Reprap Forum - CoreXY Machines

Forum totally dead? (11 replies)

lynwood — Tue, 22 Jul 2025 09:33:59 -0400

Is there a new forum where everyone is hiding out, these days? I thought, based on the amount of information I found in my searches, that THIS was the place with all the knowledgable people. Now, I'm wondering if there is a new, different forum where everyone is gathering? 86 people viewed my post, and not one reply? That just makes it seem like the people with the answers are no longer coming around here?

If anyone knows of another forum where I might seek some help, it would be much appreciated. :-)

Makerbot "conversion" (2 replies)

lynwood — Tue, 15 Jul 2025 14:59:32 -0400

I have an old Makerbot Replicator 5th gen that I've been working on converting to off the shelf parts and software. I've "installed" a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 board with Klipper firmware. I'm using, for now, Sensorless_Homing. I've had some successes, and a lot of failures with setting up the Printer.cfg file. The movement settings are giving me an absolute headache. It's fun when you figure something out that has been eluding you, but this is just starting to get annoying. :-)
I've searched and researched and read all sorts of articles, looking for the answers. Some of the past threads on here have been very helpful, and very entertaining when some of the discussions become a bit spirited. :-)
Most of the articles and threads make clarification on just about everything...EXCEPT....what they are considering the FRONT and what they are considering the BACK in their examples.
I'm working on mine from "behind" the unit so that I can observe the motors and their responses to firmware changes. When I home this unit the gantry travels towards me and to the left, and of course hits its stops, and ceases movement. However, it doesn't "complete" the homing cycle, if thats the right way to say it, because the motors are still engaged...ie..wont budge. Also, the controls are "ghosted" indicating the operation is still ongoing.

I thought I had discovered the missing key to my question when I read a blog that explained the bed layout, and that my homing should actually be set to something like 150,150, rather than 0,0, because 0,0 is in the middle of the bed. So, I tried that but was unable to get the config setup properly.

Any assistance will be appreciated. I have to cut this short...lol...I know...not too short, but I'm typing in a thunderstorm and fear losing all I've typed so far....lol :-)

Lynwood

core idex feedback (4 replies)

mlaustin66 — Fri, 08 Nov 2024 12:33:24 -0500

Hi All,

I've was inspired by digital dentist's UMMD build. I used a lot of the design methodology to build a core idex printer. I'm about 85% finished in fusion 360 and wanted some feedback. I'll be using Duet 3 in the XYU configuration. This is a 400x400x500 build. Here are some specific questions.

1. How difficult is it going to be to keep both hotends aligned to the heatbed assuming all the holes and alignments are accurate and exact?
2. I have belt cutouts in the hotend assemblies to manage the extra movement. There are 3 pulleys to keep it all aligned. Any issues with this?
3. I had to account for extra space on either side of the heatbed on the x axis. This way I can make use of the full 400mm bet assuming one hotend is inactive. Therefor the 40x40 tslot for the bed support won't reach either end. I can use 7x series aluminum corners brackets along with a flat milled 7x series aluminum support to go under the heatbed. Any issues with this?

I'd love feedback so I can get this started. Thanks in advance.

rhino worm gear (5 replies)

printman — Sun, 27 Oct 2024 09:45:52 -0400

I wanted to mount a rhino worm gear to a 20x20 profile and found that the shaft was a bit crooked. It is not parallel to the profile. See the picture, the shaft is off more than 1mm on one side.

The Rhino box should have all sides perpendicular and the shaft does not throw at all when turning, there is no play.
It seems the shaft mount (yellow wheel) may be bent slightly. Is this ever possible or I'm wrong?

Is there any way to fix this? There are some screws, but I don't know if I can loosen them. I unscrewed the motor, but it wouldn't come out. I think the transmission worm was holding it in.

@the_digital_dentist: Still using the rhino on the z-axis, have you had any problems with it?

pen plotter A1 size 2020 aluminum frame based (no replies)

nagamani hegde — Mon, 02 Sep 2024 23:07:58 -0400

hello i want to build A1 sized pen plotter soo badly..
there are lost of best plotters on YouTube
but no tutorial or stl fille
can anyone help to build A1 size plotter
or suggest tutorial link or stl file

plz

QIDI X-MAX3 issues after update (1 reply)

knofel — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 12:51:30 -0400

Hello everyone,

this forum was recommended to me and I hope that i hit the right place to throw in my issue.

short backstory:
My company (IT & software development) got 2 3d printers for a relatively small project and since I'm the only one who ever worked with 3d printing, modelling and such (and therefore I'll be the one to maintain it) I was gifted one of them.
So I got my new toy home, plugged it in and did a few test prints.

