New P3Steel build Hi to all, I'm approaching to the RepRap World, so I wish to discuss with you my build. The first assembling test, only to test the proper frame alignment. [attachment 95466 p3s1.jpg] The frame I've bought from a Lithuanian seller, and has a Z top plate somewhat different from those I've seen on the net. This is a zooming of the part, I will make a support for the 625ZZ bearing to suspend the Z threaded rods as a rod that is "pulled" is more stable than a rod pushed (try to push a rod and it will bend) [attachment 95467 p3s2.jpg] Some wiring done I've managed to get some blue wiring protection, I have to made some extender from the RAMPS to homemade breadboard with screw terminals. [attachment 95468 p3s3.jpg] This is the first problem with the building, my motor is a 48 mm one and the Toolson Y endstop support is not adeguate as it position the endstop wires too near the back of the motor, this is probably one of the first part that I've to print when the printer is ready. [attachment 95469 p3s4.jpg] The back of the X carriage, it lacks of an LM8UU that is defective so I've ordered some replacements. The lower washers mantains in place the belts, the uppers probably have to be changed with some smaller ones. [attachment 95470 p3s5.jpg] For now it all stay tuned, as I've some hints to ask and some modification to show. https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,774349#msg-774349 Thu, 05 Mar 2026 06:05:50 -0500 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,824096#msg-824096 Re: New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,824096#msg-824096
PhotoDescription
[attachment 105324 p3s17.jpg]New fuse holder.

Stackable Automotive type, very cheap 0.50 Euro each.

New printed fuse holder mount, with a p3steel look, this was the first ABS printing test, it was not too bad, but it is not perfect, maybe some tweking in the Slic3r setting are needed, but apart from the ahestethic is very strong (Spanish ABS-HI).
[attachment 105323 p3s18.jpg]Installed a capacitive probe for ABL 18mm one.

Powered at 12V and with same diode hack used to achieve level conversion for the ESP12E.

[attachment 105322 p3s19.jpg]New placement of power wirings.
[attachment 105321 p3s20.jpg]New extruder.

It is a cheap chinese one modified replacing the gear with MK8 type, new plain bearing and a less stronger spring.
[attachment 105320 p3s21.jpg]Installed a retainer screw on the Z axis nylon nuts.

Otherwise the nylon nut tends to slips off the hole.



Regards

Carlo D.]]> onekk Prusa i3 and variants Thu, 31 May 2018 12:30:05 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,820076#msg-820076 Re: New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,820076#msg-820076
[attachment 104545 WiresESP12E.png]


Here the schematics of the MKS BASE V1.2 modified with the correct pin assignement.

[attachment 104546 MKS_GEN-PIN.png]

The MKS BASE pins are the correct pin so RX0 and TX0 are the RX0 and TX0 pin of the Atmega 2560 the same where the FTDI chip is connected.

To wire the ESP12E module you have to connect the ESP12E RX pin to the TX pin of the board and the ESP12E TX pin to the RX pin of the board.

The diode trick work in this manner, when the atmega send a LOW signal it pull to the GND the TX pin, the ESP12E has an internal pullup resistor and the 3.3V goes to the GND trough the diode and the ESP12E receive a LOW signal, when the atmega is sending a 5V to the diode, (HIGH) the 3.3V can't flow to nowhere as the atmega side is at a much higher voltage than the 3.3V and the diode is not conducting, so the ESP12E reads a HIGH signal.

The ESP12E TX level is enough to trigger a HIGH signal to the atmega RX port, so no problem here.

Regards

Carlo D.]]> onekk Prusa i3 and variants Wed, 25 Apr 2018 10:03:16 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,818096#msg-818096 Re: New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,818096#msg-818096 dc42 Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 10 Apr 2018 16:05:11 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,818069#msg-818069 Re: New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,818069#msg-818069 ESP-12E with this firmware loaded ESP3D is working, one minor glitch is the wrong communication pin assignement connection now some testing and then some printing.

