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        <title>Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
        <description>OK so it&#039;s one week this evening since I started making parts for my printer... I am doing this the old fashioned way, because for one thing I don&#039;t have access to a printer to make parts, and secondly, because I like to make things that are like combinations of other things. Typically this works quite well, as long as I have done my homework. So here&#039;s my project. This printer will be a large format; I started wanting 300 x 600 x300 but because I decided to opt for a bowden setup, and my frame is cut out already, it will end up more like 375 x 600 x 300. The frame is being made up of mild steel, mostly 1/8&quot; thick tube, but the Z supports are of 1/4&quot; plate. All this to be welded into one single solid piece. What remains on the frame is to finalize the location of wire runs and nail down the exact location of my rods. The welding will be done to a rather tight specification, with multiple QA checks all the way thru to assure perfect squareness. All components are sanded to fit to a long gauge within a few thousandths. However, there has to be allowance for metal doing what it does, and so I have designed 3 dimensional adjustment collars for my Y and Z rods, as well as my Z screws. These collars (28 pieces) are hand made on a lathe. You can see these in various stages in the picture. 

The geometry is as follows... The build plate which will be framed with lightened aluminum is the Z axis. The X axis runs front to back, and the Y axis runs lengthwise. I am building this machine to make (hopefully) large detailed models. I personally like anything Manned space flight but anything that will fit in this envelope. The printer will be fully enclosed, and will have a heater that will maintain just a high room temperature for curing ABS. I have one of those cube heaters that I will control electronnically (as opposed to Bimetal) to attempt to create a proper curing atmosphere for large, detailed ABS models I plan to make. 

For electronics, I have an Arduino /Ramps 1.4 setup with the LCD controller, I am using #23 motors (200 step) on the Z drive and #17 motors (400 step) on the X, Y and extruders. I am using a direct drive system  A pair of bowden tubes (2mm ID) will feed 1.75 mil filiment thru 2 Jhead Mark V-b hotends.  At some point I want to add more colors. But I&#039;ll hold off on that till I get my test cube to work...8-) There are 2 30 amp PSUs. All electronics draw outside air for cooling. I do not have a definitive count on the number of fans in this thing, there is 1 on each motor, one on the hotends, one on the fresh work, 2 per PSU, and 2 (3?) at the electronics, as well as one or two others for air handling, to keep even temps for curing. 

Instead of using drive belts as belts, I will epoxy them to solid channels and use them to make a rack and pinnion drive for the X, Y axis. In this way, I hope to eliminate slop, stretch, and the inherent backlash from the belts. 

My theory for this printer is simple; put all the weight and rigidity into the frame and stationary parts, and keep the moving bits as light and uncluttered as possible. 

Once I get this thing together, I plan on experimenting with all the various slicers and firmware to see what gives me the results I want. 

Sorry if this went long, but I want to share what I am doing with the community. I will continue to update every few days or so, as things progress.</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,199316#msg-199316</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sat, 13 Jun 2026 18:06:25 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,467562#msg-467562</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,467562#msg-467562</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So... What's happened in the last 7+ months?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Damion</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Feb 2015 19:34:33 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,378953#msg-378953</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,378953#msg-378953</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello Max have you tried printed anything yet just checking in]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2014 08:36:57 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,376207#msg-376207</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,376207#msg-376207</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>nhathaitrieu6</strong><br />
Maxx you are not that transparent it's just that there's only a few ways to achieve what you want to do. And me being a mechanical type like you obviously I think of the problem and then tried to solve it. If two people think the same way attacking a problem usually come out close to the the same solution</div></blockquote>                                         Max I don't know who this guy is but a looks like he just copied and pasted one of my replies I made to you just seems a little weird]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2014 09:29:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,375824#msg-375824</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,375824#msg-375824</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ How is it going Max you've undertaken a big project here have you done test print yet]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 29 Jun 2014 08:13:06 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,361318#msg-361318</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,361318#msg-361318</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Today, I installed the PID controller for the heated bed. Tomorrow, I'll be soldering up the control circuit for the cold end lights, and running power and cold end signals, and a few other odds and ends.