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        <title>Reprap Forum - Hangprinter</title>
        <description>This forum is dedicated to Hangprinter style mechanics ...</description>
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            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,885437,885437#msg-885437</guid>
            <title>4 point hangprinter for cubic printing volume (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,885437,885437#msg-885437</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi, I want to propose a four point hangprinter that can be square or rectangular as i show in the pics, this type of printer makes possible a cubic printing volume instead the common delta hangprinter for pyramidal printing volume, this is an idea i have had since few years and i have made a random sketch to explain this idea. i have thought now of maintaining a square frame in tension to move in z axis with one or more motors and move the xy axis with 4 additional motors, all located in the ceiling.<br />
<br />
i think this idea, whatever the approach can be made easily in houses though i have in mind making a light concrete frame of 5m tall for more industrial approach<br />
<br />
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<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ayozek</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 Aug 2021 00:15:20 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,880018,880018#msg-880018</guid>
            <title>New member, about to start (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,880018,880018#msg-880018</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there<br />
<br />
I've been in love with the hangprinter concept for a few years since I saw videos of it on Youtube but have not had the space or time to make one while I was a student. <br />
<br />
Now, I want to build one, with the hope that I can set it up at my work after I prove that I can get it to function well enough to print bodywork parts.<br />
<br />
I have had a Prusa I3 for the past 3 years and have occationally used and serviced printers at school/university going back to 2013 but have never dived deep into firmware or G-code, so I expect to have to learn a lot to make this work as the printer seems to be less developed than the commercially available products. <br />
<br />
I want to be a part of the community while I build this, so to start with, what are the largest pitfalls and are the manual and sourcing on <a href="https://hangprinter.org/doc/v3" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">hangprinter.org</a> up to date?<br />
<br />
A bit about my background: I am a mechanical engineer and also have some programming experience in matlab and a little bit in python.<br />
Edit: I intend on printing bodywork parts for motorcycle and race cars. I am prepared to not build the lowest priced printer if that makes the end-result better for printing this kind of stuff at higher speeds.<br />
<br />
Regards, <br />
Sebastian]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Sebastianmaklary</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2021 06:55:27 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,875053,875053#msg-875053</guid>
            <title>Sneak peek on the Bloft MK2 3D-printer (8 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,875053,875053#msg-875053</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey<br />
<br />
I'm happy to give you a first peek on our printer that we are currently building. The Bloft MK2 is based on Tobben's HP4 which we will extend with moving ABC-anchorpoints. We will have a modular frame based on stage trusses. The ABC-anchor's will glide on those trusses in the Z-axis. That will enable a cylindrical print volume making it more useable for tall objects.<br />
<br />
Total height of the frame will be 4.5 m<br />
Footprint diameter of approx. 4 m<br />
We will have to see where the max. print height will settle in, but we're aiming for 3-3.5 m, which would equal to 2.5-2.8 m3 print volume.<br />
<br />
The frame will be made of aluminium trusses and steel corners. The end effector is made of bend 1.5 mm sheet metal to achieve a good mix of (relative) lightness and sturdy structure. On the end effector we will attach the Badass Pellet Extruder with currently 1.5 kg/h output. Our goal is to print shredded waste plastic.<br />
<br />
Hopefully, we can fire up the beast in august/september. More to follow.<br />
<br />
[attachment 116196 FrameRenderf24v9.png]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2020 16:26:23 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,874811,874811#msg-874811</guid>
            <title>Hangprinter (v3/v4) + Duet2Wifi + Nema23 (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,874811,874811#msg-874811</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Dear Hangprinter Community <br />
First of all, please let me thank you all for all your effort on this wonderful printer!<br />
Right now I'm working on a hangprinter built which could be described as a version 4 but with Nema23 instead of ODrives.<br />
<br />
Background:<br />
Because we are planing to implement a ceramics printing head we decided to go for Nema23 (without smart steppers) instead of Nema17 motors and we had to switch for a 24V support. Knowing of v4 and the utilization/possibilities of a Duet 2 board to use the Nema23 as well as Hangprinter support, we decided to use the Duet 2 Wifi. Additionally, we went for belt-driven spools.<br />
<br />
We tried out the hangptinter support in the standard Duet RRF as well as Torbjørn's RRF fork with specified binary for hangprinter.<br />
Both firmwares seem to be lacking some support for our setup, though:<br />
Standard RRF has newer overall Firmware (3.15 at the moment instead of 2.15?) but rather basic considerations of hangprinter needs.<br />
Torbjørn's RRF fork binary and corresponding config.g-file come with deeper thoughts and experience from earlier versions on things like line buildup compensation, spool-radius, spool-/motor-teeth, advantage with double lines etc. etc. etc. But it is also primarily written with ODrives in mind. <br />
 <br />
Since we used the on-board TMC2660 drivers (X, Y, Z, E1 sockets), we menaged to get the Nema23 working individually in both cases but we still have some questions, we would like to ask:<br />
<br />
Does someone here have a similar use case of running Nema motors on a Duet 2 board for a hangprinter built?<br />
<br />
(1) What RRFirmware do you use and how have you adjusted your config.g file?<br />
<br />
(2) What Firmware would you suggest for our setting (Duet 2 Wifi + Nema23)?<br />
<br />
Simple question(s): <br />
(3) How have you mapped your motors to the drivers? (XYZU like suggested by Duet or rather ABCD as in Torbjørn's config.g?)  <br />
