Verteez Smartrap build Hi all, Finally, I have decided to build my first printer, and I have chosen the Smartrap. At the start, I want to say sorry for my English. Im not using it very often, so I will probably make some mistakes. As my goal, it was to build this little piece of art as much cheap as I can. In my opinion, I was close to that and everything closed in range of 250 USD. I should mention that I live in Poland, so the prices for me are a bit diffrent after currency conversion. Annyway, its still good price. The parts were picked moustly in my country, because of the price. Only the printed parts, ramps and hotend came from abroad. Everything is exactly like in the BOM that can be found on github. The only diffrence is the power supply, because im planing to add a MK2a heated bed (it's just been shiped to me) so i used a 18amp PC power supply. I still havent received my J-head, so I can't start printing. It make me sad that in May I won't have much time for this, because of my maturity exams after ending the high school. Well, will see how it's going to be. The building was nice, and easy. The only problem I got was with the tight ABS parts from MakerCoast. I had to file off a bit the holes for rods. And the X axis bearings were falling off their place, so i made them stiff in MacGyver way. I used some cardboard to hold them tight, so far, so good :D Printing with Repetier Host, Cura, or from SD card works well. For now, I have two problems that I can't handle: -First is the problem with auto homing(used from lcd menu). After auto home (check only one point on the bed, and I dont't know why), the head starts the print too low. Happily, i still dont have the hotend, so nothing hitted the glass. And I don't know what to do. Should I make the Z endstop arm longer, or change something in the software? - The second one is with the auto bed leveling. I just can't figure out how to turn it on. Anny help? Auto homing try only one point on the bed(used from the lcd display) , and if using Cura, the leveling bed wizard only move the head and use the servo only once. But nothing looks like the bed leveling from youtube videos. I hope that someone can help me with this, or I will somehow menage to do it propetly. Photos of the printer are on Thingiverse. Sorry for this, but they are too big to post here, and I can't change them. HERE --> [url=http://www.thingiverse.com/make:73066]Photos of Verteez printer[/url] and link to wideo with auto homing is here --> [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biuU8WbOl_w] auto homing[/url] I will post more soon. :) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,342096#msg-342096 Wed, 13 May 2026 03:10:01 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,416086#msg-416086 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,416086#msg-416086 Right now I have moved to manually bed leveling using the 4 screws on my MC3 base design. But I just like the autobed leveling feature..
Everything is working, but I have noticed yesterday extruder skipping problem. The hotend is not clogged, not leaking(finally) but the extruder gear is skipping and the prints are comming out week, or not finished. Changing the steps is not helping, and I can't make the current higer, because the motor will get too hot. Im thinking about printing your geared extruder to fix this.
..I have some ninjaflex as a gift. I want to try it then :D
Quote
regpye
Quote
verteez
I have small problem with my marlin again..
Every time I run g29 command I got diffrent Z offset read :/ But my bed is for sure always in the same position, and nothing is changing the nozzle position.

What can cause this?

here are last 4 probes 
22:00:14.143 : 
22:00:14.143 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:00:14.143 : 1.00 0.00 0.00
22:00:14.147 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:00:14.147 : -0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:00:18.533 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.61
22:01:58.593 : Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.74
22:01:58.594 : planeNormal x: -0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:01:58.594 : 
22:01:58.598 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:01:58.598 : 1.00 0.00 0.00
22:01:58.598 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:01:58.598 : -0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:02:03.001 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.58
22:03:58.461 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.76
22:03:58.462 : planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:03:58.462 : 
22:03:58.465 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:03:58.465 : 1.00 0.00 -0.00
22:03:58.466 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:03:58.466 : 0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:04:02.844 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.76
22:06:23.937 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.73
22:06:23.937 : planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:06:23.941 : 
22:06:23.941 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:06:23.941 : 1.00 0.00 -0.00
22:06:23.941 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:06:23.944 : 0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:06:28.348 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.64

I have been using RegPye Marlin version with Roxy's enchanced probing, and normal Marlin from Smartfriendz github. I was using it with EEprom turned on, and disabled. The result is always the same- floating offset.
Today I have been using grid method, because the 3 point also was giving me diffrent results. Also I couldn't compile RegPye marlin with 3 point probe.

Anny ideas?

