Reprap Forum - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Robots, childrens blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Heres my idea and heres the [[page]] on RepRaps wiki where we can log in and click edit. https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?88 Sun, 19 Jul 2026 20:58:05 -0400 Phorum 5.2.23 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,897481,897481#msg-897481 Nema 34 Planetary Gearbox (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,897481,897481#msg-897481
I have a gearbox design that is not under high initial torque or speed since it is a Nema 34 with only 180 oz-in holding torque at max, but it can achieve 111 oz-in of torque at around 750 rpm.

With that said, I would like to bounce off the design with any interested to make sure I'm not doing something foolish with it as I haven't made any gearboxes before but have made several custom printers. I know my printers are capable of making these gears which are 32P 20°PA spurs.

As for requirements: it is controlling an arm after the output via a HTD5M pulley 2:1 to the arm. This means all load to the gearbox is purely from the pulley output, not the arm.

Specs: 28T sun, 28T planets 4x, 84T ring. 3 stages at 4:1 each, 64:1 total reduction before final output to arm at 128:1. All gear bearings are R188 with 1/4"-20 bolts (not ideal, but I'm not spending the money on shoulder screws with how expensive they are). Center bearings: R6 (3/8" shaft) and 6807 (35mm) for the carriers. Finally, the output bearing is a 6810 (50mm).

The goal with this is the torque and slow speed. The Tpara arm isn't planned to be heavy, but with a 425mm center to center for both arms, thus weight should be under 10 lbf total. The other goal as seen in the model is the shaft seals to allow this to be pumped full of grease. I know this will have backlash to no end, but I can compensate that in firmware.

My questions for those interested:
Will the open bearings have enough gap for the grease to get through everything?
Will I absolutely need to up the pitch/module of the later stages?
Will I need to use PETG, ABS, PETG-CF, or resin for any of these parts?

Feel free to simply say the whole design should be thrown away, but a store bought gearbox for this (50:1) is normally $40-$50 minimum and none can work with this motor since it is a 3/8" shaft. The plan is to have three of these gearboxes, two for the arms, one for the slew.]]> Chip Bark Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 22 Feb 2026 17:25:34 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,892419,892419#msg-892419 Laser Toner Multi-color extruder (5 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,892419,892419#msg-892419
I heard that laser toner is a polyester plastic. So I dug around and found a supplier of white toner. I took tiny amounts of white and black toners. They easily mixed into a very smooth grey. They flow like water. I heated them until they melted and let them cool.

I imagine 5 tiny augers/screws pushing toner(s) into a central mixing chamber. The augers can spin at different rates to control the color blending. Somehow the mixed powder has to be forced into a melt area and pressure provided to extrude them.

I came up with the idea, tried it out, and am presenting it to all. Does anyone care to try to build such a thing for the community? I'll donate the toner cartridges I bought.

Mike]]> myearwood Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 04 Apr 2023 16:57:31 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,888864,888864#msg-888864 RepRapDiscount Smart Controller interfacing with Arduino Nano 3 ? (3 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,888864,888864#msg-888864 I have a unrelated project to 3d printing.
I want to use the 4x20 RepRapDiscount Smart Controller with an Arduino nano 3.
I like the display size and the fact that there is an encoder that could be useful tool.
Can I interface the display with the nano 3 directly by wiring or some other parts are required?
Thank you.

P.S.
After looking at reprap documentation for the discount smart controller I have learned that it is composed of DMC204LCD , the rotary encoder, sd card interface.
So what I need is to basically connect the DMC204LCD to the arduino nano 3 and go from there. Is it like any other lcd 16x2 or similar? Use 8 data lines but in half mode?
4 data and the other necessary pins.]]> konstantin.neo Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 27 Mar 2022 00:40:33 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,888513,888513#msg-888513 Can Bus printhead. (4 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,888513,888513#msg-888513
To do that I need to get some data (fan speed, set hotend temperature, step and direction signals for extruder stepper driver etc . . .) from the control board running Marlin firmware to an STM32 board that supports CAN bus witch will send it to another board on the xy carriage over the CAN bus. The CAN bus stuff should be relatively simple but the main problem I have is getting that data from Marlin.