(4) It confused me, whether it is a problem - e.g. for translation of linear (Cartesian) coordinates (from gcode) into non-linear (hangprinter/delta-printer) coordinates - having the same naming of motors and axes? <br />
<br />
Speaking of which: <br />
(5) What routine do you use to generate gcode for your hangprinter (from .stl-file to gcode)? <br />
(6) What slicer or software-combination do you use?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Very excited about and very thankful for any reply!<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot!<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
<br />
Peter]]></description>
            <dc:creator>peta</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2020 08:07:27 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,873281,873281#msg-873281</guid>
            <title>... not exactly a hangprinter - more like &quot;wire-juggler&quot; (:P) (4 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,873281,873281#msg-873281</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ [<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HNAL8ZKdyM" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>VDX</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 Aug 2021 01:00:57 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,873277,873277#msg-873277</guid>
            <title>build and control software (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,873277,873277#msg-873277</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello fellow reprappers,<br />
I have got a few issues with my a hybrid version of hangrinter that I am building currently. <br />
My new hybrid printer is built exactly how the original V3 is but with a few changes which include using a recyclebot nstead of a regular extruder and using a nema23 to support the D-lines where the weight of carriage is acting directly. <br />
The issue I have here is with the movement control of the printer, I could move it vertically with D-Line but the A, B and C lines are not able to support the horizontal movement correctly. I am using the software "Pronterface" to control the printer along with a TB6600 controller for the nema 23 whereas the rest of nema17s went with A4988 drivers. <br />
Thanks in advance for the assistance that I am gonna get here.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>bharathlavu</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2021 07:13:36 -0400</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,868983,868983#msg-868983</guid>
            <title>Hangprinter version 4 (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,868983,868983#msg-868983</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey Tobben<br />
<br />
I would need your help with the wiring of the Duet2 and of the Odrive boards.<br />
The issue is, that I will need the thermocouple daughterboard interface for sensing my extrude temperature.<br />
<br />
Would it be possible to use the SPI0_X pins of the expansion interface instead? What you I need to change in the code?<br />
<br />
The Badass Pellet Extruder is now already semi-operational. We are already able to extrude plastic with 1,5 kg/h rate and almost a doubling will occur once we get the bigger stepper installed. Waiting still for the pinion gear to arrive.<br />
<br />
I'm going to shift focus on the motion unit electronics. Meanwhile, my team mate is working on the mechanical part of the unit. We have developed two motion unit concepts, which we're going to test. Both are going to work with 2-3 mm steel wire. I wasn't able to find Dyneema rope with only small amount of flex, that's why we're shifting now to steel wires. We're going to do the first tests with regular steel wire, but I'll try to source pre-stressed wire somewhere to get rid of the flexing issue. Also, we have ideas on how to measure accurately the position of the end-effector. It will be a combination of angular sensors and rotary encoders directly on the line guiding bearings. More on that later, once we get to test the system.<br />
<br />
We also have a pretty solid concept for the frame and for the wire guiding system. Those will be introduced, once we have them ready.<br />
Your help with the code/wiring would be now essential!<br />
<br />
Here's a <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/Df24MUBRMAJNiHXE9" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">video clip</a> on my setup<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Atte]]></description>
            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 17 Mar 2020 08:35:47 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,868741,868741#msg-868741</guid>
            <title>build instructions, tweeks, tips and links (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,868741,868741#msg-868741</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The aim of starting this separate topic is to make the process of building your own Hangprinter faster, easier and to help future builders avoid many pitfalls (and there are quite some :). For current users, this is space where you can share your tips and tricks directly related to building, configuring and setting up Hangprinter 3. Let's try to keep this concise so we don't create another "general hangrpinter 3" topic here ;)<br />
<br />
Here are the sources I suggest you consult in this exact order to get the best and quickest idea of what Hangprinter is about:<br />
<br />
1) watch instruction videos<br />
<br />
Chris three part youtube tutorial. It is very well paced and quite comprehensive. Make sure to watch all three parts, as last once introduces retrospective tweeks to the previous two. It all takes about an hour.<br />
building:<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAZok3KS9Uk&amp;list=PLrqS_-xptxHBBPMSChFa9ajuvEPkbOKzy&amp;index=12&amp;t=0s" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
calibration:<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBc7Zab64do&amp;list=PLrqS_-xptxHBBPMSChFa9ajuvEPkbOKzy&amp;index=4" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
wrap up and tips:<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsIizDPlyM0" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
2) check official hangprinter documentation<br />
<br />
Head to official hangprinter documentation site: [<a href="https://hangprinter.org/doc/v3/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">hangprinter.org</a>]<br />
Documentation is decent but not fully comprehensive. Nevertheless, if you watched full Chris's tutorial, it should make sense. Anyway, you are now kind of informed on what awaits you.<br />
<br />
3) Bill of Materials (BOM), printing parts of hangprinter, electronics<br />
<br />
Next, head to bill of materials (BOM) spreadsheet here:<br />
[<a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lOPZoF1P2OSdJcijZRVrwAEVFh3LLAnf6-s6k-hlbZU/edit#gid=0" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">docs.google.com</a>]<br />
<br />
