I've just started my 2nd roll of ABS filament. I wanted to once again try and do some calibration on it. I've found in the past, I've had a hard time figuring out what the lowest temperature I can print at should be. I've gone through Triffid Hunter's calibration guide. It says to print an object where you can clearly see the infill and start lowering the temperature during printing until you see the infill go "dotty". Then raise the temperature by 10 degrees, etc. My first roll of ABS I settled on about 230-235 degrees. I've never been able to really get the filament to go "dotty". This new filament, I started at 235 degrees and as my print was printing, I would slowly lower the temp by 5 degrees and let it print a couple layers after the temp stabilized. I got all the way down to 200 and still nothing dotty, the extruder didn't seem to be bogged down, nothing. The infill still looked fine. After trying to print my first object at 205, I noticed the top infill layers had some holes, so I increased the temp to 215. It still seems too low to me. What other kinds of things should I see if the temperature is too low if I'm not seeing any extruder issues? What I think I noticed is that I do seem to get what looks like little fibers of filament sometimes when the head moves to a new position. They really look like just cotton fibers, not like ooze. I bumped the temp up again another 10 degrees and I think that might have helped with that. Using an E3Dv5 hotend, by the way. https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,389937#msg-389937 Fri, 12 Jun 2026 10:50:52 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,391377#msg-391377 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,391377#msg-391377 Like develop a standard testing method for testing filaments from dif manufacturers and making the data available

And the project everyone keeps talking about where you take pics of printing problems then when you solve them a pic of the resolved print and how it was solved etc.

I just put the black abs i originally used in the printer to test. It's WET despite being stored a while with silica but it extruded awful even without the bubbles. I have clear from ebay that is amazing. and blue that seems good but seems to warp even more...]]> cdreid9999 Printing Tue, 05 Aug 2014 23:27:38 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,390862#msg-390862 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,390862#msg-390862 Most of the time i print ABS in the 240°C - 250°C Range
Going above the recommended printing temperature can cause degradation of the material and clogging.]]> Srek Printing Mon, 04 Aug 2014 03:18:25 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,390835#msg-390835 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,390835#msg-390835 brucehvn Printing Mon, 04 Aug 2014 01:37:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,390126#msg-390126 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,390126#msg-390126 Floyd Printing Fri, 01 Aug 2014 13:40:51 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,389937#msg-389937 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,389937,389937#msg-389937
My first roll of ABS I settled on about 230-235 degrees.

I've never been able to really get the filament to go "dotty". This new filament, I started at 235 degrees and as my print was printing, I would slowly lower the temp by 5 degrees and let it print a couple layers after the temp stabilized. I got all the way down to 200 and still nothing dotty, the extruder didn't seem to be bogged down, nothing. The infill still looked fine.

After trying to print my first object at 205, I noticed the top infill layers had some holes, so I increased the temp to 215. It still seems too low to me. What other kinds of things should I see if the temperature is too low if I'm not seeing any extruder issues?

What I think I noticed is that I do seem to get what looks like little fibers of filament sometimes when the head moves to a new position. They really look like just cotton fibers, not like ooze. I bumped the temp up again another 10 degrees and I think that might have helped with that.

Using an E3Dv5 hotend, by the way.]]> brucehvn Printing Fri, 01 Aug 2014 05:35:15 -0400