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        <title>The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
        <description>Most of the parts have arrived for my tall-merod and I&#039;ve built the frame. In a moment of recklessness I went for 550mm parts for the Y axis and 1000mm for Z. The bed I&#039;ve ordered is only 300mm x 200mm but that leaves me room for future upgrades, plus as long as the object&#039;s footprint is within that size I can theoretically print up to 400mm wide!

I&#039;m still using the 200x200 bed for now as I&#039;m waiting to buy a pillar drill so I can do a decent job of extending the bed support, and I haven&#039;t bought a 24V power supply yet either. The pillar drill will also be used to drill out a heater block to fit a 6mm 24V heater cartridge. Thanks to dc42 and DaveK for all the advice on that front.

I expected to have to print some kind of wall bracket to clamp round the top of this beast. Now I&#039;ve built it it&#039;s surprisingly sturdy, but there is still some inevitable wobble. First print will be said bracket.

Frame assembled, stepper motors reattached (note the most important bit, snazzy new colour scheme!):
[attachment 36764 20140716_002340.jpg]

Y belt attached and tensioned, extended ribbon cable crimped and attached, X arm put back on:
[attachment 36765 20140716_210607.jpg]

Finally, cables chopped in half and spliced with 750mm of extra wire:
[attachment 36766 20140716_225118.jpg]

Fired her up and everything seemed to function. Almost... I was a bit worried about the potential voltage drop with all the extra resistance introduced, but as I didn&#039;t measure it beforehand I can&#039;t compare. I found the Duet wiring diagram in the instructions pages and wired it up perfectly, then sat there scratching my head for 10 minutes wondering why my Z probe didn&#039;t work. Crossed wires when splicing? Too much extra cable, not enough of 3.3V getting to the IR sensor? Then I read the text highlighted in bright red above the diagram explaining that it was for 0.78 firmware and the probe pin has moved, my printer is still on 0.59-dc42. Doh! Once I verify it can still print I&#039;ll set about upgrading to 0.78.

I&#039;m also going to have to turn the accelerations down a bit I think, especially when I attempt tall prints!

I&#039;ll keep the updates coming when I get around to testing.</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,384517#msg-384517</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2026 11:04:58 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,393670#msg-393670</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,393670#msg-393670</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It would possibly work by having a sacrificial column placed in the Y direction from the part, and adding a thin bridge from the part to the column every 50mm or so.<br />
<br />
Dave<br />
(#106)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dmould</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 11 Aug 2014 11:27:27 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392606#msg-392606</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392606#msg-392606</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I guess that for parts as tall as you have now described that sword, flexing of the print even when cold is also an issue.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 08 Aug 2014 17:26:36 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392600#msg-392600</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392600#msg-392600</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I had considered that, but the rest of the 'blade' section of the sword was fine up to around 600mm, at which point it had enough flex to start noticably moving about along the x-axis (the widest dimension of the blade was aligned with the y-axis to combat the wobble I foresaw). By 830mm it hadn't gone far enough out to overhang on any layers but was much more visible. Each new layer of filament being deposited from the head must have pulled the part around slightly, coupled with minor momentum from the bed movements.<br />
<br />
It took more than 12 hours to print as it was, if I were to slow it down even more and add a sacrificial pillar I could probably achieve a decent result but I'm not willing to use the filament and time required to find out at the moment.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 08 Aug 2014 17:16:43 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392592#msg-392592</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392592#msg-392592</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The main problem with printing tall thin objects is that each layer doesn't have time to solidify before the next is printed.  Solutions include printing 2 of them at once, and printing a sacrificial column at the same time.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 08 Aug 2014 17:00:15 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392588#msg-392588</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,392588#msg-392588</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sorry for not replying, been fairly busy of late and not been doing much printing. Got my aluminium profile and 12mm rod from the same place as RRP. I didn't tap the first two M6 holes i screwed in but they wore my arm out so much I ended up tapping the rest! I already had a cheap tap and die set kicking around, pretty much as kwikius suggested.<br />
<br />
Not been able to afford all the bits to make the extended bed/24V upgrade yet. I have too many other hobbies to plunge my money into 8-) Will post some details as and when I get around to it.<br />
<br />
I tried printing a sword the other day just to see how it would come out but even with speeds and accelerations turned right down the part itself wobbled around so much at the top that the layers were noticably out of sync. It essentially just confirmed my thought that thin and tall objects are more suited to delta-type printers, but I had to try!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 08 Aug 2014 16:52:27 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,390338#msg-390338</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,390338#msg-390338</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
[...]<br />