3a)<br />
In the top of it are the links for actual 3d models (STLS) of parts of the printer you need to print yourself (no kits available as far as I known, although people've been asking recently).<br />
My only top as far as parts go is that I found spool cores to be quite fragile (broke 3 of them and than gave up on it). Im talking about this:<br />
[<a href="https://gitlab.com/tobben/hangprinter/-/blob/Openscad_version_3/openscad_stl/spool_core.stl" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">gitlab.com</a>]<br />
I found using 10mm thick long-ish (i think about 80mm?) screw work much better. attached it from under the plate and used one screw at its base and one on top of the pool. These are easily available at any hardware store and definitely wont brake. I belive Tobb uses them in his earlier bulds too.<br />
<br />
3b)<br />
Below that 3d models link, still at the BOM sheet, there is a link to layout of how the hangprinter parts and electronics should be positioned on a plate. If you have payed good attention to Chris's first video, this will only be a guide for you. Don't take it literally as you may have to redo it to adjust for your particular set-up (as I had to).<br />
<br />
3c)<br />
then there is a whole list of components (vitamins) you will need to buy and put together for the printer. Some of the links are still live, some not. You can just copy paste the names of the components and get any equivalents from anywehre online (i did my shopping on various aliexpress stores). Most parts are possible to source locally but some are definitely not. Take this into consideration if under time constrains. For example, I couldnt find 623 V-groove bearings anywhere outside of China but in UK. Same goes for atypcal M3,M2 screws.<br />
<br />
The closest place where I could order the fishing line you will need was some german online fishing shop:<br />
[<a href="https://www.fishingtackle24.de/lng/en/berkley-fireline-smoke-200m-270m.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.fishingtackle24.de</a>]<br />
As for the RAMPS part, everybody seems to be using 1.4. I used 1.5 and there is 1.6 as well. As far as I understand you may go for any of these<br />
<br />
As for the smart stepper, you need to decide if you want one or not as its not a must. Here are the pros of getting them:<br />
- they will enable you to autocalibrate (more on that later)<br />
- hangprinter shall not loose any step (eg if a phyisical bias is introduced - someone kicks your printer, it should be able to compoensate for it, by returning to original position)<br />
- you can put the printer into torque mode which means it will create certain and sustain certain tension on all motors which is handy for "parking" printer in the ceiling position and is also necessary for autocalibarion.<br />
The downside of it is opting for smart steppers are two:<br />
- the whole build will become twice as expensice. (one stepper motor is 50usd)<br />
- there is a bit more wiring and installing and tweaking to do<br />
<br />
If you choose not to get smart steppers, buy four more stepstick drivers instead (so 5 in total, as you ll need one nevertheless)<br />
If you choose to get smart steppers,l you got three options:<br />
<br />
- buy mechaduino from tropical labs:<br />
[<a href="https://tropical-labs.com/mechaduino/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">tropical-labs.com</a>]<br />
- buy smart stepper from misfit electronics <br />
[<a href="http://misfittech.net/nema-17-smart-stepper/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">misfittech.net</a>]<br />
the above two are mostly similar (one being developed version of the other), and they both cost roughly 50usd (plus shipping if you re outside of US)<br />
Torbjorn suggest that latter has more of a functionality (more on that later) but that it can be pushed to mechaduino too, with specific firmware he himself (I believe) wrote for it.<br />
- 3rd option - buy smartstepper clone from makerbase shop on aliexpress. I have heared some people confirming that Torbjorn firmware works on these, but haven't tested myself. If you understand arduino code and can easily figure pinouts and wirings it should be possibly to make it work (as it is really mostly a chinese clone). This one costs about 20usd i believe<br />
<br />
one more unclear item on a shopping list: extruder + hotend. It says anything will do, but you probably want to buy Volcano or Super Volcano from E3D (based in UK). These allow for thick layer printing (up to 1,4mm) which is what you want if you re building something big (otherwise it will take ages, literally)<br />
<br />
3d)<br />
Wiring loom. I didn't bother preparing one, but I can suggest two things. If you are planning to use cables longer than 2 meters (which you most probably are) I'd suggest using separate quality lower gauge number (eg18awg, which is thicker than 28awg rainbow wire you ll be ordering) wires for some of the connections. The definite one is for the heater element. It surely does need something thick. In my case i also suspect increased resistance reaings on thermistor beacuse of the long and thin wire, so I got a thicker cable on that too.<br />
<br />
4) Physical build of the printer<br />
<br />
By now you should have a decent understanding of what and how you will need to do, print and buy. Head back to hangprinter.org documentation and follow the step by step instructions. Torb also includes instructions for build with smart steppers and witsh stepstick drivers. The wiring diagram is a bit hard to tackle, but dont get intimidated, just make sure you connect all the connections exactly as they are. If in doubt, perhaps go back to Chris's first video (although he only uses stepsticks setup)<br />
<br />
5) Uploading Marlin code to RAMPS and arduino<br />
<br />
Once, you've built the printer, you will need to upload the code to it. Go to Torb's gitlab here:<br />
[<a href="https://gitlab.com/tobben" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">gitlab.com</a>]    and click on hangprinter category.<br />
Here, most of the project information is concentrated. Most of it will be irrelevant to you by now, as you'd already have printed the parts and build the physical body of the printer.<br />
What you are looking for is the code for the printer. There are two - one for RAMPS and Arduino Mega, which is referred to as Marlin, and one for Smart steppers (if you're using them). Than there is also autocalibration code, but we'll get to this later.<br />
