Printing issues ... https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?262 Mon, 05 Oct 2026 23:15:18 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897692,897692#msg-897692 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897692,897692#msg-897692 How was bonding ?
How much shrinkage/distortion after the build ?

Regards]]> sbkenn Printing Mon, 10 Aug 2026 10:50:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897549,897549#msg-897549 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897549,897549#msg-897549 After years working with CNC machining and G-code (and seeing the same mistakes over and over again), I decided to put everything I’ve learned into something practical — not theory-heavy, but actually useful on the shop floor. So I created a complete 5-book path, covering everything from absolute beginner to professional-level programming. This is NOT academic stuff — it's built around real-world use, production safety, and hands-on workflows.

Here’s the breakdown:
]]> cybercraze70 Printing Mon, 20 Apr 2026 03:47:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897369,897369#msg-897369 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897369,897369#msg-897369 After building a CoreXY with a Duet board an BL Touch I got the bug.
I have two Marlin 1.1.8 Delta printers and have been experimenting with UBL and custom probe designs. But I'm not getting what I expect compared to my Duet bed leveling results.
I understand what the probe offsets are about, that is obvious. What I don't understand is how to reflect the actual z offset from the bed with respect to the UBL results.
I have done all my current work with UBL activation off, then run the UBL bed level (G29 P1).

But, what I have found is that I set my z=0 to be 0.1mm off the bed physically with the feeler gauge.
I then run the UBL and find that all its points are higher than the bed, which makes sense, and my center of the bed value is the physical offset I set up. I am not sure what that does to the print.
So.
Is there a way in legacy Marlin to set the Z offset in the source or with gcode to save in EEPROM to be the height above the bed I set my printer to so the UBL will take that into account when calculating its values and the adjustments reflect where the bed actually is?

Or, do I adjust the z probe z offset to take into account the physical z offset to the bed?

I have not found a single bed level explanation that relates the z offset to the UBL offset calculations, so this is not clear to me.
Can someone set me straight on this?

be well,
DLC]]> dlc60 Printing Wed, 17 Dec 2025 00:32:54 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897243,897243#msg-897243 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897243,897243#msg-897243 But I see that there is still need of smoothing the surface of the objects, so I thought about enabling "linear advance" in Marlin 1.1.9.
Is it possible?
My shield is a Ramps 1.4 together with Arduino Mega 2560.]]> Henrique Printing Thu, 09 Oct 2025 15:57:54 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897238,897238#msg-897238 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897238,897238#msg-897238
But the issues never went away. So i turned off arachne to see if that would help, and it did a little bit. So the next thing i did after months of testing, i switched slicers to Ideamaker..... Night and day difference. I am a HUGE slic3r fan and so i have stuck with prusa slicer for a very long time over hte last 10 years of printing.

But im begining to wonder if the newer versions of Prusa slicer are not compatible with 8 bit boards? That is the only thing i can think of because in ideamker, i tested the exact same settings across the slicers, same print orientation, everything and IM produced far better results.

Why is this? i would love it if i could get prusa slicer to print as well because the tree supports in PS are awesome.

thanks]]> LT72884 Printing Thu, 09 Oct 2025 21:31:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897191,897191#msg-897191 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897191,897191#msg-897191 I still don´t uderstand what each command does, in the LCD Display of my 3D printer.
And I feel that I am not exploring all that the printer can give me.
Does anybody know where can I search to understand them all?
Thanks!]]> Henrique Printing Fri, 12 Sep 2025 10:16:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897147,897147#msg-897147 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897147,897147#msg-897147 It seems that the nozzle jumps from certain parts over regions that should not have any print, and, because of the very short distances, the retraction enabled is insuficient.
I think that this could be solved if the nozzle is forced to run just over printed parts, before changing from layer, but I don´t know how to force this.
Is this possible?
I also think that another posibility is to regulate better the retraction in this case, but I don´t have any idea.
Retraction was very well configurated till today, and I have a direct extrusion.
Thanks for any help.]]> Henrique Printing Wed, 03 Sep 2025 17:51:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897097,897097#msg-897097 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897097,897097#msg-897097 I encounter an issue and hope someone will help me.
Material description :
Delta printer kossel type k800xl base
btt skr1.3 +tmc2209
endstop type : simple switch. I do not use sensorless
marlin 2.x.x

It was working before.
When I make a G28 from pronterface or when I make autohoming from printer menu :
all motor went to the origin position and stop when touch endstop exept the one connected to the Z out of motherboard. It touch the endstop, stop and continue trying du force
This Z out is special because there is 2 endstop connected :
1 at position 0 on the top tower
1 ont the printhead for bed leveling
I already tried to:
-switch TMC driver. no change
-switch cable no change
-the last thing I tried is to switch entry Y and entry Z. THis is working. When I switch back it's still not working.

