Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 Hello everyone, new to this forum and new to the world of 3D printers. I would like to start playing quickly, to learn slowly :) and therefore decided to buy a "cheap" chinese knock off but not a too bad one, like this: http://www.banggood.com/Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-Support-5-Filament-p-998030.html I am using SolidEdge as a CAD package. At first I don't really know what I will use it for. Parts to repair my 3D printer among other things ? As we deal withe molten plastic, I don't expect sub micron accuracy, 0.1mm is fair enough. PLA and ABS. Any one having experience with this company, their products ? What to watch for ? https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,606200#msg-606200 Tue, 14 Jul 2026 18:53:45 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,769274#msg-769274 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,769274#msg-769274
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Wildkata
I guess they heard you guys - mine arrived with lead screws for the Z axis. The smooth rods are not near as smooth as the G6 rods I bought. I will be miking them this evening, likely will be using the G6.

Wild

Must have been half asleep last time I looked. Definitely plain screw rod, not lead screws. Sorry bout that. The cheaper Flsun Aluminum i3 came with lead screws. Go figiure.]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Sun, 21 May 2017 04:04:32 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768626#msg-768626 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768626#msg-768626
Wild]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 19:20:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768522#msg-768522 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768522#msg-768522
a) high quality parts, vs crap from china. (makes such a difference)
b) the hidden cross bracing threw the power supply mount.
c) the firmware, many features that are not available in any other firmware, ie the auto alignment tests
d) electronics and cables harnesses all just plug together, no soldering and most are locking connecters, wont fall out.
e) The bed is genius, using the inherent accuracy of PCB manufacture to embed some position markers to help with calibration and alignment.. just brilliant!

I really like the mk2, my only niggle is I wish it was a 32bit controller, preferably smothieware.
The spool mount is crap...

NB there have been (may still be) 3rd parties making mk42 boards on kiskstarter... it is opensouce...]]> Dust Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 07:51:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768500#msg-768500 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768500#msg-768500
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Dust
That's just repstraps... see [reprap.org] for prusa

"How much change do you have to make to justify giving it your own name?" a significant contribution, or a really big ego!

Prusa basically designed the basic outline of most of the current machines,

I was surprised tonight while watching nillabean's stream just how primitive the Genuine MK2 is. I really wish they would sell their MK42 print plate so I could use their alignment test on my aluminum i3 and the designs bouncing around in my head.]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 05:27:43 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768496#msg-768496 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768496#msg-768496 reprap.org] for prusa

"How much change do you have to make to justify giving it your own name?" a significant contribution, or a really big ego!

Prusa basically designed the basic outline of most of the current machines,]]> Dust Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 05:14:23 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768488#msg-768488 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768488#msg-768488
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Dust
"H ave to second the comment that you need a 3D printer to make a 3D printer. Been puttering for five years.."

nah see repstrap...

it just makes it far easier! (and yes I did it this way, but cheated on the extruder, but could have used wood)

Looks like a good resource, thank you. It's amazing what can be learned on eBay too, and YouTube. This thread has given much.

I'm surprised Prusa is not on that wiki. How much change do you have to make to justify giving it your own name?

Wild]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 04:43:13 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768467#msg-768467 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768467#msg-768467
nah see repstrap...

it just makes it far easier! (and yes I did it this way, but cheated on the extruder, but could have used wood)]]> Dust Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 02:20:36 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768464#msg-768464 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768464#msg-768464
Not I'm pondering how to set up a cat proof assembly area. Don't have spare room to dedicate. My cat loves to play with my toys. His name, Enre is pronounceable two ways - the second is Ornery. I am sure he wants to be a people. I showed him how bubble wrap pops. He is so frustrated that all off his manipulators have sharp points. He brings me flat sheets and wants more whenever I get some.

Have to second the comment that you need a 3D printer to make a 3D printer. Been puttering for five years..

While researching the published problems with this kit I think I have some innovations to add to the art that I can test on this machine after I use it improve itself and then to build another..