PhotoDescription
[attachment 104172 p3s14a.jpg]The IP adress shown on the display
[attachment 104173 p3s15a.jpg]The Breadborad with the ESP-12E, a 5v to 3.3V converter and 4 10K resistors, two 220uF condenser, 1 1n4148 diode for the shift level conversion on RX pin of the ESP-12E, and a push button for the reset of the ESP-12E
[attachment 104174 p3s16a.jpg]The connession on AUX 1, blue wire on row 2is the TX pin, white wire on row 2 is the RX pin of the ESP-12E


It's a very good sensation to control the 3D printer from a computer with wifi (maybe i will search for a android app to use and old tablet to make a control display)]]> onekk Prusa i3 and variants Tue, 10 Apr 2018 13:03:21 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,817706#msg-817706 Re: New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,817706#msg-817706 Photo Description [attachment 104091 p3s7a.jpg] A little close up of the electronics with the power regulator and the ftdi communication chip. [attachment 104115 p3s8.jpg] A general view of the control board it's a MKS GEN v1.2 (very cheap, around 25 Euro)

BELOW: there is the Sevenswitch MOSFET borad (the light brown one) and the 5v fly down regulator. [attachment 104116 p3s9.jpg] A view of the electric connession block for ring or spade connectors.

LEFT: the 5A automotive fuse that bring the 12V positive to the H0 HotEnd, This is done on pourpose, as not passing the 12V positive power to the board fuse, doing so if some went wrong the automotive fuse blow and you can replace it an see what element is the culprit. [attachment 104117 p3s10.jpg] A view of the fuse holders for the fans, the automotive fuses are too big to protect the fans that absorb 0.1 - 0.2 A max each, i have used 300mA fuse,

LEFT: Screw connectors for E0 E1 and X axis.

RIGHT: "RRD fan extender" that drives the two extruder fans using "AUX 1" pins 57 and 58

BELOW: Red wire that exit from the screw teminal bring the 12V through an automotive fuse to the H0 HotEnd, that you see in the preceding image

More to come ....]]> onekk Prusa i3 and variants Sun, 08 Apr 2018 06:34:32 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,815752#msg-815752 Re: New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,815752#msg-815752
I have found that the bearing on the top are F625ZZ (with a little flange) but sadly the threaded rods are a little short.

I have "tested" the machine, but during the initial setup phase some went wrong and I fried the Arduino Mega (hope not the new DRV8825 drivers I have just purchased).

I have ordered an MKS GEN v1.2 board, hope that it is more compact and with better thermal performaces than the Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4, on paper (and photos) it seem that the MOSFET are three IRLB8473 and one much bigger for the heatbed, (it has a configuration of D7 = H0 D10 =H1 D9 = FAN D8 = BED) but i think i will reuse the external "Gen 7 MOSFET" to mantain some thermal separation, as I've noted that most of the failure are generally cused by the Heatbed MOSFET becoming HOT (10 or more Ampere DC) or by some failures in the screw terminal connections causing them to heat and burn.

The goal is to achieve a somewhat roughness wiring all the 12V positives separately and relying on automotive fuses on the lines (5A for the Hotend and 10/15A for the hotend) and using only the negative connections on the board.

I plan to drive the two Hotend fans through two spare pins on AUX1 (D57 and D58) with a RRD board mountend with a small riser to use "non standard" pins, the RRD is meant to be used on the servo output but these are "needed" by some other hardware I have planned to implement in future.

For the HotBed and the Controller fan i plan to utilize two other spare pins (D59 and D64) on AUX2, the controller is driven by an IRF520 chinese boards and plan to use them to drive like in the RAMPS setup.

Now I'm waiting for the material I have purchased online to implement the new electronics and in the meantime I will rewire the machine for using the new electronics.]]> onekk Prusa i3 and variants Sat, 24 Mar 2018 04:05:27 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,774349#msg-774349 New P3Steel build https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?406,774349,774349#msg-774349
The first assembling test, only to test the proper frame alignment.

[attachment 95466 p3s1.jpg]

The frame I've bought from a Lithuanian seller, and has a Z top plate somewhat different from those I've seen on the net.

This is a zooming of the part, I will make a support for the 625ZZ bearing to suspend the Z threaded rods as a rod that is "pulled" is more stable than a rod pushed (try to push a rod and it will bend)


[attachment 95467 p3s2.jpg]


Some wiring done I've managed to get some blue wiring protection, I have to made some extender from the RAMPS to homemade breadboard with screw terminals.

[attachment 95468 p3s3.jpg]

This is the first problem with the building, my motor is a 48 mm one and the Toolson Y endstop support is not adeguate as it position the endstop wires too near the back of the motor, this is probably one of the first part that I've to print when the printer is ready.

[attachment 95469 p3s4.jpg]

The back of the X carriage, it lacks of an LM8UU that is defective so I've ordered some replacements.

The lower washers mantains in place the belts, the uppers probably have to be changed with some smaller ones.

[attachment 95470 p3s5.jpg]

For now it all stay tuned, as I've some hints to ask and some modification to show.]]> onekk Prusa i3 and variants Thu, 22 Jun 2017 08:20:22 -0400