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        <title>Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
        <description>Hello, last year I decided I wanted to try to get into 3d printing as a hobby.  I started with a Prusa i3 and after a couple months I felt the need to have a larger printer.  What I want to print requires a 30cm x 50cm print bed and I felt like I would get the most satisfaction out of making my own printer.  I started out thinking I could just scale up a hypercube, but I found out the hard way that it didn&#039;t scale up very well.  I currently have 2sqft sheet of 1/4 mic6 aluminum for a print bed sitting in a frame measuring 26&quot; x 32&quot; x 50&quot; and am in the process of trial and error in making it all work.  The frame is made mostly out of 2020 extrusion, and will be wrapped in wood.  I was worried about the strength of the 2020, but it all feels fairly stiff when I bolt on the sides.  I had problems with the frame twisting causing the x axis to bind up, but that seems to have been resolved after attaching the wood.  I am at a point where I think I need help with my printer as I have spent more on this than I had originally hoped to.  My current biggest problem is with the z axis.  I had two 1620 ball screws centered on the sides with 10mm rods/linear bearings at each corner.  This rocked back and forth too much so I had to scrap it.  I do not have any room at the front or back of the print bed for a third ball screw and don&#039;t really want to have two on one side as I had a hard enough time finding a belt long enough for the two I have now.  I have switched over to having the ball screws at opposing corners with hopes that that will minimize the rocking.  It seems like I will have to make the z axis very rigid and with that I am curious if my drive setup for the z axis will be strong enough to move all the weight.  I have a single nema 17, 92oz.in stepper with a 16 tooth pulley driving 40 tooth pulleys on the 1620 ball screws.  Will that be enough to move what will probably be 20-25lbs without any print?  I am also worried about the X/Y setup, I have abandoned the hypercube design and have moved onto mgn12 linear rails.  I started to work on designing my own X/Y, but I am concerned that there are odd problems that may come up due to the size.  In my initial testing (no belts) I found that PETG flexes too much for my liking and have a roll of carbon fiber PETG.  I also have worries about the belt, and how I might keep adequate tension without creating new problems.  Are there any decent setups that I could use with my current 2020 extrusion and mgn12 rails?  I am getting a little tired of the trial and error stage I seem to be stuck in.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/w7af6C6.jpg[/img]</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,817215#msg-817215</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Tue, 08 Sep 2026 09:06:40 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,853050#msg-853050</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,853050#msg-853050</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just a note on max GT2 belt lengths, I was looking for a specific belt and came across a 2220mm option (thought 1524mm was the max before):<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MWDGY72/?coliid=I1JE7M4IWJ5ZGT&amp;colid=259WIFTMSMVH1&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Amazon 2220 GT2 belt</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>gmedlicott</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2019 02:20:01 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,839714#msg-839714</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,839714#msg-839714</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Got around to poking at the printer again.  I changed my carriage stuff again for a cleaner belt routing and easier attaching of the hot end or whatever.  Also went ahead with a different belt route for the z axis so I could have something that works.  I am waiting for one more pulley and I will just need to finalize how I want to mount the bed to the z axis.  I have also played with my hot end arrangement, it just needs wired up.  I have two versions, one with a probe, one without.  I think I am going to go without the probe.<br />
<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2018 16:49:31 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,834745#msg-834745</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,834745#msg-834745</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've bought a 1000mm+ closed belt from Amazon vendor '2GT Timing Belt Closed Loop', BEMONOC branded.  The largest they list is 1524mm in both 6mm and 9mm.  They have a wide selection in the 900-1000 range, maybe two belts would work?<br />
<br />
Also, the Amazon vendor 'FidgetFidget' has a dropdown list of all the common sizes of belts, looks like 1524mm is the max.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>gmedlicott</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2018 16:01:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,833929#msg-833929</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,833929#msg-833929</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm pretty sure I'm happy with my z axis now, I just needed a slight modification to my brackets and everything seems fine.  My problem now is that I'm having a problem finding a belt that is a suitable length.  Does anyone know where I can get a belt somewhere between 175-190cm?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 17 Sep 2018 21:54:17 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,832623#msg-832623</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,832623#msg-832623</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ We've dicussed a method in a thread about 'exact constraint' and I made a short video, how the <i>dual roller trick</i> helps against <i>racking</i>.<br />
