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        <title>Reprap Forum - Fisher</title>
        <description>... its a small Delta printer from RepRapPro</description>
        <link>https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?409</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Mon, 13 Apr 2026 22:47:00 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,618637,895992#msg-895992</guid>
            <title>Re: Effector for E3D v6</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,618637,895992#msg-895992</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Can the green part in the onshape design be printed in PLA? I have ordered the E3D hotend. I am using original arms. I will update with how it goes.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Greggles512</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 26 Oct 2024 07:22:33 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893152#msg-893152</guid>
            <title>Re: Replacement connecting rods?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893152#msg-893152</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Huh, you learn something new every day!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.thyssenkrupp-materials.co.uk/is-stainless-steel-magnetic" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Stainless steels</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 25 Jul 2023 16:34:03 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893116#msg-893116</guid>
            <title>Re: Replacement connecting rods?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893116#msg-893116</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Stainless steel can be either magnetic or non magnetic depending on the alloy used. I use magnetic ones from Haydn Huntley.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jul 2023 02:56:43 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893115#msg-893115</guid>
            <title>Re: Replacement connecting rods?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893115#msg-893115</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If anyone knows where there is a supplier of steel/magnetic threaded balls, preferably in the UK, please let me know. Even the ones on ebay claiming to be kossel 10mm steel magnetic balls also say they are stainless steel, which is not magnetic...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jul 2023 17:02:01 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893100#msg-893100</guid>
            <title>Re: Replacement connecting rods?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893100#msg-893100</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hmm, the problem I have now is the ball caps are stainless steel so not magnetic. Trying to source some M3 6mm steel ball caps...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Jul 2023 13:03:55 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893099#msg-893099</guid>
            <title>Re: PETG advice</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893099#msg-893099</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ More advice:<br />
<br />
* I'm now using a 2:1 mix of PVA glue and water, works fine!<br />
* the residual print warping issue was due to an unlevel print head, caused by the PLA part being warped. NOTE: that the cooling fan on the print head has only one screw and can easily be hinged up causing no airflow over the heatsink. This WILL warp your print head!<br />
* Further to the fan ducts, I believe they are there to help with bridging, so definitely don't remove them<br />
* Fill density helps a lot too. Just a raise from 20% to 30% using star infill made a huge difference to warping and strength<br />
* Also important to get your print speeds dialled in, experiment and watch the print. The slower you go the better the print, unless it's bridging!<br />
* I'm having trouble with adaptive slicing, so switch that off...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Jul 2023 12:59:36 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893089,893098#msg-893098</guid>
            <title>Re: Unlevel print head</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893089,893098#msg-893098</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks for the idea, but it was a warped print head.<br />
<br />
I printed a new one from PETG which is a bit higher temp than PLA so hopefully will be more robust!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Jul 2023 12:46:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893089,893091#msg-893091</guid>
            <title>Re: Unlevel print head</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893089,893091#msg-893091</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I can't remember the construction of the Fisher, but could it be that a carriage that the rod tops are connected to isn't level?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Jul 2023 14:52:13 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893089,893089#msg-893089</guid>
            <title>Unlevel print head</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893089,893089#msg-893089</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have been making improvements to an old Fisher I have access to. The only thing left to sort out is the print head is not level. I would estimate it is 5 degrees tilted towards the Y tower.<br />
<br />
Because of the calibration routines, I can only think that the head itself must no longer be flat, so I will try printing a new one.<br />
<br />
On a delta, is there any other way the head could be unlevel? The rods themselves are laser cut so hard to imagine they are out of tolerance, and presumably any differences in them and the carriages would be calibrated out anyway?<br />
I have been through and adjusted all the configuration variables for endstops, home position, etc and always run the mesh grid compensation and delta calibration.<br />
<br />
Regards,<br />
Richard]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Jul 2023 09:34:00 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893087#msg-893087</guid>
            <title>Re: Replacement connecting rods?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893087#msg-893087</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So, after my first post I did some more digging and found Haydn Huntley's idea about using magnetic ball ends with carbon fibre tubular rods.<br />
I'm going to try using the existing ball ends and just replace the rods.<br />