Wild]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 17 May 2017 01:28:57 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768072#msg-768072 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768072#msg-768072 VonRansak Prusa i3 and variants Mon, 15 May 2017 02:02:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768067#msg-768067 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,768067#msg-768067
Has any body tried to to file or drill a stepper motor rotor?]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Mon, 15 May 2017 01:03:20 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767606#msg-767606 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767606#msg-767606 Fair dinkum mate.]]> bernbout Prusa i3 and variants Fri, 12 May 2017 13:19:28 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767597#msg-767597 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767597#msg-767597
Just slow brown land yachts.]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Fri, 12 May 2017 12:46:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767559#msg-767559 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767559#msg-767559
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bernbout
Don't forget to share your idea here if it works out.

Back to the drawing board on that. Anti-backlash works different than I was envisioning.

I got the idea somewhere that you are down under but you wrote guy instead of bloke or mate?]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Fri, 12 May 2017 10:39:57 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767547#msg-767547 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767547#msg-767547
Yes I forgot to mention squaring the vertical frame to the horizontal base. Caused me a lot of problems leveling the bed because of skewing.

That video of the "dancing" of the rods I borrowed from another guy. My rods did not dance so much and were quite straight. It was the coupler - that cylindrical springy thingi that connects the rods to the motor shaft - that induced the z banding as I could never get them both perfectly square. I printed a set of self centering couplers and that together with the de-coupler thingi fixed the z banding for me.

I have since made a number of "improvements" for my printer especially the noise of the bearings.
Checkout [www.thingiverse.com]]]> bernbout Prusa i3 and variants Fri, 12 May 2017 09:34:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767492#msg-767492 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767492#msg-767492
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bernbout
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Wildkata
New guy on the list. Retired electronics and manufacturing engineering tech.

1. I hope to bypass the z band problem from the git-go.
Wild

Also no one at home has the equipment to ensure that every thing in a DIY printer is perfectly square. Hence there is bound to be some banding. All we can do is reduce it to the max extent possible. So using straight lead screws instead of threaded rods that are more prone to bending, properly coupling it to the motor etc. will certainly reduce banding. But to reduce it even further, you MUST decouple the Z Axis from the X axis, a tried and tested method I have used and linked to earlier in this post.

Hope you have every success with your new printer.

Again, thank you. From previous projects I have some nice tools that should help. A very true running Taig micro lathe, 12 inch vernier caliper, a set of metric thread chasers and a laser level. A dozen carbon fiber arrows with six unmolested and the other six don't shoot very well. With a left hand tap and a bag of left hand nuts on hand, four of them are going to become nifty turnbuckles to triangulate my frame if needed. I woke from my last sleep with an idea for a simple and reasonable $-wise X-Z decoupler that dare I say may be a tad more elegant than yours (if it works (it will have an anti-backlash component (Hi SAM))). I think from the wobble visible in your video, you could benefit from a little eyeball chiropractic on your screws. You might have some minor Z jitter from that much wobble. Another design I found on YouTube tonight via Thomas Sanladerer, the iTopie i3, Does not constrain the top end of the Z screws. Might have some merit, but not while your nuts are floating. [reprap.org]

Another thing I think I'll try is to get some 6>5 couplers in the same design as used and tap the 6mm end to 8mm in the lathe.]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Fri, 12 May 2017 05:10:49 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767450#msg-767450 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767450#msg-767450
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Wildkata
New guy on the list. Retired electronics and manufacturing engineering tech.

1. I hope to bypass the z band problem from the git-go.
2. that might even almost pass scrutiny by anonymous
Wild

1. While using lead screws that are hopefully straight will alleviate the z banding to a high degree, IMHO it will not completely remove it. The simple reason is that all it takes is for the leadscrew (given that it is perfectly straight) to be coupled to the motor but not be perfectly perpendicular if even a fraction of a degree. off. There are other factors too that could influence z banding.