I'm thinking I could use I2C to get that data out but the firmware is rather large and I don't know where (in what file) to get that data from. Can anyone here offer some good advice?]]> hermit Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 27 Mar 2022 09:49:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,887862,887862#msg-887862 Magnetic ball joint: square tube mount ? (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,887862,887862#msg-887862

my intention is as follows, and I need specific advice to accomplish it:

to mount a square tube (outer length of 'square' 3.5 cm, tube length 8 cm, weight 280 gr approx. in equal distribution across tube) via a threaded cup magnet screwed directly onto the ball of a magnetic ball joint ("MBJ"). The weight of magnet is included in the 280 gr. Magnet is comparatively thin and will sit directly on the ball, which has adequate threaded stud -- no unnecessary lever here. (In contrast, the tube constitutes considerable lever.)

My question is:
Which MINIMUM SIZE of MBJ is required so that the load described above is hold securely in place, regardless of ball's position in joint ?
(Assuming there's no particular additional force, neither supporting nor disruptive, just the 'usual background conditions' such as gravity.)
Of course, the answer depends on type of MBJ.
However, searching the internet, there seems to be only one kind of MBJ commercially available anyway, but in several sizes starting at 8 mm ball diameter.

Anyone here who can offer some good advice ?]]> RonaldM Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sat, 15 Jan 2022 05:33:18 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,859063,859063#msg-859063 Toy gun trigger mechanism? (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,859063,859063#msg-859063
Im looking for a trigger mechanism that can repeat itself without the need to cock the firing pin. I basically want to hit a bell repeatedly. I remember that toy revolvers like this [www.youtube.com] have exactly the kind of action i need.
Has someone come across a model or drawing of such a mechanism somewhere?]]> sungod3k Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 08 Sep 2019 17:45:04 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,858418,858418#msg-858418 AV Rack - Profile Selection (Newbie) (2 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,858418,858418#msg-858418
Here is what I am trying to build. An AV Rack for 1 Receiver, 2 Amplifiers and 1 Center speaker (See Attached image). Here are some of the details.

Dimensions:
Pt -> Profile Thickness
6 Columns -> 18" / each
6 Side Beams -> 20" - (2 x Pt) = About 19.5" / each
5 Front Beams - > (48" - (3 x Pt)) / 2 = About 23.5" / Each
5 Back Beams - > (48" - (3 x Pt)) / 2 = About 23.5" / Each

Loads
1 Receiver 15 Kg
2 Amplifiers 5 Kg / each
1 Center speaker 10 Kg

These Loads will mostly be placed on wooden panels, which will be loaded onto the appropriate beams.

For the connections, I intend to use, Angle Brackets + Inside Corner connectors.
The Beams loaded onto the columns using the Angle brackets.
The beams side by side to each other, possibly connected using Inside corner connectors (Something like the pic here).

What profile would I need?
Would a 2020 Medium T-Profile suffice?]]> ShaQBlogs Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Thu, 20 Feb 2020 18:15:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,855658,855658#msg-855658 Manual Controlboard Pen (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,855658,855658#msg-855658 TheBoy Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Thu, 27 Jun 2019 03:03:01 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,832023,832023#msg-832023 Using Heater Cartridge at higher Voltage? (5 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,832023,832023#msg-832023
I am designing a DIY soldering station and need a heater element, I have a 48V, 2.5A power supply, and a 20 ohm heater would be perfect for this.
A 30 watt 24V heater should have a resistance of 19.2 ohms, so I would like to use a heater cartridge, but I am concerned that 48V would kill a 24V heater. I do not know how the heater cartrages are internaly, could someone who knows more about this than me know if it would servive 48V, or link me to some infermation about the heater cartridge work at higher voltages?

Also would the heater cartrage designed for a 3D printer be able to survive 350 degrees C?

Edit: I will use a MOSFET to pwm control the wattage, I am not going to constantly have ~120W flowing through iron, only during heatup.]]> cooperhero Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 13 Nov 2018 02:51:59 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,828614,828614#msg-828614 Updating an old MakerBot cupcake - mechanical & electrical (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,828614,828614#msg-828614
I'm recently realizing my need for a quick prototype printer - something to use to verify designs as I go. You know those it looks about right but let's print an outline and see if it actually fits the space moments.

Spend half my design time waiting on the cr-10s or kossel to be free to do this.

