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        <title>Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
        <description>I bought silicone heatbed 12V 220W and I am wondering can I connect it directly to my 12V 30A 360W PSU not on ramps but directly to PSU and then termistor to ramps 1.4 ?

THX</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,612694#msg-612694</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sun, 07 Jun 2026 13:58:07 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,702148#msg-702148</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,702148#msg-702148</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ hello again,<br />
<br />
i have set up my 240V ac mains to the heatbed and SSR... then connected the DC + - to the MKS base heatbed output + - <br />
<br />
<br />
the problem is that the relay isnt switching? any ideas?<br />
or could it be something in the firmware?<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
O.T]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 20 Aug 2016 15:31:15 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628639#msg-628639</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628639#msg-628639</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>smoothol</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>smoothol</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
For a heated bed of that size, you should use one of the following:<br />
<br />
1. AC mains voltage bed heater, driven using a DC-AC SST. Only do this if you are knowledgeable about and comfortable with doing mains voltage wiring.<br />
<br />
2. A 24V bed heater (in which case you may as well run the entire printer on 24V, assuming you use 24V-capable electronics). The bed heater will draw 13.75A. Some electronics can handle this current directly (e.g.  the Duet 0.8.5 should be OK at this current). Otherwise, use a good (low drop) DC-DC SSR or the Power Expander from reprap.me</div></blockquote>
<br />
<br />
could I not use 12v heatbed and a SSR with a higher amp resistance for instance 50A RRS?</div></blockquote>
<br />
Bad idea. Dealing with such high currents is not nice, and keeping the resistance low enough is not easy.</div></blockquote>
<br />
ahhh okay i may switch to 24v then.... so to sum it all up theres no way of controlling the temperature of the heatbed from the MKS board??</div></blockquote>
<br />
That depends on whether the MKS board you want to use is 24V capable and its heated bed circuit can switch 14A. I suggest you check it's specifications.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 18:35:12 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628561#msg-628561</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628561#msg-628561</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>smoothol</strong><br />
12v means high current which = fatality<br />
<br />
<br />
lol<br />
<br />
<br />
so should i do the same set up as you with an automotive relay?<br />
please could you share the component and wiring details :)</div></blockquote>
<br />
You can use 12V heater with relay without worries, if You have good relay to be sure 50A]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:51:14 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628558#msg-628558</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628558#msg-628558</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Wiring relay and sillicone heatbed (i have g.cartier 12V-50A automotive relay, and 12V 280W sillicone heater)<br />
<br />
<br />
You have 4 wires that needs to be hooked up to relay<br />
<br />
Plus from relay (number 1 on relay) goes to D8+ on ramps, second wire (number 2 on relay) from relay goes to D8- , third wire from relay (number 3 on relay) goes to + on your PSU, wire number 4 from relay (number 5 on relay) goes to sillicone bed, the last wire from heatbed goes to - on PSU<br />
<br />
DONT WIRE - AND + WRONG WAY FROM RELAY TO RAMPS CAUSE THERE IS CHANCE TO FRIED IT.<br />
<br />
You need to know wiring schematic on relay]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:49:27 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628556#msg-628556</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628556#msg-628556</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ 12v means high current which = fatality<br />
<br />
<br />
lol<br />
<br />
<br />
so should i do the same set up as you with an automotive relay?<br />
please could you share the component and wiring details :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:46:26 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628550#msg-628550</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628550#msg-628550</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Yes I control it with my board]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:33:47 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628549#msg-628549</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628549#msg-628549</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Beer4Brew</strong><br />
330W but what is voltage? 12V or 24V, 330W/12V=27.5A or as dc42 say 330W/24V=13.75A<br />
So You buy SSR acording to that equation.<br />
Didnt work with other relays so I cant give You advice which one to buy, I hooked up Automotive relay 12V 50A that is low cost works like a charm (printing 12 hours a day for a month now with no problems) but if You need help with wiring, any relay that You choose I can help, or You just need to read schematic of relay its not that difficult, will make instructables of my ups and downs in next couple of days after returning from IMOT, will eat, drink beer and try to sell prints while am there:)-D:)-D</div></blockquote>
<br />
are you able to control the temperature of the heatbed through the control board by using the automotive relay? or do you use a manual set temperature device?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:32:50 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628548#msg-628548</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628548#msg-628548</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You can, people do that, but I would avoid it, its better with relay...<br />
<br />
