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ggherbaz
I use 50 on the bed if part is small, and increase it as the size of the part increases, so that part it's ok.

Now 180 it's kind of cold for PLA, and you can suffer delamination if printing fast. The least I print at is 195 and go up to 220 on certain colors and filament quality.

On the photo you posted, it looks like extrusion failure more than delamination because the rest of the print is perfect and you can see on the right side the blob the extruder created when started extruding again, so most likely your temperature was too low.

I have printed several pokemons for my kid and since they are small I print on the low side of temperature and slow speed for better details, try to raise temperature to 195 and keep speed under 40mm per second.

If your infill to perimeter overlap is too big you will have the drooling you mention so just reduce it when printing small parts or when using small walls.

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ggherbaz
On top of the sensor is a trimpot that you can use to increase or decrease sensing distance.

The one you posted is for up to 5mm distance, mine is up to 10mm buth it is much thicker and heavier so keep it close to nozzle height, if you can design the housing make the insert for the nut on top and the hole for the sensor and then thigh from bottom.

I use the LM7805 because I powered the sensor with 12 volts to guarantee reliability and full sensing distance, if I plug the signal to Ramps without a voltage reduction I will fry the board, I don't trust a simple resistor for voltage reduction as many people use, so I use the regulator to secure a true 5 volt signal at the ramps pin. The LM7805 is a simple 3 pin regulator in, ground and out, so I apply the 12 volt signal to in and then ground and out to Ramps, when sensor send a 12 volts signal the regulator convert it to 5 volts which is the maximum voltage that the ramps can take on those pins.

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ggherbaz
I use a capacitive sensor which is heavier and more expensive but work with glass. But either an inductive or better yet an IR sensor will do the job nicely.

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ggherbaz
If only on one side of the print I would assume to be a bed leveling problem, but the part is small and should not be affected by that. I think it's a combination of 2 things: too big of a layer combined with low temperature.

It looks like a 0.3mm layer? And assume you still printing at 185? Change it to 0.2 and go to 195 or even 200 degrees and either keep bed at 60 or raise it to 70.

If that doesn't do it, then try with slower speeds. I cant see in the picture how the first layer looks, if thin in one side and thicker in the other side( where the gaps occurred) then its a leveling problem.

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ggherbaz
I amp is usually enough, and will reduce the load on the driver. If not enough you can go up to 1.7 without problems since the A4988 can handle up to 2 amps, but definitely put a heatsink in the driver and be sure to cool it with a fan all the time.

The best thing to do is to measure each motor coil resistance and use for Z the 2 motors that have the closest value possible.

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ggherbaz
[reprap.org]

It shows how to properly calibrate the stepper drivers.

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ggherbaz
First layer to far from built plate, do not turn of your bed heater, calibrate your Z axis and fix your hotend fan.