Smartrap evolution, improvements... Hi everyone. This topic would be the place to post evolutions of the model, hacks and adaptation to other systems ( like the j-head version of no servo system ? ) . I will use it to show how we update and improve ( i hope?) the model for smartfriendz kits. Other topics are in the same folder for builds , problems or any questions about this project :) As i'm in this first post, i just add two pictures ( a little messy , sorry ) i've added in the french forum about integration of rack and pinion for X and Y axis. Also, a new Zcoupler , made for motors with a flat part on he shaft. This one has no screw and is the first part of a no-wobble system ..to come soon i hope :) [img]http://smartfriendz.com/picstemp/smartrap_rp.jpg[/img] [img]http://smartfriendz.com/picstemp/smartrap_rp_zcoupler.JPG[/img] The R&P system is not really better than fishing line or belt, but I find very good for the Smartrap public, which is mostly first time builders. It seems to be more easy to setup than fishing line . It is also more visually appealing ( my opinion only :) . Thank you https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,347964#msg-347964 Tue, 09 Jun 2026 07:46:37 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399393#msg-399393 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399393#msg-399393 I put G29 into the custom code in Slicer just after the G28 thats already there and now its all good. I was using a manual G28, G29 before each print. I popped G29 into the custom G code and now the z is following all the uneven bits. I didn't realise that slicer needed to do the G29 for it to work.
Soooo coool
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Tue, 26 Aug 2014 14:17:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399249#msg-399249 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399249#msg-399249
Quote
ZeAllan
Hi,

I'm not entirely sure about the problem, but I think I've been fighting the very same problem today. It seems that Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X might be the source of this behaviour. As far as I can determine, it tells the firmware how much further down the probing is pushing the outer side of the bed before activating the endstop, because of the the way the bed is better supported on the inner side. If your contruction is more solid than assumed (the default is .5 mm), the far end is not pushed that far down in reality, and therefore the printer thinks it needs to compensate more than it does, and ends up printing too high on that side.

I tried setting Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X to zero and went from having the floating filament to having the first layer just a bit too flat on the bed, while the side closest to the X endstop was the same in both instances. I guess that means tomorrow I'll have to try with a value of .1 to .2 and that'll be it.

/Allan

You got it! It took me a bit to figure it out myself.]]> duranza Smart_Rap Tue, 26 Aug 2014 07:36:59 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399101#msg-399101 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399101#msg-399101
I'm not entirely sure about the problem, but I think I've been fighting the very same problem today. It seems that Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X might be the source of this behaviour. As far as I can determine, it tells the firmware how much further down the probing is pushing the outer side of the bed before activating the endstop, because of the the way the bed is better supported on the inner side. If your contruction is more solid than assumed (the default is .5 mm), the far end is not pushed that far down in reality, and therefore the printer thinks it needs to compensate more than it does, and ends up printing too high on that side.

I tried setting Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X to zero and went from having the floating filament to having the first layer just a bit too flat on the bed, while the side closest to the X endstop was the same in both instances. I guess that means tomorrow I'll have to try with a value of .1 to .2 and that'll be it.

/Allan]]> ZeAllan Smart_Rap Mon, 25 Aug 2014 18:06:44 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399089#msg-399089 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,399089#msg-399089 Is there any good solution to this?
The G29 offset seems to just point out the fact that the bed is uneven and on my Smartrap it does nothing to compensate during the build. My offset is around 1.2 mm at the far point of the bed. According to one of Serge's videos, the machine should follow the angle of the bed while printing.
Sorry for being a pain in the ass noob.
Regards
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Mon, 25 Aug 2014 17:19:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,398101#msg-398101 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,398101#msg-398101 Thanks that helped a lot. I actually needed a minus offset for some reason but I have it printing now.
I do still have an issue with the fact that the bed closer to the machine is a good height but the part further away above the roller bearing is lower. The offset doesn't take into account the angle of the bed. I can only print small items or the ends wont stick due to the bed being lower at the ends of the parts.
Regards
Mike

____________________________
Issue above resolved, i printed an adjustable leg for the bed support. I also think i figured out the 3 point probing. For some reason the ramps board was not recording the data when using the G29 and the M500 commands. I re-flashed the board and it works now.
Very nice design and very accurate first prints.

Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Sat, 23 Aug 2014 04:40:43 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397984#msg-397984 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397984#msg-397984
Quote
mikefiatx19
Still banging my head on a wall here.
EEPROM is enabled in Marlin but the offset is not making any difference to my prints. The head is just dragging through the plastic. As a test I even set the head offset to M555 Z4 as i knew this should be too high, the program just ignores it though.