And why You dont want to use 12V heat pad?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:30:08 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628544#msg-628544</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,628544#msg-628544</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>smoothol</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
For a heated bed of that size, you should use one of the following:<br />
<br />
1. AC mains voltage bed heater, driven using a DC-AC SST. Only do this if you are knowledgeable about and comfortable with doing mains voltage wiring.<br />
<br />
2. A 24V bed heater (in which case you may as well run the entire printer on 24V, assuming you use 24V-capable electronics). The bed heater will draw 13.75A. Some electronics can handle this current directly (e.g.  the Duet 0.8.5 should be OK at this current). Otherwise, use a good (low drop) DC-DC SSR or the Power Expander from reprap.me</div></blockquote>
<br />
<br />
could I not use 12v heatbed and a SSR with a higher amp resistance for instance 50A RRS?</div></blockquote>
<br />
Bad idea. Dealing with such high currents is not nice, and keeping the resistance low enough is not easy.</div></blockquote>
<br />
<br />
<br />
ahhh okay i may switch to 24v then.... so to sum it all up theres no way of controlling the temperature of the heatbed from the MKS board??]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:26:31 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627981#msg-627981</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627981#msg-627981</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>smoothol</strong><br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
For a heated bed of that size, you should use one of the following:<br />
<br />
1. AC mains voltage bed heater, driven using a DC-AC SST. Only do this if you are knowledgeable about and comfortable with doing mains voltage wiring.<br />
<br />
2. A 24V bed heater (in which case you may as well run the entire printer on 24V, assuming you use 24V-capable electronics). The bed heater will draw 13.75A. Some electronics can handle this current directly (e.g.  the Duet 0.8.5 should be OK at this current). Otherwise, use a good (low drop) DC-DC SSR or the Power Expander from reprap.me</div></blockquote>
<br />
<br />
could I not use 12v heatbed and a SSR with a higher amp resistance for instance 50A RRS?</div></blockquote>
<br />
Bad idea. Dealing with such high currents is not nice, and keeping the resistance low enough is not easy.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:02:35 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627975#msg-627975</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627975#msg-627975</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Beer4Brew</strong><br />
330W but what is voltage? 12V or 24V, 330W/12V=27.5A or as dc42 say 330W/24V=13.75A<br />
So You buy SSR acording to that equation.<br />
Didnt work with other relays so I cant give You advice which one to buy, I hooked up Automotive relay 12V 50A that is low cost works like a charm (printing 12 hours a day for a month now with no problems) but if You need help with wiring, any relay that You choose I can help, or You just need to read schematic of relay its not that difficult, will make instructables of my ups and downs in next couple of days after returning from IMOT, will eat, drink beer and try to sell prints while am there:)-D:)-D</div></blockquote>
<br />
thanks, could you please post link for wirings when you have :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:45:49 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627974#msg-627974</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627974#msg-627974</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>dc42</strong><br />
For a heated bed of that size, you should use one of the following:<br />
<br />
1. AC mains voltage bed heater, driven using a DC-AC SST. Only do this if you are knowledgeable about and comfortable with doing mains voltage wiring.<br />
<br />
2. A 24V bed heater (in which case you may as well run the entire printer on 24V, assuming you use 24V-capable electronics). The bed heater will draw 13.75A. Some electronics can handle this current directly (e.g.  the Duet 0.8.5 should be OK at this current). Otherwise, use a good (low drop) DC-DC SSR or the Power Expander from reprap.me</div></blockquote>
<br />
<br />
could I not use 12v heatbed and a SSR with a higher amp resistance for instance 50A RRS?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:44:24 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627957#msg-627957</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627957#msg-627957</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ 330W but what is voltage? 12V or 24V, 330W/12V=27.5A or as dc42 say 330W/24V=13.75A<br />
So You buy SSR acording to that equation.<br />
Didnt work with other relays so I cant give You advice which one to buy, I hooked up Automotive relay 12V 50A that is low cost works like a charm (printing 12 hours a day for a month now with no problems) but if You need help with wiring, any relay that You choose I can help, or You just need to read schematic of relay its not that difficult, will make instructables of my ups and downs in next couple of days after returning from IMOT, will eat, drink beer and try to sell prints while am there:)-D:)-D]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:13:47 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627937#msg-627937</guid>
            <title>Re: x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627937#msg-627937</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ For a heated bed of that size, you should use one of the following:<br />
<br />
1. AC mains voltage bed heater, driven using a DC-AC SST. Only do this if you are knowledgeable about and comfortable with doing mains voltage wiring.<br />
<br />
2. A 24V bed heater (in which case you may as well run the entire printer on 24V, assuming you use 24V-capable electronics). The bed heater will draw 13.75A. Some electronics can handle this current directly (e.g.  the Duet 0.8.5 should be OK at this current). Otherwise, use a good (low drop) DC-DC SSR or the Power Expander from reprap.me]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:34:55 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627925#msg-627925</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627925#msg-627925</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Beer4Brew</strong><br />