Also, will the M6 screws self-tap into it as they did for the extrusions supplied by RRP, or do you think I should order it tapped?</div></blockquote>
<br />
Probably cheaper and easier to just get a <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40pc-Metric-Tap-Die-Set-M3-to-M12-c-w-Plastic-Store-Case-Wrench-Stock-CT1426-1K2-/140902662114?_trksid=p2054897.l4275" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">tap and die set</a>. To use just screw in 180 degrees, break back 90 degrees and repeat until done.<br />
<br />
Once you have a basic set you can upgrade it with better quality taps of different tolerances<br />
<br />
regards<br />
Andy]]></description>
            <dc:creator>kwikius</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 02 Aug 2014 11:10:28 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389810#msg-389810</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389810#msg-389810</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've used the 12mm smooth rod from [www.marchantdice.com] on my upgrade x-axis it looks to be good, much better than the stuff I originally got when I put together my first Mendel printer. I might replace the rods on that printer at some time with rods from this supplier.<br />
Just note that they sell by the 100mm so I ended up buying 2x 350 12mm rods, that way I didn't loose the 50mm as an off cut. I am tight with money like that. :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ezwul</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 18:46:56 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389787#msg-389787</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389787#msg-389787</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks Ian!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 16:53:10 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389754#msg-389754</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389754#msg-389754</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ hi<br />
<br />
i have a steel 10.9 rod.....the company i´m working sells them.....<br />
<br />
 it´s very good. Think also a A2 maybe is good. But A2 is only the outside of the rod. in the rod it is only normal 8.8 steel.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>muggi</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 15:14:09 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389738#msg-389738</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389738#msg-389738</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ @dc42: we get the extrusion from [<a href="http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.kjnltd.co.uk</a>] . The good thing is they don't charge for each cut, which many other companies do. We got the longer 12mm smooth rod from [<a href="http://www.marchantdice.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.marchantdice.com</a>] . Finding good quality M5 A2 stainless threaded rod is tougher - I'm not sure who supplies our normal rods.<br />
<br />
Ian<br />
RepRapPro tech support]]></description>
            <dc:creator>droftarts</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:25:14 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389596#msg-389596</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389596#msg-389596</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ With steel M6 screws, tapping into aluminium is pretty easy. If you don't have stainless screws, you might want to have a "sacrificial screw" to use as a tap, and just be a bit careful not to overtighten as it is easy to completely strip the threads. I at least wouldn't pay someone £1.10 per hole to do that for me... ;)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jstck</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 08:25:37 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389514#msg-389514</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,389514#msg-389514</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi static65,<br />
<br />
I'm thinking of making my Ormerod taller (don't worry, I'm not trying to break your record, I only want to increase the height to 600mm or so). Can you tell me whether this [<a href="http://www.metallin.co.uk/shop/series-5/profile-5/aluminium-profile-5-40x20.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.metallin.co.uk</a>] is the correct type of extrusion? Also, will the M6 screws self-tap into it as they did for the extrusions supplied by RRP, or do you think I should order it tapped?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 04:09:37 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388877#msg-388877</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388877#msg-388877</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I was very interested in the filastruder, and did some reading of the comments on it and similar DIY products, but it doesn't look as if it is all that easy to obtain consistent results.  Air holes in the filament seems to be the biggest problem as well as variable diameter.<br />
<br />
Dave<br />
(#106)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dmould</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2014 13:50:57 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388705#msg-388705</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388705#msg-388705</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If you only want it for the cost savings and possible recycling, there are a bunch of machines that take pellets and turn into filament. Usually called "filament extruders", like the <a href="http://www.filastruder.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Filastruder</a>. They guess they basically just have one of those built in, skipping the intermediate step of filament. I think the very thick filament they would need for a 6-7mm nozzle would just be impractical, as it would be very stiff. It may be all in my head, but I would imagine you want filament a bit thicker than the nozzle, to be able to put some pressure on the stuff inside the hotend.<br />
<br />
I can see some issues with it though, I don't think it would give you very good precision or accurate control over the feed rate, but it might not be much of an issue at that scale. Also, it will add weight to the moving print head, unless they go through the "filament stage" out to the head anyway (which means the printer sort of runs on plain filament anyway).<br />
