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        <title>New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
        <description>Hi, my name is Phillip and I recently purchased a SmartRap kit that was unsuccessfully built and may have broken/missing parts. I am looking forward to resurrecting this as my first kit 3d printer. I have a working Da Vinci 1.0 that I&#039;ve modified to print both PLA and ABS. I would like assistance identifying which version of the SmartRap this is so that I can locate assembly instructions as well as any recommendations for updates/upgrades to incorporate. I should receive the printer kit as well as a new Arduino Mega by the end of the week.</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,451857#msg-451857</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Wed, 20 May 2026 18:46:14 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,480716#msg-480716</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,480716#msg-480716</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>prpickett</strong><br />
Adding a heated bed to the printer currently. Also working on modifying the carriages for Reg's bushings. I seem to remember reading that they worked better if you left them connected so I need to move the mounts closer. May also try printing 10mm bushings for the Z axis since I have 10mm rod. That would allow me to use the current z rods for the x-axis and increase my build area. I'm currently 190x120x180. I may put the z-rods on a platform since the new bed will raise the y-axis a bit and there is already a cm or so at the bottom I can't use.  Also ended up leaking PLA from my nozzle. Don't think I had assembled correctly (Didn't tighten after heating). Regarding the heatbed, I understand that I need to put an insulating material between the PCB and the mounting surface (probably going to use thin MDF since I have some). I've read that cork or even cardboard will work under the PCB, any thoughts on what is effective, readily available, and inexpensive? Also, do you just put the thermister through the center hole and tape or do most folks put some type of sealant in the hole?</div></blockquote>
<br />
Yes the bushings are best held together in a pair, it gives good alignment that way.  I made them as a pair with a groove in the middle where it can be cut into two pieces if needed (maybe for the Y carriage)<br />
It is important when assembling the bushings that they are glued in place when in the PLA printed parts. The groove acts as a grab point for the glue.<br />
<br />
When fitting a nozzle it is best to screw on finger tight to start with and then heat up to normal working temp (highest you will be using)n and carefully tighten again with a spanner (wrench), that way the expansion has already taken place and it will seal nicely.  To remove the nozzle, do the reverse, heat up and then loosen, let cool down and unscrew. don't try and take off when it is cold without heating up and loosening first.<br />
<br />
I use a 6mm MDF Y carriage that is covered with aluminium foil. On top of this sits the aluminium platform with a silicone heated pad attached to it.  The aluminium platform is held onto the MDF with four countersunk M3 bolts with 3 nuts as spacers to hold the aluminium platform above the MDF (gives some clearance for the heated pad.)  On top of all of this I clip on a sheet of plain 3mm window glass using just two spring back clips. I only use two because if you use four you will bend the glass for sure, two just holds the glass and allows it ti stay straight and as flat as it is possible (all glass is slightly bent anyway, but not much). This system has worked well on over 70 machines I have built so far.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>regpye</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2015 18:23:27 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,480688#msg-480688</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,480688#msg-480688</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Adding a heated bed to the printer currently. Also working on modifying the carriages for Reg's bushings. I seem to remember reading that they worked better if you left them connected so I need to move the mounts closer. May also try printing 10mm bushings for the Z axis since I have 10mm rod. That would allow me to use the current z rods for the x-axis and increase my build area. I'm currently 190x120x180. I may put the z-rods on a platform since the new bed will raise the y-axis a bit and there is already a cm or so at the bottom I can't use.  Also ended up leaking PLA from my nozzle. Don't think I had assembled correctly (Didn't tighten after heating). Regarding the heatbed, I understand that I need to put an insulating material between the PCB and the mounting surface (probably going to use thin MDF since I have some). I've read that cork or even cardboard will work under the PCB, any thoughts on what is effective, readily available, and inexpensive? Also, do you just put the thermister through the center hole and tape or do most folks put some type of sealant in the hole?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2015 17:19:56 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,469751#msg-469751</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,469751#msg-469751</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The 'Genie' slide as hot knifes trough butter.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>BackEMF</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Feb 2015 07:27:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,469631#msg-469631</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,469631#msg-469631</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Received my Genie Mk 2 as well as a bunch of parts today. The bushings that Reg sells are really impressive, much smoother than the LM8s I've been using. I plan to redesign my SmartRap to take advantage of all the new parts as well as include some of the enhancements I read on this forum. I'm also replacing the bearings on my other printer with Reg's bushings. I really appreciate all of the advice and ideas you guys have provided.