Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch Having bought an Ormerod 2 (a 528.5) kit from RepRapPro a couple of years ago I thought I would attempt the "RepRap" principle by building one from scratch. Clearly I can print the relevant parts and I have bought the very nice aluminium X-axis and bed from the relevant suppliers. As my current machine is working I haven't yet risked dismantling my existing machine to install them, hence the new build which will also give me the opportunity to play with DC's new firmware. My questions relate to the acrylic Y-axis end plates A & B, which I assume are mirror imaged versions of the same DXF, to get the slight taper for the 12mm rod to be from the alternative sides 1 Does anybody supply these items, possibly in aluminium? I'm aware that the Duet/power supply assembly also require acrylic pieces and that this assembly braces the Z axis. Problem for another day. 2 I have found the DXF files which I think are for (? some ) of the acrylic and MDF pieces in GitHub [github.com]. I have an MPCNC 2.8w laser machine that I have built. Anyone got ideas of what power laser is needed to cut acrylic. I suspect 2.8W will be too small. I'm aware there are other alternative design around for these pieces, which are meant to stop the Y axis twisting issue but at this point I thought I would start with the original. Thanks in advance Dennis Dennis https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,782083#msg-782083 Sun, 07 Jun 2026 22:22:16 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,844027#msg-844027 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,844027#msg-844027
Yes perfectly. Thanks

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Wed, 09 Jan 2019 04:18:56 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,843984#msg-843984 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,843984#msg-843984 duet3d.dozuki.com] help?]]> dc42 Ormerod Tue, 08 Jan 2019 18:06:20 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,843977#msg-843977 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,843977#msg-843977
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sinnedwrong
I see from the M208 G-code wiki that the example for minima is M208 X-5 Y0..... (i.e with a minus sign) and also that "The axis limits you set are also the positions assumed when an endstop is triggered."

Am I correct in assuming that this means that in the example when zeroing X the position for logical X0 is trigger point minus 5mm and all references to X in the gcode would relate to the logical X0 position ( i.e trigger minus 5).

I'm having difficulty parsing what you are saying. I'm tired, so it's probably me and I'll explain it how I see it in my befuddled state :)

With M208, adjust the values to make X=0 and Y=0 the edge of the bed. e.g. if your Y endstop is triggered but you have to increase Y by 15 to bring it onto the bed then set Y-15 will make it so Y=0 when it gets to the edge of the bed.

My Ormerod is offline at the moment, but IIRC with the Treito mount while your X will equal 11 when homed, if you set X11 then at X11 you can't move the head any further back as it is the minima. However there is still room for the head to move back without hitting the threaded rod.

I'm not sure the best way to do it but I think I left M208 as X0, then popped something like "G92 X7" into my homex.g and homeall.g as a bodge,so it can move back as far as possible and X0 is as close to the edge as it can be without hitting the rod :)]]> cheeseandham Ormerod Tue, 08 Jan 2019 16:59:24 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,843950#msg-843950 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,843950#msg-843950
The config file of my original Ormerod as supplied by RepRapPRO does not include M208 and after zeroing X,Y the print head is 9.5mm from the edge of the glass bed in the X direction and 2.3 in the Y.

My new Ormerod (with DC42's probe and the Treito mount) zeroes at X=11, Y=2mm from the corner of the glass bed.

I see from the M208 G-code wiki that the example for minima is M208 X-5 Y0..... (i.e with a minus sign) and also that "The axis limits you set are also the positions assumed when an endstop is triggered."

Am I correct in assuming that this means that in the example when zeroing X the position for logical X0 is trigger point minus 5mm and all references to X in the gcode would relate to the logical X0 position ( i.e trigger minus 5).

A second confusion then is what M204 does, but as none of the examples of config.g I've found on the web use M204 so perhaps I should ignore it]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Tue, 08 Jan 2019 13:14:34 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,840476#msg-840476 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,840476#msg-840476
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sinnedwrong
Slowly getting to understand the differences between a standard Ormerod " running RepRapPro's original firmware and the latest DC42 version. Regarding the Z probe (DC42s mounted on Treito's mount) I find that I need to change homez.g, homeall.g and bed.g from an X value of 15 to one of 40 in order for the sensor to be over the bed. Does that sound right and are there any other files I need to explore? Also do I ned to adjust M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 to something with a different X value to allow for the displacement between the sensor pad edge and the edge of the bed?