Questions:
-Someone have an idea how to solve this issue ?
-If I let Y and Z switched, will I encounter an issue for the rest ? bed levelling, printing ....
-If I let Y and Z switched on board, do I need to change head endstop from Z connector to Y connector ? and change in marlin Z endstop conf to Y (personnaly I don't think I need to do this as Zmin remain Z min)
I finally can try to use E1 channel but want to be sure there no other solutions before.

I mention I search on different forum and I tried to solve it with help of chatgpt and I review all relevant settings mechanical and in marlin before opening this post

and for your information, It's me and not chatgpt who find idea to switch cable on z and Y out. So chatgpt is not almighty lol.

In all case thank for all people who will help me with this issue.
I gave a max of details, but if someone need more info do not hesitate to ask.
I can also provide config.h and config adv.h if needed.]]> Dgils Printing Sat, 09 Aug 2025 17:21:29 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897083,897083#msg-897083 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897083,897083#msg-897083 I am having difficulties in ensuring the dimensions of objects in my Graber.
I thought that it was only a matter of steps by mm, but it is not just external dimensions.
At the end, inner diameters and distances between holes dont fit.
Is there any kind of checking list or something?
Thank you all!]]> Henrique Printing Fri, 12 Sep 2025 12:14:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897064,897064#msg-897064 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897064,897064#msg-897064 Now i have a new board with anet a6 on it
How can i make the screen work on this board
it is a screen from tronxy rep rap discount smart controler
LCD 12864]]> JerryBoot Printing Sat, 02 Aug 2025 12:22:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897063,897063#msg-897063 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,897063,897063#msg-897063 wen the same print from sd cart is set to a ender or a A 3 printer it works wel
So i think that the printer settings must be adjusted
How en wher is this to do en how to safe the adjustment to the printer]]> JerryBoot Printing Sat, 02 Aug 2025 12:18:09 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,896968,896968#msg-896968 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,896968,896968#msg-896968 I have a CR 10 V2 3D printer, and whenever I try to calibrate z offset, after comanding auto home, the z axis does not stop moving downward.
No matter if I comand to go up or down, it moves down and does no stop till crash to the heated bed.
Also, it does not matter if I comando 0,1mm, 1mm or 10 mm in any direction!
It will move down till crashing to the heated bed.
Does anyone have a solution for this?
Thank you all!]]> Henrique Printing Fri, 01 Aug 2025 10:35:58 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,896460,896460#msg-896460 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,896460,896460#msg-896460 github.com] to parse it to x3g format to use on the creator pro, the creator simply will not prima, sometimes just heating up, sometimes leveling then sending the bed to the bottom and printing midair in the corner, not the center where the bench y was placed. I have used AI’s and other sources to try to fix this, and the AI finally gave up and suggested some 3d printing forums, this among them. I would appreciate any help available, after all I got these 10 year old printers for free. I also would be ok with downloading a new slicer but they all are outdated or their download pages have expired domains. Thank you!
Edit: I will post this on a few forums in the hopes that it will get more responses]]> Wilde_Bill Printing Thu, 23 Jan 2025 20:23:55 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,896162,896162#msg-896162 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,896162,896162#msg-896162 At first everything worked fine, but later..
1: from time to time i have random movement of xy during print, hotend goes to end of hotbed without extruding, and then get back to print position and it contiunes normal! Problem is not big deal as print is fine in the end but still i dont know what couse it.
2: During print, at first/second layer, hotend move to random position on bed still extruding, then it get back to print position and contiunes normaly. Still, print is done so its not big problem. Line thats out of print is seen on picture
3: Hotend randomly stops for few second and then continues normally. Temps is normal, not fluctuating
4: Worst problem of all.. : Z axis goes to up position at very fast speed and continues printing mid air, in that case print is fcked as seen in image.
Still, usually it prints normal without all (some) mentioned problems.
Board is skr 1.4 turbo, curent firmware marlin 2.1.2.5 but its same with other two.
That happend i think after i changed homing/probe feedrate and Z feedrate to properly match my configuration. I also enabled junction deviation and did proper calibration. I dont understand what could be real problem, i even suspect motherboard.
Any help would be appreciated!]]> mnikola2 Printing Tue, 26 Nov 2024 09:50:38 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895797,895797#msg-895797 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895797,895797#msg-895797 With this setting #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 320, 320, 1600, 388.3496 } it only buzzez.
With default #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 500 } it move a bit but not as it should.]]> Cosmin35 Printing Fri, 20 Sep 2024 08:18:32 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895707,895707#msg-895707 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895707,895707#msg-895707 [attachment 121084 concave.jpg]
mostly at the same position and I don´t know how to remove it
[attachment 121080 DSC00339_.jpg]
the foto looks worse because of the light. my only concern is the gap (red arrwows)