Now, download the whole directory (there is download button somewhere in the upper right corner). In „Marlin_subtree“ there is the folder called Marlin. You need to open that folder and find a file called Marlin.ino. If you double click that file, your Arduino IDE will start. You will need that to install the firmware and your RAMPS and Arduino Mega. If you don’t have it installed yet, google it and download it. It will ask you to save the new sketch in a folder called Marlin, so go with that, but make sure to copy all the other files there, so that the new Marlin folder looks just like the one which you downloaded from gitlab. Next, in Arduino IDE head to Tools and choose your board (mega) and port in arduino ide (smthing like COM* on Windows or /dev/tty.usbserial* on MacOS). If you have a chinese clone of arduino, you may need to install additional driver for Arduino IDE to recognise them, plus you may need to choose „Old bootloader“ at Processeor menu (also in Tools). More on the chinese drivers here:<br />
[<a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/12133/mac-osx-yosemite-no-serial-ports-showing-for-uno-r3" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">arduino.stackexchange.com</a>]<br />
<br />
Now the sofrware should be uploaded to your arduino. you may need to tweek some variables (especially direction of stepper motors, as those seem to be opposite to what they need to be by default (in my case of mechaduinos)). If you are using Volcano, that is preconfigured as default extruder. If not, you need to configure that as well. Most of these are done in config.h file which is one of the many tabs that opens together with Marlin.ino file as its dependencies. If you feel lost, watch Chris’s second video, as he covers most of the basics.<br />
<br />
5b) smart steppers code<br />
<br />
if you are using smart steppers, you need to upload code over arduino IDE to these as well. they use different code than main RAMPS board though. it is to be found at two places - one is official mechaduino website (tropicallabs.com) and other is Torb’s gitlab - in smartstepper_subtree folder. The first one will definitely work for mechaduinos. The latter one is somewhat tweaked version and should work on both misfits and tropical labs hardware. I used mechaduino’s official firmware, but i may try torb’s in future as its ment to have more features.<br />
In any case, you need to upload the code to every single smart stepper one by one. This process is similar to what is described in previous paragraph, just with different files. So go find stepper_nano_zero.ino or mechaduino.ino (you re basically looking for .ino file) open it, copy remaining files to newly created folder, and upload the code. You than need to calibrate the steppers to work properly. The process of wiring the smart steppers (mechaduinos specifically) and prcoess of calibration (mechaduinos) is covered fairly well on hangprinter.org documentation site at the end of the page, so just follow that. On gitlab, Tobben’s got another mechaduino repository, that seems to be more up to date. you may want to try using that, not sure if there is any big difference. Or try the one for misfits steppers. (someone can clarify?)<br />
<br />
If you got misfits steppers you’ll probably have similar wiring (although pins may be located in different positions). To be honest, Im slightly confused here as Tobben seems to have two depositories for smart steppers on his gitlab (maybe someone can clarify?). the one that seems to be tiny bit more detailed in text description is this one (firmware files seem to be the same at both cases): [<a href="https://gitlab.com/tobben/Smart-Stepper-for-Hangprinter" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">gitlab.com</a>]<br />
<br />
6) Calibration<br />
<br />
if you are using stepstick drivers, your only option is manual callibration. Best calibration tutorial is, again, Chris’s second video. He also explains bit of maths behind and gets you some clear formulas and tips to get you there.<br />
If you are using smart steppers (Misfits’, Mechaduinos, or chinese clones) you can try autocalibration method deviced by Torbjorn (or stick to manual calibration). it basically consists of python script that collects data points of the printer as you move it (in torque mode) from one point to another to another. Torb’s instructions are, again, on his gitlab:<br />
[<a href="https://gitlab.com/tobben/auto-calibration-simulation-for-hangprinter" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">gitlab.com</a>]<br />
<br />
if you re on mac like me, you need to run this script over terminal. you also need python 2.7 to run it. and python needs numpy, scipy and mystic. Im not going to go into details here, but if you ve got no clue what im talking about, try asking someoen geeky :) or google installing python and packages over terminal. Thats what i did and i managed eventually, but honestly, im not confident explaining how. if you re on windows, i wouldnt know, but googling will. I assume, something to do with command line ;) Tobben’s instructions are actually written for Linux machines, so MacOS is a bit close to that but it might be quite different on Windows.<br />
Once you have all the dependencies installed follow the instructions on gitlab. It should eventually generate the calibration table for you, like the one you would have calculated yourself with manual callibration.<br />
Personally, I managed to get the script going and had it compute the coordinates but only got trash data out of it. Not shure why that was (someone has a deeper insight into this?) but im assuming my set up of anchors was a bit too uneven. So I think you pretty much need to set it up as neat as you can - ie as Chris would have you do it for manual calibration and than having set everything precisely, you can try auto callibration script.<br />
<br />
those are my two cents. I hope this will help people who dont have degree in engineering but are intrigued by possibilities this machine offers. Im definitely one of those :)<br />
and yes, this was my first 3d printer built ever ;P<br />
<br />
If anyone feels this is inappropriate, or has questions to few questions raised here, please feel free to comment or send me a message and i ll update it. <br />
Peace]]></description>
            <dc:creator>pvsfa</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2020 01:12:20 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,864309,864309#msg-864309</guid>
            <title>The Badass Pellet Extruder (17 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,864309,864309#msg-864309</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So, time for a new thread B)-<br />
<br />
As you might have noticed, I've been developing the motion system hardware for the Hangprinter since October. I source most of my stuff in China nowadays, so there has been also a lot of waiting involved in that. And to keep myself busy, I've been working on the extrusion end of the printer. During the summer I used the Hangprinter in two large-scale print projects, which were... let's say very educative. I spotted several issues, most of them mechanical, but the biggest issue was the material output per hour and its supply during a week long print. Although I have the SuperVulcano attached, it is nowhere near the output capability I need.<br />