<br />
For a smaller printer, it would be pretty much impossible to fit that on the moving print head, so you would have to go via filament anyway, and if you do that you might as well just make the filament "in advance". Maybe it could work with a "direct pellet drive" if you have a printer like the K8200 (where the print head only moves in Z, and the bed does the X&amp;Y).]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jstck</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2014 03:10:48 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388505#msg-388505</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388505#msg-388505</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>ezwul</strong><br />
Some brilliant work so far guys, but we are not quite there yet! <a href="http://3dprinterplans.info/15-foot-tall-delta-3d-printer-unveiled-by-seemecnc/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">15-Foot Tall Delta 3D Printer Unveiled by SeeMeCNC</a></div></blockquote>
<br />
This quote caught my eye:<br />
<i>The 15-foot tall SeeMeCNC Partdaddy is capable of printing objects that are extremely big, via a plastic pellet system</i><br />
<i>rather than traditional filament. Printing directly with plastic pellets dramatically reduces the overall cost of printing and</i><br />
<i>is probably the only possible way to print, seeing as the extruder features a 6.35 or 7.25mm nozzle</i><br />
<br />
It would be great to be able to use pellets rather than filament.  Apart from anything else, it would make it possible to recycle scrapped prints by chipping them and putting back into the hopper.<br />
<br />
Does anyone know of an extruder design that works with pellets?<br />
<br />
Dave<br />
(#106)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dmould</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 28 Jul 2014 14:02:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388445#msg-388445</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388445#msg-388445</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Could you share your fan duct design? It looks pretty good on the pictures...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>djar</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 28 Jul 2014 11:07:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388130#msg-388130</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,388130#msg-388130</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Some brilliant work so far guys, but we are not quite there yet! <a href="http://3dprinterplans.info/15-foot-tall-delta-3d-printer-unveiled-by-seemecnc/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">15-Foot Tall Delta 3D Printer Unveiled by SeeMeCNC</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ezwul</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:04:41 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,386032#msg-386032</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,386032#msg-386032</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I;m not really sure what you mean by an amf file. You can import dual extrusion parts and set them up for each extruder pretty easily.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
and for changing the tool head identifier:<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>isonoob</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:38:30 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385862#msg-385862</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385862#msg-385862</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>isonoob</strong><br />
I use Simplify3D... haven't looked back at slic3r since. Speed of slicing is incredible, and no hangups like slic3r has.</div></blockquote>
<br />
Hi isonoob,<br />
<br />
I have a couple of questions about Simplify3D that you might be able to answer:<br />
<br />
1. Does it support merging multiple files into a single .amf file like slic3r does, for multi-extruder machines?<br />
<br />
2. Does it have a configuration option to specify what the first tool number is? slic3r assumes it it T0, but on the Ormerod it is T1.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2014 06:21:09 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385790#msg-385790</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385790#msg-385790</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Cheers dc42, just noticed I have G21 in there twice as well. It's a bit frankenstein-esque as I've been updating it as I go. Time for some cleanup.<br />
<br />
Thanks isonoob, Simplify3D is looking VERY tempting!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2014 03:41:49 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385772#msg-385772</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385772#msg-385772</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Putting your T1 command at the start of the custom gcode would probably have worked, so that it is before the M104 command.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2014 01:42:25 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385750#msg-385750</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385750#msg-385750</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>static65</strong><br />
Next issue: slicing large models. Slic3r lets out a little whimper and rolls over dead when I go above a certain size. Looking at various forums it seems like it's run out of memory even though I have 16GB, I guess it's just not grabbing enough of it. Does anybody know of any other decent slicers?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.simplify3d.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Simplify3D</a> looks the dog's proverbials, but such niceness is never free. Has anyone taken the plunge at $140 yet? If it really is all it claims to be I may be tempted with a favourable exchange rate :D<br />
<br />
<a href="http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Skeinforge</a> gets a lot of mentions but I haven't found a version later than 2012 so not sure if development has died on that one.<br />
<br />
Currently about to try printing some things sliced with the free version of <a href="http://kisslicer.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">KISSlicer</a>, but even that hasn't been updated since May 2013. It's not as nice to work with as Slic3r and lacks the level of customisation for speed and other bits and pieces, so I shall see how it comes out.<br />