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 27 May 2014 19:39:30 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,360327#msg-360327</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,360327#msg-360327</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I managed to get a few days over the holiday weekend (thanks to my wood supplier whose ability to take an order is, not shockingly, absent) anyway, I got the upper assembly, brackets, cooling components and FINALLY cold end mounted....]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 25 May 2014 16:32:21 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,356242#msg-356242</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,356242#msg-356242</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi all, I've been doing customer work for the past several weeks, but I am going to try and finish up a couple of items in the next couple of weeks... Mount the cold end assy. and liquid cooling system on the top of the printer; finish fabrication on the power supply covers, get some tempered glass and laminate up the bed, and finish design on the filament rack. This will leave only the (most important part) carriage / hot end and final assembly. There will still be a bunch of electronics but at that point I can finally start testing. The longer this build goes, the more things I come up with to add to this machine. So it is kind of a double edged sword, balanced between it getting done sooner and ending up cooler. But that is all part of my open ended process...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 16 May 2014 20:02:24 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,355773#msg-355773</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,355773#msg-355773</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ How is it going Max just checking in]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 15 May 2014 19:19:40 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,337620#msg-337620</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,337620#msg-337620</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The heaterX( arrived today from MEI. It was made to my specs, for a pretty reasonable price. Next I'll need to get the glass and the silicone foam insulation, I will use RTV for assembly. This heater has a thermocouple that will be used for control, via an Auber Instruments PID, and a solid state relay. I will glue in a thermistor to report temps to the Ramps board. The controller is fully programmable, so all of the heater control operations, and all amperage is totally separate from ramps, I do believe this will eliminate a host of problems. This heater runs on mains current, once you get to this size, I think it is the most practical way to do it. <br />
<br />
MEI specializes in short runs and one offs, so to anybody who is looking to do an odd or large size, and one of the 3D vendors does not have what you need, this might be a good option. (just google them) I got mine in just over a month, and it appears to be well made. The glasses are there for scale.:P]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 09 Apr 2014 17:51:57 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,336087#msg-336087</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,336087#msg-336087</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Today I finished up and installed the transition that holds up the upper assembly, which will include the extruders and the cooling system. Here's a shot of the printer so far...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 06 Apr 2014 18:19:58 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,335530#msg-335530</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,335530#msg-335530</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I ran into a possible issue with the length of the linear rods, concerning the possibility of flexing and drooping. Fortunately, the frame of my machine is constructed heavy enough to allow a stressed configuration, with the rods on the long axis bolted to the endcaps and held in tension. This will prevent any tendency for the 12mm rod not to hold its linearity. The main, 25 mm rod is of less concern, though it is also bolted in to prevent it rotating. A note about the rods... I got most of my rods from VXB and they are fine, however there are no engineering specs available. The 25 mm rod came from Misumi, and they have full engineering specs on the website. Further, they will cut to length to the mm, and sell you only what you need. It is more complicated to place the order from Misumi, but there are definite advantages... <br />
<br />
Things are going to start coming together now, I do have a couple of critical parts still on order, but construction is nearing the home stretch.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Apr 2014 12:03:28 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330868#msg-330868</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330868#msg-330868</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ My idea is to have some sort of symmetrically sprung pair of tensioners to hold the belt in a  270 deg contact with the gear. After doing a couple of tests yesterday, I started thinking about fit vs. wear, and late fit (after wear) and came to the conclusion that CNCD, you are correct, I'd ultimately find a reliability issue with my previous design. The differences in hardness between thew belt and gear are significant. The gear would have had to be machined down to (a flat of) around 4 mm, engaging just a couple of teeth at a time. So I am now reasonably sure that the wear characteristics would prove to be unacceptable. So the tensioners would be proper sized bearings on a floating unit with tension springs top and bottom, and some sort of yet to be designed dampener. Note the belt is not drawn, because, well, I just got up and drawing the belt would be a PITA, but I think you can visualize its path.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2014 12:36:42 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330823#msg-330823</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330823#msg-330823</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Changing directions wont affect the setup I described and that is the whole reason for my attempting to adapt it to repraps.  A compression spring pushing a bolt linearly would be affected, but a torsion spring turning the scew will not.  Picture a leadscrew, like you'll find on your machining equipment, screwed into a stationary nut and unconstrained at both ends.....now apply a pure axial compression load on one end of the leadscrew...the leadscrew is not going to want to turn from just an axial force.  There is no way a reprap is going to produce enough tension in a belt to back out a screw with proper mechanical advantage(determined by angle of inclined plane creating the threads).<br />