<br />
Even though I used 2,5 kg spools, I wasn't able to print overnight without disruption. And that of course accumulates in production delay. One way to deal with automatic spool change would have been the Prusa MMU2 for example. But, from what I've read, it isn't foolproof either. Combined with the fact, that FDM as technology can't be sped up much further, I came to the conclusion that it has to be something else, if we ever want to achieve speeds needed for industrial applications. So, I set a goal of approx. 2 kg/h material output and a temperature range which covers every possible polymer you could come up with. Further, I wanted to have a changeable nozzle in a size range of 1-6 mm.<br />
<br />
And this beast was born in the lab:<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
Length: 550 mm<br />
Weight: 4,5 kg<br />
Heating power: 3 x 200 W / 230 V<br />
Motor: Nema23 with 46:1 reduction gearbox<br />
Temp Sensors: K-Type<br />
Max temp: 400-500 C<br />
<br />
It is yet to be tested. I'm waiting (surprise) for the Duet thermocoupler daughterboards to arrive, before first firing. That will happen before Christmas. Then I will be able to tell more about the performance. For testing, I'll be using commercial pellets to maintain steady quality of the extrusion, but my goal is to eventually use the 3D-printer waste material we have been collecting in our lab and to do experiments with your daily HDPE &amp; PP plastic packages. These will be shredded to a granulate fine enough to be feded into the extruder.<br />
<br />
The barrel and the heating elements will be insulated with a silica aerogel/fiberglass blanket, which is currently the best commercially available thermal insulator.<br />
Check this <a href="https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP941svHu60zA2lb4uy-EiuVIoL_OkNFKMXv9HkmQv1IpC6mATvBaFGsN7UJP3WJQ/photo/AF1QipM7HDkOEud1xCaqrZpLhRm-gn60j6SNSTiuoUXR?key=MkJVWGdzUW9RWl9QNjZaaHVaQTVlc2VIOXpSeHhR&amp;hl=fi" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">video</a>! It's insane!!<br />
<br />
The flame is easily beyond the 1000 C mark and 10 mm above that, the highest reading we got was 64 C. Even that didn't feel warm at all, it was like cozy warm.<br />
<br />
Well, and since the extruder is going to put some weight on the scale, I'm also designing a sturdy end-effector made of 1,5 mm steel sheet metal. The parts will be laser cut and bonded with glue and rivets. I've put some thoughts into getting it torsionally stable. The line guiding and every load bearing part of the printer will need a redesign obviously, but we'll get there part by part.<br />
<br />
Let me hear your impression, feedback, etc.<br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Jan 2021 06:43:46 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,863955,863955#msg-863955</guid>
            <title>Scientific project v2 (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,863955,863955#msg-863955</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone.<br />
I hope it is good place to put that subject. <br />
I’m trying to build calibration equipment for echosounder. How the calibration looks like: <a href="http://www.fao.org/3/x5818e/x5818e86.gif" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">link</a><br />
<br />
That is practically very big Hangprinter without extruder.<br />
Each engine (winch) is steering wireless (two way) with LoRa communication. The setup what I have is remote control with display and PS2 pad.<br />
All stepper engines are with battery, Arduino, driver (TCM2130) and communication board. On my software a can move only one engine on the same time because all engines are not coordinated. I think that using existing software will be easier for upgrade it in the future.<br />
This is not commercial project only scientific. It doesn't have to be super accurate.<br />
I thought that remote control will be “master” board with Marlin firmware, and it will be sending commands to each engine separately (or together). Other “slave” board will be controlling the engines and of course position, with every maybe 10sec will be sending back to the “master”.<br />
<br />
My problem is that I have no idea where in the “master” program should I disconnect software from engines and put their communication function.<br />
Do someone of You know where is the place inside the program where are, let say, commands: “Left engine move 200 steps, Right 300 and Front -20 steps”?<br />
<br />
Maybe You have better idea how to do it. Maybe remote control should send only g-code. Sorry I'm stuck and I need someone smarter than me.<br />
Maybe I'll put some information what I already done.<br />
2 years ago I built first prototype. Before it we had 3 people and one operator. Through radio we was calling to each person like "Adam lower 50 cm and Jon pull up 1m" and we was working like that for 20years.<br />
Next it was 3 motors from drill machine, the really long (50m each) extension cables and 3 handles from drill machine inside operation room. Problem was that putting that cables through ship lasted 3-4 hours.<br />
So I built wireless version, I attached polulu encoders to existing engines, driver for 12v motors arduino with LoRa communication board. Problem is that You can ster only one engine at time, encoders are really sensitive and can stop working or <br />
even worse sending wrong pulses what correction algorithm interpret as uncontrolled movement so sometime engines didn't stop.<br />
Now we have 3 stepper motors with gears and winches, and I don't want to go it like before in Partizant way.<br />
<br />
Regards]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Azonips</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 Dec 2019 04:19:15 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,860731,860731#msg-860731</guid>
            <title>Motion unit development (41 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,860731,860731#msg-860731</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This thread is split up from the main thread.<br />
Down below you'll find previous discussions about the concept.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>atmark</strong><br />
I'm currently designing a bracket for the HP4 bldc servo motor and the spool, and I wanted to share my tests so far.<br />
The bracket is meant for the ODrive D5065 motor. My goal is to design a single motion unit, that includes the motor, a belt tensioner and the spool system in one rigid frame, which I probably am going to lasercut out of sheet metal. For now, I'm still thinking about the spool system. If you look few posts back in this thread, there was a discussion about the constant radius of the spool and how to compensate the line build up. An idea I had, was to route the line in a small groove in the middle of the GT2 spool, in the way that the belt is pressing it against the spool as you can see in the last pic.<br />