<br />
EDIT: KISSlicer seemed to generate sensible g-code but it didn't heat the hot end up. I copied my start g-code from slic3r so it's got the T1 command. It waited for the bed to warm up as normal but then went straight to trying to print. I switched it off at the power supply.<br />
<br />
Comparing the KISSlicer gcode to Slic3r gcode reveals that the latter inserts this straight after my custom gcode, which might be forcing a wait for the head temp?<br />
M109 S190 ; wait for temperature to be reached<br />
G90 ; use absolute coordinates<br />
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion<br />
<br />
And the custom gcode itself, present in both outputs:<br />
G21 ; set units to millimeters<br />
M107<br />
M104 S190 ; set temperature<br />
G21 ; set units to millimeters<br />
G90 ; use absolute coordinates<br />
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion<br />
M140 S60; Set bed temperature<br />
G1 Z5 F200 ; lift nozzle<br />
G1 X2 Y100 F2000; Go to wait for warm position<br />
M116; Wait for all temperatures<br />
G10 P0 S190 R0 ; Set extruder temperature<br />
T1; Select extruder<br />
M116; Wait for all temperatures<br />
<br />
EDIT2: I think I've probably located the issue, I didn't update my start gcode for the new tool numbering, should be G10 P1 S190 R0 not P0. Didn't notice the problem before in Slic3r as it put that M109 S190 in for me. Bit late now, will verify tomorrow after work :)</div></blockquote>
<br />
I use Simplify3D... haven't looked back at slic3r since. Speed of slicing is incredible, and no hangups like slic3r has.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>isonoob</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 22:02:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385730#msg-385730</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385730#msg-385730</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Next issue: slicing large models. Slic3r lets out a little whimper and rolls over dead when I go above a certain size. Looking at various forums it seems like it's run out of memory even though I have 16GB, I guess it's just not grabbing enough of it. Does anybody know of any other decent slicers?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.simplify3d.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Simplify3D</a> looks the dog's proverbials, but such niceness is never free. Has anyone taken the plunge at $140 yet? If it really is all it claims to be I may be tempted with a favourable exchange rate :D<br />
<br />
<a href="http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Skeinforge</a> gets a lot of mentions but I haven't found a version later than 2012 so not sure if development has died on that one.<br />
<br />
Currently about to try printing some things sliced with the free version of <a href="http://kisslicer.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">KISSlicer</a>, but even that hasn't been updated since May 2013. It's not as nice to work with as Slic3r and lacks the level of customisation for speed and other bits and pieces, so I shall see how it comes out.<br />
<br />
EDIT: KISSlicer seemed to generate sensible g-code but it didn't heat the hot end up. I copied my start g-code from slic3r so it's got the T1 command. It waited for the bed to warm up as normal but then went straight to trying to print. I switched it off at the power supply.<br />
<br />
Comparing the KISSlicer gcode to Slic3r gcode reveals that the latter inserts this straight after my custom gcode, which might be forcing a wait for the head temp?<br />
M109 S190 ; wait for temperature to be reached<br />
G90 ; use absolute coordinates<br />
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion<br />
<br />
And the custom gcode itself, present in both outputs:<br />
G21 ; set units to millimeters<br />
M107<br />
M104 S190 ; set temperature<br />
G21 ; set units to millimeters<br />
G90 ; use absolute coordinates<br />
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion<br />
M140 S60; Set bed temperature<br />
G1 Z5 F200 ; lift nozzle<br />
G1 X2 Y100 F2000; Go to wait for warm position<br />
M116; Wait for all temperatures<br />
G10 P0 S190 R0 ; Set extruder temperature<br />
T1; Select extruder<br />
M116; Wait for all temperatures<br />
<br />
EDIT2: I think I've probably located the issue, I didn't update my start gcode for the new tool numbering, should be G10 P1 S190 R0 not P0. Didn't notice the problem before in Slic3r as it put that M109 S190 in for me. Bit late now, will verify tomorrow after work :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 19:18:36 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385696#msg-385696</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385696#msg-385696</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
You have it the right way round; but in the homing files supplied by RRP, it's the X axis that is homed twice (once fast and once slow) not the Y axis.</div></blockquote>
<br />
Whoops, I see what you mean now. I had an RRP Huxley too up until recently, which does the double microswitch homing. I get the two confused.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
The microswitch triggers when the x-carriage is a set height above where the microswitch is mounted. My hot end board triggers when the hot end is at a set height above the bed. So it is less sensitive to variable hot end sag (which causes the height between the hot end and the x-carriage to vary) and to variations in bed mounting, levelling and thickness.</div></blockquote>
<br />
Well, given that I have the bed manually levelled with zero axis compensation and I never need to remove the bed/glass unless I'm changing the kapton (which I've only needed to do twice since last year) I think a microswitch will be more than adequate for my purposes. That's not to say that your hot end board doesn't provide benefits, I just don't think I can justify the extra expenditure on a printer I've already spent upwards of £150 improving :) If I was just getting into the Ormerod then I'd probably buy it!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 16:50:02 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385688#msg-385688</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385688#msg-385688</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>static65</strong><br />