<br />
Spark ignition engines can experience moments of reverse rotation when shut off or when a start sequence fails to get engine running...if you've ever experienced kick back when trying to kick-start a large bore single cylinder 4 stroke motorcycle you KNOW this is true.  <br />
I did not invent this design, simply attempting to adapt it over to repraps from a proven implementation.<br />
<br />
Maybe there is something else I am overlooking....I will find out as soon as I mount and test my tensioners.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Creo</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2014 11:24:19 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330611#msg-330611</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330611#msg-330611</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The idea of a spring is fine if everything goes in one direction but you are going to have masses flinging around in both directions]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2014 00:33:02 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330600#msg-330600</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330600#msg-330600</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Incredible build, you sure have put a lot of time into it....I applaud you (tu). What you might be able to do on your belt tensioners is something I am working on.  It is a WIP so I can't verify yet its effectiveness....but, it is the same principal used by the cam chain tensioner on many motorcycles.  <br />
Like many belts used by reprappers, a cam chain depends on teeth engagement, not high tension to create enough friction forces(like a v-belt), to keep from slipping.  Of course, a cam chain does operate at high tension but that is due too high forces generated in the valve train, since moving a "print head" around generates much smaller forces this should be easily adaptable to a tensioning system for repraps.<br />
Use a torsion spring to turn a screw with a very low pitch...end of screw(linear motion) pushes against tensioner.  With proper "ramp" on your screw, the torsion spring will turn it to tension belt but any force pushing against the tensioner will NOT cause the screw to turn and back out.  If system generates slack, the torsion spring turns screw a little more and removes slack.  An automatic anti-backlash belt tensioner! :)<br />
I've already started assembling my build for testing and the tensioning assembly is the last component in my belt path I have to complete.  Hope to post pictures of my build soon, will provide link here when I do if anyone is interested.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Creo</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 22:59:32 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330570#msg-330570</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330570#msg-330570</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Since forces are going back and forth I wouldn't use a spring system. Motor shafts even the small ones on Nema 17 can take quite a bit if I remember right there is no problem running 20 pounds pull force on the belt even on a Nema 17 and if you built the system with plates and bearings on both sides of the pully it would be as much as the belt could handle hundreds of pounds. I would at make some kind a clamp for one side of the belt and make it adjustable on one side of the machine to pull the belt and clamp it stationary  to the machine on the other side]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 19:27:51 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330554#msg-330554</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330554#msg-330554</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The next consideration would be the initial tension on the belt. I don't want to stress the drive pulleys and clearly don't want to have any slop. I'm thinking to spring the idlers...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 18:23:35 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330525#msg-330525</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330525#msg-330525</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think that's a much better way to go with the drive Maxx]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 17:20:49 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330502#msg-330502</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330502#msg-330502</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Well, CNCD, you've given me another idea, something that you had showed me about a month ago, with a looped belt and then I'd use a pair of idlers at either side of the pulley. Then I'd just need to get  some open lmm25s and do it that way, because I'm seeing the issue with the contact. It would seem that it will run my way, but it would take a lot more torque wrapping the belt. Then, I could use toothed lands to stabilize the belt in the linear direction and save at least a couple of hundred bucks! :P I would have abut 270 deg of constant contact, but still not be flapping a 7' belt. The more I think about this , the better it starts to sound.