Hello! Yesterday evening I had my first attemt to set the house on fire, thought the fire brigade might be more prepared during Xmas :-) It seems quite possible to make the plumbing solder and fluss stick to the drive screw but I found it impossible to "wet" the 40mm wire part before torching it. I feel a little confused, in the instructions for the extruder they warn you about going to heavy with the fluss, since that can make the flexible wire go stiff, but trying everything from a little heat to a red-glowing wire, the solder (silver-stannum I think) refused to stick. I also used some fluss which caught fire if I used to much of it. Maybe I'm using the wrong kind of wire, this was some $10 for 5 meter wire intended to use with boats. Any suggestions? I obsiously need a wire that sucks the solder in. Anyway it was quite fun yesterday. Today I bought a fire extinguisher... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7356#msg-7356 Thu, 05 Mar 2026 09:51:17 -0500 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,13804#msg-13804 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,13804#msg-13804
Universal Couplings Order Code
4mm - 4mm N12BQ
6mm - 6mm N13BQ

Which may/may-not be worth considering.

I think they are supplied to maplin by MFA COMO DRILLS who interestingly enough are usualy cheap and cheerful and now stock Timing Belts and Gears.......

[www.mfacomodrills.com]

Cheers

aka47]]> aka47 Reprappers Wed, 02 Jul 2008 13:43:35 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,9946#msg-9946 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,9946#msg-9946
I abandoned the flexible drive shaft. If the filament has a low bend radius, the answer is simple; use a longer feed screw and mount the motor further away from the extruder barrel. The longer the screw is to the motor, the lower the curvature required of the filament. Direct drive lowers friction and motor heat. It should be possible to mount bearings away from the filament contact area of the feed screw.

[www.flickr.com]

Our version is in lasercut ply but you see the idea.]]> tobyborland Reprappers Wed, 27 Feb 2008 09:53:39 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,8328#msg-8328 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,8328#msg-8328
[attachment 422 RepRapJBWeld003.jpg]

I'll do what nophead says..."After letting it cure at room temperature for 15 hours I then baked it in the oven for two hours at 200C."

So Friday after dinner (tomorrow), the oven is mine!]]> Anonymous User Reprappers Thu, 10 Jan 2008 22:25:12 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7678#msg-7678 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7678#msg-7678
It looked to me like you virtually had HDPE sorted I guess when you get to overhangs the problem returns but i for one am very impressed with the result you've got.

Back to the original I think it's simply a case of which ever is easier for the individual and I suggest the wiki has both methods as I know for some getting JB weld is a problem, all down to local conditions :)]]> Ian Adkins Reprappers Sat, 22 Dec 2007 03:44:55 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7671#msg-7671 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7671#msg-7671
The JB weld option works fine so why not change the wiki instructions to that?

I would recommend the direct drive except for the fact that to me PLA seems the only hope of room temp FDM working.

HDPE filament is available but shrinks too much.

CAPA or PCL is is the recommended plastic but my experience with hand molded PolyMorph is that it shrinks a lot when it cools, perhaps as much or even more than HDPE. I can't find mold shrinkage figures for it on the web.

So PLA looks like it might work from Vic's pics but I can't find mold shrinkage figures for that either.

Commercial FDM machines use ABS which has low mold shrinkage but even with that they feel the need to put it in an oven.

Does room temperature FDM work with any known plastic?]]> nophead Reprappers Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:58:41 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7670#msg-7670 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7670#msg-7670 Ian Adkins Reprappers Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:41:10 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7665#msg-7665 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7665#msg-7665
i'm going to see if adrian will print me off some of the old designed parts and get molds of them for the store. we an even use the same drive screw... instead of soldering the steel wire to the screw, then a nut to the wire, we can just solder a nut directly onto the end of the drive screw. nice, easy, simple.

i'll let you guys know when its ready, and i may even be able to offer just the mounting part for the drive itself if there is interest.]]> ZachHoeken Reprappers Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:06:49 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7651#msg-7651 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7651#msg-7651 Alternately, you can use a belt between the two.]]> Roach_S Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 20:54:13 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7649#msg-7649 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7649#msg-7649 redskinsjbs Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 20:15:47 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7648#msg-7648 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7648#msg-7648 The screw would have to change in pitch from "base" to "tip".
By doing this, you'd be able to mount the motor at an angle other than in line with the feedstock, without relying on a flexible shaft.

