I'm new here so apols if this question has already been answered somewhere... I am building the idler bracket (from a bits from bytes full mechanical gold kit) and i've only been able to find this documentation bitsfrombytes.com/pdfs/LaserCutMk3/3DXIdlerBracket.pdf I've seen a few other parts that have PDF files with each parts listed (and the steps how to build each part). Can someone point me to this area on the site? My issue is that I am using the above 3D drawing but am unsure about the M8 Washer and the M8 Spring Washer. Also, the pulley doesn't seem to want to go on my screw - any clues as to how to slightly widen the hole without cracking the acrylic would be much appreciated. Cheers. J https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18539#msg-18539 Sat, 07 Mar 2026 17:06:27 -0500 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21419#msg-21419 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21419#msg-21419 but doesn't it make sense to buy more ABS and more HDPE (or LDPE) instead of buying some ABS some HDPE some LDPE some PP and some whatever?
You'll know better, but I think most people buy ABS and some buy PE and most will buy white, so I see no big reason for a wide range of different materials and colours.
That way you'll have a reasonable price for a lower range of filament.

Or am I wrong?

'sid]]> sid Reprappers Fri, 13 Feb 2009 09:03:25 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21411#msg-21411 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21411#msg-21411 Ian Adkins Reprappers Fri, 13 Feb 2009 03:14:28 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21393#msg-21393 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21393#msg-21393 Forrest Higgs Reprappers Thu, 12 Feb 2009 07:06:16 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21391#msg-21391 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21391#msg-21391 nophead Reprappers Thu, 12 Feb 2009 07:01:52 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21385#msg-21385 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21385#msg-21385 nophead Reprappers Thu, 12 Feb 2009 04:24:20 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21384#msg-21384 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21384#msg-21384 Ian Adkins Reprappers Thu, 12 Feb 2009 03:49:54 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21354#msg-21354 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21354#msg-21354 www.plasticweldingequipment.co.uk] but I have not used them so can't vouch for them.

I have bought some from [www.tempatron.co.uk]. I had to order it by phone and fax and so far I have not been able to use it because it is too oval to fit my extruder, about 3.6mm.

I got HDPE from here [www.workzone.co.uk] and it was fine, but not as good results as ABS. They don't seem to do round ABS.

It is so expensive over here that I have been buying it from the US from [www.plasticweldingrod.com]. The postage makes it about the same price for 10 lbs or more but they have a bigger choice of colours and plastics and the quality is good. You do have to order by phone and it does takes a while for them to make it and for it to be shipped.

I also got some from the RRRF which comes from [www.villageplastics.com]. That gave me the best results, but Zach's fixed rate shipping is excessive unless you fill the rest of the box with something heavy like stepper motors. I requested a quote from them direct but got no reply.]]> nophead Reprappers Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:37:55 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21349#msg-21349 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21349#msg-21349
Jenn]]> Jenn Reprappers Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:15:09 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21347#msg-21347 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,21347#msg-21347 Jenn Reprappers Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:02:06 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,20850#msg-20850 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,20850#msg-20850
I had to hold the shaft with pliers to get the cut started, but once started it cut through OK.

'measure twice, cut once'

Once you've cut the end, you'll probably need to file off any rough edges. The other thing that helps is filing a flat in the side of the motor shaft - to make it a little bit D shaped - that helps the screw hold the connector on.]]> DaveR Reprappers Mon, 26 Jan 2009 15:28:30 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,20847#msg-20847 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,20847#msg-20847
short all leads together brake the motor
clamp the motor in a vice or to a table
use some locking pliers or clamp to stall the motor shaft on the opposite end you want to cut
use a hacksaw to cut it, possibly adding water or oil to cool it if it gets too hot (not sure how hot the motors can get, but i did to be safe)

I found it nigh on impossible to cut the motor without it rotating without these steps, but like this it was a bit tiring but simple.]]> james glanville Reprappers Mon, 26 Jan 2009 14:21:42 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,20846#msg-20846 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,20846#msg-20846
I am just about finished my XAssembly - and I am having trouble fitting my motor shaft (step 17 and 18) onto the piece marked number 50 (which is on the underside of the motor and sits on top of the clamp/bearing plates). In the instructions, it says that the motor shaft should be cut to length/filed - I was just wondering if this is actually true! Do I have to shave down the motor shaft? If so, can anyone recommend a tool to do this?

Cheers,
Jenn]]> Jenn Reprappers Mon, 26 Jan 2009 13:00:57 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,19292#msg-19292 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,19292#msg-19292
Two questions:

I'm just about to go through the Heater Barrel tutorial - I noticed that 1) my kit didn't come with a copper nozel - is this something I need to buy separately or should it have come with my kit?

2) Neither side of my heater valve has an internal thread. Again, is this right or should one side have an internal thread?

Many thanks!