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 16:22:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330494#msg-330494</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330494#msg-330494</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Maxx I know you've made a decision to go with this kind of drive but I don't think you going to be happy with it. If you have pulleys and belts make a little test piece out of wood cut a slot glue a small piece of belt in. Make another piece out of wood in which a pulley can be mounted and locked so it does not rotate. Put one on top of the other and push back and forth to test the backlash. Belts are meant to be bent around a pully if you think of it the rubber is what compresses and the fiber or the steel in the belt is what stays the same the fiber is located in the center of the backing so when belt is bent teeth come closer together this is what makes it fit the radius of the pully belt in a flat position does not fit the pulleys very well.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 16:04:48 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330493#msg-330493</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330493#msg-330493</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If a rubber belt is going to be located in the slot, do you really need 0.0002" tolerance.<br />
Consider reviewing the mfg tolerance of the belt pitch/thickness, and run a test indicator over the belt to verify, maybe you can open up the tolerance a little. <br />
<br />
Tks for sharing, looking forward to learning how it works out.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>A2</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 15:59:21 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330478#msg-330478</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330478#msg-330478</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So basically, I have this, and a 12 mm rod which will be slotted to make a rack and pinion drive for the x, y axis'. From what I have read in some tech data online, the benefit to post hardening milling is that it tends not to warp,  once you cut a slot in a round and harden it, it will usually deform. I had come up with a way to slip this part across my mill way, using just a piece of angle, the problem is, my mill is nowhere near firm enough to do hardened work. You must use carbide, more than 1 end mill will be needed. The only end mills I have found that are 6mm x 3/8" are Enco, which has only hss and cobalt. I would need to buy a collet, 1/2 dozen end mills, clamping stuff, and I'm still fighting a mill really meant for mild steels and aluminum. So I think I will wind up farming this out. Kind of like with things like silicon heat mats, and hot ends, there are experts out there, and every once in a while, it ends up best letting them do what they're best at..]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 15:30:07 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330456#msg-330456</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330456#msg-330456</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm curious, can you post a pic of what you're trying to machine, the type of steel, and it's heat treat process.<br />
<br />
If it's long use a boring mill, I used to operate one, you could easily put a car on the table.<br />
If it's case harden it's going to warp a lot, and if it's through harden it's still going to warp but not as much.<br />
After machining it will most likely will need to be pressed straight.<br />
EDM machining would be interesting to use, you wouldn't have to worry about moving the clamps as the cutter passed by, but $$$.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>A2</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 14:33:25 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330448#msg-330448</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,330448#msg-330448</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've been on the phone ALL day to try to find a machine shop to slot my linear rods. There are a few specific issues such as capacity (length ) of their machinery, cutter availability, and how stiff the machine is. A bridgeport won't do the trick, you need a big, heavy machining center. So the harbor freight mill is out of the question. 8-) Rockwell 61 surfaces tend to chip carbide tooling, so there is that. One thing's for certain, this is not happening today. 2 weeks seems to be the common backlog, and being a contractor, I know precisely what that means. I once left a piece of plating for 2 weeks, and picked it up 13 months later...::o Nor will it be cheap - the minimum cost to do this would buy a bottom of the line printer kit. But, this must be done. In the meantime, there are a few more items I can do before I get down to the final item - the carriage assembly, and you will be seeing those thing as they get done.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2014 14:12:42 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,329124#msg-329124</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,329124#msg-329124</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Quickly, this weekend, I have been working on a couple of parts for the printer. One is the top frame which will hold the extruders, the cooling system and roughly half of the electronics...It is made from wood, being the easiest way to get the shape I wanted, and is halfway thru finishing right now. I know I said at the outset I was staying away from wood for this build, but it is not a piece which effects the geometry, so...Second, I am machining the primary linear rod that I will use for the long axis. This includes sizing to length, turning down and tapping the ends and milling a slot for the belt which will form the integral rack and pinion drive. This will be the most difficult part, as the rod is hardened, and I bought only one end mill, so I guess I'll be using lots and lots of oil... Pix next week.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 23 Mar 2014 19:53:47 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,323764#msg-323764</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,323764#msg-323764</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Parts are coming in... I got my PID controller with the ramp and soak feature to run the heated bed. Ramp and soak is basically a means to manually pre program the heat curve on the bed. It offloads the work from the ramps board, while I'll still be able to report the bed temp to ramps. This is another thing to have to calibrate, but you do get more temp control of the bed than you will ever get from ramps, along with zero exposure of current from the heater to your control board. I also got a SSR to actually run the heat bed.  