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Feb 2015 02:53:58 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467897#msg-467897</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467897#msg-467897</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ My current filament melts at 230c which is very high and eventually the hotend clogs ant it's a JHead MKII from MakerFarm so no chinese clone..  I got some MEK from  home depot and that melted the PLA to a black glob that I could remove.  I ordered a Genie MK2 from reg so am looking forward to using it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>rcjoseb</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Feb 2015 14:03:36 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467883#msg-467883</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467883#msg-467883</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm thinking about getting this one  based on price, location, and coming with wire/thermistor ( [<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK2B-12-24V-Heat-Bed-RepRap-3D-printers-Thermistor-Heat-Shield-Wire-/331224190847" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.ebay.com</a>] ).  Besides the bed, and glass to print on, do you have to add something underneath for mounting on the smartrap? I'm currently using Reg's stand alone Y axis, with thin wood "planks" spanning each side.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Feb 2015 13:18:40 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467616#msg-467616</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467616#msg-467616</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>prpickett</strong><br />
Had success with both glue stick and wood glue thinned with 2x water. Glue stick worked too well, I thought I was going to break something trying to get the part off. Now that I have 2 glass plates set up with the PVA glue, I may stick with that rather than adding a heated bed. The hot-end is the biggest problem right now. I haven't had success with anything above a speed of 30. I still need to do a temp. calibration print but 205 C seems to be the sweet spot with my current filament. I've been printing these at 75% ( [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:114714" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>] ) based upon some requests from my wife's 5th grade class. Come out pretty well except for the strings. I just cut them off since even when they come out good, one strum and they snap.</div></blockquote>
If you ever get a heated bed, try sugar and water method, it is the very best of all of them.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>regpye</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Feb 2015 02:25:52 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467610#msg-467610</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467610#msg-467610</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Had success with both glue stick and wood glue thinned with 2x water. Glue stick worked too well, I thought I was going to break something trying to get the part off. Now that I have 2 glass plates set up with the PVA glue, I may stick with that rather than adding a heated bed. The hot-end is the biggest problem right now. I haven't had success with anything above a speed of 30. I still need to do a temp. calibration print but 205 C seems to be the sweet spot with my current filament. I've been printing these at 75% ( [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:114714" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>] ) based upon some requests from my wife's 5th grade class. Come out pretty well except for the strings. I just cut them off since even when they come out good, one strum and they snap.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Feb 2015 01:25:39 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467597#msg-467597</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467597#msg-467597</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm glad you got it going. I use the Elmer's stick glue, but I heard good things about reg's method.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>madmike8</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Feb 2015 22:47:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467592#msg-467592</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467592#msg-467592</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>prpickett</strong><br />
Issues fixed. Replace the M280 line with M402 and I had neglected the "-" sign on the z offset. Now I just have to work on getting PLA to stick to an unheated bed while I await Reg's hotend to replace the J-head clone.</div></blockquote>
A good thick coating of PVA wood glue works well on a cool bed.<br />
Make sure that it is completely dry before using it, the colour should change from a white colour to a clear colour.<br />
Prints stick well to this surface and can be used many times before stripping off and replacing again.<br />
Your parcel should be arriving very soon, it was posted over two weeks ago.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>regpye</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Feb 2015 22:24:06 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467476#msg-467476</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467476#msg-467476</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ PLA will stick very well into an unheated piece of glass if you lay down a good first layer.  Elmer's purple glue stick also works really well but the final print can be a little hard to get off.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>rcjoseb</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Feb 2015 13:58:48 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467429#msg-467429</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467429#msg-467429</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Issues fixed. Replace the M280 line with M402 and I had neglected the "-" sign on the z offset. Now I just have to work on getting PLA to stick to an unheated bed while I await Reg's hotend to replace the J-head clone.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Feb 2015 11:36:58 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467213#msg-467213</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,467213#msg-467213</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've gotten everything assembled and tested but I am having an issue with the z-offset and auto-leveling. I think I have correctly set the z offset by setting the head a paper thickness from the glass and then determining the position when the limit switch just activates based upon this post by MadMike [<a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?344,369563" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">forums.reprap.org</a>]  . When I try starting a print, it goes through the auto-leveling but it doesn't retract the servo after the last point and starts extruding above the bed. It may be due to the limit switch still being down. Here is the start g-code I put in Slic3r:<br />