<br />
I just tried to block the spool from rotating and pulled the line as hard as I could and it didn't move at all :D<br />
It's still too early to say this concept works, but it is a promising start. It might be, that constant line movement is going to bite into the belt and it fails that way. You'll never know. What I'll do next is rerouting the end of the line onto a second spool, which I most likely will attach onto the same spool axle. And that spool will rotate independently from the first one. I was also thinking to spring load it, so that the excess line is always spooled up as the line moves.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>tobben</strong><br />
Cool!<br />
<br />
Independent spool units are nice.<br />
If you can place them at the anchors (instead of having all several spools at one anchor), you will get less line flex, since there will be less suspended line in the air.<br />
<br />
Good idea to pinch the line under the belt.<br />
That might actually work very well =D<br />
You could pinch it for several rounds (along a helix groove), or just increase the spool radius, if one round of pinched line isn't enough.<br />
<br />
It might be a challenge assure zero slippage over time, since both line and belt will change properties as they get old/worn down.<br />
Some data on that would be super interesting, like accelerating a 5kg weight quickly up and down 1 m 10000 times or something.<br />
Using high accelerations would be interesting because the belt will flex/contract a bit when tension changes, and I don't know how it will affect the line.<br />
Hopefully very little.<br />
<br />
Anyways, that might be a very nice upgrade of the spool system :)</div></blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>atmark</strong><br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
I just put a heavy weight on the line and looked first if the line holds, and after I couldn't see any slipping, I bounced the whole system until the line snapped <a href="https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP941svHu60zA2lb4uy-EiuVIoL_OkNFKMXv9HkmQv1IpC6mATvBaFGsN7UJP3WJQ/photo/AF1QipOdquy9sI6ztk9QW4ccuoGtGpWLGjevc3XIrvNQ?key=MkJVWGdzUW9RWl9QNjZaaHVaQTVlc2VIOXpSeHhR" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Video: testing slipping</a><br />
No slipping what so ever :D <br />
<br />
I believe the line should be able to handle 40 kg of drag, so friction-wise I can't see any issues. Obviously the long term failure rate is a question mark, but I think it might work quite well because the line isn't cutting radially into the belt. The only force is applied axially and the belt is pressed by the line by only 0,25 mm<br />
<br />
Your idea of hooking some weight on the line and do some repetitive acceleration testing sounds very good! I'll try to set up the electronics next week. What values would you suggest for weight, speed and acceleration?<br />
Here are also some close ups of the GT2 spool and the belt directly after the test. For the spool I used Octofiber PETG-CF.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>tobben</strong><br />
Woah, that's even more friction than I imagined. Impressive!<br />
<br />
CF enforced plastics have a quite rough surface.<br />
Where did the line snap?<br />
Was it the CF that wore down the line?<br />
<br />
Since I would be aiming for HP usage, I'd test numbers relevant to the application first.<br />
I'd use ca 50% more weight, speed and acceleration than my HP4 prototype is experiencing.<br />
So ca 5 kg of weight, accelerate 15 m/s² , up to 1 m/s. Use a distance of 1 m up and down, say 10k times.<br />
That's a 3h test. You could go crazy and just let it run all night if you're feeling confident ;)<br />
<br />
It would also be interesting to know if the mechanism works with pure PLA.<br />
A spool out of PLA printed hot (say 240 C) would give much less friction than the PLA-CF in your prototype, I guess.<br />
It would be interesting to know if it would still be enough, or if the CF is required.<br />
<br />
Images like the one you showed would be a very interesting part of the result.<br />
In particular, if the line does slip, I'm interested in how damaged the belt gets.<br />
Also interesting to know if a slipping line cuts into the spool.<br />
<br />
The mechanism is interesting in it's own right, so if the HP4 application proves to be well within limits of the mechanism, I would have done additional tests.<br />
Like, measuring a slowly applied force up until the line breaks or starts slipping, or until the plastic spool breaks.<br />
(Film a weight that is hooked onto a one end of a line, and pulled. Could capture both force and amount of slip/flex in one shot.)<br />
Abruptly applied force is also interesting (requires a high-speed camera, or a weight that can store a max value).</div></blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>atmark</strong><br />
Yeah, I was quite amazed too to be honest.<br />
<br />
The line snapped 5 mm before the knot I made to hold the weight. So the CF spool didn't have any effect on the snapping. I'm aware of the abrasive nature of CF, so it's not said that it could not happen, but in this case it didn't. I can print a new spool out of PLA, no problem. It will be interesting to test it.<br />
<br />
Let's see how I can setup a test rig. The motion repetition won't be a big issue once I get to setup the ODrive board and Duet. Is the firmware easy to install? Then, I assume a simple gcode does the magic?<br />
<br />
Btw, I wrote you yesterday a mail, but it's still in my to be sent folder (I forgot that the schools network is down for maintanance for couple of days) anyway, I wrote that I ordered braided PE fishing line that is two-colored (yellow/black), so it has a repetitive weave pattern, which could be used for line length readout with a IR sensor, as black plastic does not reflect IR light very well. That's why the material of black plastic can't be identified in automated recycling. Different plastics reflect IR light differently.<br />
<br />
So, additionally to the mechanics I was thinking about position feedback via sensor readout. Whats your opinion on that? There was also some discussion about measuring the line tension. Could that be useful to integrate in the motion system? At school we have a quite big range of sensors and other electronic equipment for prototyping. You can check technIcal details at <a href="https://www.seeedstudio.com/category/Grove-c-1003.html" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Seeedstudio Grove</a> <br />
You can hook these sensors very easy to arduino, rasbi, etc.</div></blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>tobben</strong><br />