IMHO you could live with a single ballscrew and a cantilevered bed with that gimmick at both sides of the bed.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3Q9g4Sf7RU" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Video</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>o_lampe</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 02 Sep 2018 02:49:45 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,832611#msg-832611</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,832611#msg-832611</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have swapped out the steel core belts and ditched a few pulleys.  I changed a few things to accommodate the belt change and tried adjusting belt tension on the carriage.  I was able to get the tension close enough for me this way, I measured a difference in movement on my Y axis of ~.2mm across the 700mm or so between linear bearings.  I also swapped out the linear bearings that came with the rails with some Hiwin bearings.  I didn't think the bearings I had were noisy so I was hesitant to pull everything apart to swap them out.  I will say that the Hiwin bearings are significantly quieter, especially when things move fast.  I messed with the alignment my Y axis rails until light taps would send everything sliding down the length of the rails, this reduced noise further.  I called it good enough with a difference of .15mm variation in rail placement from one end to the other across the 600mm travel.  I tried for a while to get this to be better but when I would set it dead on I would have some slight binding and the bearings wouldn't ride as smooth. I am fine with this and am pretty sure its just my frame not being perfectly square.<br />
<br />
I am now back to messing with the Z axis, I am just unhappy with everything I have tried so far.  I want to say that the 10mm rods I am using are just undersized for what I want, but at this point I don't really feel like buying more stuff again.  At the moment I am trying two 10mm rods with longer linear bearings on the outside with a 1620 ballscrew in the middle.  This setup is mimicked for each side.  The problem I have with this is that I can get this to rock up and down a couple degrees and I think it is due to some flex/give in the 10mm rods.  This does take a little bit of force, maybe more than the weight of anything I would print.  I have not tried coupling the left and right sides together to see how hard it would be to move, maybe it would be fine.  I intend to make a 2020 frame to couple everything together, with a 1/2" thick piece of MDF attached for added rigidity.  This is all getting pretty heavy for the z axis, easily 30lbs of weight.  On the topic of weight, I am realizing that this printer is going to end up weighing ~200lbs by the time I am done.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 01 Sep 2018 18:15:03 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831339#msg-831339</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831339#msg-831339</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Danke! (thanks ;-))<br />
<br />
P.S. drilling is NOT boring ;-)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JoergS5</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 16 Aug 2018 01:29:55 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831335#msg-831335</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831335#msg-831335</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong></strong><br />I have problems <u>boring</u> exact holes in aluminium...</div></blockquote>
<br />
@Joerg<br />
boring = langweilig<br />
drilling ( holes ) = Löcher bohren <br />
:)<br />
<br />
Schönen Tag noch<br />
Olaf]]></description>
            <dc:creator>o_lampe</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 16 Aug 2018 00:31:57 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831319#msg-831319</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831319#msg-831319</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I reviewed Dice: it achieved 1000 mm/s and 10000 mm/s², but without extruding!<br />
<br />
Sorry, I was not observing enough. And he uses small pulleys, which supports your words.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JoergS5</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 14:19:01 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831318#msg-831318</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831318#msg-831318</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Were there any photos of prints made at 800 mm/sec?  In a small printer, the only way to get the mechanism to hit that sort of speed is to have extremely high acceleration.  But that requires very high acceleration in the extruder, too.<br />
Let's say you manage to print at 800 mm/sec.  In a small machine the extruder is going to be putting hot plastic on top of hot plastic, so even if the extruder can keep up with the acceleration/speed, the resulting print is going to be poor quality.<br />
<br />
The problem with big bearings for pulleys is the mass.  Every time the belt moves, you have to spin the mass of the pulleys, too, and 4 of them plus their 12 mm axles will be on the moving Y axis.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 14:12:50 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831317#msg-831317</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831317#msg-831317</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I read at the DICE description about 800 mm/s speed and wondered how he achieved that.<br />
Edit: ok, I checked the video again: the speed test is without extruding :-)<br />