But then I came across the web interface and there was a friendly little button showing me a notification that updates were available.
Of course I know about the importance of updates concerning security, optimization and qol so I hit the update button, but what's that? An error message pops up that I can not update?
Thankfully I have ssh available so I connect and run some apt update after fixing the repository and suddenly nothing works anymore because my klipper (EMMC) is now v0.12.0 and it's supposed to be "v0.10.0-530-g3387a9c2-dirty".

And that's where my journey begins... or rather ended...

current state:
The current firmware version for the X-MAX3 is 4.3.13 and after some time i got an EMMC adapter delivered and rolled back everything to the exact image that's currently running in the company yet neither with the "stock" image nor with the publicly available official "xindi-20230309" are working and whatever I try it keeps telling me "error" (yeah, thanks for the info...), but fluidd tells me something more specific:
"Internal error during connect: can't convert negative number to unsigned"

And the klippy.log says:

mcu 'mcu': Starting serial connect
Loaded MCU 'mcu' 124 commands (v0.12.0-175-g7b490f3e / gcc: (15:12.2.rel1-1) 12.2.1 20221205 binutils: (2.40-2+18+b1) 2.40)
MCU 'mcu' config: BUS_PINS_i2c1=PB6,PB7 BUS_PINS_i2c3=PA8,PC9 BUS_PINS_i2c2=PB10,PB11 BUS_PINS_spi3a=PC11,PC12,PC10 BUS_PINS_spi2a=PC2,PC3,PB10 SERIAL_BAUD=250000 RESERVE_PINS_crystal=PH0,PH1 CLOCK_FREQ=84000000 BUS_PINS_spi1a=PB4,PB5,PB3 STATS_SUMSQ_BASE=256 RECEIVE_WINDOW=192 BUS_PINS_sdio=PC12,PD2,PC8,PC9,PC10,PC11 STEPPER_BOTH_EDGE=1 BUS_PINS_i2c1a=PB8,PB9 ADC_MAX=4095 BUS_PINS_spi4=PE13,PE14,PE12 BUS_PINS_spi3=PB4,PB5,PB3 BUS_PINS_spi2=PB14,PB15,PB13 BUS_PINS_spi1=PA6,PA7,PA5 PWM_MAX=255 MCU=stm32f401xc RESERVE_PINS_serial=PA10,PA9
mcu 'MKS_THR': Starting serial connect
Loaded MCU 'MKS_THR' 112 commands (v0.12.0-175-g7b490f3e / gcc: (15:12.2.rel1-1) 12.2.1 20221205 binutils: (2.40-2+18+b1) 2.40)
MCU 'MKS_THR' config: BUS_PINS_spi0a=gpio0,gpio3,gpio2 BUS_PINS_i2c0h=gpio28,gpio29 BUS_PINS_spi0c=gpio16,gpio19,gpio18 BUS_PINS_spi0d=gpio20,gpio23,gpio22 BUS_PINS_i2c0b=gpio4,gpio5 BUS_PINS_i2c0c=gpio8,gpio9 BUS_PINS_i2c1c=gpio10,gpio11 BUS_PINS_i2c0a=gpio0,gpio1 BUS_PINS_i2c0f=gpio20,gpio21 BUS_PINS_i2c0g=gpio24,gpio25 BUS_PINS_i2c1g=gpio26,gpio27 BUS_PINS_i2c0e=gpio16,gpio17 BUS_PINS_i2c0d=gpio12,gpio13 BUS_PINS_i2c1e=gpio18,gpio19 BUS_PINS_i2c1f=gpio22,gpio23 BUS_PINS_spi1c=gpio24,gpio27,gpio26 BUS_PINS_spi1b=gpio12,gpio15,gpio14 BUS_PINS_spi1a=gpio8,gpio11,gpio10 STATS_SUMSQ_BASE=256 BUS_PINS_i2c1d=gpio14,gpio15 BUS_PINS_i2c1b=gpio6,gpio7 STEPPER_BOTH_EDGE=1 BUS_PINS_i2c1a=gpio2,gpio3 ADC_MAX=4095 PWM_MAX=255 BUS_PINS_spi0b=gpio4,gpio7,gpio6 MCU=rp2040 CLOCK_FREQ=12000000
Unhandled exception during connect
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "/home/mks/klipper/klippy/klippy.py", line 180, in _connect
    cb()
  File "/home/mks/klipper/klippy/mcu.py", line 729, in _connect
    self._send_config(None)
  File "/home/mks/klipper/klippy/mcu.py", line 659, in _send_config
    cb()
  File "/home/mks/klipper/klippy/mcu.py", line 76, in _build_config
    state_tag), ffi_lib.free)
OverflowError: can't convert negative number to unsigned
webhooks client 281473212563752: New connection
webhooks client 281473212563752: Client info {'program': 'Moonraker', 'version': 'v0.7.1-609-gbdd0222-dirty'}
Internal error during connect: can't convert negative number to unsigned

Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART"
command to reload the config and restart the host software.
Printer is halted

With my fixing attempts I did quite some stuff following different guides, but most of them were made for not exactly this model and I can't shake the feeling that I flashed my printhead at some point.

By the knowledge I've gathered so far you should NOT update a QIDI printer (a lesson that came to late for me), but it seems that the printhead now is running a wrong version.
So my approach would be reflashing that one, but for that I don't know what to configure in "make menuconfig" or how to actually get it onto the printhead.

I'm trying to fix this thing for almost a month now and also just ordered a replacement printhead controller board (if nothing helps, that might).
It seems that I have a newer version of the X-MAX3 with the X-6 board (not X-4) and a A-4 printhead board

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Knofel

Lerdge x y, TMC2208 (2 replies)

ManuBGeek — Thu, 15 Feb 2024 08:54:14 -0500

Bonjour,
j'ai une imprimante DIY en Core XY avec une carte lerdge K.
Je viens de changer les pilote TMC 2208 des moteurs X et Y et voila mon problème :
quand je vais dans le panneau de contrôle des mouvements, X+ et Y+ se déplace correctement, mais
X- donne Y+ et Y- donne X+

Pourriez-vous m'aider.?

D'avance Merci

I have a Core XY DIY printer with a lerdge K card.
I have just changed the TMC 2208 drivers for the X and Y motors and here is my problem:
when I go to the move control panel, X+ and Y+ move correctly, but
X- gives Y+ and Y- gives X+.

Could you help me?

Thanks in advance

Manu

What is the cause of magical random ripples on the Core XY printer? (11 replies)

pasha4ur — Tue, 12 Nov 2024 14:44:12 -0500

Hello

Help me please. I have voron trident like printer. My 1st custom assembly.

CONFIGURATION

• 4040 (v-slot) and 2040 (t-slot) frame with corners and corner outer plates;
• RDBB 500mm rails (12mm on X axis);
• powge pulleys and idlers, 6mm gates belts (tensioned at about115-120 Hz), fushi bearings;
• 8 mm aluminum print bed 355х355 + 4 mm glass mirror + 220 v heater;
• 8 mm lead screws with 4 lead and antiwobbling solution like wobbleX + couplers sit on thrust bearings;
• Bigtreetech Octopus Pro STM32F429 (CAN bridge mode) + tmc2209 (StealthChop is turned off) + Bigtreetech EBB36 printhead board;
• cloudray 17cs04a-170e motors with 0.73 A run current in Klipper config;
• Meanwell 350 24 V;
• Klicky probe;
• dragon burner printhead with sherpa mini extruder and LDO 36STH20 motor;
• Volcano aluminum hot end with short e3d v6 heatsink (dragon mount). Trianglelab;
• holder for cable [www.printables.com] ;
• Mobil grease Mobilux EP2 for rails and screws;
• 2 800 acceleration in klipper.

Video of the printer.: https://youtu.be/hUnr9MdLMdA

PROBLEM

I have problem – random ripple on Y axis. In vase or regular print mode the ripple changes (size, angle, direction, depth) on different heights, sides and places of print bed. I printed 20 small objects (boxes) in serial mode and all objects had different ripple or some didn’t have it.

At speeds about 100 mm/s the Н axis often becomes smooth without ripples even from belts like on the X axis. But at this speed the corners and details are already slightly smoothed out.

I need to print some plastic at low speed, so you need to fix the problem.

On Orca Slicer VFA test from 30 to 140 mm/s (+5) the ripple changes even at the same speed segment.

The ripples seem to be more pronounced when the head moves backward on the Y axis.