Guys thx for all help but if You want silicone heated bed and You have some prusa i3 variant You can do like me I use 12V 360W 30A power supply for LED lights bought for 30$ sillicone heater 12V 280W that I hooked up to automotive relay g.cartier 12V 50A and I dont have extra power supply just hooked it up to that power supply for my prusa and thats it in a minute my bed gets hot to 50C.<br />
<br />
If someone need help with wiring let me know.</div></blockquote>
<br />
hi mate, i'm a little bit of a novice when it comes to electronics, im looking to do a similar set up as you and was wondering if you could share a bit of knowledge with me!<br />
<br />
<br />
im looking to make a prusa i3 with a 350x350mm heatbed that runs at 330w. I will use 850w atx PSU and MKS v1.3 board.<br />
<br />
how do i set up a SSR to limit the power to the controller? and would it need to be DC-DC or AC-DC ?<br />
also<br />
<br />
<br />
if the all the components, excluding the heatbed, need 340w then what amp SSR do i need?<br />
<br />
<br />
any advise would be appreciated! smiling smiley]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:25:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627924#msg-627924</guid>
            <title>x</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,627924#msg-627924</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ x]]></description>
            <dc:creator>smoothol</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:24:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,624057#msg-624057</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,624057#msg-624057</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ $17.00 and works perfectly with heat sink and 40mm fan.<br />
[<a href="http://www.mpja.com/40A-480VDC-Solid-State-Relay/productinfo/17289+RL/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.mpja.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>elwood127</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2016 16:33:48 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623677#msg-623677</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623677#msg-623677</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Me to and I did that with automotive relay, one print was 5 hours and only thing that melted cause am an idiot is electrical tape around connection that connects heatbed to relay...<br />
<br />
As previous post DONT use cheap relays, and if You have copper mk heatbed You really dont need relay...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2016 01:26:41 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623676#msg-623676</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623676#msg-623676</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Cheap DC-DC SSRS such as SSR-25DD and SSR-40DD are NO GOOD for driving heated beds because of their high voltage drop. This has been repeated many times on these forums. Try the Power Expander from reprap.me instead. The Crydom dc-dc SSRs are also good but expensive. There is another brand of SSR that is ok and doesn't cost too much, but I don't have the link available.<br />
<br />
Can't your electronics drive that bed heater directly?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2016 01:26:10 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623672#msg-623672</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623672#msg-623672</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ All I did on my SSR setup was to connect the wires that went from the mainboard to the heatbed originally to the control side of the SSR. Nothing else was changed. My first SSR was faulty and let the heatbed run away. Once I replaced it, it worked perfectly.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>elwood127</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2016 01:12:16 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623576#msg-623576</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,623576#msg-623576</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ jumping into this conversation....<br />
<br />
<b>DO we modify the firmware when using a SSR?</b>:S<br />
<br />
The reason I ask, is that I I just FRIED mine at first usage after 20 mins of usage.<br />
<br />
Luckily, My house was not burn down....<br />
<br />
It is just the SSR that was kaput!<br />
<br />
Mine is SSR-DD 25A<br />
and my bed is MKA 1.3 ohms with SWPS at 13.5V<br />
MArlin V1<br />
Melzi V3b by Zonestar.<br />
<br />
the temp reached so high (i left unattended) that melt the insulation I installed under the bed and also the Acrylic base that holds the heated bed got so hot that has deformed beyond <br />
possibility to reuse it (although I will try to put it into the oven to see if I could "soften it and put it back flat"<br />
<br />
unless I connected it in reverse (output + -) then it would make same sense, but otherwise, I suspect that we should change the settings for the temperature control...<br />
<br />
Any feedback?<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bobyni</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 08 Feb 2016 17:55:43 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,621993#msg-621993</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,621993#msg-621993</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi<br />
     If you look at that unit on ebay it is 110volt is that ok to use with the heatbed ?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>gatonini</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Feb 2016 13:16:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,620169#msg-620169</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,620169#msg-620169</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi  I have a question for the digital doctor I purchased the unit you recommended for the gentleman to purchase off of ebay what would the wiring look like for setting it up for a separate power supply running to my heatbed.  Thank You !  This is the unit AC 10A 110V Digital PID Temperature Controller Thermocouple Sensor LCD Display I also purchased a SSR  Sunkee Solid State Relay SSR-25 DD DC-DC 25A 3-32VDC/5-60V DC SSR-25DD]]></description>