<br />
I found a ball bearing fitting could be a 6301: 12x37x12, so you need only one at each place, even with 9 mm belt. I would use a 12 mm shaft directly with locking rings.<br />
<br />
In a CNC forum I found an information about so called "ballige Kugellager" (english: spherical/crowned/convex bearings?). They are thicker in the middle and self centre the belts. But they are not cheap.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JoergS5</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 13:58:31 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831288#msg-831288</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831288#msg-831288</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think you'll find that moving the mechanism, even if you use 16 tooth pulleys and 400 step/rev motors, is not going to limit print speed.  Extrusion is the limiting factor.  Trying to make a quality print above 200 mm/sec is a real challenge because the stuff coming out of the extruder takes time to cool.  Getting that stuff to come out of a small nozzle fast enough to keep up with the mechanism is also a problem.  <br />
<br />
There's nothing stopping you from using 40 mm pulleys with glass core belts.  The only problem there is how do you make the pulleys?  You could try to print some pieces that fit over bearings, but if your print isn't really good, it may produce defects in the prints your machine produces.  Imagine a seam that puts a little extra tug on the belt every time the pulley rotates, then multiply that by at least 8 for all the pulleys in the mechanism.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 09:06:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831280#msg-831280</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831280#msg-831280</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thank you for your opinion. I am still not sure what I will do.<br />
<br />
I want to be flexible with pulley sizes on the stepper because I don't know which speed is possible maintaining a good quality print. It will be trial and error, I did not see a mathematical model anywhere to decide this. For example, is it possible to use 60 tooth pulleys on the stepper and run full speed?<br />
<br />
Same uncertainty is with pulley diameter also: I thought about 40 mm diameter pulleys and using steel belts. But I don't know whether this is better than the glass fiber solution.<br />
<br />
This uncertainties are the reason why I try to build a system which I can change fast, to allow experiments. So my goal is to use a highly modular system (Z totally separated from XY, and both from he frame).<br />
<br />
I agree with you that if a solution does not fit, then construct another one. That is the reason why I have to build a small CNC machine first now. I have problems <s>boring</s> drilling exact holes in aluminium...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JoergS5</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 07:50:35 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831278#msg-831278</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831278#msg-831278</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It should work as long as the left motor is moved only to the right and not to the left, and the right motor is moved only to the left and not the right.<br />
<br />
To me, adding more pulleys is a lot more trouble than measuring the belt thickness.  If you're going to tension the belts by moving the motors anyway, why not put them in the correct left-right positions and make sure the adjustment only moves them in Y (use the slots in the frame as the guide for the motion)?  I've seen some builds where people actually put in two pulleys and bend the cable path 90 degrees so that moving the motors in X tensions the belts.  If you did that, you could change pulley sizes on the motors, and change belts without regard to thickness because the extra pulleys will keep everything that needs to be aligned in place.<br />
<br />
I think it's like making screw-adjustable tensioners.  You can do it, but you only have to tension the belts once, so is it worth the trouble of a complex design?  If the parts that mount the motors and pulleys are all printed, it isn't difficult to change the dimensions and just print another part if you decide to change from a 16 tooth drive pulley to a 20 tooth pulley, for example (but why would you ever do that?)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 07:24:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831275#msg-831275</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831275#msg-831275</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>the_digital_dentist</strong><br />
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</div></blockquote>
<br />
I want to rebuild your CoreXY construction but think about a modification, adding two pulleys:<br />
[attachment 106621 coreyadditionalpulley.jpg]<br />
<br />
The stepper can be a bit more right (left stepper) or more left (right stepper).<br />
<br />
The additional pulleys are good for:<br />
- easier align the three pulleys which must be in one line (4 identical housings, no belt thickness calculations, one pulleys axis line)<br />
- tensioning of stepper is easier, as the position is not critical in X direction<br />
<br />