Hi Mike,

I scratched my head over the z offset for several evenings. I just added a Z offset to everything in slicer, until I found the variable zprobe_zoffset in marlin_main and traced where it was used and set.

After updating the z probe offset you have to store it in EEPROM immediately (M500). If you or the host software read anything from EEPROM (M501) before storing the update, your updated value gets erased. Try this
M501
to reads the current EEPROM configuration. Look for a line such as
M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z-1.80 ZProbe-1.95
That "ZProbe" value is what you need to change. Set it with

M555 Z-1.5 ; or whatever you want the new offset to be.
M500 ; immediately store the new offset

Then try an M501 again and look for a changed ZProbe value. That was the only thing that worked for me.

I hope this helps]]> CellJeffe Smart_Rap Fri, 22 Aug 2014 17:34:28 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397942#msg-397942 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397942#msg-397942
When the nozzle lifts up and starts around two mm from the bed, is that actually where it should go according to your G-code? If I recall correctly, the instructions on the smartfriendz site will cause you to end up with a negative number, but you need to enter a positive one -- or the other way around. Anyway, try the levelling comand manually, and then M114 to see where the printer thinks the head is.

Worst case you might create a temporary workaround by using (EDIT: G, not M) G92 to tell the printer where the head is after levelling until the cause is found.]]> ZeAllan Smart_Rap Fri, 22 Aug 2014 15:53:35 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397911#msg-397911 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397911#msg-397911 EEPROM is enabled in Marlin but the offset is not making any difference to my prints. The head is just dragging through the plastic. As a test I even set the head offset to M555 Z4 as i knew this should be too high, the program just ignores it though.
Serge is not responding to my emails which is nice.
And there is no method to manually adjust the bed at all so I am unable to print at all. Very annoying!
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Fri, 22 Aug 2014 14:26:52 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397594#msg-397594 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397594#msg-397594
Quote
mikefiatx19
HI Guys,
Thanks for the huge amount of support, I will try to reply to everyone now.

RTurnock.
. Then I will look into tuning the pots to get the motors running smoothly.


When you adjust your pots you will need a multimeter that can read in the low voltage range setting.
I have found the best and easiest way to do this is to get a second set of multimeter probes and modify them so that the red positive probe becomes a screw driver that you adjust the pot with, and the black negative probe becomes a flying lead with a pin on the end that can plug into one of the GND sockets of a spare stepper driver socket (all ground pins are connected)
When you adjust the pot you will get a direct reading on the meter, because the screw driver probe will be connected to the centre connection of the pot. It makes life a lot easier doing it this way and you can adjust all the pots without having to mess around with clips and other tools that could cause a short by coming off or just being in the way and not need to change the GND pin as they are all connected]]> regpye Smart_Rap Thu, 21 Aug 2014 18:02:38 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397556#msg-397556 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397556#msg-397556 I have some 'Jane Seymour Wonder Set Hairspray' thats been in the bathroom for years. It works ok for sticking PLA to the glass BTW but i will borrow some pritt stick from work tomorrow :-).
So, I started a first print and i noticed that the auto calibrate nozzle is acting as follows during the print start.

1- nozzle presses on the bed until switch clicks.
2- nozzle lifts up and stops about 2mm from the bed
3- nozzle heats to around 200c
4- once 200c is reached nozzle drops back down too far and presses on the bed
5- nozzle starts to drag around on the bed printing plastic

because the nozzle drops too far after levelling the first few layers are all at bed height, it's only after 10 layers or so that the nozzle lifts up beyond the glass and starts to build upwards. So the first 10 layers just end up being a mess. I think i need to play with the marlin config file to adjust the z switch offset so that the firmware sees home as 2 mm above the click.

I tried to use the triple check levelling g29 in gcode so that Marlin homes 3 times on 3 parts of the bed to calculate the plane.
After the G29 the Zaxis was at 2.01, I then had to move Z upwards to 3.43 before it cleared the bed. The difference was 1.42 so i then used M555 Z1.42 and then M500 to save the settings but it made no difference. I will keep playing with it until it works.

I also thought (i could be wrong) that as the auto levelling nozzle has to move to be able to press the switch, i am losing some stability in the nozzle and the machines accuract may be affected. Does anyone using the no servo auto levelling function have views on this? Is the servo version better?