Since we are dealing in measurements as small as .01 of a mm, even a tiny deviation from the vertical will induce some form of "dancing" in the lead screws. While this may not be noticeable to the naked eye, it will certainly be more at the top end of the lead screw than at the coupler end. As the X axis rises with every layer, the deviation will be that much more. Due to the design of the Prusa i3 with the Lead screws (Z Axis) permanently "joined" to the X axis by the lead screw nuts, this "dancing" has nowhere to go but be transferred into the X axis as Z Banding in your print. The more the movement of the lead screws, the more pronounced the banding.

Also no one at home has the equipment to ensure that every thing in a DIY printer is perfectly square. Hence there is bound to be some banding. All we can do is reduce it to the max extent possible. So using straight lead screws instead of threaded rods that are more prone to bending, properly coupling it to the motor etc. will certainly reduce banding. But to reduce it even further, you MUST decouple the Z Axis from the X axis, a tried and tested method I have used and linked to earlier in this post.

2. Regarding Mr. Anonymous, he is a troll and a SAM - A Split-Arse Mechanic , similar to the idiots you alluded to in your previous post who thought they knew better. He is listed as Anonymous here because he was kicked off this forum for trolling. He even followed me on Thingiverse and tried troll me there with his crap.

Hope you have every success with your new printer.]]> bernbout Prusa i3 and variants Thu, 11 May 2017 21:36:32 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767217#msg-767217 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767217#msg-767217
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Wildkata
New guy on the list. Retired electronics and manufacturing engineering tech.

Could someone tell me the length of the lead screws please. I'm considering buying the aluminum model and would like to order proper lead screws at the same time.

Ray

Thank you bernbout.

My printer is on order and so are my T8 lead screws. The lead screws were only $7.52 each w / shipping. I hope to bypass the z band problem from the git-go.

Should be here in a week.

I have another idea that might give acceptable results with the supplied lead screws that might even almost pass scrutiny by anonymous.

I once replaced over $70 worth of swagelock stainless fittings X 80 machines ($5600+) with a $0.06 plastic part ($4.80. + a $3.00 installation tool). The department manager (engineer + MBA) said YEAH!. The lead tech said her first impression was no way but then came around. The "we've always done it this way" crowd went ballistic. I was told by one of the techs that accepted my solution, after the three of us left those machines were quickly "repaired properly" even though none of them had failed.

Wild]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 10 May 2017 21:23:29 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767034#msg-767034 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767034#msg-767034 Like this:
[www.aliexpress.com]]]> bernbout Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 10 May 2017 00:13:50 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767020#msg-767020 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,767020#msg-767020
Could someone tell me the length of the lead screws please. I'm considering buying the aluminum model and would like to order proper lead screws at the same time.

Ray]]> Wildkata Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 09 May 2017 22:00:28 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,666343#msg-666343 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,666343#msg-666343
I have yet to get my lead screws but I was able to resolve my wobble issue. My problem was twofold 1) The X belt was rubbing inside the X carriage 2) The X Belt was way to tight.

Once I fixed these two things I am printing without shifts. I still have the Z-Wobble though but now I can print parts that are strait.

EDIT

Until my lead screws come I thought I would try bernbout Z-Wobble mod again. I am getting very good prints now. No banding!

Thanks for the help.]]> F91W Prusa i3 and variants Sat, 21 May 2016 18:55:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,660100#msg-660100 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,660100#msg-660100 Printing a 20mm Hollow cube for each reseat (I just had it already downloaded).

[attachment 77535 Geeetech_i3_A-03.png][attachment 77536 Geeetech_i3_A-04.png]

It is hard to tell with the image but the 'Z-Axis Nut' is more square but has the 'Z Banding'.
The 'Floating Nut' is smoother but X-Axis is swayed and shifted (Worse on the first few Z-Levels).

If getting a 'Lead Screw' would remove the banding I would rather go for that approach as the 'Z-Axis Nut' is more square.

I am sorry if I have missed any instructions in your replies.]]> F91W Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 04 May 2016 08:12:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,660018#msg-660018 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,660018#msg-660018
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F91W
Thank you for your replies MKSA and bernbout.

