Reprap Forum - Prusa i3 and variants

X axis moves toward end stop when controlling Y axis after marlin update? (1 reply)

LarryStein — Fri, 19 Jun 2026 00:55:56 -0400

As per the title. I've been using the same install of marlin for about 5-6 years now and thought it would be a good idea to update it. I'm pretty sure I configured it properly but if you know what ADHD is like you know I could have made errors. My X axis moves towards its end stop everytime I move the Y or X axis, in either direction, in cura. Y axis moves as it is told but the X axis only goes toward the endstop. Any idea what I f'd up?

Trying tô increse maximum temperatura of the hotend (3 replies)

Henrique — Fri, 14 Mar 2025 18:59:06 -0400

Hi everyone!
I have a Reprap Prusa printer, and I am trying to increase the maximum temperatura of the hotend, but did not succeed, yet.
I have noticed that in Marlin this temperature is set to be 250 degrees Celsius, but, effectively, It is just allowed to reach 235.
Is there any way to set this temperature higher? Maybe 255 degrees?
Thanks!

Geeetech I3 Pro B problems after updating (11 replies)

tag1260 — Mon, 24 Feb 2025 17:36:44 -0500

Tried to update firmware on my Geeetech I3 Pro B and created problems. I do not have BL Touch nor any other type of auto leveling. My bed will not home AND my z axis is moving about 10x what it should. Anybody able to guide me as to what I've done wrong? I know it has to be in the firmware but have no idea what I need to change. Thanks

What a 3D Printer should and should not sound like. (no replies)

Roberts_Clif — Fri, 07 Feb 2025 16:55:26 -0500

This is the same 3D Printer before an after adjusting, cleaning an lubricating.

What a 3D Printer should not sound like.
After Cleaning, lubricating and adjusting belts. Using a Kobra 3 Smooth Bed.

After posting i decided this also shows another thing what your video should should look like

Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo (11 replies)

Roberts_Clif — Thu, 03 Sep 2026 22:15:03 -0400

Purchased a couple of Anycubic Kobra 3 combos the other day they will be arriving soon.
This will allow me to print using two 4 color printers or one mono printer and one 8 color printer if desired..

Will keep my Hictops 3DP11/12's for Now though my nephew will receive one for his uses.
My Home brew CoreXY Hictop will be repurposed into a CNC. May try to use it for both wood and Aluminum modeling.

My remaining Hictop's may be refitted given Different hot-ends have already given one a Flexible spring steel bed surface.
Don't know how long hotbeds last, they have worked 9 years, not bad for 1-2 hundred dollar 2nd hand Printers.
And for a couple years they were running 24/7. They are still fairly level this is the reason for Spring steel bed surfaces.
Trying to get the longest life I can out of them. Though when they have made their final 3D Print I will know.

My newest 3D Printers will out print the old ones by far, may not even need the old ones. May purchase another new one.
Soon I will be able to print even more, mono or colored at a faster pace.

My Hictop 1st PETG print (no replies)

Roberts_Clif — Mon, 09 Dec 2024 20:16:19 -0500

Well just printed my very first small model using pink PETG.

[attachment 121267 1STPETG.jpg]

I printed it a little below temp to see what happens, as it was melting at 200C

Nozzle temp 226C
Bed temp 56C

Looks good!!! For my fist PETG should have printed about 10% slower but temps look good.
Forgot to fix my leaky nozzle, And discovered that it is only the nozzle leaking.

Retractable Purge Mechanism (1 reply)

Roberts_Clif — Tue, 05 Nov 2024 09:03:39 -0500

Today I am looking into a Retractable Purge Mechanism.

This one to be exact link. Before I waste my time was hoping to get some opinions on what you think or if you have tried one for your opinion.

Stainless steel magnitic bed on Hictop 3DP11/12 (1 reply)

Roberts_Clif — Mon, 04 Nov 2024 07:01:15 -0500

I have installed the first flexible magnetic stainless steel bed.
The steel plates have much more sensitivity to my proximity sensor making them detect this plate 2mm before the Heated aluminum bed.

Along with the fact the my y axis belt clamp was extremely loose caused me some problems.
1st the proximity sensor detected the bed outside the area I could address with z-offset adjustment in marlin.
This made me manually adjust the sensor closer to the bed for the z-offset too function correctly.

