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        <title>Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
        <description> the print quality would be a little better if I used a belt &amp;amp; pulley instead of printed gears to rotate the bed

[attachment 105729 2.jpg]

[attachment 105731 1.jpg]</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826755#msg-826755</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2026 09:09:48 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,827011#msg-827011</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,827011#msg-827011</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Very Cool, Thanks for the details.. I've got a project for this.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>madmike8</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jun 2018 12:22:41 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826948#msg-826948</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826948#msg-826948</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ o_lampe is right, changing the y steps/mm each layer and giving the part a taper should work I think. It's a bit complex with so many changing variables so testing might be the simplest and most fool proof way to determine.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Trakyan</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jun 2018 05:03:38 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826921#msg-826921</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826921#msg-826921</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ In slic3r you can define the y-step/mm after each layer. That way you could compensate for the growing circumfence. <br />
But the e-steps would still be wrong I guess?<br />
The best way is to modify the .stl file and let it grow in Y with height. It's a constant factor, but I haven't had enough coffee yet to specify. ( something based on PI )<br />
Depending on the way you placed the origin of the bed, it should grow only in one direction ( when origin is at a corner ) or grow in both directions. ( when origin is at bed-center )]]></description>
            <dc:creator>o_lampe</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jun 2018 00:30:24 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826918#msg-826918</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826918#msg-826918</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think it's something the slicer rather than the part itself needs to compensate for. There no real way to compensate for the perimeter placement in the design other this other than having perimeters only perpendicular to the rotary axis (next to impossible).]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Trakyan</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2018 23:05:32 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826859#msg-826859</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826859#msg-826859</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>Trakyan</strong><br />
Out of curiosity, are you doing anything to compensate for the fact that as you go further out (z axis goes up) the circumference increases? If you slicer is assuming its constant then you'd end up under extruding and the gaps between extrusion lines that aren't perpendicular to the rotation axis will get bigger which I think I can see happening in the pictures. Otherwise awesome build.<br />
<br />
A quick and easy mod you could do is swap your gears for herringbone ones, that should help reduce some of the backlash/make gear mesh smoother.</div></blockquote>.   I've been sticking to shallow prints for now where the increase in height isn't noticeable. I'm not sure how to compensate for the increase in circumference although I was aware of that from the start.I think designing a part with this into consideration might be an option]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Shank man</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2018 10:34:18 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826852#msg-826852</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826852#msg-826852</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Out of curiosity, are you doing anything to compensate for the fact that as you go further out (z axis goes up) the circumference increases? If you slicer is assuming its constant then you'd end up under extruding and the gaps between extrusion lines that aren't perpendicular to the rotation axis will get bigger which I think I can see happening in the pictures. Otherwise awesome build.<br />
<br />
A quick and easy mod you could do is swap your gears for herringbone ones, that should help reduce some of the backlash/make gear mesh smoother.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Trakyan</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2018 09:17:37 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826841#msg-826841</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826841#msg-826841</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>madmike8</strong><br />
That’s pretty cool. You want to give us some details?</div></blockquote>
<br />
  The bed was cobbled together from a 160mm piece of 3" PVC pipe with <br />
some printed ends to hold a 8mm nut, a 230mm piece of 8mm threaded <br />
rod, a couple of 608zz bearings, a nema 17 motor and a limit switch. All <br />
left over material from past projects and rebuilds. The gears are nothing<br />
more than large Wades geared extruder gears. One modified to fit on a <br />
5mm motor shaft. I built the bed for curiositys sake and didn't want to <br />
spend a whole lot of money for a precise mechanism. Although now that I <br />
know it works I'm going to make a better setup. I'm open to suggestions <br />
by the way. <br />
<br />
     I set the axes travel limits in Teacup to 100 x 278 x 15. I might be<br />
able to get a little more travel in the X &amp; Z. 278mm is the OD of the 3" <br />
pipe. I'm using this bed on Ye Olde Prusa I2 and there isn't a whole lot of <br />
room to work with. The bed size in Slic3r was also set to these<br />
dimensions. In order to remove the print when its done, I wrapped the <br />
pipe with a piece of loose leaf paper and taped down the edges of the<br />
paper. I wrapped blue painters tape around the paper rather than applying <br />
it directly to the pipe. When the print is finished I peeled up the tape<br />
holding the paper and slid the print off of the pipe with no damage to the <br />
print. If a print sticks a little too good to the tape, I soak the print in some <br />
warm water to loosen up the tape and peel it off.<br />
<br />
    There is nothing special about the STL file. It is made to fit<br />
in the print area of the bed. It took some tweaking with the slicer settings <br />
to get a good first layer as the PVC pipe is not perfectly round. But PLA is <br />
a friendly material and pretty much sticks to everything. I did have to <br />
slow down the travel speed settings in Slic3r quite a bit.<br />
The teeth on the printed gears don't mesh quite so well and makes ripples<br />
in print. It would be easier for you to see if I had a better camera. I'll <br />
make it a point to get one.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ray<br />
<br />
[attachment 105755 3.jpg]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Shank man</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2018 07:19:03 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826783#msg-826783</guid>
            <title>Re: Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826783#msg-826783</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ That’s pretty cool. You want to give us some details?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>madmike8</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Jun 2018 18:12:58 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826755#msg-826755</guid>
            <title>Rotary Print Bed on a RepRap</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,826755,826755#msg-826755</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ the print quality would be a little better if I used a belt &amp; pulley instead of printed gears to rotate the bed<br />
<br />
[attachment 105729 2.jpg]<br />
<br />
[attachment 105731 1.jpg]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Shank man</dc:creator>
            <category>Reprappers</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Jun 2018 15:04:12 -0400</pubDate>
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