I note the homex.g from my original Ormerod had :
G1 X15 F2000 ; ADJUST the X value to put the nozzle on the edge of the bed
G92 X0 ; set position to X=0

As regards my earlier post while the sensor board stops about 4mm from the sensor pad looking at the circuit because the phototransistor is proud of the board it triggers exactly whne that is above the sensor. My stupidity!

Dennis

You have to check the distance from your X limit to the edge of your bed. aka, the Zero point.
Then you have to change the xlimit to -15 (Your offset from zero point to the x limit) like so

; Axis Limits
M208 X-15 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X195 Y205 Z185 S0 ; Set axis maxima
(Here my X maximum is set to 195 since I dont want it to pass past a certain point.) If you hear your limits sliping the belt whengoing to max Y thenreduce the Max limit vaue of your Y to say Y200

This was something I had trouble with.

Move your print head using the controls to where you want your probe points and change that in your homez.g and also your bed.g files]]> Karoo Klong Ormerod Wed, 05 Dec 2018 12:06:11 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,840462#msg-840462 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,840462#msg-840462
I note the homex.g from my original Ormerod had :
G1 X15 F2000 ; ADJUST the X value to put the nozzle on the edge of the bed
G92 X0 ; set position to X=0

As regards my earlier post while the sensor board stops about 4mm from the sensor pad looking at the circuit because the phototransistor is proud of the board it triggers exactly whne that is above the sensor. My stupidity!

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Wed, 05 Dec 2018 10:48:20 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839908#msg-839908 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839908#msg-839908
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sinnedwrong
DC42: For info the URL on [escher3d.com] in the section Modification of the sensor is at your own risk. You can find the schematic here and the... is coming up for me as a 404. To be clear I'm not interested in going into competition or modification. I just wanted to look up the specs of the LED's and the sensor to satisfy my curiousity of the beam angles.

Thanks for pointing that out. I have corrected the links. In the current version of the differential IR sensor, the IR LEDs are SFH4045N and the phototransistor is SFH3015FA.]]> dc42 Ormerod Wed, 28 Nov 2018 14:16:07 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839881#msg-839881 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839881#msg-839881
DC42: For info the URL on [escher3d.com] in the section Modification of the sensor is at your own risk. You can find the schematic here and the... is coming up for me as a 404. To be clear I'm not interested in going into competition or modification. I just wanted to look up the specs of the LED's and the sensor to satisfy my curiousity of the beam angles.

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Wed, 28 Nov 2018 09:37:46 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839853#msg-839853 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839853#msg-839853
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dc42
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Karoo Klong
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cheeseandham
You want to "Allocate fans to tools" in your config.g or in your slic3r g-code section , then whenever tool 0 is selected, sending M106 Snnn will control the fan you want.

How many controlable 12v pins are there on the Duet board?
or is it only the one fan out pin next to the sd card slot?

Duet 0.6: 3 (2 heater + 1 fan outputs)
Duet 0.8.5: 5 (3 heater + 2 fan outputs)
Duet WiFi/Ethernet/Maestro: 6 (3 heater + 3 fan outputs)

Thank you David
I take it the two heaters would be the print head thermistor and the other the heated bed?
I was thinking of being able to control the led strip.
It does not seem to influence the z probe so I suppose I could just leave it that way.
I still need the cooling fan outlet as that is my next upgrade. Partcooling fan for printing PLA]]> Karoo Klong Ormerod Wed, 28 Nov 2018 05:26:19 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839812#msg-839812 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839812#msg-839812
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Karoo Klong
Quote
cheeseandham
You want to "Allocate fans to tools" in your config.g or in your slic3r g-code section , then whenever tool 0 is selected, sending M106 Snnn will control the fan you want.

How many controlable 12v pins are there on the Duet board?
or is it only the one fan out pin next to the sd card slot?

Duet 0.6: 3 (2 heater + 1 fan outputs)
Duet 0.8.5: 5 (3 heater + 2 fan outputs)
Duet WiFi/Ethernet/Maestro: 6 (3 heater + 3 fan outputs)]]> dc42 Ormerod Tue, 27 Nov 2018 18:43:20 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839762#msg-839762 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839762#msg-839762
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cheeseandham
You want to "Allocate fans to tools" in your config.g or in your slic3r g-code section , then whenever tool 0 is selected, sending M106 Snnn will control the fan you want.