The neodymium magnets are ordered and cap ends designed, I will post my results.<br />
<br />
[attachment 120409 ScreenShot2023-07-07at18.06.00.png]<br />
<br />
Here's his website:<br />
[<a href="https://www.magballarms.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.magballarms.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jul 2023 10:55:11 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893080#msg-893080</guid>
            <title>Re: PETG advice</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893080#msg-893080</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think because it's not a full metal hot end, the heatsink needs the fan permanently on so the main PLA head part doesn't melt<br />
<br />
For anyone else looking for PETG advice:<br />
<br />
* I don't recommend removing the fan ducts, they don't seem to make a difference to the print other than they may prevent/cool plastic that is stuck to the outside of the nozzle meaning it doesn't oxidise and fall off into the print leaving ugly brown streaks<br />
* It's very important to reduce the first layer speed a lot. On very small parts I needed 20%. I probably wouldn't go above 50% at all<br />
* I did eventually get 80degC bed temperature working with a 250degC nozzle temperature. I was using 230degC before and I think the hotter filament compensates for the cooler bed. I read an article saying 250degC is best for PETG in terms of strength. The manufacturer recommended 230degC<br />
* I'm now trying a glue on the bed. It is covered with kapton tape, and on top of that I'm painting on a 50:50 mix of PVA glue and water, that I read works instead of all these expensive glues around. It certainly hasn't made things worse and I think just gives the bed a bit of a matt surface finish that helps. Before that I tried a 600 grit sandpaper on the tape surface which I think probably helped<br />
* I haven't tried the external heater again but am trying to prevent draughts<br />
* Drying the filament certainly hasn't made things worse either<br />
* Good quality filament will help. I inherited a reel of PLA that is awful. It literally has lumps of brown plastic moulded into the filament randomly which would cause a jam and block the nozzle, which obviously doesn't help with print anxiety!<br />
* Obviously getting the print height consistent across the whole bed is vital, so make sure you do the mesh grid compensation and calibration with the nozzle hot. I have a raised spot opposite a tower which I don't really understand<br />
<br />
Initial results are promising, and it's not that much harder to print than PLA :)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jul 2023 12:49:24 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893075#msg-893075</guid>
            <title>Re: PETG advice</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893075#msg-893075</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Even with a Duet 0.6 you should be able to control the speed of the fans unless they are stuck permanently on.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jul 2023 01:19:08 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893074#msg-893074</guid>
            <title>Re: PETG advice</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893074#msg-893074</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Okay thanks, that gives me some hope.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately on a Fisher (or at least the one I'm using; an old Duet 0.6) the fan speed doesn't change. I guess it may have been wired up wrong though.<br />
<br />
I'm hoping leaving the head ducts off (that direct the airflow directly towards the nozzle) it will have a similar effect to reducing the fan speed and keeping the print hotter for longer]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jul 2023 21:57:56 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893072#msg-893072</guid>
            <title>Re: PETG advice</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893072#msg-893072</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ PETG doesn't need a heated chamber. On my delta (not a Fisher) I use 80C bed temperature. I reduce the maximum  speed of the print cooling fan to about 40%.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jul 2023 15:53:14 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893071#msg-893071</guid>
            <title>PETG advice</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893071,893071#msg-893071</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi again,<br />
<br />
Another thing I'd like to do with the Fisher Delta is print with PETG.<br />
<br />
I have had a brief try and it went okay, but it didn't completely adhere to the bed at 85degC and warped as a result, so I will try 90degC next.<br />
But the two bad things that happened:<br />
1. The head ducts melted<br />
2. The nozzle got completely blocked<br />
<br />
I think this was because I directed a small fan heater at the head to try to increase the ambient temperature so the whole thing overheated.<br />
<br />
The things I'm going to try:<br />
* Move the heater a bit further away<br />
* 90degC bed temperature<br />
* Leave the head ducts off<br />
* Dry the filament<br />
<br />
Does anyone else have experience of printing PETG on a Fisher Delta and have any advice?<br />
Do you think I have any chance with my approach and without a heated chamber?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
Richard]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jul 2023 14:57:12 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893070#msg-893070</guid>
            <title>Replacement connecting rods?</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,893070,893070#msg-893070</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello all,<br />
<br />
First post here and bit of a newb!<br />
I have access to an ageing Fisher Delta and the acrylic head connecting rod ends are warping quite badly, so much that they are becoming loose on the ball caps.<br />
<br />
I was wondering if anyone knew/had tried replacing them with metal rods with ball joints? They will obviously be much more robust, accurate and longer lasting.<br />
Something like this with some M4 threaded rod:<br />
[<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/ShareGoo-Thread-Compatible-SCX10-II-Crawler/dp/B09JLMVS6T" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.amazon.co.uk</a>]<br />
<br />
