymousch — Tue, 09 Jun 2015 04:55:28 -0400

Hi,

I'm encountering a strange problem that I never had with my ormerod. When calibrating the printer, all axis move at normal speeds but the X-axis returns really slow to the 0 position on the end of the calibration.
I'm having the same problem with the Y axis during a print with several parts at once... it takes ages to move the bed to the new part and then he resumes at normal speed.

What am I missing here? Why is this happening? My config file uses the default settings.

Thanks

Temperature for Bed and Extruder way too low (6 replies)

KennethY89 — Sun, 17 May 2015 21:51:03 -0400

Hi guys,

I've finally managed to reach the stage where I can turn on my little Huxley, but I'm getting very strange temperature readings for my bed and extruder temperatures, as you can see in the attached screenshot.

I get the below after pressing "Check temp" when I connect to the printer via Pronterface (Screenshot in file Temperror.png)

T: -273.1/ -273.1 B:-14.3/-273.1@:0

And this is the reading I get when I unscrew the wires for btemp and etemp from my Melzi V2.0 board. (Screenshot in file Temperror2.png)

T:-40.9/ -273.1. B:-39.7 to -41.4 (it fluctuates)/ -273.1 @:0

Does anyone have any idea what is the issue I'm facing?

first connection problem (6 replies)

ddavide88 — Thu, 16 Apr 2015 08:25:16 -0400

Hello everybody,
I have just finished my huxley duo, I connect the usb to the pc and nothing works.. no led turns on and the pc doesn't read the new hardware connected.
I tried to connect the PSU and the fun starts working and a red led next to the y endstop turns on.

Do you think my Duet usb doesn't work?
Could you help me?

thanks in advance
Davide