Yes, the firmware should be straight forward to install. Just use the Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin you find in the repo (https://gitlab.com/tobben/hangprinter/tree/version_4_dev/firmware/RepRapFirmware), and follow standard Duet installation procedure. Gcode should to the magic, yes :) Be aware that your ODrive configuration will affect the movements. Max acceleration, max speed, step size etc needs to be configured correctly in the ODrive firmware. There's an example that matches my specific motors here: [<a href="https://gitlab.com/tobben/hangprinter/tree/version_4_dev/firmware/ODrive" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">gitlab.com</a>] Follow the official ODrive documentation to find numbers that match your motors.<br />
<br />
If the fishing line has any flex at all, this will affect the readings. So if the line (and hence the pattern) is stretched out, you might wind in 10.1 mm when you thought you did only 10.0.<br />
On the other hand, since you're detecting the pattern, you'll know when you have unwound the same segment of fishing line, regardless of how stretched it was when wound and unwound.<br />
This makes the system immune to a family of errors where flex is "stored" on the spool when wound in under heavy load.<br />
<br />
The line will always be twisted though. How would the system cope with that?<br />
And how would it behave if the line got very slack? Could we route the line through a very thin transparent tube, to keep it from kinking under the sensor?<br />
For such a sensor to be useful, it would need to be very fool proof since so many weird things can happen during a print.</div></blockquote><br/>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 09:00:13 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,860486,860486#msg-860486</guid>
            <title>The &quot;three wires suspended&quot; hangprinter (6 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,860486,860486#msg-860486</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey there Tobben<br />
<br />
I've taken a real interest in your hangprinter. I think the design is innovative, accessible and powerful. Great work.<br />
<br />
I want to print a house with a hangprinter. Examples include <a href="https://i.all3dp.com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=cover,w=1000,gravity=0.5x0.5,format=auto/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/01135110/the-house-even-stands-up-to-the-snow-apis-cor-180926.png" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this</a> and <a href="https://i.all3dp.com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=cover,w=1000,gravity=0.5x0.5,format=auto/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/01135116/who-said-a-3d-printed-house-cant-be-stylish-the-verge-180926.jpg" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this</a>.<br />
<br />
The current design has a printable area that shrinks as the structure becomes taller. As you can see <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/Hangprinter_3D_printer.jpg/888px-Hangprinter_3D_printer.jpg" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">here</a>, the guide wires restrict movement.<br />
<br />
When I pictured a hangprinter I imagined a design that looked like <a href="https://3dprint.com/31502/student-architects-sky-printer/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this</a> or <a href="https://youtu.be/TUPQ9ks-_i4" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">this</a>. I think an extruder suspended by three wires is much simpler and solves the issue of a narrowing printable area.<br />
<br />
But here's the thing... nobody uses this design. I suspect the reason you've arrived at your current design is because of trial and error (plus some clever engineering). I suspect you've tried the "three wire suspended" design before and found it was inaccurate or hard to control.<br />
<br />
I have two questions for you Tobben:<br />
<br />
1. If you had to print a house with a hangprinter, how would you do it? how would you design it? how would you optimise the printable area?<br />
<br />
2. What would be required to make the "three wires suspended" design work? Is it a matter of weight, tension and better firmware? Is there anything that can be added to improve it?<br />
<br />
These are burning questions I could not answer by reading your blog or watching your YouTube videos.<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Tom]]></description>
            <dc:creator>tswallen</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 13 Oct 2019 05:16:33 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,857724,857724#msg-857724</guid>
            <title>Filament hot swap (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,857724,857724#msg-857724</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Now that we have done some big prints I started to wonder if we could use the Prusa MMU2S for hot swapping the filaments during long prints (and why not multi color printing for that matter too). The SuperVulcano consumes a one kilo spool fairy quickly, so it's not possible to span the print over the whole length of the night. We are doing a lot of prints that are tight on schedule, so we would like to be able to print 24/7 without loading too often new spools. What kind of changes the firmware would need?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 21 Jan 2020 09:01:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,854014,854014#msg-854014</guid>
            <title>Mechaduino clone from Bigtreetech (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,854014,854014#msg-854014</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just putting this out there for interested parties.  I have no affiliation, and I haven't tried this item out myself.<br />
<br />
Google: Bigtreetech S42A]]></description>
            <dc:creator>CityZen</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2019 18:09:18 -0400</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,843539,843539#msg-843539</guid>
            <title>Concept for a tool changer effector (2 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,843539,843539#msg-843539</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey<br />
<br />
I've been busy last year designing, building and testing the frame for Hangprinter. There are still issues to be solved, but eventually the frame will be ready for publishing. Up until that, I'd like to make a proposal for a new effector design. The concept builds on <a href="https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/08/20/e3d-tool-changer-and-motion-system-beta-30-incoming/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">the tool changer idea</a> of e3d. Although the tool changer isn't published yet, I wanted to think ahead how one could be fitted on the Hangprinter.<br />
<br />
First the tool changer sled needs to be attached to the effector. <br />
Second you need to consider how it grabs the tool.<br />
Third we need a automatic storage &amp; cleaning station for the tool heads.<br />
<br />