Jenn]]> JenbotUK Reprappers Wed, 10 Dec 2008 07:24:38 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18725#msg-18725 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18725#msg-18725 Ian Adkins Reprappers Mon, 24 Nov 2008 02:48:35 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18677#msg-18677 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18677#msg-18677 so if you have both pieces left, you can try this first.
I glued some moulded parts with ordinary cyanoacrylic glue which went pretty well.

Since you still have both parts, you may also try to make a mould and use some resin to make a replacement.

'sid

PS Ian will surely help you, sure, but you broke the part; so try yourself first ;)]]> sid Reprappers Fri, 21 Nov 2008 18:22:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18675#msg-18675 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18675#msg-18675
For some of the parts, you may be able to form a temporary replacement out of CAPA (polymorph). Probably not for these bits, though.

You might want to try building the extruder barrel while you're waiting. My BfB extruder kit came with a small chunk of fire cement wrapped in clingfilm. I ended up leaving it for several weeks, and when I came back to it it had gone hard.
It's not a serious problem - I was able to get a big tub of fire cement from BandQ for a few quid.

Good luck

DaveR]]> DaveR Reprappers Fri, 21 Nov 2008 15:28:13 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18672#msg-18672 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18672#msg-18672 JenbotUK Reprappers Fri, 21 Nov 2008 12:46:40 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18635#msg-18635 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18635#msg-18635
J]]> JenbotUK Reprappers Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:37:07 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18630#msg-18630 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18630#msg-18630
If your sleeves are very loose, you could use a small amount of glue to hold them to the acrylic. Or, you could wrap a small length of tape (insulation tape? sellotape?) around the bearing before you insert it to make it fit tighter.]]> DaveR Reprappers Thu, 20 Nov 2008 09:50:06 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18629#msg-18629 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18629#msg-18629
When the x-assembly is complete, it should move smoothly along - it shouldn't have to be forced. You can also use a bit of lubricant (wd40, cycle oil, or even candle wax) on the rods to help things move.

I think the reason a lot of noise is made about this is that if you finish the machine, and it's a bit tight, you have to disassemble almost the entire machine to fix it, including all the fiddly measuring of the diagionals. It's a LOT easier to get it smooth before you start.


DaveR]]> DaveR Reprappers Thu, 20 Nov 2008 09:34:56 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18627#msg-18627 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18627#msg-18627
Make sure that the rods are perfectly angled in the bushings, just like it's in the assembly instructions.
I'd say if you have the assembly mounted and hold it vertical the carriage should move downwards fast and without stuttering down but running smooth.
If that's the case you'll be fine.
If not remove one of the black bearings to find which one is causing the misbehaviour then file it's housing (be gentle)

'sid

At least that's how I would do it from here...
I'm sure Ian can tell much better what to do, so you may have to ask him if it's not working that way]]> sid Reprappers Thu, 20 Nov 2008 08:21:32 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18626#msg-18626 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18626#msg-18626
Now a question with the x carriage assembly - when i slide the rod through the bearings, HOW smooth does it need to be? If I file the holes, then the black plastic bearing doesn't stay in the hole (did you glue it in place?). I don't want to file the black bits if I don't need to, but not sure how to make the movement of the rod through the bearing totally smooth.

J]]> JenbotUK Reprappers Thu, 20 Nov 2008 07:36:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18588#msg-18588 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18588#msg-18588 (a nut about half the height of an ordinary nut)

'sid]]> sid Reprappers Wed, 19 Nov 2008 12:57:04 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18587#msg-18587 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18587#msg-18587
Jenn]]> JenbotUK Reprappers Wed, 19 Nov 2008 12:49:10 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18556#msg-18556 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18556#msg-18556
My trials so far are on [renoirsrants.blogspot.com]

I've just done all this so I'm happy to help others :-)

DaveR]]> DaveR Reprappers Tue, 18 Nov 2008 12:07:03 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18555#msg-18555 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18555#msg-18555 JenbotUK Reprappers Tue, 18 Nov 2008 11:09:58 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18553#msg-18553 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18553#msg-18553
For some reason, that paticular hole (the large bearing? hole) is not used in my completed Darwin. The extruder is attached using 4 M5 bolts through one set of the 4 holes in that plate. Perhaps it was from an earlier design? I'd be inclined to leave it as it is.

The critical holes are the ones with bearing sleeves (the ends of the x-carriage). I widened them with the file until I could put the insert in and a rod would slide easily through the hole.

Print out the laser-cut parts list - it's handy to find parts and also to see if you need the bits from the holes (some of the holes are re-used elsewhere)
[bitsfrombytes.com]
:-)]]> DaveR Reprappers Tue, 18 Nov 2008 10:54:13 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18549#msg-18549 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18549#msg-18549 JenbotUK Reprappers Tue, 18 Nov 2008 10:26:41 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18546#msg-18546 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18546#msg-18546 YMMV :-)]]> DaveR Reprappers Tue, 18 Nov 2008 09:52:25 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18545#msg-18545 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,18539,18545#msg-18545 JenbotUK Reprappers Tue, 18 Nov 2008 09:50:23 -0500