I am now using a different version again, it is a mix of the earlier version and some later additions.
I use it in 3 point mode because that is all I every found necessary.
I made a small change to the pins.h file, nothing really important, but I had a RAMPS board that didn't work on the heated bed thermistor (fault with that particular board) so I changed the bed thermistor to be in the second hotend thermistor place instead to get this board working. I never changed it back again for the next boards I used as I found that the position for plugging in the heated bed thermistor was easier for me in the new place.

As I use this same version of Marlin for all my machines, not just SmartRaps, I have the servo section of the RAMPS board used as that is already setup and works wonderfully as standard.

If you want a copy of the Marlin I am using now, let me know and I will post it.
]]> verteez Smart_Rap Mon, 06 Oct 2014 09:18:26 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,415920#msg-415920 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,415920#msg-415920
Quote
verteez
I have small problem with my marlin again..
Every time I run g29 command I got diffrent Z offset read :/ But my bed is for sure always in the same position, and nothing is changing the nozzle position.

What can cause this?

here are last 4 probes 
22:00:14.143 : 
22:00:14.143 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:00:14.143 : 1.00 0.00 0.00
22:00:14.147 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:00:14.147 : -0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:00:18.533 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.61
22:01:58.593 : Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.74
22:01:58.594 : planeNormal x: -0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:01:58.594 : 
22:01:58.598 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:01:58.598 : 1.00 0.00 0.00
22:01:58.598 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:01:58.598 : -0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:02:03.001 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.58
22:03:58.461 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.76
22:03:58.462 : planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:03:58.462 : 
22:03:58.465 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:03:58.465 : 1.00 0.00 -0.00
22:03:58.466 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:03:58.466 : 0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:04:02.844 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.76
22:06:23.937 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.73
22:06:23.937 : planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:06:23.941 : 
22:06:23.941 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:06:23.941 : 1.00 0.00 -0.00
22:06:23.941 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:06:23.944 : 0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:06:28.348 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.64

I have been using RegPye Marlin version with Roxy's enchanced probing, and normal Marlin from Smartfriendz github. I was using it with EEprom turned on, and disabled. The result is always the same- floating offset.
Today I have been using grid method, because the 3 point also was giving me diffrent results. Also I couldn't compile RegPye marlin with 3 point probe.

Anny ideas?

I am now using a different version again, it is a mix of the earlier version and some later additions.
I use it in 3 point mode because that is all I every found necessary.
I made a small change to the pins.h file, nothing really important, but I had a RAMPS board that didn't work on the heated bed thermistor (fault with that particular board) so I changed the bed thermistor to be in the second hotend thermistor place instead to get this board working. I never changed it back again for the next boards I used as I found that the position for plugging in the heated bed thermistor was easier for me in the new place.

As I use this same version of Marlin for all my machines, not just SmartRaps, I have the servo section of the RAMPS board used as that is already setup and works wonderfully as standard.

If you want a copy of the Marlin I am using now, let me know and I will post it.]]> regpye Smart_Rap Sun, 05 Oct 2014 19:11:52 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,415912#msg-415912 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,415912#msg-415912
My first guess is: is there perhaps more 'play' or 'friction' in the smartrap that is growing over time? And now grown enough to produce misreadings/ misbehave just enough to start messing with your mind?

Just a wild guess, I can't see you machine from here . :-)

I'll give it some more thought and if i can thing of another reason then i'll share my thoughts again.]]> BackEMF Smart_Rap Sun, 05 Oct 2014 18:52:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,414326#msg-414326 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,414326#msg-414326 Every time I run g29 command I got diffrent Z offset read :/ But my bed is for sure always in the same position, and nothing is changing the nozzle position.

What can cause this?

here are last 4 probes 
22:00:14.143 : 
22:00:14.143 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:00:14.143 : 1.00 0.00 0.00
22:00:14.147 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:00:14.147 : -0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:00:18.533 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.61
22:01:58.593 : Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.74
22:01:58.594 : planeNormal x: -0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:01:58.594 : 
22:01:58.598 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:01:58.598 : 1.00 0.00 0.00
22:01:58.598 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:01:58.598 : -0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:02:03.001 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.58
22:03:58.461 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.76
22:03:58.462 : planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:03:58.462 : 
22:03:58.465 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:03:58.465 : 1.00 0.00 -0.00
22:03:58.466 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:03:58.466 : 0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:04:02.844 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.76
22:06:23.937 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.01 d: 3.73
22:06:23.937 : planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.01 z: 1.00
22:06:23.941 : 
22:06:23.941 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
22:06:23.941 : 1.00 0.00 -0.00
22:06:23.941 : 0.00 1.00 0.01
22:06:23.944 : 0.00 -0.01 1.00
22:06:28.348 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-0.64

I have been using RegPye Marlin version with Roxy's enchanced probing, and normal Marlin from Smartfriendz github. I was using it with EEprom turned on, and disabled. The result is always the same- floating offset.
Today I have been using grid method, because the 3 point also was giving me diffrent results. Also I couldn't compile RegPye marlin with 3 point probe.