Well, it's late here so i am done for now.
Regards
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Thu, 21 Aug 2014 16:04:44 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397477#msg-397477 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397477#msg-397477 Thanks for the huge amount of support, I will try to reply to everyone now.

RTurnock.
I have Arduino software on my PC and I have some experience with flashing firmware. Luckily enough the correct Marlin version is already on the board installed by Smartfriendz so thats one problem sorted.
If there is confusion about if heat sinks need to be used then i think i might go with the side of caution and buy and fit them. I have an old CPU heatsink that can be chopped into small pieces to fit the pololus. Then I will look into tuning the pots to get the motors running smothly.
I will get a gluestick and give it a go.

Regpye.
It's a cold bed, no heated bed yet. So i will try a bit of PVA after the gluestick to see what works best.
I agree about using heatsinks just in case it goes bad.
I will look into Marlin and see what thats about.
Serge is busy at the moment drafting documentation to send to the guys who got the new J-head lite. There is no documentation yet. I feel like I am spamming him because DHL lost my package for a week and i had to email him loads of times already about where the package was. As a side note, the J-head lite looks crap compared to the Aluminium fin heatsink head but as long as it works I am happy.

BackEMF.
Flashing: As above i have the software needed and don't need to flash the board but I will look into it.
I decided to go with heatsinks just in case it goes bad.
I will add Bison D2 to the lsit of bed coatings that I need try.

OK, i am going to get stuck into the machine now and see how far i get. I have looked at the other self levelling designs and i think i get it.
Regards
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Thu, 21 Aug 2014 12:31:19 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397270#msg-397270 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397270#msg-397270
Quote
BackEMF
Quote
mikefiatx19
Hi Guys,
Maybe someone can help me with a few Smartrap issues.
1) Does anyone have any info about fitting the new J-head lite?
I just got my Smartrap through the post from Smartfrienz and there are no documents advising on how to put it together or adjust it. I assume the Ramps board included is pre-programmed to accept the new auto levelling setup but again I am unsure.
2) Do i need to put heat sinks on the pololus on the Ramps board? There were none attached to mine and none in the box that I got.
The reason I ask is because I can see heatsinks on the units that are shown on the Smartfrienz website but I would think that they would be part of the kit if I needed them.
3) What would you recommend to coat the glass bed to print PLA? I think blue tape ruins the finish of the printed parts and I know hairspray can clog up the nozzle.
Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Mike

1. I think you have to flash the firmware yourself. you need to install Arduino for this.
2. I'm not sure if the heatsinks are really needed. With the 40mm motors i think you can do without.
3. dilute some PVA glue (woodglue) 1 part PVA 3 parts water and brush it evenly on the glass with a paintbrush. (Initially i had a woodglue that didn't stick at all) Now i have Bison D2 and that works fine. I also tried sugar, and that worked reasonable too. Hairspray didn't work for me Though i see MarkStephen has very nice results with Aquanet hairspray. (Unfortunately that stuff is not available where i live)

The sugar method should only be used with a heated bed. PVA glue can be used with either heated or cold, but not as good as sugar, but really only method if you have a cold bed apart from using the paper glue sticks that also work pretty good. I have tried about 4 or 5 brands of the glue stick and they all work the same. Can't beat the sugar though if you have a heated bed.]]> regpye Smart_Rap Wed, 20 Aug 2014 23:37:46 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397264#msg-397264 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397264#msg-397264
Quote
mikefiatx19
Hi Guys,
Maybe someone can help me with a few Smartrap issues.
1) Does anyone have any info about fitting the new J-head lite?
I just got my Smartrap through the post from Smartfrienz and there are no documents advising on how to put it together or adjust it. I assume the Ramps board included is pre-programmed to accept the new auto levelling setup but again I am unsure.
2) Do i need to put heat sinks on the pololus on the Ramps board? There were none attached to mine and none in the box that I got.
The reason I ask is because I can see heatsinks on the units that are shown on the Smartfrienz website but I would think that they would be part of the kit if I needed them.
3) What would you recommend to coat the glass bed to print PLA? I think blue tape ruins the finish of the printed parts and I know hairspray can clog up the nozzle.
Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Mike