At the moment, the printer has worked for about 400 hours. Over time, the defect became more noticeable.

X axis

ibb.co

Y axis

ibb.co

But with every print and on every object the ripples are different. Ripples can only occur within a certain band in height or at intervals in height. Sometimes the ripples on 1 wall change to the opposite angle several times.

Video:

https://youtu.be/-ltobVDS04o

https://youtu.be/GEQGG2D71A8

I saw some amount of such ripple on some prints of users with other vorons with stock heavy print head.

I'VE ALREADY DONE

1. Changed printed Sherpa mini extruder to Fysetc CNC version with helical gears;

1_03_f69c49b4-70c6-4365-909c-02ee529727e7_480x480.jpg

2. Changed hot end heatsink to Trianglelab. It has better heat break fixation;
3. Changed printhead fans to GDStime with ball bearings;
4. Changed tooth pulleys (they eat belts on Voron) to double flanged fushi bearings ;
5. Changed printhead to more stable 8th version of Dragon Burner with custom very strong carriage. My custom desing;
6. Installed custom printhead board mount that is held by 4 screws to the carriage and extruder;
7. Installed 1mm M5 shims between all pulleys made from flanged fushi bearings. Voron eats belts in these places;
8. Changed M5x40 screws, M5 nuts and m3x8 screws (MGN12 mount) to titanium version;
9. Reduced the number of bolts and nuts for the X rails, using fastenings through 2 holes;
10. Changed cloudray 17cs04a-170e motors to 60 mm version (17CS07A-180E). And changed back;
11. Disassembled and cleaned X rails.

Screenshot-2024-02-01-041338.jpg

It did not help. Or I don't see any noticeable changes.

Input shaping results (only the hot end fan is on):

shaper-calibrate-x.png

shaper-calibrate-y.png

WHAT I'M GOING TO DO NEXT

I’ve already received parts

1. Change all printed parts in the XY gantry and printhead from ABS+ to ABS+ with 10% glass fiber;
2. Decoupler mod (without rubber motor mounts) https://www.printables.com/model/430168-voron-trident-stepper-decoupler
3. Active cooling and heatsinks for XY motors. They are only 50*;
4. Change XY motor drivers from tmc2209 to tmc2240;
5. Fix top parts of 2 M5 XY screws with pulleys which don’t use nuts;
6. Perhaps I'll replace the cable holder with a short flexible chain.

The carriage on the rail on the X-axis has a slight play if you apply force. It's very difficult for me to capture it on camera. I don't know if it should be like this. When removing and disassembling the rails by hand, no play is felt.

HIWIN rail cost a lot (like used ender 3 on ebay for 1 mgn12 500 mm). It’s hard times in Ukraine and I’m not sure that Ukrainian sellers sell original HIWIN. But I don't want to play the game of matching balls for Chinese rails.

In the future (to assemble the IDEX) I will buy expensive rails with 2 carriages (it is difficult to find 2 identical carriages for Chinese rails). But I wouldn't want to spend money on it now.

P.S. 1 man solved it by replacing rails https://www.facebook.com/groups/voroncorexy/permalink/1800631243698767/

After replacing the printed parts I will try to loosen the Y-axis rails, move the X-axis and fix the rails again.

Lid for Rat Rig V-Core-3 300 x 300 (no replies)

NovaHuta — Thu, 28 Dec 2023 20:31:52 -0500

I've uploaded a cut down version of the 500 x 500 Lid for the 300 x 300 size machine.

On Printables

[attachment 120708 ScreenShot2023-12-28at8.31.13PM.png]

TronXY X5SA 330x330 bed thicker? Impossible to tram with 6 set screws! (2 replies)

dlc60 — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 13:26:38 -0500

Hey all,

I still use the TronXY firmware on my X5SA 330x330 CoreXY. I have NEVER been able to tram that bed with 6 set screws. So, I pulled half of them off to be able to get a real plane instead of a Ruffles potato chip surface.

Well, THAT didn't work well. When heated the 3mm bed warps up .3mm in the center compared to any of the tram screw locations. OK, so that explains the two middle set screws in an otherwise 4 adjustment bed; they are there to pull the middle down!

However, that still doesn't work very well - I am not ready to pull the controller and put a RepRrap controller on it, ditch the nifty touchscreen and all.
Yet.
So, how thick will I need to make this bed to keep it flat? Shockingly, my 3mm glass top for the bed deals with this warp without breaking.