I found a few odd and end posts on similar - anyone have similar thoughts and want to tag team it? My cupcake is fully toast, I ran it until it would run no more. Need to replace most of the mechanics, I know it's Arduino was toast and I think so was the driver for the extruder. But I have a ramps sitting here, as well as most of the hardware to overhaul...]]> hephaestus Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 15 Jul 2018 13:14:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,822722,822722#msg-822722 Garmin GPS mount for bikes (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,822722,822722#msg-822722
I'm designing this Garmin GPS mount for my bike - I'm not worried just yet about how to attach it to the bike, I'm concentrating on attaching the GPS computer to the mount. Anyway, my design is attached.

My question is - how do I print it? The upper lip is quite an overhang (2mm maybe?) and if I flip it then the bottom plate would be at the top and require support.

Any advice welcome!

Cheers

Joe]]> JoeK1973 Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 20 May 2018 02:27:06 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,817597,817597#msg-817597 RepRaoDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller not working (5 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,817597,817597#msg-817597 #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

But still it was showing only green light like the attached Untitled-min. if it is connected with PC by USB port. If I remove the USB port, then it does not show anything like power off. But my RUMBA control board is connected with 12V and 30 Amps power supply.

What is the problem , Please sir help me/.........[attachment 104048 Untitled-min.png]]]> mubarak111nsu Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 22 Apr 2018 14:48:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,811336,811336#msg-811336 Virtual Reality Omni-Shoes (6 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,811336,811336#msg-811336 methods of moving in a virtual enviroment. infinadeck seems to be the best option but it's probably too expensive for me.

Vortrex looks a nice concept, I would like to try and see what it feels like having my forward motion cancelled out.
By building my own conveyor belt shoes, there is a video on youtube demonstrating powered shoes

[www.youtube.com]
The prototype above, uses roller skates powered by two motors with flexible shafts
This is similar to what I want to replicate. I dont mind being tethered by power cables.

I'm trying to source the main components, my weight is 10 stone. What motors/flexible shafts are suitable for operating under such load conditions?.
Last thing I want, is to spend money on rotary grinders only too find out they're no good for the purpose.
Whats the strongest stepper motor available? capable of moving my weight on a treadmill for instance.]]> user64 Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 02 Oct 2018 20:41:00 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,808304,808304#msg-808304 V large 3d build advice (18 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,808304,808304#msg-808304 I am looking for some general strategic advice and to be pointed in the direction of information to help flesh out my build idea.
I'm newish to this. Thank you in advance for any help.

I need to build a printer that has a 5' wide 1' deep by 4 ' tall print area (I know this seems crazy and no I can't print in pieces.)
the printer should be able to run for a 30 day print time.
the printer should have a pause feature...see above long print time :)
I would love if it had quiet steppers and drivers.

I have a little experience and have built a light object 100w laser cutter from the ground up and have spent the last 6 months 3d printing.
I have a background in Industrial design. Essentially I know just enough about things to be able to understand how stuff works but not in super depth.

My plan to achieve this was going to be to take the extra Creality cr10 I have and use it as a starting point.
1. buy more 80/20 and expand the print bed
2. swap out the motherboard inside the control box with a 32 bit board with more steps and quieter drivers.
3. alter the marlin print drivers that are standard for creality to use the new print bed size
4. lengthen the cables to match the new print bed dimensions.
5. switch from Bowden to direct extruder for ease of not having a 7 foot Bowden tube
6. have a piece of aluminum cut and drilled to be used as the new 5' long build plate.
7. find a 4' tall lead screw

So in my head, this seems like the logical thing to do, start with something you know works well and alter it. Am I oversimplifying this?
I have never done this before, I am open to any thoughts of what I am overlooking, missing completely, not considering etc..

where is a trusted source for 80/20 and pieces for the new frame?
lead screw for z axis supplier?
should all axis use lead screws?
Can nema 17/23 steppers handle being on continusly for a month?

Cheers
Ez]]> chromaglow Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 13 Mar 2018 04:24:37 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,807818,807818#msg-807818 Making larger parts suitable for higher RPM's (3 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,807818,807818#msg-807818 .

The fan that bolts to the flywheel is available in many aftermarket upgrade varieties, but is usually CNC'd from billet and rather expensive. Making as a print offers lighter weight if desired as well as the possibility of editing the vane geometry to try for most effective blower that uses the least amount of power. There are many competing designs & claims on the market, a few shown in the enclosed pics.

My question is whether it's possible to tell any of the slicers available that laying the strands essentially radially is the highest priority? Does it seem that this would yield the strongest part? The fan is about 195 mm in diameter and might see 10,000 RPM from a hopped up motor on a good day.