the filament is a petg and my slicer is Prusa 2.6. ( I have to use this 2, so orca slicer .... is not an option)

my guess is the transition from perimeter with infill to only perimeter lines
[attachment 121082 2024-09-0313_07.png]
[attachment 121083 2024-09-0313_08.png]

I will give a reward of 30 US Dollar with pay pal to whoom solves the problem

gcode link to file
[drive.google.com]]]> BaumannRenfert Printing Fri, 06 Sep 2024 06:15:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895521,895521#msg-895521 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895521,895521#msg-895521
Video of issue

I’ve tried tightening/loosening the belts, I’ve check the frame squareness, rebuilt the carriage, re-printed and beefed up all the parts, changed all the pulleys and their posts, tightened everything, greased the bearing blocks, changed motor currents, changed micro stepping, all to no avail.

Struggling with this one. I’ve redesigned everything, it’s very similar to the parts for a Voron, in an attempt to stabilise the X axis if that was the problem but nope.

Definitely sounds like it’s something in the carriage but I’ve checked and rechecked all the fixings, rebuilt it numerous times. Nothing is loose.

Any help would really be appreciated.

No going to lie, it’s breaking me.]]> Syko_Symatic Printing Fri, 24 Apr 2026 08:33:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895396,895396#msg-895396 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895396,895396#msg-895396
*I'm thinking about getting a 3D printer for me and my kids, but I'm worried about the 3D design part since I have no experience. Recently, at the Nantes Maker Campus, I met some people who showed me their site, Chat3D.ai, which creates 3D models from images or text. I've tryed their tryal plan and the 3d models seems of good quality. I saw they have a cheap plan that costs "only" 5€.*

*Does anyone have any experience with it?*

*These 3d model are made by that software, I did screenshot, it seems alright to me.*]]> mnjean Printing Thu, 22 May 2025 15:17:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895017,895017#msg-895017 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895017,895017#msg-895017 Note: Also, I can't make this approach work by the mixing extruder option as I have a combination of single nozzles with the co-axial ones. Overall, 4 steppers (2 attached to the coaxial nozzle and 2 other steppers where each one is connected to a single nozzle).]]> Anarch-bit Printing Tue, 11 Jun 2024 10:23:51 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895006,895006#msg-895006 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,895006,895006#msg-895006
To my eye it looks like the extruder motor is skipping steps on the unretraction, however it is an e3d titan with tmc2208 running 32 micro steps(reduced from 64), enough amps to get the stepper toasty and only asking 33mm/2 on the unretract also firmware #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2000

The plastic is PETG, have made sure is nice and dry before printing, shown is the most recent print that has one good seam yet also has terrible stringing on the other end of the same print.

I think I've ruled out skipping steps, but no idea what else this could be, any thoughts?
[attachment 120965 Print.png]
[attachment 120966 Settings.png]]]> DaGameFace Printing Wed, 28 Aug 2024 14:43:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894994,894994#msg-894994 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894994,894994#msg-894994
I get issue when printing borders, on the picture I have vertical layer after layer not gluing for the whole vertical border surounding print.
I do not get any issue with filling print part and it's correctly melted at the base and also at the start area of a layer
see the pic to understand.

I print on : ender 3v2
2mm thick border
normal speed
element modeled in fusion360 exported in 3fm to cura.
temp 207 / 67 I also tried 209/67 without change


any idea ?]]> Dgils Printing Sat, 08 Jun 2024 11:12:18 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894972,894972#msg-894972 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894972,894972#msg-894972
I've been using my Prusa i3 MK3 for about a year now and it's been a fantastic experience. However, I am looking to take my print quality to the next level. I've read about various upgrades, but I am a bit overwhelmed with the options.