Am I going to need to find a 330x330x6mm heat bed to get this to some reasonably controllable surface? I like having the large build volume, but I can rarely get a decent build from it. I realize that I am going down the "Cost Sunk" fallacy road here and I should just sell d*** thing for parts, but I'm stubborn and think that there HAS to be a way to make this a decent machine!

be well,
DLC

My printed circles are oval (2 replies)

Vido — Fri, 17 Nov 2023 08:02:23 -0500

Hi guys I have HyperCube and when I try to print circle my printer print oval shape not circle

[attachment 120629 circle.jpg]

Any idea ?

CoreXY X axis wobble (5 replies)

the_digital_dentist — Sat, 25 Nov 2023 19:00:30 -0500

A while back I noticed the X axis wobbling a bit in my corexy sand table as the magnet carriage moved back and forth on the X axis (Y position fixed). I decided to check my printer, UMMD, to see if it had the same issue. It did. The data indicated that the period of the wobble was 40 mm which corresponded to the distance the carriage moves with each rev of the drive pulleys (20 teeth, 2mm pitch). I surmised that the problem was probably a poorly drilled drive pulley.

I just got some Gates pulleys from Filastruder to replace the Ali-Express specials that were originally used in the printer and the X axis wobble is gone. The Gates pulleys fit the motor shafts closely- I had to smooth one of the shafts with fine sandpaper to get the pulley to fit (some lock-tite or galling was interfering). The wobble problem was definitely due to a poorly drilled pulley. The Gates pulleys cost about $4.50 each vs the $2 each for the Ali-express crap. I'd say it's well worth the extra couple $ to use well-made pulleys.

The Gates pulleys from Filastruder are not marked in any way and the packaging is plain, so you'd never know they are Gates pulleys, but Filastruder is an officially licensed Gates distributor.

I wrote a blog post on the original problem and will be updating it with new data shortly. See: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Extra pulleys on a corexy (2 replies)

RCalin — Tue, 24 Jan 2023 09:58:47 -0500

Hi, i am building a corexy printer and i want to ask if it is ok to add pulleys to the corexy system. I added the nr1 and nr2 pulleys to gain some space on the x axis. Is that ok? What can go bad with this? The pulleys are one on top of eachother and normally the belt should go from number3 to the idler, i added 1 and 2.. Thanks.

Belt connection on toolhead (1 reply)

reaprap — Mon, 23 Jan 2023 15:01:26 -0500

That guy here says it's better to have them all on one side:
[www.printables.com]

Yet, a lot of printers like the Ratrig V-core or VzBot have the belts arranged on the opposite sides on the toolhead.

I'm wondering what are the differences?

GA3D M2 (no replies)

Alvon3DprinTor — Thu, 29 Dec 2022 16:12:14 -0500

Hello to all,

I just wanted to present also my little project GA3D M2 in the CoreXY section.

Yes it is a CoreXY, but a crossed CoreXY.

I have upgraded to version 2 of the machine, these features are :

- Crossed CoreXY kinematics
- MGN12H ball rails
- small and handy manual tool changer
- mixed electronics with Ramp1.4 and Raspberry pi, connectors always accessible for easy configuration change

I am now very satisfied with its operation. The next months, I will develop different tools, configurations

To summarize the project, I would now say that it is a kind of Opensource CNC Swiss Army Knife

here are some views, pictures, video

I published the source files on github under OHL-w license for those who are interested

800px-GA3D_M2.jpeg

Youtube CAD / reality

Timelapse 3Dprinting

Github GA3D M2

Circles not round (no replies)

Tryptamine — Tue, 20 Dec 2022 16:47:53 -0500

I have a coreXY printer (Hypercube Evolution)

Today I found out, that shapes prints are distorted:
A circle is not a circle, but wider along the Y-axis than along the X-axis, by half a millimetre.
Where could this problem come from?
The belts are tensioned. The angles are 90deg. Both motors for XY movement are identical and have the same steps/mm set in config.

I am running out of ideas.

IfwtOB6.jpeg

sgM5GPb.jpeg

Titan Aero E3D V6 mount and duct for Core XY (4 replies)

NovaHuta — Tue, 20 Dec 2022 09:48:05 -0500

I just refuse to let this head die, it has served me so well.

Here is a new head for Core XY printers. It uses axial fans for cooling.