What do you think?<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JoergS5</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 05:42:28 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831259#msg-831259</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831259#msg-831259</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ A loose belt would end up in flat spots while trying to print a circle. There will be a dead time at the turning points of movement.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>o_lampe</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 00:41:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831192#msg-831192</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831192#msg-831192</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yeah I know I should have figured out the movement first and then built the machine around that.  I actually started by trying to do this as a larger tech2c style hypercube and found that it just wasn't a good approach for the printer this size.  This actually kind of haunts me as I am not a fan of the 2020 extrusion but keep it anyway knowing it will be stiff enough with the wood mounted on the frame.  You mention that the tension might cause failure in the parts, how much tension is needed?  I had the belts tight enough to pluck with the previous routing and can't imagine that being enough to break the printed parts.  What are the side effects of not being tight enough?  The PETG I am using seems to hold up well when I try to twist or break the parts.  The final prints are in carbon fiber PETG with 45% infill, and I have seen the 2020 extrusion twist by the time before the pulley bracket deflects.  Speaking of twists, is there any harm in twisting the belts 180 along the run in the back?  I preferred being able to use the belt clamps and I don't think they will hold the smooth side adequately if the tension has to be so tight I should worry about potentially breaking the pulley mounts.  Also, if I go back to being able to clamp the belts like this I can tension the belts like I did the first time which was at the resolution of one tooth increments.  This was good enough to get the machine to move square the first time.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:25:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831096#msg-831096</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831096#msg-831096</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The belt tension on that adjustable pulley is going to also put tension on the little printed fork that the pulley is mounted in, with the force trying to pull the layers of plastic apart.  That is the weakest direction for the printed plastic to be loaded.  That's not going to last long.<br />
<br />
You're going to need a metal bracket/fork to hold the pulley itself because there's no way to remove the tension on it.  If you're going to keep putting tension on the adjuster parts (the pulley frame, etc.) you'll have to print them rotated 90 degrees (and use lots of support material) so that the tension is pulling along the layer lines.  Everything will have to be bulked up, too.  It would be better if you put the adjuster parts outside the enclosure so the belt tension puts some of them into compression.<br />
<br />
You aren't going to need so much adjustment range to tighten the belts.  You should be able to simplify the design a lot- like remove some of those extra pulleys that are going to greatly increase the load on the motors.  <br />
<br />
You can tension the belts at any of the locations shown in the image below:<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
If you push on the belts at the back and/or sides of the machine, you don't have to bend the belts around multiple pulleys at the corners.  Pushing against the belts can be done using printed parts that are in compression, so they'll be much better able to handle the stress, and the belts won't have to wrap around the pulleys you use to do the pushing.  It might be easier to redesign the clamps at the extruder carriage to allow tightening the belts there.<br />
<br />
It seems you've sort of designed the machine in a backwards sequence.  You designed/built the enclosure first, and now struggle to make the corexy mechanism fit and still preserve the desired build plate area.  Maybe in your next printer, you can design the corexy mechanism first to achieve the motion you want, then design and build the enclosure around it.  You may have to give up some of your print area to make a mechanism that fits in the enclosure.  One thing I would recommend is that you try to reduce the number of pulleys that the belts have to wrap around.<br />
<br />
I recently put together a large corexy mechanism driven by cables and designed the motor mounts and corner pulley mounts to fit in the Y axis parallel frame members.  That arrangement lets me tighten the cables simply by sliding the motors or the corner pulley mounts back, then locking them in place using t-nuts that fit in the slots in the frame members.  It would be even easier to apply that technique to a stacked belt driven system, and in fact, I may convert the cable driven system to a belt driven system due to some difficulties I'm having with the cables.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 13 Aug 2018 07:33:51 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831079#msg-831079</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831079#msg-831079</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I actually have not setup the controller yet, its just running on defaults.  I also have not yet installed end stops, I want to finalize the corexy stuff before moving onto anything else.  <br />
<br />
I think this is what I am going to go with for belt tensioning.  This will replace my corner pulley brackets and will be bolted to the 2020 extrusion and to the wood backing.  The tensioner will be adjusted on the back of the printer by adjusting a nut that draws the tensioner pulley in.  This gives me about 1.25" of belt tension before it bottoms out.  I think this is my best option as it doesn't effect print volume, it would have been easier to adjust tension with the steppers but they are mounted remotely to give a little extra room on the x axis.  I have ordered the needed bolts, I wont be able to try it out until they show up, <br />