Any suggestions for slicing and what strong filament a noob might try(have heated bed) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
]]> scoot Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 09 Apr 2023 08:56:02 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,806450,806450#msg-806450 Graphene bed/pressure sensor? (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,806450,806450#msg-806450 www.instructables.com] which describes making a putty whose conductivity varies with pressure by mixing graphene into it.

Now, the putty itself isn't that interesting for 3D printing (IMHO), and graphene powder is expensive ($2-$400/gram), but I wonder whether there's an application of this new wonder-product?

Google also found this paper on a graphene-based piezo pressure sensor: [www.scribd.com]

I'm thinking that something like this [www.aliexpress.com] might vary its resistance with tiny amounts of bending or compression?

Has anyone else looked into this?]]> frankvdh Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sat, 20 Jan 2018 16:33:53 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,805958,805958#msg-805958 Automatic Part Removal Using Ejector Pins like injection moulding. (4 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,805958,805958#msg-805958 www.fabbaloo.com].

I think it could be very interesting to remove the parts from the print bed. Using pins at an angle could even help slide the part of the bed into a small bin.


What do you guys think?


[attachment 101610 download.jpg]


[attachment 101611 download1.jpg]]]> rikesh942010 Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 23 Jan 2018 03:36:21 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,801539,802291#msg-802291 Re: Need A 3D Model? I Can Help You Design It!! (-1 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,801539,802291#msg-802291
A milling machine needs a very sturdy frame, otherwise the frame will flex when the milling bit is pushed against the work piece. At best, this will result in bad surface finish, at worst you will end up having bad wrongly sized cuts all over your part.

A 3d printer on the other hand needs a very light gantry and affector, because you want to reach much higher speeds. If you were to use a proper sturdy cnc milling machine and turn it into a 3d printer, even ver, small prints will end up taking days.]]> Cyclonit Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,801539,802082#msg-802082 Re: Need A 3D Model? I Can Help You Design It!! (-1 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,801539,802082#msg-802082
You found the appropriate place and posted there, now leave the rest of the forums free of your adverts!]]> Dust Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Wed, 31 Dec 1969 19:00:00 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,801993,801993#msg-801993 3D printer, laser engraver, plotter, and milling machine in ONE (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,801993,801993#msg-801993
I'm new here. Is it possible to combine 3d printer, laser engraver, plotter, and milling machine in one Graphical User interface, like Pronterface?
Thank you in advance. I really need it sir/ma'am]]> Newbiery Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Fri, 22 Dec 2017 11:09:54 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,796441,796441#msg-796441 opensource top down sla printer (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,796441,796441#msg-796441 walle Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Wed, 15 Nov 2017 07:09:47 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,796009,796009#msg-796009 custom prusa i3 (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,796009,796009#msg-796009 walle Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Sun, 12 Nov 2017 05:22:36 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,795576,795576#msg-795576 Dual Extruder single hotend remix help (3 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,795576,795576#msg-795576
[www.thingiverse.com]

Now the changes I want to make:

1) change the exit for the connection to fit more standard Pneumatic Fittings PC4-M6 type [www.aliexpress.com]
2) Change the top input to have an integrated filament sensor on both.
3) Change the top top input to accept the same PC4-M6 fitting as the desired output.
4) a fitting system to allow for connection to 2020 or 3030 frame extrusion.

I have tried for a week to figure out how to do this but my skills are way lacking....
Anyone able to do this and help out? I have no $ to put to it... no clue how to use OpenScad [www.openscad.org]

I imported the STL into sketchup and cleaned it up and tried after that for days with no luck.

Hopeing someone might want to do the remix and release it all theirs, I just want the part :)

Thanx regardless.]]> JustSumGuy Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 21 Nov 2017 13:06:54 -0500 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,788180,788180#msg-788180 Electronic bent rod compensation (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,788180,788180#msg-788180
move probe to X=0 then towards ruller/wire, once contacted record Y position,
move Y+10
move X+20
move Y until wire/ruller contacted - record Y position
move Y+10
move X+20
move Y until wire/ruller contacted - record Y position

all results outside of the line between (0, contact point) and (200, contact point) would be a compensation value applied to X axis.


Another way would be to draw a grid with a pen/marker attached to hotend, take a picture of it then have a program process the picture to calculate a compensation grid that would be uploaded to printer's firmware.