Just as an FYI this is my first RepRap printer and I am fairly new to the community.

To answer your questions bernbout:
1. This is what I have printed - [www.thingiverse.com]
2. I have the Geeetech Full Aluminum - v2 I think as there is only one printed part.
3. I'll do this once I am home.
4. Well both. The yellow was what I was concerned with first as the red I think is caused by vibrations from the threaded rod clipping the holder.

I did purchase a new threaded rod set from the local hardware store as the ones that came with the printer where bent. Now that I know about the lead screws that is looking like a good option. Is it safe to buy them from china or is it worth the extra money to buy them local?
From what you have said bernbout, I have not followed the correct procedure on coupler. I tightened the large screw first but I did not alternate with the small screw as I got tighter to prevent bending of the coupler. I did lift the rod about 2mm before tightening though.

Get real Tr8 lead screws, they are really 8mm diam. You will never get perfect alignment with the coupler and M8 threaded rod (7.8mm diam) which are to hold things together, NOT move them. You can buy them locally or from China, but in this case, you never know. I did it and got the right stuff.
As for the coupler, you have to thighten the big screw that will squeeze the rod and align it somewhat (these couplers are OK here though), the grub screw is not even necessary on the Tr8 side. A grub screw will always misalign the parts, so tolerances have to be tight in order to prevent this. You DON'T alternate the big screw and the grub screw !!!

Slight misalignment will be taken care of by the flexible couplers (it is why they are flexible) and the vertical linear guides which are there to prevent all movement but the vertical one. Make sure there is no play there.
Note that the lateral play of the lead screw nut allows small misalignment too (in fact the part you printed does just that !) and because the nature of the Z movement doesn't require antibacklash, don't install one !

Sad to say, but the majority of people giving advices on forum don't know much, often devise irrelevant if not complex solutions to alleviate problems without first trying to reduce if not eliminate them !

Have a look at how real machines are made by professionals, from a CD Rom drive, printer to a lathe, CNC ....]]> Anonymous User Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 04 May 2016 03:46:24 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659942#msg-659942 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659942#msg-659942
Just as an FYI this is my first RepRap printer and I am fairly new to the community.

To answer your questions bernbout:
1. This is what I have printed - [www.thingiverse.com]
2. I have the Geeetech Full Aluminum - v2 I think as there is only one printed part.
3. I'll do this once I am home.
4. Well both. The yellow was what I was concerned with first as the red I think is caused by vibrations from the threaded rod clipping the holder.

I did purchase a new threaded rod set from the local hardware store as the ones that came with the printer where bent. Now that I know about the lead screws that is looking like a good option. Is it safe to buy them from china or is it worth the extra money to buy them local?
From what you have said bernbout, I have not followed the correct procedure on coupler. I tightened the large screw first but I did not alternate with the small screw as I got tighter to prevent bending of the coupler. I did lift the rod about 2mm before tightening though.]]> F91W Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 03 May 2016 20:22:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659819#msg-659819 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659819#msg-659819
So your X axis is shifting.

At the outset let me make it clear that I am a hobbist 3D Printer and make no pretensions of being a SAMK (Split-Ass-Mechanik). I understand that you have come here because you have a problem and do not want to be treated like a child with a "I told you so" crappy attitude.

Ok so your prints have improved after the mod. Mine were great before and now the Z axis has totally smoothed out. Photos and light angles do not give the quality justice. But here goes.
Here are a couple of prints of a 20mm cube I did as a test just yesterday. I did this because I had some feed problems with my extruder jamming and dismantled and cleaned up my extruder and nozzle and so did these prints. The results are self evident.

[attachment 77500 bbCube.jpg]

[attachment 77501 bbCube2.jpg]

Both are @ 0.2mm layer resolution.

Remember this cube is only 20mm square. In real life you can hardly see any Z lines.