May need to widen the carriages and head to use the bolts the other way around and have the ball joints pressed against the plastic (with a washer).<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
Richard]]></description>
            <dc:creator>racitup</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jul 2023 12:36:55 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,887094,887104#msg-887104</guid>
            <title>Re: Complete Novice - Please Help!</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,887094,887104#msg-887104</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If you are connecting via USB then you will need to run a terminal emulator program on the macbook. Alternatively, connect it to your router using an Ethernet cable and then use your router administrator page to see what IP address is it using.<br />
<br />
For more help, try posting at [<a href="https://forum.duet3d.com/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">forum.duet3d.com</a>].]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 21 Nov 2021 12:13:45 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,887094,887094#msg-887094</guid>
            <title>Complete Novice - Please Help!</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,887094,887094#msg-887094</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi All, <br />
Can someone give me a step-by-step, absolute novice's guide to turning on/connecting my Fisher Delta to my laptop? I'm working with a macbook pro. <br />
<br />
I inherited the machine from a friend of my parents. I know the machine is functional as I was given a full demo when I picked it up, but since getting it home I cannot make any sort of link to my laptop, and I can't actually tell if the machine has turned on (I was so excited when I got it that I forgot to listen out for what 'on' sounds like). The fan doesn't turn on and the nozzle doesnt heat up. The power pack is registering power, but am I missing something as simple as a switch on the machine itself? <br />
<br />
I would be so, so appreciative if anybody could walk me through in absolute baby steps. I took a lot of notes on everything that happened after start up, but the start up in the demo was so quick and smooth that it didnt seem more complex than connecting all the wires (power, internet, connection to laptop) and opening up reprapfisher. My laptop cannot locate the machine and as I say, I dont think it's even turned on. <br />
<br />
Here's to hoping someone here can help me out!<br />
Thank you!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DessaBee</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 21 Nov 2021 08:12:33 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,883253,883253#msg-883253</guid>
            <title>Extruder clicking and other questions.</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,883253,883253#msg-883253</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello.  New to 3D printing and i have been given a fisher delta 1.<br />
<br />
I have managed to commission it ok and can print the robot ok.<br />
<br />
I have generally been able to print things ok with a nice finish but im finding that during the print my extruder motor will click occasionally.<br />
<br />
What would be the first thing to try?  I don't want to just try things randomly if there is a good place to start.<br />
<br />
Increase print temp?  Reduce print speed?  Could the tension be too high on the extruder idler?<br />
<br />
I don't seem to get blockages during a print although i have had a lot of problems with the hot end where the PLA gets a buldge in it before the nozzle.  My bowden tube is butted up against the nozzle.  Its the early one where you screw the bowden tube into it and drill it out manually.  No problems with initially feeding the PLA through to the nozzle.<br />
<br />
I have ordered a different PLA just in case it is of poor quality but it does seem consistently 1.75mm.<br />
<br />
Hot end fan is running during print<br />
<br />
All standard settings apart from homing and bed levelling stuff.<br />
<br />
PLA at 200C.  Glass unheated bed.<br />
<br />
Any help would be appreciated.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jayuk022002</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2021 05:37:21 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,881505,881505#msg-881505</guid>
            <title>My printer gives a very bumpy map when I scan it</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,881505,881505#msg-881505</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I bought the printer recentl;y off a freind so the bed is already pretty torn down with resudue from the past but whenever I try to use the auto delta calibration I get a scan thats off by 6 or even sometimes 8 mm and after poutting crasy big z stops the scan is still extremely bumpy not sloped. Do I need to get a new bed? or is it something else?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>phellykz</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 13 Feb 2021 10:49:01 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,880128,880159#msg-880159</guid>
            <title>Re: Auto Delta Compensation crashes into Z Tower</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,880128,880159#msg-880159</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ (tu) Excellent - many thanks. <br />
Odd that those files are on the SD card that ships with a Fisher and there isn't a note to delete them in the build instructions.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>aracdin</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2021 05:00:10 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,880128,880137#msg-880137</guid>
            <title>Re: Auto Delta Compensation crashes into Z Tower</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,880128,880137#msg-880137</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If you have deployprobe.g and retractprobe.g files in /sys on the SD card, delete them.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2021 16:00:10 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,880128,880128#msg-880128</guid>
            <title>Auto Delta Compensation crashes into Z Tower</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,880128,880128#msg-880128</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Please can anyone help a newcomer?...<br />
<br />
I've just built my Fisher and am running through commissioning. I have gone through all the steps up until Bed Probing successfully. <br />