1. I think you have to flash the firmware yourself. you need to install Arduino for this.
2. I'm not sure if the heatsinks are really needed. With the 40mm motors i think you can do without.
3. dilute some PVA glue (woodglue) 1 part PVA 3 parts water and brush it evenly on the glass with a paintbrush. (Initially i had a woodglue that didn't stick at all) Now i have Bison D2 and that works fine. I also tried sugar, and that worked reasonable too. Hairspray didn't work for me Though i see MarkStephen has very nice results with Aquanet hairspray. (Unfortunately that stuff is not available where i live)]]> BackEMF Smart_Rap Wed, 20 Aug 2014 23:26:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397229#msg-397229 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397229#msg-397229
Quote
mikefiatx19
Hi Guys,
Maybe someone can help me with a few Smartrap issues.
1) Does anyone have any info about fitting the new J-head lite?
I just got my Smartrap through the post from Smartfrienz and there are no documents advising on how to put it together or adjust it. I assume the Ramps board included is pre-programmed to accept the new auto levelling setup but again I am unsure.
2) Do i need to put heat sinks on the pololus on the Ramps board? There were none attached to mine and none in the box that I got.
The reason I ask is because I can see heatsinks on the units that are shown on the Smartfrienz website but I would think that they would be part of the kit if I needed them.
3) What would you recommend to coat the glass bed to print PLA? I think blue tape ruins the finish of the printed parts and I know hairspray can clog up the nozzle.
Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Mike

HI Mike,
Are you using a heated bed or a cold bed?

If using a cold bed, coat the glass sheet with a heavy coating of PVA wood glue and a little water to thin it out so it is paintable. Let the glue dry very well before using. You will be able to lift the printed part off the bed with a sharp point of a knife, but be careful so you don't destroy the PVA coating.

If using a heated bed, clean the glass and add a small amount of sugar that has been mixed with a little water so it is now a thick syrup. Rub the sugar all over the glass very thinly (fingers) and then heat the bed as normal and print. Let the bed cool before removing the printed part (it will fall off easy) You can then print again straight away using the same sugar coating (many times)
To clean off the sugar at any time, just rinse under some water for a few minutes.
I would suggest several pieces of glass that are coated this way so you can do continual printings as the bed plates are cooling off.

It is best to have heatsinks where possible. With careful adjustment you can get away without them.

It is most likely that you will have to program your board because there will be some setting that need adjustment anyway. I most case (any kit) the boards are not pre-programmed. You should learn about the programming part as you will need to make several changes later as you get more experience with this machine or any other machine that you might want to build. We will help you, don't worry.

There are many heads available, the J-head lite is just one of them. My hotend has several mounting designs included and soon will also be a J-head lite direct replacement or a E3D replacement. Because of the printer design changing so much as it has been developing, new ideas for the head mount have been developing as well. Best to contact Serge about that part as he will know what this has been supplied for.]]> regpye Smart_Rap Wed, 20 Aug 2014 19:58:58 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397226#msg-397226 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397226#msg-397226
Quote
mikefiatx19
I assume the Ramps board included is pre-programmed to accept the new auto levelling setup but again I am unsure.

Specifically the Mega2560 board, that the Ramps board mounts on top of, is the one with the chip on it that accepts the firmware, called Marlin, that has the auto leveling code.
You know to use Arduino IDE to upload the firmware?

Quote
mikefiatx19
2) Do i need to put heat sinks on the pololus on the Ramps board? There were none attached to mine and none in the box that I got.
The reason I ask is because I can see heatsinks on the units that are shown on the Smartfrienz website but I would think that they would be part of the kit if I needed them.

Lots of confusion on the forums about heat sinks. My source is an electrical engineer friend and reading online.
The stepper drivers do NOT require heat sinks. Yes they get too hot to touch but they are made to operate that way.
The trick is to learn how to turn the little screw thing, to reduce the resistance, that reduces the current limit and therefore the voltage used by the motors.
Depends on which stepper drivers you have what to set them at so the motors don't make a lot of noise and so the motors don't get too hot.
I don't have the values right now. maybe someone else will list them.

Quote
mikefiatx19
3) What would you recommend to coat the glass bed to print PLA? I think blue tape ruins the finish of the printed parts and I know hairspray can clog up the nozzle.
Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Mike