I can see making one by wrapping a cone in a string, and making a sandcasting of it. I can also see soldering, lightly, a wire to a cone, then using a dremel to carve the cone between the wraps of the wire, before peeling the wire off the cone.]]> Roach_S Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 19:40:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7647#msg-7647 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7647#msg-7647 nophead Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 19:21:52 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7646#msg-7646 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7646#msg-7646 [attachment 383 Untitled-1.jpg]]]> redskinsjbs Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 18:37:10 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7644#msg-7644 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7644#msg-7644
I think my drive screw is a bit close to the hdpe and so binds a little more than it ought to. Whatever the cause, the crappy job done on soldering the cable to the screw held up very well. No problems there even with just a little bit holding it on.

I'm thinking this piece is a bit over done for what we are using it for. Maybe ABS will be harder to push and will need more strenght but HDPE doesn't and neither does CAPA. Does anyone have an alternate coupling idea to replace this clever but hard to fabricate design? Something simple.

I was fiddling with a direct drive setup like in a version one extruder and simply resigning myself to the fact that I won't be able to extrude stuff that wont bend. As far as I can tell there is no call fur such extrusion yet anyway.

Ideas anyone?

Demented]]> Demented Chihuahua Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 17:44:30 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7623#msg-7623 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7623#msg-7623
Should work much better, then with the naked wire ...

Viktor]]> VDX Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 07:18:26 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7622#msg-7622 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7622#msg-7622
Then just heated up the drive screw so the solder flussed nicely.

Then I took the wire with a lot of flux and this was a pain since the solder seemed to melt and then got blown away by the fire...

But anyway I managed to get some of the solder already inside the drive screw to stick so now it appears to work. Dunno about long-term though, but I have another 5 meters of wire to replace it with :-E

I also noted that making the ends soldered made the dremel cutting of the wire much more even!]]> mimarob Reprappers Thu, 20 Dec 2007 06:53:31 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7525#msg-7525 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7525#msg-7525 degroof Reprappers Tue, 18 Dec 2007 09:51:11 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7504#msg-7504 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7504#msg-7504
Yeah, I noticed the same thing when I JBed the radiator--entire top of it!--on my girlfriend's old Mistubishi Montero. Worked well but was always a bit soft till we drove the piss out of it for a while. I've heard you can machine the stuff but I would definatly want to bake it before I tried to take one of the school's machines to the stuff!

Demented]]> Demented Chihuahua Reprappers Mon, 17 Dec 2007 19:21:29 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7423#msg-7423 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7423#msg-7423
I obviously had to luxurious taste for this project. I got a hot-zinked wire at half the price of my previous stainless one, much easier to solder!]]> mimarob Reprappers Fri, 14 Dec 2007 15:38:37 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7382#msg-7382 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7382#msg-7382 nophead Reprappers Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:12:04 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7381#msg-7381 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7381#msg-7381
Demented]]> Demented Chihuahua Reprappers Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:07:45 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7365#msg-7365 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7365#msg-7365
I cut a cross in the end of my screw thread.
I roughed up the inside surface with a small spherical grinder.
I stuck it with JB Weld and held it in alignment in my lathe.
After letting it cure at room temperature for 15 hours I then baked it in the oven for two hours at 200C.

I did this mid August and it is still holding up.]]> nophead Reprappers Thu, 13 Dec 2007 07:08:46 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7356#msg-7356 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,7356,7356#msg-7356
Yesterday evening I had my first attemt to set the house on fire, thought the fire brigade might be more prepared during Xmas :-)

It seems quite possible to make the plumbing solder and fluss stick to the drive screw but I found it impossible to "wet" the 40mm wire part before torching it.

I feel a little confused, in the instructions for the extruder they warn you about going to heavy with the fluss, since that can make the flexible wire go stiff, but trying everything from a little heat to a red-glowing wire, the solder (silver-stannum I think) refused to stick.

I also used some fluss which caught fire if I used to much of it.

Maybe I'm using the wrong kind of wire, this was some $10 for 5 meter wire intended to use with boats.

Any suggestions? I obsiously need a wire that sucks the solder in.

Anyway it was quite fun yesterday. Today I bought a fire extinguisher...]]> mimarob Reprappers Thu, 13 Dec 2007 04:32:26 -0500