            <dc:creator>gatonini</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 02 Feb 2016 14:11:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,614706#msg-614706</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,614706#msg-614706</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Guys thx for all help but if You want silicone heated bed and You have some prusa i3 variant You can do like me I use 12V 360W 30A power supply for LED lights bought for 30$ sillicone heater 12V 280W that I hooked up to automotive relay g.cartier 12V 50A and I dont have extra power supply just hooked it up to that power supply for my prusa and thats it in a minute my bed gets hot to 50C.<br />
<br />
If someone need help with wiring let me know.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Jan 2016 02:32:46 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,614704#msg-614704</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,614704#msg-614704</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ cheers gmckee, I was getting a little muxdip,  with 220w &amp; 240v and 24v when what I was exploring would have been a 240v plug in heater solution, but maybe I'll just get another 24v power supply for the bed, the ssr(auber) in the other thread if I can get my hands on one, and hopefully the tips in the other thread to help me get my head around things, electronics phase me a little, as I'm a bit late to the subject, due to a cockup at school where I lost some of my chosen subjects...I lost physics electronics, never really touched the subject since, even though grandpa was an electrician, I never learned anything from him, but after he died I inherited some tools and components, which where ever I could where used in the construction of the printer, I have a big black siren &amp; large black retro ammeter I still need to incorporate, pity he couldn't have seen the final thing, or helped build it, but life's not always fair like that.<br />
<br />
Does anyone use ssr on the extruder heaters?<br />
maybe i'll put the cartridge on the second psu too.<br />
might be overkill using 2 psu's but I just want to limit the juice in the arduino]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MechaBits</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Jan 2016 02:22:25 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,614568#msg-614568</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,614568#msg-614568</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I use the control wiring to activate the ssr and it works awesome.<br />
[attachment 70604 DSC00704.JPG]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>elwood127</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2016 16:41:35 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,613132#msg-613132</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,613132#msg-613132</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ All of the controllers you linked to are 120-240v AC. You could use these tl externally control a heated bed if you wanted to but only on AC voltage.<br />
<br />
To be able to switch 18.3A@12v of current you would need a DC ssr with a rather large heatsink. You could hook the heated bed output to the input of the ssr and the heater to the output powered directly by the powersupply. Plug in your thermistor and you still have a gcode compatible heated bed, and don't have to worry about forgetting the heater off.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>gmckee</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2016 23:19:08 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,613124#msg-613124</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,613124#msg-613124</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I want to take the load out of the ramps also(silicon heater in the future), just in case, so might try one of those units linked to.<br />
Found a 240v one here [<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200-240V-Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple-with-Sensor-LCD-Display-/131150845859?hash=item1e893317a3:g:IUcAAMXQuTNTMpPb" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.ebay.co.uk</a>]<br />
but also found these types<br />
25A<br />
[<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC110-240V-PID-Temperature-Control-Controller-25A-SSR-K-thermocouple-Sensor-/262242955078?hash=item3d0ee5ef46:g:xasAAOSwwPhWjma7" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.ebay.co.uk</a>]<br />
and 40A [<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-240V-Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-max-40A-SSR-K-Thermocouple-Probe-/271635476829?hash=item3f3ebc715d:g:bicAAOxyhXRTMkBI" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.ebay.co.uk</a>]<br />
look very small, I assume there's no need to hook up to ramps, but have to program printer to start job without heating bed.<br />
Probe might need changing.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MechaBits</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2016 21:59:10 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,612764#msg-612764</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,612764#msg-612764</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Why don't you try it and see?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>the_digital_dentist</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2016 09:22:51 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,612756#msg-612756</guid>
            <title>Re: Silicone bed 12V directly to PSU???</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,612694,612756#msg-612756</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I know what You are saying but You dont understand me, I know how print works and how to stick it to bed and I printed many things without heated bed, I have printer for a year now, but this build is my first time building a 3d printer and I ordered silicone pad connect it to ramps 1.4 but wires get to much heat so I unplluged and after minor issues with stepper drivers I put 60mm fan to cool my ramps board so the question is Are that enough to cool silicone pad wires connected to ramps or should I buy SSR?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Beer4Brew</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2016 09:16:20 -0500</pubDate>
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