hi all, was printing a tall tube (OD 12.7, ID 9) for a part i needed and thought it would be good challenge to see the smallest diameter tube we could print. ie. tall and skinny might fall or be pulled over or melt sorry no prises just the challenge. so has to be 95mm high (thats as high as i can go - i want to print some too) has to be min 0.4 dia nozzle PLA has to be hollow - like a needle wide brim at bottom allowed - max height 2 layers i assume will be just 1 layer around - very tight hope these parameters are ok as i would like to learn some setting from the pros. please indicate if they are not or any more should be added, cheers, roger. PS if it turns out easy to do then will be the fastest https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167443#msg-167443 Sun, 12 Jul 2026 02:51:51 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,169879#msg-169879 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,169879#msg-169879 rogerw Competitions Wed, 05 Dec 2012 16:54:43 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,169878#msg-169878 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,169878#msg-169878 repitier is a higher level program to help you run your prints.
it can connect to your printer and let you move the nozzle around and squeeze out some plastic.
when you are ready to print your object
it allows you to call another program (SLIC3R) to slice your model up into horz slices.
PLA is the type of plastic that i print with.
I do not print ceramic but some other people might know if this is possible.
roger]]> rogerw Competitions Wed, 05 Dec 2012 16:53:46 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,169790#msg-169790 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,169790#msg-169790 imecproto Competitions Wed, 05 Dec 2012 08:08:52 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167915#msg-167915 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167915#msg-167915
I have not done it for a while, but I used to cut my Gcode up into two files, just where the insert needs to be made. But pause and home also works well.

Cheers

Rich.]]> richrap Competitions Sat, 24 Nov 2012 13:39:27 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167884#msg-167884 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167884#msg-167884 roger,]]> rogerw Competitions Sat, 24 Nov 2012 07:39:49 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167821#msg-167821 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167821#msg-167821 am bit worried that when i pause it will melt a hole whereever it is the nozzle stops - is this a big concern - is there a way around it. should i add some thing in the gcode to say move the nozzle away then then do a pause??
thanks
roger.]]> rogerw Competitions Fri, 23 Nov 2012 17:12:34 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167726#msg-167726 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167726#msg-167726 im printing a part right now which has a 2mm rebate on the bottom . i used support but the support lines were starting to loose their grip on the bed. not sure what it will look like. i think i will lay in the 2mm shape (a hex) with kapton on top - love that idea.
thank you
roger]]> rogerw Competitions Fri, 23 Nov 2012 07:31:48 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167701#msg-167701 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167701#msg-167701 -------------------------------------------------------

> PS. do people sometimes put things into a print as
> it is going eg. embed a nut? or add some support
> structure

Yes, I have added plastic balls to hollow objects (to make them rattle) trapped nuts to parts and safety pins to badges as they print, all good fun, just watch out for the hot bit!

When printing this model I also tend to use a cardboard ring with Kapton on the top, that way you don't need to use support and the cardboard ring just peals away leaving perfect bearing balls. you just need to insert it right before it starts to print the first layer of the balls.]]> richrap Competitions Fri, 23 Nov 2012 04:53:59 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167639#msg-167639 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167639#msg-167639 rogerw
PS. do people sometimes put things into a print as it is going eg. embed a nut? or add some support structure]]> rogerw Competitions Thu, 22 Nov 2012 16:39:24 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167537#msg-167537 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167537#msg-167537
The smallest possible tube with a FDM-head will consist of two parallel strands, one above the other, with a thin steel wire placed on the first before printing the second ... then pull the wire and you'll get the tube :D]]> VDX Competitions Thu, 22 Nov 2012 07:23:41 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167532#msg-167532 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167532#msg-167532 halved that for
'B' OD 6.35 ID 4
and then
'A' the staligmite failed to be hollow but stood tall at OD 3.175 ID 2mm
roger]]> rogerw Competitions Thu, 22 Nov 2012 07:11:59 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167443#msg-167443 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?282,167443,167443#msg-167443 was printing a tall tube (OD 12.7, ID 9) for a part i needed and thought it
would be good challenge to see the smallest diameter tube we could print.
ie. tall and skinny might fall or be pulled over or melt
sorry no prises just the challenge.
so has to be 95mm high (thats as high as i can go - i want to print some too)
has to be min 0.4 dia nozzle
PLA
has to be hollow - like a needle
wide brim at bottom allowed - max height 2 layers
i assume will be just 1 layer around - very tight
hope these parameters are ok as i would like to learn some setting from the pros.
please indicate if they are not or any more should be added,
cheers,
roger.

PS if it turns out easy to do then will be the fastest]]> rogerw Competitions Wed, 21 Nov 2012 19:23:44 -0500