Hi, I´m printing ABS 1,75mm on a MK3 heatbed (~120°C), with kapton tape and abs/acetone juice. My problem is to get the parts off the platform when the print is finished. The ABS is just too strong connected to the heatbed. Most time i can´t remove the object without destroying it. I´ve tried cool and hot heatbed - doesn´t make a difference. The use of a metal scraper destroys every time the Kapton Tape and damages the object, it is no solution to me. Any ideas how to remove my prints safely? Greetings https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,452904#msg-452904 Fri, 04 Sep 2026 16:37:53 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453197#msg-453197 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453197#msg-453197
Demo here:
[youtu.be]]]> Plasteroid Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 18:16:33 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453158#msg-453158 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453158#msg-453158 I work at 50% of saturation and 110 deg C for the first layer then 100 deg C for the rest.
Clean the kapton off with acetone first then coat with 50% juice. It leaves a thinner layer of ABS on the kapton after it evaporates.]]> dave3d Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 16:02:09 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453095#msg-453095 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453095#msg-453095
I´ve started with plain Kapton on MK3 (no way @110°C), then tried hairpray but it didn´t work "that" good. And now with the juice / slurry it sticks too good.
The mixture is nearly only acetone, beacause with more abs in it the removing was even more worse.
I got better results with higher bed temperature, less warping an cracking noise.

"Are you waiting for the bed to cool before you attempt to remove the part? "
- Yes. Even reheating and cooling didn´t work.

Probably i got bad filament, it was really cheap 14 Euro per kg and also not vacuum sealed.
I got a nice PLA filament for christmas (click).
Maybe i´ll use that and try the ABS later (or never) :S.

But before that I´ll try to start even slower and colder (20mm/s, 110°C, only Kapton).]]> mlotz3004 Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 12:45:12 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453055#msg-453055 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453055#msg-453055 I run my bed up to 110DegC with a brim for larger parts that are at risk of lifting.
But for most stuff just 90DegC with no brim is more than enough on kapton tape.

Usually it comes of easy enough with a bit of teasing under the brim.
But for more stubborn parts i tease of the brim then give the part a
short sharp knock with the handle of a heavy screwdriver and it pops off.

Gordon]]> gordonendersby Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 10:42:14 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453004#msg-453004 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,453004#msg-453004 I run at 110 and mine pops off after its cooled down.
I print on straight glass with hair spray for adhesion.]]> Floyd Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 08:44:48 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,452988#msg-452988 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,452988#msg-452988
Are you waiting for the bed to cool before you attempt to remove the part?]]> IMBoring25 Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 08:04:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,452904#msg-452904 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,452904,452904#msg-452904 My problem is to get the parts off the platform when the print is finished.
The ABS is just too strong connected to the heatbed. Most time i can´t remove the object without destroying it.

I´ve tried cool and hot heatbed - doesn´t make a difference. The use of a metal scraper destroys every time the Kapton Tape and damages the object, it is no solution to me.

Any ideas how to remove my prints safely?

Greetings]]> mlotz3004 Printing Fri, 09 Jan 2015 04:45:40 -0500