Elmer's washable school glue stick, disappearing purple OR something similar.
I use a razor blade in a metal holder, to scrap off excess dried glue after a print, but I don't push so hard all the glue comes off. the glue washes off the bottom of the plastic.
Then refresh by putting on thin layer, with no overlap, where the next print is going to hit the bed.
Depending on the object I will slice with a brim that is 5 wide.]]> RTurnock Smart_Rap Wed, 20 Aug 2014 19:40:39 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397222#msg-397222 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,397222#msg-397222 Maybe someone can help me with a few Smartrap issues.
1) Does anyone have any info about fitting the new J-head lite?
I just got my Smartrap through the post from Smartfrienz and there are no documents advising on how to put it together or adjust it. I assume the Ramps board included is pre-programmed to accept the new auto levelling setup but again I am unsure.
2) Do i need to put heat sinks on the pololus on the Ramps board? There were none attached to mine and none in the box that I got.
The reason I ask is because I can see heatsinks on the units that are shown on the Smartfrienz website but I would think that they would be part of the kit if I needed them.
3) What would you recommend to coat the glass bed to print PLA? I think blue tape ruins the finish of the printed parts and I know hairspray can clog up the nozzle.
Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Mike]]> mikefiatx19 Smart_Rap Wed, 20 Aug 2014 19:20:40 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392680#msg-392680 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392680#msg-392680
Quote
BackEMF
I have a few suggestions:

Quote
RTurnock
Kits for the students to build, test, calibrate, print parts for another printer and then take the printer apart so that the next semester students can do the same thing all over again.

Why not let the kids keep the printer and also teach them to work with the printer and CAD stuff etc.
The printers keep evolving too, so just print new parts with the existing printers and this gives you a more recent model fort the next group.

Yes, my plan is evolving into me accumulating kits and printers and drawing robots before Sept when school starts. Then donating them to the school to seed the program.
Their printers keep evolving as the designs online improve and evolve. Just like you wrote.

Quote
BackEMF
Quote
RTurnock
Don't want to use Spectra fishing line,

To teach about tuning the printer Spectra line is actually great to teach about calculating to tune the printer. GT2 and R&P are simpler to set up, though in my opinion you would me missing an opportunity to teach a few valuable things.
You could also make a simple breadboard with RAMPS and a few motors just to teach about the firmware without doing harm to the hardware if there are adventurers who like to experiment a bit.

Excellent ideas....I will include them in my documentation of the teacher.

Quote
BackEMF
For the BOM.
You should be able to save some money on the PCB's
Also consider Regpyes Genie hotend and also his geared extruder.
I don't know if it is practical, but you can also build several types of extruders and again do some teaching on the tuning side of things.
you could also include a bit of bearing grease or use printed LM8UU bearing replacements

Yes, thank you...Just found on Aliexpress, for about $45 or less, I can get Mega2560+Ramps+A4988 steppers, and some sets include a 2004 LCD
You are right about exposing them to different extruders. Thanks
]]> RTurnock Smart_Rap Fri, 08 Aug 2014 23:54:10 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392673#msg-392673 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392673#msg-392673


Quote
RTurnock
Kits for the students to build, test, calibrate, print parts for another printer and then take the printer apart so that the next semester students can do the same thing all over again.

Why not let the kids keep the printer and also teach them to work with the printer and CAD stuff etc.
The printers keep evolving too, so just print new parts with the existing printers and this gives you a more recent model fort the next group.


Quote
RTurnock
Don't want to use Spectra fishing line,

To teach about tuning the printer Spectra line is actually great to teach about calculating to tune the printer. GT2 and R&P are simpler to set up, though in my opinion you would me missing an opportunity to teach a few valuable things.

You could also make a simple breadboard with RAMPS and a few motors just to teach about the firmware without doing harm to the hardware if there are adventurers who like to experiment a bit.

For the BOM.
You should be able to save some money on the PCB's
Also consider Regpyes Genie hotend and also his geared extruder.

I don't know if it is practical, but you can also build several types of extruders and again do some teaching on the tuning side of things.

you could also include a bit of bearing grease or use printed LM8UU bearing replacements]]> BackEMF Smart_Rap Fri, 08 Aug 2014 23:01:10 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392186#msg-392186 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392186#msg-392186 Any comments are welcome.
[drive.google.com]]]> RTurnock Smart_Rap Thu, 07 Aug 2014 18:17:29 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392176#msg-392176 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392176#msg-392176
Here is my current list of parts and links for sourcing.
I would appreciate comments because I hope to share this with the local high school teacher and maybe buy enough to start a printer farm.]]> RTurnock Smart_Rap Thu, 07 Aug 2014 17:50:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392175#msg-392175 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,392175#msg-392175 Hi Smartrap users and developers,

I have been building and using 3D printers for about 9 months and have a connection to the local high school teacher who wants to include building and working with 3D printers in his technology class.
I have suggested he get Kits for the students to build, test, calibrate, print parts for another printer and then take the printer apart so that the next semester students can do the same thing all over again.