Obviously, this is only the hardware part.<br />
<br />
Here's a render of the assembly<br />
[attachment 109226 Mover_2019-Jan-04_09-43-36PM-000_CustomizedView26388358771.png]<br />
<br />
As you can see, the front beam is missing. That's on purpose, since the triangle can't be a closed one. We need to route somehow the cables and bowden tubes (or whatever material feed) to a parking position. This will affect stability of the effector, but I'm hoping that the smaller center beams and the carrier plate will compensate it. It isn't tested yet though.<br />
[attachment 109227 Mover_2019-Jan-04_09-46-53PM-000_CustomizedView3659440189.png]<br />
<br />
I also designed a compact extruder unit based on the Titan Aero and the Vulcano.<br />
[attachment 109228 Mover_2019-Jan-05_09-03-57AM-000_CustomizedView6792796540.png]<br />
<br />
[attachment 109229 Mover_2019-Jan-05_09-04-20AM-000_CustomizedView708391615.png]<br />
<br />
There's also a Precision Piezo Orion sensor which will enable Z-height probing with the nozzle.<br />
[attachment 109230 Mover_2019-Jan-05_09-05-51AM-000_CustomizedView13978793657.png]<br />
<br />
And the part cooling is done by two radial fans, which will generate a vortex inside the fan duct (or at least I hope so). I've had many issues with braking fan ducts when they hit the print, so I decided to make the vulnerable parts out of metal sheets. Also for the sake making the duct as low as possible. Metal makes it also possible to bring the outlet as near as possible to the nozzle. This isn't tested yet either, so I can't say if its working the way I want it to. <br />
[attachment 109231 Mover_2019-Jan-05_09-07-28AM-000_CustomizedView32177152232.png]<br />
<br />
One thing that need still some attention is the cable management on/within the extruder unit. I'd like to terminate all cables from hotend, thermistor etc. on a single PCB and route them through one single connector to the controller. The connector should be connecting only by contact, that means without any mechanical fixture. I'm having the tool changer in mind here as well. Please give me a hint, if you know of such connectors.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 26 Jan 2020 14:05:52 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,842424,842424#msg-842424</guid>
            <title>Why are Hangprinters so rare? (3 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,842424,842424#msg-842424</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I got the question about why Hangprinters are so rare recently, and figured this was a good place to post my response and possibly have a discussion. If HP was a company, the reply below would be in the summary of some internal report. And I would have gray hair.<br />
<br />
My reply:<br />
"Getting a HP up and running is currently still a large undertaking. It requires lots of time, knowledge, and space. Those who have such resources have many tempting options for investing them. HP is not easy to find, unless you're among the ca 200k people who follow Tom and related channels closely.<br />
<br />
Even for those 200k people, it is not obvious how one creates value with a HP machine. It takes some fantasy and stretch of imagination. I've found that most artists can deliver 10 suggestions in 5 min, but most non-artists can only think of two applications: house printing and kit sales. Printing houses requires enormous investment. HP is also hard to make into a consumer product. This chills many's enthusiasm.<br />
<br />
Few HP builders actually achieve successful prints. Most builders still don't get over the calibration threshold. The day some successful HP builder prove to the world that economically sane applications exist, we should expect similar interest as Mendel-sized machines get, minus most of the low-investment hobbyists."<br />
<br />
Best regards,]]></description>
            <dc:creator>tobben</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2019 14:26:10 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,829243,829243#msg-829243</guid>
            <title>Adjustable frame for the Hangprinter (9 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,829243,829243#msg-829243</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi<br />
<br />
I've been designing and building a frame for the Hangprinter as it needs to be movable in my case. I need to set it up at different spots and I would like to be able to calibrate the frame in an easy manner. The design takes inspiration from Tobben's wooden frame, but adds more durability, sturdiness and adjustability. This includes the option to level the frame and print bed in relation to ground as well as in relation to the print head.<br />
<br />
The Z-anchors are still in development, but they will be vertically adjustable. Manually first, later on by winches.<br />
<br />
The print bed frame will rest on a big ball joint and it will have three screws for Z-height calibration. I haven't decided yet how those screws will be implemented. <br />
<br />
Height of those legs is 2-3 meters and distance from center 1-2 meters. Print bed diameter in the images is 1,5 meters. Height of the printer base plate from ground is 2,5 meters. The legs and cross bars are made of aluminum (30x30 and 40x40 mm). The print bed is thought to be tempered glass, but I could also go with an aluminium disc. The glass disc would weight around 20-30 kg depending on it's thickness. <br />
<br />
I would appreciate to hear your comments and ideas!<br />
<br />
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            <dc:creator>atmark</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 26 Jan 2020 09:34:11 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,792937,792937#msg-792937</guid>
            <title>Hangprinter version 3 (448 replies)</title>
            <link>https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?423,792937,792937#msg-792937</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This thread is for discussions between builders of Hangprinter version 3.<br />
<br />
At the time of thread start, version 3.3 lives in <a href="https://github.com/tobbelobb/hangprinter/tree/Openscad_version_3" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Openscad_version_3 branch of Hangprinter repo</a>.<br />
<br />
Mechaduino mounting, configuration and setup will be discussed here even though it is entirely possible to build a working Hangprinter v3 without Mechaduinos.<br />
Mechaduinos are expensive, but they give closed loop control, a handy torque mode for pushing mover around by hand, and possibly auto calibration in the future.<br />
Version 3 is designed such that Mechaduinos can be retrofitted.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>tobben</dc:creator>
            <category>Hangprinter</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2020 01:21:38 -0400</pubDate>
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