<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 13 Aug 2018 05:19:58 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831013#msg-831013</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831013#msg-831013</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Belts are designed for minimum stretch.  That's why they have glass or steel reinforcement.  In a power transmission system, if the belt acts like a spring it can be good to absorb shock.  Using spring loaded tensioners is exactly the opposite of what you want in a high precision positioning mechanism like a 3D printer.  The motion is all accelerated, so there's no shock to absorb (except when jerk is set to a high value).  Normally you don't have to readjust tension if construction is solid.  The belts will last for years.<br />
<br />
I wrote <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">a blog post that goes into tensioning belts in a corexy machine</a> (along with other relevant topics).  There are several places you can do it, but you must not mess up the parallel relationship between the belts and the guide rails when you adjust the tension.<br />
<br />
You normally buy belt in whatever length is available and cut it to the size needed with scissors.  You'll have some left over for another project.<br />
<br />
The X axis runs backwards probably because you have told the controller the wrong location of the endstop switch -i.e. you've set it up for left hand rule coordinates.  It doesn't matter how the motor is mounted.  An individual motor can be reversed by reversing the connections to it or by a minor change in the firmware configuration.  In a corexy mechanism, you can't just reverse the connection to change the X direction because both motors work together to define the motion. If you reverse the direction of one motor by flipping the connector over, you'll swap the X and Y motion. <br />
<br />
When you set up a corexy machine, the first thing to understand is right hand rule coordinates.  CAD and slicers use RHR coordinates, so your printer must also use RHR coordinates or prints will come out mirrored.  I recommend you set up the center of the bed as the machine's origin so that all slicers will drop prints at the center of the bed without having to make any custom gcode for each slicer you may use.  The second thing to understand is that you must set the hardware and firmware so that the extruder carriage moves toward the endstop switches when you send a "home" command.  The switches can be put at either end of either axis, just put them where it's convenient for you to either mount them or wire them.  Once the extruder hits the switches, you assign ordinate values at each axis that will put the printer's origin at the center of the bed.  I wrote two blog posts on setting up corexy machines.  Start with <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/08/setting-up-corexy-printers-origin-and.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this one</a>, then read through <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/07/ummd-better-way-to-set-up-origin-and.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this one.</a>  The first post deals with getting things moving in the right directions using RHR coordinates.  The second with putting the printer's origin at the center of the bed.  I used a SmoothieBoard and Duet in the examples, but the concepts are the same and apply to any controller.  I should probably combine the two into a single post...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 12 Aug 2018 10:08:58 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831001#msg-831001</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,831001#msg-831001</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The toothed pulleys I ordered for rerouting the belts showed up and I have made necessary adjustments to accommodate the new routing.  I looked into the steel core belt issue and it appears that I would need something in the range of 30-40 tooth pulleys and that is just not going to work for me.  I am now trying to working on getting some gates belts, the problem I am having is each belt needs to be 3m in length and almost everywhere I look online sells lengths in 2m or 5m sections.  I am going to go with an added tensioner pulley in the corners.  What is the consensus on spring loaded tensioners?  How much do these belts stretch, how often do they need adjusted?  Spring loaded tensioners would be easy for me to implement, but im thinking it might negatively effect the print whenever direction changes.  This seems like this could be corrected by mounting the tensioners in the middle of the back of my printer, but I wouldn't want to over complicate this if the maintenance on the belts is minimal.  <br />
<br />
Something I am going to need to fix is that my X axis moves backwards.  I assume this is due to my motors being mounted upside down.  Is this something that can be corrected easily with the duet controller?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 12 Aug 2018 08:58:29 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830527#msg-830527</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830527#msg-830527</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You know, I started writing this big long drawn out reponse, read back up a little bit further and saw it's all been said previously. <br />
<br />
Oh well... <br />
<br />
You're on the right track, I could probably offer a few critiques, but I'm hardly an expert and am still tinkering with my own custom corexy.<br />
<br />