I see that there is some sort of edge movement in your print. You must realise that to get any proper solution, I must know exactly what you are seeing. It is difficult to express this in words but a picture = 1000 words :) I will try, with my limited experience, to assist you, but I need more info.

Some Q.
1. How big is your model. In mm (X,Y,Z) please
2. Do you have the same printer (Geeetech Full Aluminium) or some other printer.
3. Can you post a photo of the X Axis where it joins the Y axis of your printer? Also post a photo of the corner of your object - The X/Y corner so it is easier to see the actual shift.
4. Is it this circled part in RED you are having the "shifting" problem with or is it the part in the Yellow highlihght?

[attachment 77505 Image1.jpg]

Ok, it is well known that Threaded rods are not actually designed for this printing purpose and a Lead screw is better. In a lot of cases the T rod is slightly bent and being FIXED to the X axis the way it is, any wobble is transferred to the the X axis from the "wobble" of the Z axis. Secondly, the coupler, is not a proper fit and if that is not ABSOLUTELY vertical to the X axis, it will induce wobble into Z which gets transferred to the X.

To see this clearly, now that you have the mod in place, manually, using the software, raise the X axis in the Z direction by say 10mm and watch the plastic thingi you printed where it is screwed to the T rod. You will, in most cases, see it "dancing" around as the X axis rises. This is the Z wobble that gets transferred to the X axis and causes the lines in your print.

Given that you are usually printing @ 0.2 mm, even if your assembly is even slightly off, the result is Z wobble. My "fix" is just that - a fix to alleviate an otherwise severe design fault coupled with manufacturing faults.

From your photos you posted, it looks like you have a very SEVERE case of Z wobble, even with the mod in place, that has been alleviated some by the mod as even with the mod, your Z is not really smooth as it should be. This would be due to 1. bent rods 2. improper assembly (coupler)

Here's what I suggest you do:
1. Remove the Threaded rods and roll them on a glass surface slowly and lower your eye down to the glass level. You should be able to see if they are reasonably straight. If not, then try and straighten them out carefully without damaging the threads.
2. With the rods in place and straightened, take care that they are fixed vertically in the coupler. If you have the same printer as mine, then earlier in this thread I posted how and the sequence of tightening the coupler. If there is any play between the coupler and the rod, when you tighten the smaller screw to fix the coupler to the rod, it has a tendency, because of the flex design, to twist. It will tighten, but will not be perfectly vertical, having pushed the rod up against the other side of the coupler inner diameter. When at rest, the rod is now not vertical. Some of this the flex in the coupler takes care of and most the mod, but this is not good.

[attachment 77503 Image2.jpg]

Of course do this on both sides.

So tighten the large screw first to reduce the inner dia. of the coupler. Then tighten the smaller screw just enough that it just about grips the rod without slipping. Now raise the X axis up and down a few times to "Settle" this and then tighten the screw fully, but TAKE CARE THAT THE coupler does not "flex" as it will as this will throw the T screw off the vertical when you stop tightening and the coupler "unflexes".

Now raise the X axis, and watch the joint. If there is a lot of wobble then the rods are not yet straight or not vertical or the coupler flexed etc. Loosen and try again. The X axis should ride up the T rod with the least amount of wobble noticeable for the mod to have any effect.

Now, as to the shifting, if your model prints up to a certain height correctly and then there is a "shift" and it continues to print in this shifted position, then this could be caused by some damage to the threads. One way to check is to print a vertical object like this one [attachment 77504 20x50mmRect.stl]

After printing, remove the object, move the STL object to a different area of the bed and reprint. Do this in about 3 or 4 places on your bed. Note the height where the "shift" in the model occurs on the X axis. If it happens to all the models at exactly the same height, then you know that there is something on either of the rods that is causing this shift. Measure how high up it happens and focus your attention on the Z rods at that height. Look for kinks or any thread damage.