2nd the loose Y-axis belt clamp allowed layer shift to occur, this made me think the stainless steel build plate was shifting on magnetic bed.

It was a very learn ed experience especially after not 3D Printing for 2.5 years, it was almost like learning the entire 3D Printer from the beginning.

After 5 failed spool holder misprints finally have a single working magnetic bed 3D printer.
Three to go.

Updating an old i3 (no replies)

eatumup — Wed, 10 Apr 2024 11:37:47 -0400

I got an old Folger Tech Prusia i3 back in 2015. Its an old arduino mega with merlin firmware.

The thing is still running strong, but its time to give it some updates. The problem is that I haven't kept up with the DIY side and am not sure where to start and what I can do.

Id like to add auto bed leveling and perhaps filament empty detection.

What i dont know is what parts or what to look for in parts that would even be compatible with my system I have doubts that my firmware would be with compatible with modern parts and what to update the firmware to if that's a thing. If even updating the firmware is an option, I bet id need some kind of different hat for it. I suppose I could update the entire controller itself, but again dont know whats good and bad at the moment.

Im hoping for any pointers and suggestions. Is there something to look for in comparability? Suggestions on a firmware? or has the scene changed enough that it would make more sense to start over and buy something new off the shelf?

Back to 3D Printing (no replies)

Roberts_Clif — Thu, 22 Feb 2024 20:32:52 -0500

I have been without my 3D Printers for about 2 years now.

Why the home I was living in had no room for them!!!

Finally I have made room and look like the home they were in caused a little damage.
Need to 3D Print some broken parts, and give them all some extra careful maintenance inspections.
Then I will be back in to my 3D Printing hobby.

IX3 Acrylic Frame Template (no replies)

AintISocial — Thu, 22 Feb 2024 11:57:51 -0500

So I recently came up on a box of stuff for free that was said to be a complete printer. Upon investigation, I appears to be a but the frame is incomplete and broken. Is there a template for the framework?

è: I think I will just make a metal frame so disregard...

Updating my prusa i3 (no replies)

Progr3ss — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 15:06:26 -0500

Hi all,
I built a prusa i3 some 10 years ago. It started life with an hotend made with a air hose end with teflon insert and wire wrapped around it. It would print for a week and then I would have to wrap another one. I upgraded to an e3d style (j head?) and printed for a while with a Greg Wade extruder, with a clip to hold the thing together. Not great, it wiggled and jammed often.
So when I decided to revive this and start working on the printer again I looked to upgrade to something a bit better.

I printed out the latest Prusa Mk3s extruder and hotend and x carriage. Its different. I really like the bondtech gears. I do not like how the extruder and hotend holder are bolted to the x carriage ( it makes any change require removing belts and the x carriage)

I guess my question is really, what are the go to x carriage, hotend, and extruders of today?

Thanks,
Scot

Where is Pin 29 on a ANET3D V1.-5. board (needed for BL-Touch) (5 replies)

Corpsman — Tue, 16 Jan 2024 03:54:07 -0500

Hello Community,

I am more a Hobbyist than a pro, but since 5 Years a owner of a Anet E10 printer, and it all worked. During the Christmas season i decided to add a new feature to my printer. The Bed Leveling.

So i first replaced the Firmware with the Marlin 2.? Software. Next i designed and printed all adapters needed to mount the BL-Touch to my printer and mounted it. Then i followed this instructions ( [www.cazda.com] ) which says

#define SERVO0_PIN 27

After Uploading the new Firmware nothing worked and i started searching the web, why.
I ended up with this video: [www.youtube.com] And at the very end the author said that he needed to change the pin from 27 to 29 in order to get it to work. Then i checked the "pins_ANET_10.h" file, and yes there it stands:

// Line 202
#define SERVO0_PIN 29

So i think the SW-Part i get managed. But i did not find any information, where that pin 29 is physically on my board and where to solder the control wire of the BL-Touch onto my board. Can anyone of you help me ?

reviveing my i3 hephestos with the bq marlin firmware (2 replies)

da_reida — Wed, 01 Nov 2023 18:19:59 -0400

Hey, i hope you can help me here.

I got a i3 hephestos with a 1.4 marlin firmware on it - fine and it worked.
The previous owner gave me a "heatbed"-kit too.

I installed it correctly, downloaded https://github.com/teelinsan/Prusa-i3-Hephestos-Heated-bed this firmware, to get the heatbed running.
i always got connection timeouts, so i thought, try another firmware.