G1 Z10.0 F500 ;ensures probe have enough clearance<br />
M400 ;Wait for clearance<br />
M401;deploy probe<br />
G28 X0 Y0;Home X and Y Axis<br />
G90; Set to Absolute Positioning<br />
G29; Probe the bed<br />
G1 Z10.0 F500;Clearance for retraction<br />
M400 ;Wait for cearance<br />
M280 P0 S0;Retract probe<br />
M400;wait<br />
G1 X10 Y10 Z10; Moves close to origin and await proper temp<br />
<br />
Any advice? Thanks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 06 Feb 2015 22:00:32 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,458053#msg-458053</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,458053#msg-458053</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Could I get a copy of those too... sent ya a PM<br />
<br />
Mike M]]></description>
            <dc:creator>madmike8</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 20 Jan 2015 13:38:40 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,456892#msg-456892</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,456892#msg-456892</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>prpickett</strong><br />
Reg,<br />
Is this the 3rd smartrap build? I'm having trouble finding the stl files. I saw the extruder ones, the wide y axis, and some awesome chess pieces.<br />
<br />
.</div></blockquote>
<br />
I have emailed you the full set]]></description>
            <dc:creator>regpye</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 18 Jan 2015 05:43:03 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,456561#msg-456561</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,456561#msg-456561</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>madmike8</strong><br />
SmartRap 4.6 Files 8mm rods<br />
<br />
I had to split it into two separate RAR files to be able to attach them.</div></blockquote>
<br />
Bloody beautiful!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>loidor</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 17 Jan 2015 06:53:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,456236#msg-456236</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,456236#msg-456236</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yeah, if you look at my thread I did a GT2 belt conversion that was pretty easy and worked well...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>madmike8</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 16 Jan 2015 10:43:17 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455887#msg-455887</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455887#msg-455887</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Reg,<br />
Is this the 3rd smartrap build? I'm having trouble finding the stl files. I saw the extruder ones, the wide y axis, and some awesome chess pieces.<br />
<br />
MadMike,<br />
Thank you. Worst case, I can use this with the thingivers GT2 mod, just need to get some 625 bearings..]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2015 16:14:31 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455826#msg-455826</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455826#msg-455826</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ SmartRap 4.6 Files 8mm rods<br />
<br />
I had to split it into two separate RAR files to be able to attach them.<br />
<br />
[attachment 47192 SmartRap4_6-1.rar]<br />
<br />
[attachment 47193 SmartRap4_6-2.rar]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>madmike8</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2015 13:58:02 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455523#msg-455523</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455523#msg-455523</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>prpickett</strong><br />
I am considering giving up on the 8mm version. I am having alignment problems/construction issues with the baseplate, x_plate, and y_plate as well as gt2 belt clearances. I tried overlaying the 6mm and 8mm versions and it appears that there are quite a few differences besides just the rod/bearing sizes/holes. Is there a history file with previous 8mm versions available? I'm willing to try the spectra line versions. Thanks.</div></blockquote>
<br />
I have built several versions of the SmatrtRap, and out of all of them, this one was the very best.<br />
<br />
[<a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?344,354571,361872#msg-361872" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">forums.reprap.org</a>]<br />
<br />
The files are available on my website for free download.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>regpye</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2015 00:54:48 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455511#msg-455511</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,455511#msg-455511</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I am considering giving up on the 8mm version. I am having alignment problems/construction issues with the baseplate, x_plate, and y_plate as well as gt2 belt clearances. I tried overlaying the 6mm and 8mm versions and it appears that there are quite a few differences besides just the rod/bearing sizes/holes. Is there a history file with previous 8mm versions available? I'm willing to try the spectra line versions. Thanks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2015 00:19:34 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454504#msg-454504</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454504#msg-454504</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You can find <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:574019" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">here</a> jhead and aluhotend holders.