Anny ideas?]]> verteez Smart_Rap Wed, 01 Oct 2014 16:16:53 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,411660#msg-411660 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,411660#msg-411660
In the next build i guess? :-D]]> BackEMF Smart_Rap Wed, 24 Sep 2014 23:19:17 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,411347#msg-411347 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,411347#msg-411347
But where should I add this thing? :D

Quote
BackEMF
Very nice remix Verteez!

Congrats.

What about adding something like this?

https://sites.google.com/site/3dprinterlist/home/mechanics/simple-anti-backlash-system

Not that backlash is a problem, but i like the simplicity of that antibacklash system hehehe
]]> verteez Smart_Rap Wed, 24 Sep 2014 05:30:58 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,411273#msg-411273 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,411273#msg-411273
Congrats.

What about adding something like this?

https://sites.google.com/site/3dprinterlist/home/mechanics/simple-anti-backlash-system

Not that backlash is a problem, but i like the simplicity of that antibacklash system hehehe]]> BackEMF Smart_Rap Tue, 23 Sep 2014 23:49:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,410178#msg-410178 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,410178#msg-410178
Quote
verteez
Now I know that its a tricki one :)

Yes, im using the fan for genie hotend, and the fan for the nozzle. But I havent printed yet Your duct.
Right now Im using Cura 14.07 for some time, and I just love it. It just was giving me the better results than RH with less effort.
Yes, right now retracion is like this: Speed 45mm/s, distance 5mm, and in the expert settings nothing changed.

I was printing Maori with 0.14mm layer height, 0.3mm nozzle, temp 204C, shell thickness 0.6, bottom/top thickness 0.6, initial layer thickness 0.2, infil 25%, speed 40mm/s

Quote
regpye
The Maori is a tricky one to print and is very good for testing.
Are you using a fan?
What software did you use for slicing?
Are you using retract?

The settings sound about right and using Cura is good, I love it too.
Try going into Advanced settings and lower the speed of the outer shell speed a lot.
Black is usually the worst colour to print with, depending on the supplier. I have some black that I can hardly use due to it breaking, hard to get a good finish and also temperature changes needed within the spool. I think this batch of black was made from rubbish material and I wont buy from this supplier again.
Try printing the same model in white and see if there is a difference for you.]]> regpye Smart_Rap Sun, 21 Sep 2014 19:26:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,410090#msg-410090 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,410090#msg-410090
Yes, im using the fan for genie hotend, and the fan for the nozzle. But I havent printed yet Your duct.
Right now Im using Cura 14.07 for some time, and I just love it. It just was giving me the better results than RH with less effort.
Yes, right now retracion is like this: Speed 45mm/s, distance 5mm, and in the expert settings nothing changed.

I was printing Maori with 0.14mm layer height, 0.3mm nozzle, temp 204C, shell thickness 0.6, bottom/top thickness 0.6, initial layer thickness 0.2, infil 25%, speed 40mm/s

Quote
regpye
The Maori is a tricky one to print and is very good for testing.
Are you using a fan?
What software did you use for slicing?
Are you using retract?
]]> verteez Smart_Rap Sun, 21 Sep 2014 15:18:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,410075#msg-410075 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,410075#msg-410075 Are you using a fan?
What software did you use for slicing?
Are you using retract?]]> regpye Smart_Rap Sun, 21 Sep 2014 14:18:18 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,409971#msg-409971 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,409971#msg-409971 I wanted to post this two days ago, but my cousin was getting maried, so I wasn't able to use forum :)-D

I have stabilised my Z rods using wood plate connected with two M8 rods to the base plate. Thanks to this my Z axis and X are now stable and not wobbling. Also the whole printer is now more rigid and stay in place on the desk :) I should use a bit bigger piece of wood for the base, but I have found only this one in my beasement.
When I will change the bed to a bigger one, then I will probably also change the wood.

My X and Y axis are still the same as before, because I still dont have the new glass and the longer belts for my X axis. Around next week they should arrive.