Best of luck!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>obelisk79</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 07 Aug 2018 13:12:09 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830489#msg-830489</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830489#msg-830489</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Unfortunately, the chinese steel core cable makers don't ever seem to specify the minimum bending radius, and I have never found any documents Gates or DSP/SI or other makers that specify it because they don't seem to make steel core GT2 belts.  In theory you could calculate it based on the number of wires in each little "rope" in the core and their diameters, but there are a lot of factors to consider and you'd only be guessing at most of them since there are no specs.  Glass or kevlar core belts are much more flexible and provide all the strength needed for the XY mechanism.<br />
<br />
About the crossing belts...  timing belts are intended to operate on pulleys with parallel axles with the belt running perpendicular to the axles.  If you change the angle of the belt on the pulleys by changing the vertical displacement of the pulleys, you will create wear on the belt and the pulleys if they have teeth.  You're loading the outer core elements of the belt much higher than the central core elements which will lead to rapid failure of the belt.  There is absolutely no reason whatsoever to cross the belts in a stacked belt corexy mechanism.  Tensioning the belts can be done by moving the motor mounts or corner pulleys in the Y direction, applying idlers at the outer segments or the back segments, or at the attachment to the extruder carriage (by pulling the belt in the X direction).  You can't tension the belts individually- changing tension on one will change the tension in the other, no matter where or how you adjust the tension, even if you just move one motor mount, or pull on one belt at the extruder carriage.<br />
<br />
So many people look at the original coreXY implementation and see crossing belts and think, "my belts better cross":<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
But if you look closely at the other photos, you can see that the belts in the original mechanism are stacked.  <br />
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<br />
<br />
While the belts cross paths at the back of the mechanism, they don't cross in the XZ plane.  Each belt stays either above or below the other at the motors, corner pulleys, and extruder attachment points.  Look at the pulleys on the motors and the pulleys at the ends of the X axis, and the attachment points on the carriage.  Two different Z levels, and each belt stays on its own Z level as it must.<br />
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<br />
<br />
The only layout that would require the belts to touch each other at the back of the mechanism is if the belts were both on the same Z level at the motors, the corner pulleys, the Y axis pulleys, and at the carriage attachments.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 07 Aug 2018 07:54:52 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830474#msg-830474</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830474#msg-830474</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thank you both for the feedback on my belts.  What size pulleys are required if I run the steel core belts?  Do I have a more suitable option for my application?  The pictures were taken before I tensioned my belts, I have them fairly snug now.  I have the belts crossover in the back due to how I thought I would try to deal with belt tensioning.  If it turns out to be a problem I just need to redesign the carriage, the brackets for the pulleys can already accommodate the change.  I am tensioning the belts by loosening the upper belt clamp on the back of my carriage and drawing the belt through, I am able to pull just one at a time without too much hassle.  I kept adjusting each side until they rung the same when plucked.  I measured afterwards and the movement on the y axis is nice and even, the x axis sits square with the y.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 07 Aug 2018 03:13:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830458#msg-830458</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830458#msg-830458</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I second that.  Steel core belts need big pulleys or the frequent bending back and forth on the pulleys will break the steel wires inside the belts.  That will cause them to stretch wherever the wires are broken and cause all sorts of weird print problems.  <br />
<br />
It also looks like there isn't nearly enough tension on the belts.  If you don't pull them tight, the inertia of the mechanism will, briefly, every time motion starts/stops changes direction, like a big spring.  You'll get exactly the opposite of what you wanted when you bought steel core belts.<br />
<br />
I noticed that you crossed the belts at the back of the machine, but the belts appear to be stacked.  In a stacked belt setup, there's no need to cross the belts, and it implies that each belt is starting at one level and ending up at another.  Belts don't work well that way.  The axles of the pulleys should all be parallel and the belt should run perpendicular to the axles.  The only time the belts would have to cross is when they both occupy the same Z level.  <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">I wrote a blog post on corexy set up</a> that might have some useful info for you.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2018 18:29:31 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830398#msg-830398</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830398#msg-830398</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Looks like you are using steel core belts?<br />