I am particularly interested in improving the following:

Print surface finish - How can I achieve smoother and more consistent surfaces?
Precision - Any tips on reducing minor inaccuracies and improving overall print precision?
Material versatility - I'd like to print with a wider range of materials.

I've already done the basics like calibrating the bed and maintaining the printer regularly. Any advice on specific hardware upgrades or software tweaks would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help.

(Marcos)]]> getsetmarc Printing Sat, 17 Aug 2024 20:00:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894929,894929#msg-894929 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894929,894929#msg-894929
I am trying to do some tests by changing the nozzle temperature while printing. What I am doing is printing 5 columns each at a different temperature, from 180 to 220ºC. As you can see in the gcode, the temperature is set to 180ºC in the start code and prints one line. Then, it moves to the first position and prints the first column at 180ºC, and then the second at 190ºC and so on. But what is actually happening is that when the first line is already printed and the nozzle is moving to the first position the temperature starts to rise to 190ºC, and when it reaches it to 200ºC and so on until it reaches the last temperature. But this happens before the nozzle reaches the first position and starts printing the first column. It seems that the printer is not reading the gcode sequentially. I've tried positioning the M109 line in other lines and using M104 instead but nothing happens. What could be happening?

Thank you so much!

GCODE:

G21 ;set units to millimeters

G90 ;use absolute coordinates

G92 E0 ;reset extruder position

G28 ;home all axes

M190 S60 ;set bed temperature to 60 and wait

M109 S180 ;set extruder temperature to 200 and wait

G0 X5 Y5 Z0.2

G1 F600

G1 Y150 E7.576

G1 Y5 E15.151

G92 X0 Y0 Z0 ;set current position as origin

M109 S180 ;set extruder temperature to 180 and wait

G1 X0.000 Y0.000 Z10.000 F600 E-4.848980

G0 X50.000 Y50.000

G0 Z0.000 F600

G0 E15.151 F600

G1 Z10 E15.673 F5 ; print column

M109 S190 ;set extruder temperature to 190 and wait

G1 X50.000 Y50.000 Z20.000 F600 E-4.326531

G0 X75.000 Y50.000

G0 Z0.000 F600

G0 E15.673 F600

G1 Z10 E16.196 F5 ; print column

M109 S200 ;set extruder temperature to 200 and wait

G1 X75.000 Y50.000 Z20.000 F600 E-3.804082

G0 X100.000 Y50.000

G0 Z0.000 F600

G0 E16.196 F600

G1 Z10 E16.718 F5 ; print column

M109 S210 ;set extruder temperature to 210 and wait

G1 X100.000 Y50.000 Z20.000 F600 E-3.281633

G0 X125.000 Y50.000

G0 Z0.000 F600

G0 E16.718 F600

G1 Z10 E17.241 F5 ; print column

M109 S220 ;set extruder temperature to 220 and wait

G1 X125.000 Y50.000 Z20.000 F600 E-2.759184

G0 X150.000 Y50.000

G0 Z0.000 F600

G0 E17.241 F600

G1 Z10 E17.763 F5 ; print column

G91

G1 E-2 F2700

G1 Z10 E-2 F2400 ;raise the extruder 1 cm

M104 S0 ;turn off the extruder

M140 S0 ;turn off the bed

M106 S0 ;turn off the fan

M84 ;disable motors]]> abernadi Printing Mon, 03 Jun 2024 07:58:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894679,894679#msg-894679 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894679,894679#msg-894679
- printer starting, power fun is working
- screen have stuck image, have no any reactions on any buttons

I' tried to disconnect motors and heating plate, but have no positive effect.
Maybe someone had this problem too? Which else I'll could check?

---

motherboard model: mks gen 2z v1.1]]> mayson Printing Tue, 23 Apr 2024 04:51:13 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894092,894092#msg-894092 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,894092,894092#msg-894092


I have an old CTC Bizer with dual extruder and Sailfish 7.7

Slicer: Makerbot Desktop; I couldn't get anything else to work

I did some test prints which were successful.



Now I wanted to do a two-color print.

I sliced an object in Makerbot Desktop and send it to the printer.



After heating, both extruders are primed succesfully.



THE PROBLEM:



It then moves to X until the end (on the side without an end stop) and doesn't stop.

Which causes the belts to skip to infinity.