Whats nice is that I can say that my Smartrap is now almost fully reliable printer, and the woluime of print output is really big! ^^ My max print height is 27cm tall. The rest will be measured after assembling.
Im only a bit worried about the X axis. Do you guys think that after changing the rods for so long, the hotend wont go too low because of it weight, while the head will be moved toward front?

Im also thinking about doing my hotend wires longer, that I could mount them on the top wood piece, and then wire to the threated rod and the ramps. That they will be going to the printing head from the top, not the back side. It would help me to get a better bed probing and prints.

And when I talk about my prints, I mus say they are getting pretty nice :) See the pics below.
The only problem is sometimes with the layers when the nozzle is going up doing bigger piece, and started from small spot. Then the nozzle is moving to much, and the layers are getting ugly.
Am I right that this problem is because of too big steps? Because my motor drivers power is callibrated propetly. (see the Moai statue print)

Some pics :)

Whole printer


Printing first vase (10cm height)



Came out pretty nice



The second one, much better and bit bigger



Minecraft creeper for a friend



And the Moai, look at the ears, nose and the chin. Anny idea?


Everything was printed using the 0.3mm nozzle. Now Im going to print with 0.5mm some larger parts and for saving the time.

Kamil.
]]> verteez Smart_Rap Sun, 21 Sep 2014 08:42:27 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,409337#msg-409337 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,409337#msg-409337
Quote
verteez

Also, RegPye, can you tell my how to get ride of lifting corners? I was trying to print pinion for the smartrap, but it was getting ugly. I was trying from 0.14mm to 0.18mm layer height, because now I was playing a bit with the 0.3mm nozzle from you, temp 185, 200, 202, 205, 210C and every time the overal print is good, but the back of the pinion(while watching at the front of the printer) has the corners lifted up, ugly and messed :(
I can't print it right. Now it's to dark to post a photo, I will add it around morning.
[/quote][/quote]

Hi Verteez,
On the bare cold glass printing PLA I use a cheap gluestick branded with the name Sorbo from Dirx drogist (Netherlands), 2 of them cost 3 Euro.
It only works on days that the temp is below 22 degrees Celcius or the glue gets soft and doesn't work any more. This is rare in the Netherlands.
Maybe you could try one.
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Fri, 19 Sep 2014 09:18:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408753#msg-408753 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408753#msg-408753 It is in two parts, one to mount the fan and the other to direct the air flow.
The fan mount will attach to the 30mm fan housing for the Genie hotend, you should position it where it fits best and super glue it in place.
The air flow director is angled and reduced at the end to concentrate the air pressure.

Hope you can use these.

Complete two parts together

Air flow directer

Fan base mount]]> regpye Smart_Rap Thu, 18 Sep 2014 00:38:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408734#msg-408734 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408734#msg-408734 Mix a little sugar with some hot water so that it is a thick syrup and rub over the glass plate, heat it up to temp until the sugar has dried and then make your print.
You don't need much sugar, and you can use it over and over again.

I have an idea for the 40mm fan and will work on that for you during the day.I am still off work, so I can find a bit of time.

The leak was caused through the threaded section having moved upwards? You did what I told you to fix it?



Quote
verteez
I was planing to cut some wood strip and use it to hold together the rods and connect it with base using M8 rods that I have bought today.
I will do it at the morning, because now it's late night here. I hope that it will work..

My fan is 40mm, I was using it before with my Jhead lite.
I wast thinking about mouting it somewhere around the hotend, or on its arm. The localisation it's not important as long as it will blow some air at tip of the nozzle.
Right now it's attached to the lower hole of your small fan. It' a a good place, but there's not much space for the duct.
I was really thinking about some nice designs that I have seen on thingiverse. They were some kind of rings surrounding the nozzle, but anny working will be a blessing.

Also, RegPye, can you tell my how to get ride of lifting corners? I was trying to print pinion for the smartrap, but it was getting ugly. I was trying from 0.14mm to 0.18mm layer height, because now I was playing a bit with the 0.3mm nozzle from you, temp 185, 200, 202, 205, 210C and every time the overal print is good, but the back of the pinion(while watching at the front of the printer) has the corners lifted up, ugly and messed :(
I can't print it right. Now it's to dark to post a photo, I will add it around morning.

Also, anny Idea how to fix the layers of the prints? I was trying to change my filament flow, the power and steps, but it's still sometimes extrude to less :< Or is it because of the Z axis power, or steps?