I can move the head in each direction and the correct distances using the web interface.<br />
But, each time I try and execute Auto Delta Compensation, the head crashes into the Z Tower (to the left of the Duet Ethernet/ Power sockets).<br />
The steppers keep driving until I can get to the Emergency Stop - by which time some of the rods have disconnected.<br />
<br />
Can anyone point me in the right direction?<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></description>
            <dc:creator>aracdin</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2021 14:03:11 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,873068#msg-873068</guid>
            <title>Re: First Layer / Auto Delta Calibration</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,873068#msg-873068</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You were right, problems on both sides actually.<br />
[attachment 115697 IMG_20200526_201731.jpg]<br />
Superglue fixed it long enough to print some replacements, as the idler broke on both towers facing the front 8-)<br />
Print now looks a lot better,<br />
[attachment 115698 IMG_20200527_010050.jpg]<br />
Nozzle is too far from the bed near X-Tower and too close between Y and Z, but as I made adjustments to the X-endstop-offset in the last couple of days (to counter my "problem") I guess that reverting this will give me a smooth print. Didn't have time for that yesterday though.<br />
<br />
Thanks again to pointing me in the right direction!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>honuvo</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 27 May 2020 03:11:17 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,872997#msg-872997</guid>
            <title>Re: First Layer / Auto Delta Calibration</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,872997#msg-872997</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks for answering!<br />
Oooooh, I see what you mean. I'm still using the default rods (acrylic). You mean maybe one slips a little while the nozzle touches the bed? Will give it a look as soon as I get home. Tightening the skrew on the rod would make it clamp harder and make for a better grip but increases chance of breaking, right?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>honuvo</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2020 04:59:44 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,872992#msg-872992</guid>
            <title>Re: First Layer / Auto Delta Calibration</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,872992#msg-872992</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think there is a mechanical problem with one of the arm joints, most likely an arm on the right hand side of the height map; or with a bed probing contact on the left hand side.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dc42</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2020 02:16:29 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,872978#msg-872978</guid>
            <title>First Layer / Auto Delta Calibration</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,872978,872978#msg-872978</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi!<br />
Long time I've been reading silently in this forum, but now I have a problem I can't fix myself.<br />
Trying to use my whole printbed doesn't seem to be as easy for me. Printing small object like benchy seems fine, but when using the whole bed it gets messy.<br />
What I'm trying to print (calibration object): <br />
[attachment 115683 slic3r.jpg]<br />
<br />
What the fist layer looks like:<br />
[attachment 115680 FirstLayer.jpg]<br />
[attachment 115681 FirstLayercloseup.jpg]<br />
<br />
I'm using the Auto Delta Calibration from webinterface which should negate bed problems, but it isn't. Here's the output:<br />
[attachment 115682 AutoDeltaCalibration.jpg]<br />
<br />
Here my Slic3r settings (from the gcode):<br />
[<a href="https://justpaste.it/6osgm" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">justpaste.it</a>]<br />
<br />
Why won't the auto calibration work? What am I doing wrong?<br />
<br />
Regards,<br />
honuvo]]></description>
            <dc:creator>honuvo</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 May 2020 15:18:59 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,863991,863991#msg-863991</guid>
            <title>It seems Monoprice MP Mini Delta is a clone of Fisher.</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,863991,863991#msg-863991</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ [<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Calibration-Assembled-Preloaded-Printable/dp/B07CJQ3D6L?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&amp;tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B07CJQ3D6L" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.amazon.com</a>]<br />
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            <dc:creator>janpenguin</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 Dec 2019 18:48:41 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,846029,863348#msg-863348</guid>
            <title>Re: STL Parts for fisher . help</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,846029,863348#msg-863348</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Dancer, Thanks for your information on Slicers. I have tried a few from your list. I find that "Cura" is the best. Slic3r gives stringy results when printed. At the moment I have problems downloading Cura !   I will try some of the other Slicers in your list. Thanks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Larryhod</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2019 05:10:31 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,846029,863305#msg-863305</guid>
            <title>Re: STL Parts for fisher . help</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?409,846029,863305#msg-863305</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Well...<br />
<br />
If you don't know such an absolut basic information, you probably should read a lot more about 3D-Printing before starting anything.<br />
<br />
<br />
The Software you are searching for is called a slicer. There are quite a lot of them - e.g. Cura, Slic3r, Slic3r Prusa, Kisslicer, craftware, simplify3d,....]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dancer</dc:creator>
            <category>Fisher</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 28 Nov 2019 09:57:23 -0500</pubDate>
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