I found the bq Marlin firmware (https://github.com/bq/Marlin/tree/master) and tried to compile it but i got errors everywhere.

If i try to compile it under Linux & Mac, i got this error:

make: *** No rule to make target `bin/wiring.o', needed by `bin/Marlin.elf'.  Stop.

When i try it under Windows i get this one:

TemperatureManager.cpp: In member function 'void temp::TemperatureManager::init()':
TemperatureManager.cpp:112:39: error: 'temptable_99' was not declared in this scope
   short (*tt)[][2] = (short (*)[][2]) temptable_99;
                                       ^
TemperatureManager.cpp: In member function 'void temp::TemperatureManager::updateLUTCache()':
TemperatureManager.cpp:189:39: error: 'temptable_99' was not declared in this scope
   short (*tt)[][2] = (short (*)[][2]) temptable_99;
                                       ^
make: *** [bin/TemperatureManager.o] Fehler 1
"  CXX   TemperatureManager.cpp"
TemperatureManager.cpp: In member function 'void temp::TemperatureManager::init()':
TemperatureManager.cpp:112:39: error: 'temptable_99' was not declared in this scope
   short (*tt)[][2] = (short (*)[][2]) temptable_99;
                                       ^
TemperatureManager.cpp: In member function 'void temp::TemperatureManager::updateLUTCache()':
TemperatureManager.cpp:189:39: error: 'temptable_99' was not declared in this scope
   short (*tt)[][2] = (short (*)[][2]) temptable_99;
                                       ^
make: *** [bin/TemperatureManager.o] Fehler 1

I set the sensors right in the config files (instead of the 99 --> 1), because this ones are build in.
I tried to include the "thermistortables.h" in the TemperatureManager.cpp", but it did not work.

Please help me.

Anet A8 problems (1 reply)

chucketn — Thu, 12 Oct 2023 04:59:32 -0400

I just finished some repairs and upgrades to my old faithful Anet A8. Now the new v6 clone hot end (Bowden extruder) hits the document clips that hold the glass plate to the build plate.
This did not happen prior to the hot end change.
I use Repetier Host to run the A8 via USB from a win 10 computer.
I think I need to tell Repetier Host the bed is smaller, and use a start script to raise the Z before moving in to start the print. No matter what settings for the printer I change, the printer homes to the left front corner of the bed and the heat block hits the document climps holding the glass plate when starting the print. Any suggestions?

Chuck

Need Help with config for Prusa I3 ProW (2 replies)

reclaimerx10 — Thu, 24 Aug 2023 00:22:29 -0400

Hey, to whoever can help me out I am having issues with my printer. Just got a new matt for it and I am trying to update the firmware in the printer, however I am constantly getting an error with the config file with the Y_PROBE_OFFSET value. I am wanting to get a 9 point grid with the auto bed leveling but this firmware just isnt working for it. I can get a 4 point square grid but that is all. Can anyone help me out and reccommend how to fix this config so it can work with a 9 point grid instead? Thankyou!

Geeetech PI3B Part fan slows to a stop (4 replies)

RolyB — Thu, 27 Apr 2023 04:46:51 -0400

I have a Geeetech PI3 ProB (GT2560 RevA+) with Marlin 2.1.2 installed and a part cooling fan added.

The part fan "Hunts" speeding up and slowing down and then gradually slows to a stop while printing following the first M106 command.

Running the fan via Manual Control in Repetier-Host works as expected.

I have written a short script which starts the fan and simultaneously moves the X, Y and Z axis.
If I run this script from Repetier-Host the fan runs continuously whilst moving the axis as it should.

Has anyone else experienced similar behaviour?

Attached are the configuration files being used. Lines commented with RHB are my amendments.

Thanks in advance for help/suggestions.
Roland

Melzi board - bed temperature copying nozzle temperature. (1 reply)

Salim — Fri, 03 Nov 2023 10:20:56 -0400

Hello,

I have a mezli 2.0 board that was working fine, but now Btemp is not working and it's copying/sync the Etemp readings with a few degrees in difference, whether the bed is plugged or unplugged.

hotbed is good thermistor is good (tested on a another similar board), bed power is good and can be turned on and off works manually (while btemp is copying etemp readings)
All resistors (1002) R1 R2 R3 to R5 , read approx 10k , but R4 near Btemp reads approx 1.2k (same values as when ends stop shorted) , is there a short somewhere? were to inspect ?