Im very happy that I have menaged to get ride of my leveling problems! Im using the 3 point probe method, because it's working, more stable Y axis, and changed the:
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 1 // smartrap: special quantic error mesurement from porte a faux design (see marlin.cpp)

And it's working like a charm ^^
Oh, and the hotend stopped leaking. I have just reasembled it twice, and it has worked :)

Kamil.
Quote
regpye
If you print a top for your Z rods, it will hold them Steadier. If you add a metal bracket, like an aluminium strap top the top bracket, you can tie that bracket to the base plate and stop almost all movement.
If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan?
]]> regpye Smart_Rap Wed, 17 Sep 2014 22:09:47 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408715#msg-408715 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408715#msg-408715 I will do it at the morning, because now it's late night here. I hope that it will work..

My fan is 40mm, I was using it before with my Jhead lite.
I wast thinking about mouting it somewhere around the hotend, or on its arm. The localisation it's not important as long as it will blow some air at tip of the nozzle.
Right now it's attached to the lower hole of your small fan. It' a a good place, but there's not much space for the duct.
I was really thinking about some nice designs that I have seen on thingiverse. They were some kind of rings surrounding the nozzle, but anny working will be a blessing.

Also, RegPye, can you tell my how to get ride of lifting corners? I was trying to print pinion for the smartrap, but it was getting ugly. I was trying from 0.14mm to 0.18mm layer height, because now I was playing a bit with the 0.3mm nozzle from you, temp 185, 200, 202, 205, 210C and every time the overal print is good, but the back of the pinion(while watching at the front of the printer) has the corners lifted up, ugly and messed :(
I can't print it right. Now it's to dark to post a photo, I will add it around morning.

Also, anny Idea how to fix the layers of the prints? I was trying to change my filament flow, the power and steps, but it's still sometimes extrude to less :< Or is it because of the Z axis power, or steps?

Im very happy that I have menaged to get ride of my leveling problems! Im using the 3 point probe method, because it's working, more stable Y axis, and changed the:
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 1 // smartrap: special quantic error mesurement from porte a faux design (see marlin.cpp)

And it's working like a charm ^^
Oh, and the hotend stopped leaking. I have just reasembled it twice, and it has worked :)

Kamil.
Quote
regpye
If you print a top for your Z rods, it will hold them Steadier. If you add a metal bracket, like an aluminium strap top the top bracket, you can tie that bracket to the base plate and stop almost all movement.
If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan?

Quote
verteez
Well, I should post something new :)

I have menaged to upgrade my Y axis and the whole base to Smartrap MC3 remix, and Im pretty happy of it :)
Also I have added second fan for cooling my prints, and it pretty nice idea, but I need some fan duct. But I don't know how to create one.. Eh

Unfortunatelly only one thing is incorrect. My layers are getting some adhesion from time to time, due to bigger height of print. Every time at the same heigt. Whats causing this?
May it be because of not smoothe Z axis movements?

Another pretty nice info is that I have just received my 500mm rods! Yea, it will be a big one :D The print area should be something around 25/25/25cm
If it wont work I will just cut the rods down a bit.

Unfortunatelly I need some help. Now with soo long Z axis rods the whole X axis is wobbling a lot..really lot :< I will post video when it will be uploaded to youtube. Anny idea how to prevent this?

Below some pics.

New printed parts


Assembled :)



Added small light, really good thing (made of old bike light)


Light works greate :)


Just received the rods, let's get bigger!




Anny ideas and objections? :)

To do: fix the layer adhesion, buy new belts, get bigger glass, fix the Z and X wobbling, stabilize the whole printer

Kamil.

]]> verteez Smart_Rap Wed, 17 Sep 2014 20:08:18 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408708#msg-408708 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408708#msg-408708 If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan?

Quote
verteez
Well, I should post something new :)

I have menaged to upgrade my Y axis and the whole base to Smartrap MC3 remix, and Im pretty happy of it :)
Also I have added second fan for cooling my prints, and it pretty nice idea, but I need some fan duct. But I don't know how to create one.. Eh

Unfortunatelly only one thing is incorrect. My layers are getting some adhesion from time to time, due to bigger height of print. Every time at the same heigt. Whats causing this?
May it be because of not smoothe Z axis movements?

Another pretty nice info is that I have just received my 500mm rods! Yea, it will be a big one :D The print area should be something around 25/25/25cm
If it wont work I will just cut the rods down a bit.