How many controlable 12v pins are there on the Duet board?
or is it only the one fan out pin next to the sd card slot?]]> Karoo Klong Ormerod Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:10:31 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839755#msg-839755 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839755#msg-839755
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sinnedwrong
If so it then raises another question. On my original Ormerod my slicer Slic3r V1.2.9 as per the orinal reprappro config file turns the cooling fan on after 3 layers with the command M106 S255. I see the firmware defaults to fan0 if the fan isn't specified in the M106 code but if I wanted to use a different fan how would I get e.g M106 P1 S255 into the slic3r output?

You want to "Allocate fans to tools" in your config.g or in your slic3r g-code section , then whenever tool 0 is selected, sending M106 Snnn will control the fan you want.]]> cheeseandham Ormerod Tue, 27 Nov 2018 04:47:00 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839754#msg-839754 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839754#msg-839754 www.thingiverse.com]

"Derived from Treito's design, this is my version.

I changed the design as this prevents the IR PCB from colliding directly with the Z Leadscrew, as this could cause a short/damage."


]]> cheeseandham Ormerod Tue, 27 Nov 2018 04:34:36 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839702#msg-839702 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839702#msg-839702
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The config tool produces the code:
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off

which I assuming is the cooling not the hot end fan so I propose to connect the hot end fan to the permanently on and the cooling fan to Fan 0. Does that sound OK?

That's OK, however as you are using a Duet Maestro you can alternatively connect the hot end heatsink fan to the Fan1 output, then you can control it thermostatically so that it turns off when the hot end is cool enough. That's how I have my Ormerod set up.]]> dc42 Ormerod Mon, 26 Nov 2018 13:54:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839685#msg-839685 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,839685#msg-839685
Latest update:

Mounted electronics on frame and started wiring. Y axis straightforward and axis zero's fine.
Purchased DC42s Z probe and fitted using [www.thingiverse.com] with 2.5mm cap head screws. Had to replace the 3 pin stright header with 90 degree header as the original fouled the Z axis thread. X axis then zero's fine although out of interest the axis stops 3-4 mm short of the sensor pad. I suspect the IR detector has a fairly wide beam angle.

Wiring still to be tided up but I have a question regarding the fans. I'm cheating by looking in minute detail at the picture in [www.thingiverse.com] which is DC42's Maestro enclosure. As far as I can see he has a fan attahched to fan 1 and nothing attached to the permanently on fan.

The config tool produces the code:
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off

which I assuming is the cooling not the hot end fan so I propose to connect the hot end fan to the permanently on and the cooling fan to Fan 0. Does that sound OK?

If so it then raises another question. On my original Ormerod my slicer Slic3r V1.2.9 as per the orinal reprappro config file turns the cooling fan on after 3 layers with the command M106 S255. I see the firmware defaults to fan0 if the fan isn't specified in the M106 code but if I wanted to use a different fan how would I get e.g M106 P1 S255 into the slic3r output?

[attachment 108299 DSC_1640.JPG]]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Mon, 26 Nov 2018 10:48:17 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838907#msg-838907 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838907#msg-838907
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sinnedwrong
Sorry! For a PhD scientist that was very sloppy, by size of wire I meant diameter (I don't care if its AWG or fractions of a mm I can convert) My concern is for current carrying capacity and or voltage drop.
I don't know enough about such things personally, but I can tell you what I can.

The supplied motor looms e.g. [emaker.io] and [reprapltd.com] have very thin wires. I measure 1mm in diameter with my digital calipers including the plastic sheath.

For the hotend these wires were simply "doubled up" by reprappro, I assume due to the higher current demand.]]> cheeseandham Ormerod Sun, 18 Nov 2018 16:23:26 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838863#msg-838863 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838863#msg-838863
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sinnedwrong
what specification of glass (other than flat) is required. Soda glass, borosilicate or ??

Ordinary 3mm float glass from your local glass and glazing supplier. Ask him to cut it to size and smooth off the sharp edges so that it is safe to handle.]]> dc42 Ormerod Sun, 18 Nov 2018 10:44:02 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838854#msg-838854 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838854#msg-838854
As regards the print bed yes it will be like the original Ormerod a glass plate on top of the aluminium heat spreader. Reading [escher3d.com] I see that the issue of reflections from top/ bottom / aluminium surface is an issue to address, after I have sourced a piece of glass which raises another question: what specification of glass (other than flat) is required. Soda glass, borosilicate or ??