Printables - Titan Aero E3DV6

[attachment 119944 ScreenShot2022-12-13at9.06.44AM.png]

A new design - CoreXrY (10 replies)

eadz — Sun, 16 Jul 2023 06:19:10 -0400

Hi,

I think I've come up with a new take on CoreXY. I call it CoreXrY for the rotational movement between the X and the Y belts.

I have details up here - [eaden.net] ( more to come )

But briefly, it uses 2 parallel closed belts for the A and B motors. This means less overall belt length. I have a working model.

corexry.png

Interested in peoples thoughts about the pros/cons.

Reliable core XY printer (3 replies)

jooch — Sun, 06 Nov 2022 12:40:16 -0500

Hi everyone,

After having bought and used plenty of Cartesian printers, i came to a conclusion that 3D printing is a long way from a consumer level. Not just in terms of being able to get the machine to do anything but more so on the mechanical aspect of it.

I find that a lot of design choices in printers are not suitable for low maintenance operation. There's always something to adjust, oil up or look after.
Not that i am that bothered with all that myself, but i do wonder what kind of machine could provide trouble free operation for at least a month without maintenance?

With core XY machines slowly taking over, i want to try one, but instead of picking the fastest and most feature rich I'd like a machine that is dependable.
Right now there are so many variations and designs, all seem valid. What feature would you guys mark as essential for a reliable core XY machine?

To me V groove bearings seem suspect of maintenance. Also belt tension seems a source of problems, anyone have experience with good designs?

Help get my new printer working (no replies)

jaykluth — Mon, 24 Oct 2022 19:42:04 -0400

I have a nice new TwoTrees Sapphire SP 5, and I added a 3D Touch ABL sensor. The printer basic functions work fine, but I can't seem to get automatic bed leveling to work. Using M280 commands the 3D Touch will extend, stow, and selftest, but if I extend the probe and do a M119 command the probe retracts and the state shows "Triggered". Using the MKS firmware and the probe plugged into Z_Max, when I try to run autolevel it moves to position 1 +10mm in Z, extends the probe, and then fails to raise the bed to trigger the probe. It then moves to position 2 but another 10mm lower and does the same thing. I have tried Marlin 2.0.9.3, 2.1.1, and 2.1.x bugfix with the probe pluggged into PE6 (material detect 2). With Marlin, it moves to the first probe position plus 10mm down, cycles the probe down and up several times and then says "Probe Failed." I am not sure if its a hardware issue or firmware issue, and I'm running out of ideas. I've attached the most recent Marlin 2.1.x Bugfix Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, and the MKS robin_nano35_cfg.txt files. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have been fighting this for 2 weeks.

Life span of plastic parts? (15 replies)

aamcle — Thu, 29 Sep 2022 09:18:06 -0400

I'm interested in building a printer and in CoreXY motion systems.

In most published builds for example the Hypercube Evo the motors and pullies are mounted in printed parts. The parts are under load from the belts and shock loads from rapid direction changes.

If these parts are printed from ABS or other ridged filament do they wear out or do they need continual adjustment?

Othere than ABS what filaments are suitable and are the carbon fibre blends better?

Thanks aamcle

Ender 6 COREXY issue in Marlin (5 replies)

dragon800 — Mon, 29 Aug 2022 12:49:46 -0400

I have set up my ender 6 with a BTT E3 RRF V1.1 board and TFT 3.0 screen and I got most everything figured out but the Y axis moves inverted. I tried switching the plugs around i cant flip the plugs backwards like some suggest because they are one way plugs, and I tried every possible combination for motor direction in Marlin software but the closest I can get is the Y axis inverted. It is confusing because both motors spin to either go straight in X or Y so it's not as simple as just inverting the Y axis. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can add my config files if that would be of any use.

Verticle belt movements on idlers (4 replies)

AgentNoise — Wed, 24 Aug 2022 06:40:58 -0400

I am beating my head against the wall trying to figure this issue out. My A and B belts are moving up and down on the idlers when I move the x carriage left and right. When I move the carriage to the left the A belt (top) moves up on the idler, the B belt (bottom) moves down on the idler. It reverses when moving the carriage to the right. This also happens when moving the carriage back and forth. The A belt moves down when moving forward and the B belt moves up when moving forward.

I am using 9mm gt2 belts, the idlers have an 11mm body within the flanges. The design should have the belts riding in the middle but they move all they way up and down, so 1 full mm of travel. I have double, triple, quadruple checked the idler heights and they are all on the same plane, well within 1mm of tolerance.