Unfortunatelly I need some help. Now with soo long Z axis rods the whole X axis is wobbling a lot..really lot :< I will post video when it will be uploaded to youtube. Anny idea how to prevent this?

Below some pics.

New printed parts


Assembled :)



Added small light, really good thing (made of old bike light)


Light works greate :)


Just received the rods, let's get bigger!




Anny ideas and objections? :)

To do: fix the layer adhesion, buy new belts, get bigger glass, fix the Z and X wobbling, stabilize the whole printer

Kamil.

]]> regpye Smart_Rap Wed, 17 Sep 2014 19:26:59 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408695#msg-408695 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408695#msg-408695 I cant see your pictures Verteez. Please re-upload.
Ah, sorted. The links work.]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Wed, 17 Sep 2014 18:15:55 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408566#msg-408566 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,408566#msg-408566
I have menaged to upgrade my Y axis and the whole base to Smartrap MC3 remix, and Im pretty happy of it :)
Also I have added second fan for cooling my prints, and it pretty nice idea, but I need some fan duct. But I don't know how to create one.. Eh

Unfortunatelly only one thing is incorrect. My layers are getting some adhesion from time to time, due to bigger height of print. Every time at the same heigt. Whats causing this?
May it be because of not smoothe Z axis movements?

Another pretty nice info is that I have just received my 500mm rods! Yea, it will be a big one :D The print area should be something around 25/25/25cm
If it wont work I will just cut the rods down a bit.

Unfortunatelly I need some help. Now with soo long Z axis rods the whole X axis is wobbling a lot..really lot :< I will post video when it will be uploaded to youtube. Anny idea how to prevent this?

Below some pics.

New printed parts


Assembled :)



Added small light, really good thing (made of old bike light)


Light works greate :)


Just received the rods, let's get bigger!




Anny ideas and objections? :)

To do: fix the layer adhesion, buy new belts, get bigger glass, fix the Z and X wobbling, stabilize the whole printer

Kamil.
]]> verteez Smart_Rap Wed, 17 Sep 2014 12:03:50 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,372671#msg-372671 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,372671#msg-372671 wmtdanimal Smart_Rap Sat, 21 Jun 2014 00:05:53 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,369716#msg-369716 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,369716#msg-369716 I have soo many things to write about, but I just don't have time, and can't now..I will try to post everything nice and well writed this evening, or next day.

For now I present to you timelapse of printig Yoda from thingiverse. Overal it came out really good. I will add some details and photos also leater.
Here is the video. I hope you will like it :)

Kamil.]]> verteez Smart_Rap Sat, 14 Jun 2014 07:22:55 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366557#msg-366557 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366557#msg-366557 BackEMF Smart_Rap Sat, 07 Jun 2014 13:05:38 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366448#msg-366448 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366448#msg-366448
Quote
regpye
I am glad that you found only a diode problem with the RAMPS, that is really good news.
Any idea what caused it to go? Maybe a short somewhere?

Im glad too. I still don't know how the extruder motor was fixed, but maybe because of fixing weird looking solder joins on ramps helped :)
Annyway, it's working! Now only do the bed and Im back in printing :D

Well, the diode might burned because of a short caused by my fault..I was adjusting the motor drivers, and my screwdriver(metal one) slipped of the driver and touched something. Maybe it was then, but I was still able to print while connected to pc USB port.

Today Im going to look for some new glass, or HB mount.

Funny things :D
Kamil]]> verteez Smart_Rap Sat, 07 Jun 2014 06:52:41 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366278#msg-366278 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366278#msg-366278 Any idea what caused it to go? Maybe a short somewhere?]]> regpye Smart_Rap Fri, 06 Jun 2014 20:00:27 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366263#msg-366263 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,366263#msg-366263
I was planning to post something new two days ago..but I got parties every night and Im like zombie next morning xD
Now Im pretty alive, so I can post what's new.

I have promissed to post some photos, so here you go.















As you can see on the last two photos, I have left the filament tube alone and free while printing. Now all my wires are iside that white tube that I have took from some old washing machine :) I must admit that it's pretty nice idea.

Also I have fixed my Ramps! I have disconnected them from arduino, checked them with multimeter, changed my burned D1 diode. After all of this I have loaded the test code, and it was alive! (:P)

I have also connected the Heated Bed, but still not screwed it to the Y axis. I dont have annything that's not bending after assembilng to the axis and bed :(
I think that I will try to use tomorrow some wood strips, or just buy aluminium plate.