Thanks for the prompt reply

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Sun, 18 Nov 2018 08:58:49 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838850#msg-838850 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838850#msg-838850
i) size cable - can you clarify? do you mean length or something else?
ii) a white axis x-stop is fine, I have one with a dc42 probe. (Regarding the aluminium print bed, are you not having some kind a print surface?)
iii) no, I don't :)]]> cheeseandham Ormerod Sun, 18 Nov 2018 08:35:12 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838844#msg-838844 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,838844#msg-838844
Long time since last update, not all of which I can blame on waiting for the Duet Maestro to be available, however assuming the attached image works you can see I have now completed the electronics section of the build. I cut the aluminium mount using my homebuilt MPCNC router with a 1/8" carbide single flute bit, Estlcam CAM software and a trochoidal cut. The Maestro enclosure is from [www.thingiverse.com].

After mounting the electronics on the frame the wiring is next and I have some questions for the experts:

1 What size of cable should I use for wiring the motors and the Quickset hot end?
2 I have a spare original reprappro Z probe but if I decide to use DC42s better probe does this still work with a white label for the x axis end stop or would I need to paint the end stop black similar to the website advice for the aluminium print bed
3 Long shot but does anybody know of a published design for a lid for the maestro enclosure. I know I can knock one up in Openscad but I was just wondering.

Updates to follow, hopefully without such a long interval

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Sun, 18 Nov 2018 07:40:19 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,792478#msg-792478 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,792478#msg-792478
1 I assembled the heated bed, cutting out the MDF using several passes of my 2.8W laser but encountered all of the usual problems when trying to cut out the aluminium heat spreader using a CNC router. Melted chips, loss of registration, destruction of the bit etc. So eventually went back to the old fashioned way and used a pad saw. When attempting to solder the SMD resistor to the heated bed the pad came loose. As I manage on my original Ormerod without LEDs to tell me if its active I didn't pursue trying to repair the bed and will manage without. My stock of 35mm cap head M3 screws are only partially threaded so I used a 35mm hex headed bolt instead for the bed mounting screw at the front of the machine.

2 Assembled the extruder with no problems

3 Have now sourced all of the components for the "Quickset" hot end so that's the next task.

4 Have sourced all of the connectors and 2 (Engineer PA-09 and PA-21) generic crimp tools (one can never have too many crimp tools)! So after the hot end the next stage will be to assemble the wiring looms. However I have still to decide how to mount the duet which will determine the length of the looms. I like the idea of using the Meanwell power supply to brace the Z axis however I'm struggling at the moment to see how the mount a "printed" duet case onto the power supply. After my experience with the aluminium for the heated bed I don't fancy trying to reproduce the original mounts.

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Mon, 16 Oct 2017 10:19:57 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,792317#msg-792317 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,792317#msg-792317 Treito Ormerod Sun, 15 Oct 2017 03:09:48 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,791585#msg-791585 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,791585#msg-791585
I'm making my second Ormerod 2 at the moment as way of upgrading my existing one without dismantling my fairly original 528.4 work-horse (although I changed the extruder on the original last night as it's a simple update as I've been getting itchy to try out the new build).
I ended up with all the parts for a second Ormerod 2 last December when I bought a lot on eBay when I was just after the parts for a dual extruder and ended up with almost all the parts minus a few cheap minor parts such as a bowden end and hobbed nut) (original post is here)

I've made very little time for it this year until this last month. So now I've picked it up again and have been working gently on it (half hour here, an hour there). I am currently waiting on MDF insulator from Reprap Ltd (I thought I had it, but realised when it came to fitting that it wasn't a Quickset MDF insulator) so I figured I could make time for a post. I'm hoping to be finished in the next couple of weeks if I can.

[attachment 98676 IMG_20171008_221705.jpg]

I have, or plan to have, on this build
528.5 and additional/replacement parts
(any other suggestions by the more seasoned Ormerod 2 owners here would be most welcome!)