PS:noob in electronics, 3rd world here so a Melzi board is more than technology for me...

E1 Thermal shutdown Marlin 2.0, Ramps (1 reply)

markotime — Thu, 10 Nov 2022 13:27:47 -0500

Here's the error log, any help gratefully accepted
Connected to Repetier host...
13:53:28.924 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:0 Y:0 Z:0
13:53:28.924 : N12 M220 S100*82
13:53:28.924 : N13 M221 S100*82
13:53:28.924 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS
13:53:28.924 : echo:No media
13:53:28.924 : echo:Unknown command: "M80" (power on)
13:53:28.924 : N14 M111 S6*82
13:53:28.924 : N15 T0*14
13:53:28.924 : N16 M155 S1*87
13:53:28.934 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS
13:54:11.806 : Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: E0
13:54:13.886 : echo:Heating Failed
13:54:13.936 : Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
13:54:31.282 : N17 M999*28
13:54:31.292 : N1 M110*34
13:54:32.304 : N1 M110*34
13:54:32.304 : N1 M110*34
13:54:32.304 : N1 M110*34

ANet A8 Z axis nut supports (3 replies)

BrianRosenthal — Thu, 24 Nov 2022 09:51:48 -0500

Both Z axis nut supports on my A8 just fractured to pieces.

Does anyone know where I can get replacement parts? Searching for "anet a8 left z axis nut support" doesn't find a lot of options.

Thanks!

Heated bed wont work (no replies)

konstantin.neo — Mon, 04 Jul 2022 12:16:44 -0400

Its an Aurora z605 (prusa i3 clone)
Yesterday was working fine. I have been fiddling with the firmware and uploaded firmware to the Melzi v2.3 board.
HAVE_HEATED_BED is checked in the configuration tool.

Strange thing thermistor reads 39 - 40 degrees C, should be around room temperature, bed is cold. Tried to warm the thermistor and it displays a change in reading.
But the bed wont heat. Turning the bed on in pronterface/repetier host does nothing, no voltage on the "BED" pinouts on the board.

Maker Select V2 - New motherboard not compatible with LCD? (no replies)

WhiteCheddar — Mon, 20 Jun 2022 16:45:11 -0400

Full disclosure: I have no idea what I'm doing. I hope this is the right forum for this post. I'm a first year engineering student, and my co-op position offered me this old printer and said "if you can fix it, you can have it".

It's a Maker Select V2 with a Melzi Ardentissimo motherboard. I noticed the board was damaged, and so ordered a new one from Aliexpress - A Melzi2.0_V5 :

[www.aliexpress.com]

When connecting this new board to the LCD, the screen lights but displays nothing, regardless of all the printer outputs being connected and pressing the knob. I thought maybe the screen was damaged too (there was evidence of another co-op trying to fix it), so I ordered a new one:

[www.aliexpress.com]

Nope! new one behaves the same as the old one (one is V4 and one is V5). Then I found some evidence that the 2.0 version of this board is meant to connect to a screen that has a 5-button array rather than a knob:

[www.amazon.ca]

But I'm not sure if this matters. I've already put $80 into this and don't want to order any more parts until I'm sure they're needed. The printer itself is unresponsive. Perhaps I need to install firmware? If so, it will be a new challenge for me.

Any insight is much appreciated!

- Nicholas

Prusa I3 clone-Horizontal banding (no replies)

Focussys — Sun, 24 Apr 2022 05:32:17 -0400

My Prusa clone is producing horizontal bands at 2mm spacing to start with, then 1.5mm upwards on a 1cm test cube.
I have checked z wobble and changed belts on both axes. I have re-lubricated the z threads as well. It happens on both the X and Y axis.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Re: Is it possible to swap a xps 9370 i3 motherboard with a 9370 i7? (-1 replies)

Dust — Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500

@jerrybakermr

This has nothing to do with Prusa i3 3d printers.

This forum is all about 3d printer, not computers.