They need bigger pulley diameters or they brake easily.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>o_lampe</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2018 05:14:03 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830385#msg-830385</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,830385#msg-830385</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have started poking at my printer again and have made some fairly decent progress.  I have it assembled far enough to have a functional corexy mechanism and the hot end situation is almost complete.  I have verified a print area of 630x500mm, still need to work on the z axis.  My plate of aluminum is only 600mm wide so I am thinking about dedicating that extra 30mm for purging and a brush or something to swipe the nozle across to clean buildup.  I was worried about how loud the cheap mgn12 bearings and 16 pulleys would be, but its far quieter than my prusa.  I took the advice about boxing in the pulleys into consideration, but my longest bolts were not long enough so I made a couple test pieces to see how much flex I had on the pulleys going to the gantry.  I pulled pretty hard, harder than I imagine ill need the belt tension and saw no flex.  Every final revision for my parts are printed with carbon fiber PETG and I am quite happy with how that material prints as well as the added stiffness compared to normal PETG.  The hotend is a modified NF TC-01 off of ebay with a volcano block.  I really liked how it looked but couldn't find anything online about it, for 30 bucks I took the gamble.  I am going to run pretty high temps and it appears to have a teflon liner until about the middle of the block, I am hoping to avoid problems by increasing the cooling.  I took a saw and cut into the block to add surface area to the cooling fins, followed by mounting a 6028 blower fan in place of the 30mm fan.  I am also going to try running a direct drive and a bowden setup with my dual extrusion.  I don't know if I will keep it, but I had the titan extruder laying around.  Part cooling will be accomplished by a berd-air setup, whenever it shows up.<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2018 03:58:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,821994#msg-821994</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,821994#msg-821994</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Oh the white pieces are temporary, they were made to help test fit everything.  All of it is actually temporary, I have some carbon fiber PETG filament I specifically bought to make the final pieces after I know that it works.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 12 May 2018 20:53:04 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,821936#msg-821936</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,821936#msg-821936</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think you're going to find that when you tension the XY belts, the plastic block that has the pulley standing up like a fence post on the Y axis bearing block, and the skinny little M3 screw that is the pulley's axle, are going to flex inward.  You might want to try to redesign that plate to support that pulley from top and bottom.  It will require longer screws to hold the plastic mount on the bearing block but will be much less likely to flex.  It's the same concept as the blocky motor mount.  Start with a solid block and carve away only as much as needed to allow the parts to be assembled and the belts to pass through.  The same idea applies to the other pulleys in the system, too.<br />
<br />
And yes, you will definitely need some means of adjusting belt tension.  In the XY stage the belts should be at about the same tension.  After you tension the first belt, pulling the second belt tight increases tension in the first belt, so don't set the first belt too tight initially.  If the tensions are not close to each other, the X axis will tend to shift so it is not orthogonal to the Y axis, so after you tension the belts, you will want to verify the orthogonality of the X and Y axes.  You may be able to do that using a machinist's or carpenter's square, or you can just print a square and measure the diagonals, which should match if the X and Y axes are orthogonal.  If they are not orthogonal, you'll adjust one of the belt tensions a bit to bring them back to square.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 12 May 2018 08:36:32 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,821924#msg-821924</guid>
            <title>Re: Making a large CoreXY printer</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,817215,821924#msg-821924</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Small update.  I have taken a break from the printer for a little over a month and have come back with a little progress. I really liked the idea of relocating the steppers which should keep them cooler and in doing so I actually can gain a little extra print volume.  This also makes mounting the pulleys directly to the linear bearings possible which also makes easier for me to get the belts routed nice and square.  I need to buy more pulleys and design proper corner brackets for the back side.  I am debating adding some complexity to the brackets in the back to wrap the belts around the corner of my 2020 extrusion to give me a little more clearance for the carriage.  I think more importantly this will allow me to implement some sort of tensioner along the back side that I will probably need with these long belts.<br />
<br />
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            <dc:creator>DickH</dc:creator>
            <category>CoreXY Machines</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 12 May 2018 04:52:30 -0400</pubDate>
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