See here the topic - Layer Shifting or Misalignment - [www.geeetech.com]

and also here - [support.3dverkstan.se]

Make getting new Lead screws your last resort. Provided they are actually absolutely straight, and provided you can recalculate and re-enter the new settings into your printer, you would still have to fix them VERTICALLY in your couplers. They will, if manufactured correctly, give a better performance that the current threaded rods but only if they are perfectly straight, and fixed vertically. You can start looking here:
[www.ebay.com.au] but get the best quality you can afford. For this printer you need 300mm x 2.

Just remember that just a difference of ONLY 0.5 degrees (1/2 degrees) off the vertical at the coupler end and the top of the 300mm Lead screw will be about 2.5mm off vertical that can adversely affect your prints, because this gives you a net wobble on the Z axis of about 5 mm. For a 0.2mm layer that is HUGE.

So will you get it absolutely vertical? Exactly @ 90 degrees to the X axis? Never. In your dreams. But you can get it as close as possible and then the Z wobble mod will do the rest.

Finally, if you are getting that same shift at exactly the same height on all models, then I suspect some imperfection in the threads of your Z rod. Check it. Fix it or replace it.

Come back here with your answers and any more questions. Happy to help and not criticize. If you succeed I would like to hear how you did that as well.

Cheers & Good luck.]]> bernbout Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 03 May 2016 12:27:07 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659757#msg-659757 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659757#msg-659757 See what I did although you don't have to modify as much. Just that I wanted to get the most of my printer.]]> Anonymous User Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 03 May 2016 09:16:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659710#msg-659710 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659710#msg-659710 I am getting better results with the mod but if there is a better way I will happily do it.

Look forward to your answer!

Edit:

Adding images of the issue.
Sorry if potato quality.

x-axis shifting
[attachment 77493 Geeetech_i3_A-01.png]

y-axis smooth
[attachment 77494 Geeetech_i3_A-02.png]

I am getting this fuzziness too as you can see]]> F91W Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 03 May 2016 07:48:07 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659681#msg-659681 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659681#msg-659681
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F91W
I am having an issue where it seems my x-axis is curling as the z-axis goes up.
It is very slight but noticeable.

I am using bernbout mod for z banding so I am think my threaded rod is still hitting my x-axis carriage.

I'll upload a picture later of a print and my setup later as I am at work.

Does anyone have some steps I could go through to troubleshoot the issue?

If you don't use proper solution, don't be surprised to get mediocre results.]]> Anonymous User Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 03 May 2016 06:34:49 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659578#msg-659578 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,659578#msg-659578 It is very slight but noticeable.

I am using bernbout mod for z banding so I am think my threaded rod is still hitting my x-axis carriage.

I'll upload a picture later of a print and my setup later as I am at work.

Does anyone have some steps I could go through to troubleshoot the issue?]]> F91W Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 03 May 2016 00:23:50 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,658196#msg-658196 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,658196#msg-658196 So from the original MK8 plus carriage 650g, I am now down to 280g.
[attachment 77275 P1020149.JPG]
To gain more requires a new kind of motor, an other time so.
The hotend, still the one supplied, needs some attention now. Moving speed is great but quality extrusion has to follow.

The Y axis should shed some weight too but so far, as I can print at 120mm/s (twice the speed the printer was set for) with good results, 180mm/s for prototyping, it will wait.

The Y moving bed is a major drawback of the Prusa design if we aim for speed. Not a blame as it is a trade off for simplicity.]]> Anonymous User Prusa i3 and variants Fri, 29 Apr 2016 02:42:38 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,657057#msg-657057 Re: Geeetech-Aluminum-Prusa-I3 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,606200,657057#msg-657057 Details in the discussion: 100gr extruder

Just rerun the test at 3 times the standard Prusa I3 speed.
Light Extruder. Fr 300%
Result, Square Cal, Fr x 3
[attachment 77122 P1020142.JPG]

New extruder frame, (printed at 100mm/s) to move gravity center closer to guides with same holes spacing as NEMA17.

[attachment 77123 P1020148.JPG]]]> Anonymous User Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 26 Apr 2016 12:03:22 -0400