Upgraded to 1.1.9 and z homing is reversed. (2 replies)

Trike — Fri, 11 Feb 2022 12:46:32 -0500

I've been struggling with this for a few days and just can't figure it out. I had a really old build of Marlin V1 from 2014 and I wanted to replace the problematic servo probe with an inductive probe. Printer worked fine before the upgrade besides the inconsistent servo probe. I added the (blue tip lj12a3-4-z/bx) inductive switch with a voltage divider and m119 shows it triggering as expected. I used all the old settings from the old configuration file in 1.1.9. XY homes correctly but when homing Z it goes up instead of down. Moving Z up and down in pronterface moves in the correct direction. I've also tried inverting the z min endstop and unplugged the sensor, verified m119 showed as open and homing still goes up instead of down. I attempted to compile my old marlin version but can't because I'm missing an old u8g library and can't seem to tip it. Inverting the z axis does make it home in the downward direction, but regular movements are reversed. If I swap arduino's to my old marlin version, it homes just fine, so I know it's a firmware issue, but I can't figure it out. I'm hoping someone here has some suggestions.

I've tried enabling and disabling the Z pullups, but doesn't seem to make a difference.

This seems to be a common issue with most people saying to check the endstop invert parameters, but that isn't helping or missing something very obvious. I verified with m119 before homing z and it shows as open, so it isn't triggered before homing. I manually touch the bed with the probe while it's homing in the wrong direction and it does stop the z axis. it's just going in the wrong direction.

This is on a i3 rework printer with a ramps 1.4 board.

This is the relevant config I have in 1.1.9 and matches my old 1.1 version besides the additional defines for the fixed probe which didn't exist in the old version. I have attached my full configuration.h file as well.

#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true

#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE

#define INVERT_X_DIR true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false

#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

Let me know if you need anymore info, I've been pulling my hair trying to get this to work.

Thanks!

Hictop Controller Pinout (5 replies)

Roberts_Clif — Fri, 21 Jan 2022 08:13:23 -0500

I have a controller from Hictop MPK V1.

I do not have a complete board Connector Pin-out.

Please supply me any information you may have regarding connector labeled with an " H6 ".

[attachment 119098 MKP_V1.jpg]

More information they replaced the FT232RL - FTDI with an ATmega 16U2 High Speed USB controller this is where H6 connects.
Thank You

Anet A8 Plus Bilinear ABL out of bed (3 replies)

Frank_ — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:10:57 -0500

Hi @ll,

i have an Anet A8 plus printer, configured with Marlin 2.0.9.3.
Printing works, so i decide to install an ABL bilinear levelling with a capacitive Probe.

Here´s my problem:
After homing and offset corrections, my nozzle is in the middle of the bed. 150x-axis and 150y-axis.
If i try to autobedleveling, the probes right are 2 cm outside of the bed. Make it sense to install the sensor closer to the nozzle?
This means i have to reassemble the nozzle holder completely and closer to the nozzle.

How can i create a new grid that all probes are inside the printed area?
My capacitive probe sensor is 30 mm right from the nozzle installed. I use Marlin 2.0.9.3 with printed Area 300x300 (Anet A8 Plus)

Thx in advance for any hints and helps
BR
Frank

Prusa-mini hardware configuration change (no replies)

chriske — Sun, 26 Dec 2021 13:33:24 -0500

Hi guys,

Is there a possible way to change the PrusaMini from a bowden to a direct drive setup. Someone tried it before..?

Thanks
Chris

X AND Y AXIS SHOW NEGATIVE NUMBERS (2 replies)

LostAgain — Mon, 06 Dec 2021 09:21:33 -0500

Hello,I am brand-new to this forum and 3d printing so if I am violating any protocols I apologize in advance. If my questions seem stupid , it comes with being brand-new.

I have an Anet a8 and the home-offset-routine does not work. This printer appears to feel my bed's left side is 20mm is closer than it is. I am unable to change the settings. After I do the auto-home-all routine and go to move the X axis the it starts showing a negative value . The y axis also shows a negative value. How do I delete these negative values. None of the tutorials on YouTube show negative value showing up for either the x or y axis.

While there has been no smoke or fire, this machine has endured a lot "beginner ophs" in its assembly. Before I starting replacing components, I would like to make sure there is no another route.

Any suggestion?

A better Titan Aero mount for I3 printers (no replies)

NovaHuta — Tue, 18 May 2021 09:17:29 -0400

Hi Y'all, just posted this improved carriage design for the Titan Aero hot end+extruder assembly.

It faces forward and keeps most of mass in XZ plane. I can get probe and nozzel to all points on build plate with this configuration.

Enjoy!

Thingyverse.com

[attachment 118288 IMG_3086.jpg]