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ldanut</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jan 2015 03:47:32 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454443#msg-454443</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454443#msg-454443</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Quick inspection shows the 8mm version for the y-base plate doesn't have adjustable screw holes for the mount to the stepper. Should be a relatively easy fix.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2015 22:59:52 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454418#msg-454418</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454418#msg-454418</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Started  assembly today and found issues with the newly printed parts. specifically the 8mm files from the git-hub. The bearing holders don't seem to align with the end plates for the y axis. Quick inspection shows the bearing holders at front aren't parallel to the rear bearing holders. I'm going to scrub the stl files to verify they are good and then try re-printing.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2015 20:41:59 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454375#msg-454375</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454375#msg-454375</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ For switch enabled bed leveling, the proper STL files are located on thingiverse [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:177256" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>]  however they are for the huxley and jhead lite.  If you have a standard jhead or a jhead MK5 model, you can try this one [<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:301007" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.thingiverse.com</a>].  It supports switch bed leveling and may fit the standard jhead.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>rcjoseb</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2015 18:08:50 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454326#msg-454326</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,454326#msg-454326</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ My printer wouldn't connect in Pronterface with the baudrate of 1152000. I just changed it to the other and it worked fine. Also i see files for both the jhead, jhead lite, and Huxley. It should be a similar setup as to the jhead lite.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>knife-edge</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2015 16:10:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453910#msg-453910</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453910#msg-453910</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The stl files that I'm confused about are the endx_jhead files. The build instructions only show the Huxley and the J-head lite. Also, there is a directdrive_extra_support.stl that I'm not sure if I need or where it goes. Thank you.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2015 17:23:33 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453904#msg-453904</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453904#msg-453904</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Recieved the smartrap, new mega, and gt2 pulleys/belts. I'm reprinting parts now. Printed in ABS and they were a little too snug on the bearings/rods and I cracked a few putting together. Suspect the ABS I was using shrunk too much. Reprinting everything at 103% and 40% infill. I'll see how that works out. I installed firmware and tested the motors out. Everything seems to work. I thought the baud rate was supposed to be 250000 according to the directions but the firmware has that value commented out and 115200 set. Switching the baud rate worked. I think I may have the limit switches wired or connected incorrectly but pretty sure I can get that straightened out before my prints are ready. I'm using a modified ATX power supply, a netbook with Crunchbang Linux as the OS. I plan to go with the servo-less design for now with the J-head clone and GT2 belts. Most of the assembly appears straightforward but I'm not sure if the j-head mount is the same as j-head lite. Also the STL I printed from the github for the hotend mount doesn't appear to have a place to mount the limit switch. If anyone has that type of setup, I would really appreciate seeing a close-up of how everything connects at the hot-end.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2015 17:11:11 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453248#msg-453248</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453248#msg-453248</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I would also reprint the extruder. It light be worn down and it's not fun to have to throw away a print because your extruder breaks (ask me how I know).]]></description>
            <dc:creator>knife-edge</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 10 Jan 2015 00:44:05 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453234#msg-453234</guid>
            <title>Re: New &quot;old&quot; SmartRap Build</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?344,451857,453234#msg-453234</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Received it today. Still waiting on the arduino and gt2 belts/rollers. Missing a few nuts/bolts. I printed the 2 8mm STL plates from the Github. Still trying to figure out what else is needed. The hot-end appears to be a generic j-head, .3 nozzle. It looks like it will be a smaller build, the rods are 240mm (4) and 295 mm (2) all 8mm. I plan to start piecing it together tomorrow. A little unclear how to set up the bowden tube at the stepper motor but I'm sure Google will help figure it out. Still pretty excited.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>prpickett</dc:creator>
            <category>Smart_Rap</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2015 23:00:55 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
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