Is there some other flaw that could cause this? I can attach a video or images of the build if needed.

Design questions (3 replies)

printman — Tue, 09 Aug 2022 15:45:33 -0400

Hi!

I've seen a couple of corexy 3d printers and was wondering what the best design of axes is in terms of the resulting print quality.

1. Z axis design - are the belts used on UMMD better than ball screws? I can see the advantage of the Z axis design with 3 ball screws, because the bed can be auto-leveled, but aren't the belts betters in the resulting print quality? Can ball screws be the same or better quality than the belt solution?

a) 2 belts - like on UMMD - [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
b) 3 screws - kinematically coupled bed - [www.youtube.com]

2. Floating X axis - is it really needed to have the X axis floating. I mean have it mounted with a bearing block on one end because of thermal expansion. I guess 99% of printers have the x axis firmly attached and it seems it doesn't cause problems.
UMMD x-axis: [4.bp.blogspot.com]

Bondtech BMG extruder and Rapido HF hotend (no replies)

msjfb102 — Wed, 13 Jul 2022 10:09:29 -0400

I am replacing my current E3d-V6 hotend with a Phaetus Rapido Plus, in a Bondtech BMG extruder.

I am wondering if a short PTFE tube is required to mate the Rapido with the BMG, as it is done with the E3D-V6.

Has anyone had any experience with this ?
Thanks,

Francois

Print spool holder for 30x30 T-Slot frames (2 replies)

NovaHuta — Wed, 13 Jul 2022 18:55:57 -0400

[attachment 119555 img_3451-2.jpg]

Here is a holder for keeping your spools within the chamber. Fits nicely on a Rat Rig Core V3, probably others to but check clearances!

Printable Link

corexy homing endstop help needed (1 reply)

timls3674 — Sun, 22 May 2022 08:01:23 -0400

hello , i am working on getting my Tronxy x5sa setup with a BTT skr 2 board with BLtouch and i cannot get the homing xy and endstops figured out it is driving me crazy ! i have edited many times my config files involving the endstops, inverted directions, and cannot get it to home correctly it is a mess i was wonder if someone could review my config H setting and help me get them corrected

Thanks
Tim

6-Stepper Board - Ideal for CoreXY (no replies)

NovaHuta — Sat, 23 Apr 2022 08:32:28 -0400

Hi all, I've made this board for my own CoreXY (A RatRig Core V3 variant) printer. Got some extras to sell if anybody is interested. You see the schematic here (the board I ship will be tested and bodged to work as the 0.2 Version shown here unless you want otherwise). I'm shipping from Canada for 50$ CAD. You must provide your own drivers and Pico.

Schematic:
[attachment 119395 PrintPiPico0.27.56.17AM.pdf]

Board:
[attachment 119396 PickSixV01.jpg]

GitHub

DIY CoreXY (18 replies)

Roberts_Clif — Mon, 23 Jan 2023 07:36:29 -0500

Hello to all

I have three Cartesian style 3D Printers.
But now I am looking a building a CoreXY style 3D Printer.
Would like information on DIY builds that would meet at least 300mm cubed, a nice good fast 3D Printer that will put my Cartesian style 3D Printers on E-Bay.
Was thinking of building a simple inexpensive CoreXY printer that could be upgraded to make a great 3D Printer, One that would replace all three of my Hictops.

Would like a DIY 3D Printer that could be upgraded from a simple inexpensive starter CoreXY to something that would In several inexpensive steps could equal a Voron V2.4 CoreXY

If you have a suggestion please post

X and Y axis in strange behavior (1 reply)

ThePlasmaAlchemist — Mon, 14 Mar 2022 23:48:42 -0400

Hello guys , i'am new to Ramps 1.4 and i'am trying to build a Core XY 3d printer , the mechanics are fine but i got a lot of problems with ramps , i burned the first arduino to have an ideia lol, anyway , my problem it's the complete obnoxious behavior that the X and Y axis have , they were not working , i changed the ramps module and the drivers , the Y axis worked but stopped at the middle saying "endstop hit" and when I clicked on pronterface to move the X axis the Y moved , now they were not working again . I checked all the connections , they are right and they are not shorted , IDK if that was a mistake I made on Marlin 1.1 or something . By the way the fullgraphic controller is also not working and I have no ideia why , the marlin is correct by what I searched.
(Sorry by the fuzz in the pics but I didn't have another place to put it.)
Thanks for all the attention beforehand !!
Good work for everybody.