I thought the Y-axis was the axis on which the bed moves and the X-axis is the one on which the nozzle moves? I'll feel a right fool if it's the other way around.</div></blockquote>
<br />
You have it the right way round; but in the homing files supplied by RRP, it's the X axis that is homed twice (once fast and once slow) not the Y axis.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>static65</strong><br />
The only issue I have with the Z-probe is its inability to cope with different light levels, i.e depending on the time of day/how sunny it is will give me different results. I know I could upgrade to a modulated probe or your hot end board, but why spend that money when I can use some wire I have lying around and a microswitch? :)</div></blockquote>
<br />
The microswitch triggers when the <b>x-carriage</b> is a set height above where the <b>microswitch</b> is mounted. My hot end board triggers when the <b>hot end</b> is at a set height above the <b>bed</b>. So it is less sensitive to variable hot end sag (which causes the height between the hot end and the x-carriage to vary) and to variations in bed mounting, levelling and thickness.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 16:34:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385686#msg-385686</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385686#msg-385686</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>static65</strong><br />
Ah but as long as the micro-switch is set correctly would this be a problem? It would home the same way as the Y-axis: fast until triggering the micro-switch, then slow until triggering it again. Would the initial fast homing be too inaccurate and end up in a bed collision? I wouldn't have thought this would be problem given that there is a few mm play before the x-carriage hits the x-arm.</div></blockquote>
On a lot of other printer models, including the Mendel I2 that I have with Marlin firmware, all 3 axis (xyz) are rammed into the micro switches at speed, then backed off and then slowly moved towards the switch as a slower rate to get an accurate position for the home point. This method has worked historically for some time. That's one of the main reasons why I switched to optical end-stops, this alleviated the mechanical stress of the collision and removed the need to print replacement switch holders every 3 months. So It is one methods to home the axis. On the Ormerod the y-axis occurs like this, I think KimBrown has adapted using a micro-switch for x-axis as well. Then the z-axis is left for either manual homing as I was doing or an automated approach which I am trying to get going using RepRapPros/Davids IR probes. <br />
I think you can simulate the old style of Ram/feel for the home position by changing the homing g-code scripts if you wanted.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ezwul</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 16:27:30 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385669#msg-385669</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385669#msg-385669</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
I think you mean the X-axis, not the Y-axis. Yes, you could change the homez.g and homeall.g files to do that. But it doesn't give you anything that you can't do with a z-probe - and if you use my firmware fork, it does the slow/fast homing automatically when you use a z-probe.</div></blockquote>
<br />
I thought the Y-axis was the axis on which the bed moves and the X-axis is the one on which the nozzle moves? I'll feel a right fool if it's the other way around.<br />
<br />
The only issue I have with the Z-probe is its inability to cope with different light levels, i.e depending on the time of day/how sunny it is will give me different results. I know I could upgrade to a modulated probe or your hot end board, but why spend that money when I can use some wire I have lying around and a microswitch? :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 15:42:09 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385643#msg-385643</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385643#msg-385643</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>static65</strong><br />
Ah but as long as the microswitch is set correctly would this be a problem? It would home the same way as the Y-axis: fast until triggering the microswitch, then slow until triggering it again. Would the initial fast homing be too inaccurate and end up in a bed collision? I wouldn't have thought this would be problem given that there is a few mm play before the x-carriage hits the x-arm.</div></blockquote>
<br />
I think you mean the X-axis, not the Y-axis. Yes, you could change the homez.g and homeall.g files to do that. But it doesn't give you anything that you can't do with a z-probe - and if you use my firmware fork, it does the slow/fast homing automatically when you use a z-probe.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 14:33:42 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385575#msg-385575</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385575#msg-385575</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ah but as long as the microswitch is set correctly would this be a problem? It would home the same way as the Y-axis: fast until triggering the microswitch, then slow until triggering it again. Would the initial fast homing be too inaccurate and end up in a bed collision? I wouldn't have thought this would be problem given that there is a few mm play before the x-carriage hits the x-arm.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>static65</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:53:18 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385569#msg-385569</guid>
            <title>Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,384517,385569#msg-385569</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Static65, you can try sending M210 Z300 and M203 Z300 with 0.59-dc42 firmware. Using a microswitch will make things worse because then you lose the fast/slow homing behaviour.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Ormerod</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:37:22 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
    </channel>
</rss>