To test out my theory, I used hardware I already had from taking apart a printer, and I bought a set of Smartrap plastic parts (in USA) but they are based on version 0.4.x prior to the current version, and once I realized that, after I had started assembly, I going to start printing parts for version 0.4.9 and take this one apart to rebuild it. Don't want to use Spectra fishing line,,,,been there, done that,,,,,not interested in the cheapest option, but trying to keep costs low in anticipation of making a recommendation to the high school teacher.

Some of the students will never make it to actually printing something, unless we give them a kit that has all the parts and we know it will work once assembled.
Other students will be able to take on a more challenging project, like Smartrap, where the design is evolving, and they can make changes and upgrades as they go along.
So, I am thinking of getting a printing farm started at the local high school, get them printing Smartrap parts, get the teacher to buy several hardware kits - I am typing up a parts list and sourcing with prices this week.

I would like to stay in the loop on the evolving design of the Smartrap and so will frequent this forum reading, but maybe not commenting.
I have all the links to Smartrap on Github, thingiverse, other websites and forums, and Google: [sites.google.com]

I am most interested in the overall strategy for the evolving Smartrap.

Anyone in the USA putting together a complete kit for someone to assemble a Smartrap?

Thank you
]]> RTurnock Smart_Rap Thu, 07 Aug 2014 17:47:19 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,384107#msg-384107 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,384107#msg-384107
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BackEMF
Hmm, for some reason the Z axis is screeming especially during bedleveling. The small adjustments during a print are quiet.

Around about line 375 in configuration.h file there should be a line that is similar to this
v
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2.5, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,50,500} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good

Make sure that you don't have the settings too high.]]> regpye Smart_Rap Wed, 16 Jul 2014 21:55:29 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,384083#msg-384083 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,384083#msg-384083
And, yes I have fine tuned the stepper currents.
What kind of dampener do you use on the Z axis? I've tried it but that made the Z axis less stable.

I have the feeling there is something else going on on the Z-axis. I will try again to finetune.
I remember that the first days it seemed to make far less noise. Not sure if my memory is correct.]]> BackEMF Smart_Rap Wed, 16 Jul 2014 19:43:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,384073#msg-384073 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,384073#msg-384073
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BackEMF
Hmm, for some reason the Z axis is screeming especially during bedleveling. The small adjustments during a print are quiet.

could this be the stepper drivers need adjusting to control the current going to the motor?
Usually the noise from motors, except for vibration - i use dampeners, is from not having the sweet spot adjusted on the stepper drivers.]]> RTurnock Smart_Rap Wed, 16 Jul 2014 19:12:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373817#msg-373817 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373817#msg-373817
Mark]]> markstephen Smart_Rap Mon, 23 Jun 2014 23:24:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373814#msg-373814 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373814#msg-373814
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markstephen
Think I have about all the printed parts made. Center section and outer retainer for the second Hotend, the dual extruder extension and idler, and Bowden tube looms - 4 "dog bone" and 3 "C" type, for Bowden tube management.

Mark


This should prove to be very interesting, can't wait to see the prints.
]]> regpye Smart_Rap Mon, 23 Jun 2014 22:59:49 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373807#msg-373807 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373807#msg-373807
Mark


]]> markstephen Smart_Rap Mon, 23 Jun 2014 22:22:21 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373333#msg-373333 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373333#msg-373333 BackEMF Smart_Rap Sun, 22 Jun 2014 22:50:53 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373082#msg-373082 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373082#msg-373082
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regpye

That is easy Serge, just use a couple or more of my extruders and do what MeIT did only using the new mounting brackets that I have in "Free Stuff" on my website, instead of a block of wood..
You could bank as many as you want that way.

Glad to have made a contribution here. :)]]> MelT Smart_Rap Sun, 22 Jun 2014 07:51:40 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373044#msg-373044 Re: Smartrap evolution, improvements... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,347964,373044#msg-373044
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smartfriendz
wonderful mark ! I'm so curious to see that in place :)

I'm thinking about where to put those 2 extruder steppers already :)

and what if we put 4 ? thinking hard here ..

That is easy Serge, just use a couple or more of my extruders and do what MeIT did only using the new mounting brackets that I have in "Free Stuff" on my website, instead of a block of wood..
You could bank as many as you want that way.

EDIT:
Here are a couple of photos of the motor mount attached to a motor.

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]]> regpye Smart_Rap Sun, 22 Jun 2014 05:25:57 -0400