I'm working on the top of the enclosure which will have a wood frame with aluminum and polycarbonate components. The inside will be heat shielded with an automotive product. The silicon heat blanket is currently in production. I still need to order glass and a silicone sheet for insulation, the 25mm linear bearings are making their leisurely way across the pacific, so the carriage is still on hold. I do plan to get a lot done this weekend, the last several days were spent giving my truck a 1/4 million mile tuneup. I have a couple of lighting details to put together, they take the least time and cost by far the least money, but I don't want to do everything twice. I am still batting a few different ideas about for the multi hotend head. One thing's for certain, it will be an interchangeable part so I can try a few things. One hotend is out of the question, due to concerns with contamination and the fact that I will be printing in up to not only 7 colors, but 7 materials as well. If you go the restaurant and get soda, usually it tastes wrong because all of the flavors pass thru the same nozzle. So think of how much more viscous filament is than a beverage. Right now, I'm looking at extraction as the best path to take.<br />
<br />
I hope to have a few pics in the next few days.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2014 13:38:28 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,323582#msg-323582</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,323582#msg-323582</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi maxx keep us up to date]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2014 06:48:44 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,319834#msg-319834</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,319834#msg-319834</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The last one I saw (open source) it was all in the manner in which you open the files. I will try and find the vid if I can. The Makerbot software has a more user friendly appproach, but it is for the Makerbot and it is for two colors as the makerbot only has two colors... :P<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This just in!::o<br />
<br />
What you evidently want is the new slic3r RC3. This has support for multiple extruders. I found it just now while trying to find something I saw several months ago...I will be tying this into repetier, and I think this will complete the tool chain. If I get a chance later this week, I'll get some files and see how it works.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Mar 2014 18:15:42 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,319777#msg-319777</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,319777#msg-319777</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Okay Maxx so you put multiple STL's on the same platform and somehow get them precisely lined up. And then assign different extruders for different STL's and then slice the package. I don't think the slicers I've used will let you do that but I haven't tried any new slicers in a year]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cnc dick</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Mar 2014 16:44:57 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,319766#msg-319766</guid>
            <title>Re: Design nearly done - construction started...</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,199316,319766#msg-319766</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The slicer actually takes care of this. Actually, I have really old autocad myself, same as what you used... The full blown Autocad is 3d, Autocad lte is 2d, they have an affordable cloud product now. Anyway, you have the word layer used differently in different places. Obviously, layers on your printer are flat things that stack like pancakes. In Autocad, in a 3d environment, layers do not have a vertical hierarchy, as they might in CorelDRAW, for example. They are basically groups of objects, like a group in Corel. So, these layers in Autocad can exist through other layers. Think of designing a house... You have walls on one layer, pipes on another layer, windows on yet another . So when you get your house built, the pipes are not above the house, they are in the house. This is how layers relate in Autocad. When the printer prints, it does not print one color at a time. As the print head passes over the work,the slicer activates the appropriate hotend for the color needed at any point in the work. So how does this work. The answer is as simple as it is complicated. <b>The slicer can only print models in a single color. It can however print numerous models in the same space, each their own single color. And all at the same time</b> It neither knows nor cares that it is doing this. So each color is actually a separate model, and they are printed at basically the same origin point. Well not exactly, they are in fact offset in origin, but if you properly overlap them in all 3 dimensions, and don't actually have mass sharing the same space, it can print a perfect multi color object, if all goes well. So in a sense, you are printing a bunch of models inside each other, with each color being a model. The trick is to open your first model and import the rest, and then the slicer knows what to do with them. So the print head is very busy changing colors all through the single layer, and layers are still built up the same way as they would be in one color - front to back, left to right, at a single height.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Maxx Mayhem</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Mar 2014 16:30:21 -0500</pubDate>
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