I can't wait to start testing this RegPye's amazing hotend. After heating it to something about 240C, the middle metal piece was barely hot (touched with finger)
It will be some good fun :)

Kamil.
]]> verteez Smart_Rap Fri, 06 Jun 2014 18:28:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,364979#msg-364979 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,364979#msg-364979
For now the parcel from RegPye has arrived! I will post photos leater, because there's too much of them.

What's so far.
I really like the design of the X axis for the belts. It's just goergous, also the new hotend.
After assembling the parts I have noticed the minimal, about 3mm, wobble of the hot end when I touch it with my hand. I think that it won't interhere to the printing itself. Also, I don't know why, but my Z axis movement is now heavy, and needs more power, even from my hands to move the X axis. Well, it might be because of old Y axis, so the rods may be a milimeter or two tighter then in Repye design.
What's the most noticable change is the lengh of the new hotend. I have lost around 5.5 cm from the maximum build height. For now it's not so terrible, as long as I wont print anny tall things. But I will probably when the printer will be working.
The last thing that I have noticed are the wires. There's few of them, so I think that I will left the bowden cable to be alone and light when printing. I will thing how to left them leater.

And for the end, another bad news. I have woke up today and my bed was cracked.. 0.o I don't know what happend, but now i must find a new glass, or mount somehow the MK2b heated bed.

Kamil]]> verteez Smart_Rap Wed, 04 Jun 2014 08:25:35 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363723#msg-363723 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363723#msg-363723 build (broken stepper driver, arduino regulator, motor twitching, etc.) But a little bit more tinkering saved me some from buying new parts.

When I had problems with my motors and ran out of options, I just uploaded the RAMPS1.4 test code. Just make sure to disconnect fishing lines and z coupling. This test code will spin your motors back and forth. If all of them are working, your board should still be okay. Maybe I got lucky and after this test, I uploaded the firmware again and the problems disappeard.

Hang in there and don't give up! :)]]> MelT Smart_Rap Sun, 01 Jun 2014 19:48:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363661#msg-363661 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363661#msg-363661
Quote
madmike8
Well, I killed the stepper on my extruder. I was experimenting with dropping microsteping down to gain more torque. I thought I had killed the driver, but after I replaced it I realized it was the stepper. So, you've tried moving around the stepper and drivers to confirm both are ok? Are the X,Y,Z steppers working? Have you tried swapping both to a known working axis?

Hi Madmike8,

Yes, I have swaped the steppers, the motors, connected extruder to other axis, used RH and lcd menu. Everything (my motors, steppers, wires) works fine, only the E socket on Ramps seems to be dead somehow..

I will take my multimeter and check the ramps, only using eye I can't see anny damaged or burned trace, or element.
But tomorrow, now im too tired.

Kamil.]]> verteez Smart_Rap Sun, 01 Jun 2014 17:07:03 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363528#msg-363528 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363528#msg-363528 madmike8 Smart_Rap Sun, 01 Jun 2014 12:39:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363484#msg-363484 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363484#msg-363484
Quote
markstephen
If you have been messing around in Marlin, you might want to try loading the default Marlin Firmware and see if it will come back to life.

I'v had some problems of my own this weekend, all surrounding the fact that my current was way to high on my extruder stepper and it was getting way to hot. On the up side, I now have a new adjustable extruder that is working better than ever and my stepper is now running cool again.

Mark

Yes, I have seen your extruder and wanted to print it, but without functional motor I won't make it.
I will try to load the default Marlin, but Im affraid that it wont help. Well, will see what will happend.

My current is just a bit to high, but I will change it with mounting new extruder. I was hoping to print somehow untill the parcel from RegPye with his geared extruder will arrrve, but I was wrong.

If nothing will revive my extruder, then I will think about some soldering, or buying new one.

Kamil.]]> verteez Smart_Rap Sun, 01 Jun 2014 10:44:25 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363475#msg-363475 Re: Verteez Smartrap build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,342096,363475#msg-363475
I'v had some problems of my own this weekend, all surrounding the fact that my current was way to high on my extruder stepper and it was getting way to hot. On the up side, I now have a new adjustable extruder that is working better than ever and my stepper is now running cool again.

Mark]]> markstephen Smart_Rap Sun, 01 Jun 2014 10:30:24 -0400