With Single Extrusion it does this too, BUT after 2/3 jumps of the belt it notices and starts printing.



What can I do against it?]]> Joschi Printing Fri, 25 Oct 2024 07:25:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893772,893772#msg-893772 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893772,893772#msg-893772 I made a model of a christmass ornament ball, Sliced it for 0,8mm nozzle mostly a vase mode but top part is regular 3 layers cap due to overhangs
It prints fine on 3 printers but on the modyfied ender 3 i own it behaves as if every filement was wet for the first 15 milimeters of height and then clars up.
I have no idea what is going on because it prints the whole rest of the mopdel even better than the other printers especially the top part, but on the bottom, poping noises, stringing very rough finish and ocasional small pinholes or straiht up random holes.
But it always always clears up the longer it prints or faster (130% speed of the same file and up).
i am using the same gcode on my homemade printer, work owned ender 3 s1 and some creality white cube with chaimbor modyfied by x3d, and my ender 3 at home
i even used the same spool of filement, i tryed pla and abs, dry and wet
and even though on freshly dryed pla or abs the artifacting is smaller, it always persists in the same area of the print stacked 0,1mm layers at 45 degree angle but only on the bottom

failing multicolored print was just a straw that broke camel's back

i need to figure out what is going on with the hotend in my printer because i pretty much certain it is something silly like bad thermistor contact
ender 3 is running stock creality hotend it came with, but so is my homemade printer although i regularly swap heat blocks to new ones when i break the threads
[attachment 120624 pinkplaprintingslow-leftvsprintingfast-right.jpg]
[attachment 120625 greenwetabs.jpg]
[attachment 120626 brandnewpla.jpg]
[attachment 120627 dryyellowpla.jpg]
[attachment 120628 bluedryabs.jpg]]]> kokodin Printing Sat, 11 Nov 2023 13:55:45 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893733,893733#msg-893733 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893733,893733#msg-893733
Recently, I switched to ABS and have printed several pieces without problem (they have all been about 20mm high) but now I am trying to print something 35mm high and it keeps reporting "bed thermal runaway" at various stages all about 15-20mm above the bed.

The piece is a simple 50% fill cylinder 20mm diameter and 35mm long printed vertically.

The temp display on the screen shows the correct bed temp (100C) but the system is frozen.
Pressing the reset button does NOTHING --- only a power cycle will get it working again !!!
I didnt think that was possible !?

Edit 1: More info --- At the point of failure the bed temp has DROPPED to 97.2C from the initial target of 100C.

Edit 2: I tried it again with PLA+ and a bed temp of 60C and it worked flawlessly.

What on earth could be causing this ??
Any help very welcome
Dave]]> softfoot Printing Sun, 26 Nov 2023 00:34:03 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893440,893440#msg-893440 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893440,893440#msg-893440
I use Marlin firmware 2.1.2.1. motherboard: Octopus pro V1.1 (H723)
Bigtreetech.

Printer: Cartesian - x-axis with ribbon - y-axis with ribbon, both with nema 23 closed stepper motor and both axes with separate motor and stepper driver Cl1-507.
The Z axis is driven by 4 spindles, each with its own motor, they are connected in 2 series, each series with its own driver: MKS TB6600 v1.1 2014.
E axis 1 extruder A4988.

X Y and Z run on power around the motherboard.

I have purchased 4 pieces: Description:
3D Printer Motor Drive Converter Adapter Converter Expansion Adapter for Big 57 86 Motors.
Package includes:
6 x 3D printer motor drive converter adapter boards (3D printer motherboard not included).
6 x 6-pin connection cable

For mounting in the motherboard.

Questions:

How to setup this in marlin firmware. it is not possible to add above drivers in configaration.h.? Should one then choose one of the possible drivers, for example A4988.?

In configaration adv.h, Line 2329 Can a new minimum delay be set, and if you choose this it is then possible to link these to the 2 different external drivers with different values, corresponding to the needs of the 2 drivers.?

Hope someone can answer my questions, it will be a great help.

John Stephansen]]> johnstephansen Printing Fri, 15 Sep 2023 12:03:21 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893337,893337#msg-893337 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893337,893337#msg-893337 rudranshsinghmahra Printing Tue, 31 Oct 2023 20:14:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893247,893247#msg-893247 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,893247,893247#msg-893247 rudranshsinghmahra Printing Tue, 15 Aug 2023 13:53:23 -0400