I've considered the Spring-loaded extruder but I've never really had any issues with my extruder, so I think I'll leave that for the next build (i.e. rebuilding my current working 528.4 when completely happy with this one)
I did briefly consider getting all the printed parts professionally printed via SLS in nylon for that "it's just pucka" feel, but that's just silly :D
This week I'm now torn between transplanting my existing Duet (I really only need one printer :) ) or buying a nice shiny Duet Wifi and having two working Ormerod 2's. :D]]> cheeseandham Ormerod Sun, 08 Oct 2017 18:05:03 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,786219#msg-786219 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,786219#msg-786219
Depending on where you get the stepper motors from, they may have wires coming out of them, or JST connectors.]]> dc42 Ormerod Sun, 03 Sep 2017 07:08:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,786114#msg-786114 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,786114#msg-786114
OK so using IE11 the attach file, create link in message didn't work. Trying with firefox!]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Sat, 02 Sep 2017 10:27:20 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,786102#msg-786102 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,786102#msg-786102
After that it will be time for decisions:

1 Use Duet 0.6 as per original or one of the newer Duets. If the latter do I go for Wi-Fi (and in suburban west London, there are according to insider 4, at least 15 other Wi-Fi users local to me on the Wi-Fi channel I am using) or stay with cabled Ethernet? As far as I can see the major advantage to the later Duets is the much easier option to add a second extruder should I want to. Still have to work out how to mount the Duet. I see printed designs on Thingiverse and I'm hoping (assuming?) that all duets have the same profile and fixing points so the designs are interchangeable.

2 Do I cheat and purchase wiring looms or assemble my own. My understanding is the plugs for the steppers are JST-PH and connections to the Duets are Molex KK although Ian from RepRapPro in 2015 listed connectors and at that time was recommending Toby 1800-T connectors. I have been very impressed with Toby for other supplies. Cables would be 26AWG inside Shrinktek expandable sleeving, I'm not bothered about EMI proofing this build.

I would be interested in any thoughts people might have on these points.

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Sat, 02 Sep 2017 09:09:54 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,784295#msg-784295 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,784295#msg-784295
to make a picture appear in post:
"Attach a file"
"Choose File"
"Attach"
"create link in message"

Work for me with Firefox, Opera, Brave etc.

[attachment 97378 DSC_1555.jpg]

Erik]]> ormerod168 Ormerod Sun, 20 Aug 2017 16:09:13 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,784235#msg-784235 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,784235#msg-784235
As 125 people have viewed my earlier posting I thought I would update the board on progress to date. I have attached a photo of the build to date and to answer the specific question in my earlier post a 2.8W 445nm laser mounted on an MPCNC device successfully cut 5mm thick Perspex at 1mm/" speed with a Z drop of 1mm. This took about 30minutes for each Y axis end plate and I am now making the Perspex mounts for the Mean Well power supply. I have posted an update on the posting that DMOULD highlighted with an attachment
shows the different end plate design that RepRapPro published for their different version numbers. I am trying the 528.5 version that have 2 lugs that locate into the aluminium extrusion. Time will tell if that prevents the Y axis twist!

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Sun, 20 Aug 2017 07:30:25 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,782209#msg-782209 Re: Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,782209#msg-782209
Dave

[Edit] By coincidence there is a thread on that very issue here [forums.reprap.org]]]> dmould Ormerod Mon, 07 Aug 2017 08:40:14 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,782083#msg-782083 Building an Ormerod 2 from scratch https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?340,782083,782083#msg-782083
My questions relate to the acrylic Y-axis end plates A & B, which I assume are mirror imaged versions of the same DXF, to get the slight taper for the 12mm rod to be from the alternative sides

1 Does anybody supply these items, possibly in aluminium? I'm aware that the Duet/power supply assembly also require acrylic pieces and that this assembly braces the Z axis. Problem for another day.

2 I have found the DXF files which I think are for (? some ) of the acrylic and MDF pieces in GitHub [github.com]. I have an MPCNC 2.8w laser machine that I have built. Anyone got ideas of what power laser is needed to cut acrylic. I suspect 2.8W will be too small.


I'm aware there are other alternative design around for these pieces, which are meant to stop the Y axis twisting issue but at this point I thought I would start with the original.

Thanks in advance

Dennis

Dennis]]> sinnedwrong Ormerod Sun, 06 Aug 2017 13:18:00 -0400