EDIT: this feature would be even more useful with carbon fiber rods that cannot be straightened]]> newbob Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Thu, 12 Oct 2017 16:13:13 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,784508,784508#msg-784508 rc-controlled fpv rover carried by drone (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,784508,784508#msg-784508
just wanted to throw in an idea (fully private, no commercial project behind it), here is the description:

A drone like a phantom carries a device for ground movement (earth, water, snow, etc.) .
The drone brings the vehicle to the desired area and places it to to the ground.
The "rover" explores (manually or automatically controlled).
After its mission is done, the drone catches the rover and brings it back to where it came from.
Just like the mars rovers, but here on earth and without loosing the rover... (:D

The idea shot into my head when I saw this:
[www.thingiverse.com]

[attachment 97423 tankonthingiverse.PNG]

Sure, there are some challenges to this (to name some: weight of the rover to be able to be carried, radio connection to the rover, save and exact pick up of the rover, etc.).
But somehow I am sure this is something makers can do without industry behind it. I'd like to build this :)
Let's discuss.]]> automotives Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 22 Aug 2017 06:21:44 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,783561,783561#msg-783561 Custom 3D Printer Build (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,783561,783561#msg-783561
I fried the stock PCB and replaced it with an OOYSOO Base 1.5.... The printer worked, and after some fine tuning (A lot of rough tuning, too]]> The3dguy14 Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Tue, 15 Aug 2017 19:11:34 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,782979,782979#msg-782979 Sketch up Enclosure for Graber (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,782979,782979#msg-782979

[graber3d.wordpress.com]

(Its the version 2 with acrylics)

The website is in portuguese but you can just scroll it until you see the Download icon in the middle of the page

Thanks in advance]]> hapo1313 Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Fri, 11 Aug 2017 20:53:46 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,771168,771168#msg-771168 kill(ing) machine (tiny little vampire insects not humans) X( (no replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,771168,771168#msg-771168
use the 3D printer to print the plastic housing, basically it's an air heating machine.
use a 12ft 4inch (~100mm) drying hose to suck the hot air back in. use those aluminum bubble sun blockers for the car (sew em or velcro them together as a tented area) like around the bed. use an arduino to switch the heating elements on and off. use temp sensors like the one in the buda to measure the exit and intake temp as well as like one to put some where in the things to be heated. goal is 120-140 degrees F, so 48 to 60 degrees Celcius. for like two hours that should eradicate the critters.
I choose 2x 200W 12V modules as well as 4x 12V 50W modules, because the power draw can be like 3x in the beginning I figured the start-up sequences have to be on a delay first 1 200W modules then a minute later the second 200W module then the 4x50 watt modules one at a time.
figure I would need either one really hefty pc psu or two in parallel handling one 200 W one each and 2 50 Watt ones each. I know trying to use psu's in series won't work but in parallel they should.

three things I need help with:
1. Mosfet selection since the transient spike might be 50 amps for the bigger modules.
only gonna bang on and off.
2. resistor selection for the temp probe circuits because were not using reprap temperature ranges the 4.7k resistors used in out electronics are designed for a 180C - 260C range of detection what resistors should I choose for a 45C- 75C range.
3. in the future after this first design I might want to change it 110V heaters and these ptc heaters can take AC. then I won't need these PC PSU's but I will need SSR's by then I will have an exact idea of the power needed to create the warmth I need. and I'll be able to go with one or two ptc modules. (maybe two to reduce the grid spikes). what kind of transistor would you recommend to power on(ehh turn on the switching voltage) one of those ssr's?
feel free to chime in folks will be using one of those pro mini clones for the computing they can be used just like a regular arduino.

terramir]]> terramir Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Wed, 31 May 2017 16:26:59 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,762719,762719#msg-762719 V-Plotter with RAMPS 1.4 (1 reply) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,762719,762719#msg-762719 I want to make Hanging plotter (v-plotter) with Arduino Mega, RAMPS 1.4 and two stepper motors. I'll think about pen lifting later.

There is no problems with the basic hardware setup.

The problem is software.

I've tried Marlin + Repetier, but it didn't work, I couldn't even make single motor run.

Ok, so there are some guides.

Polargraph software release: https://github.com/euphy/polargraphcontroller/releases/tag/2016-03-29-10-23

Using the Polargraph software with RAMPS motorshield - tweaking Arduino firmware.
https://github.com/euphy/polargraph/wiki/Using-the-Polargraph-software-with-RAMPS-motorshield

Tweaking polargraphcontroller to be able to run it on Linux and connect to MEGA +RAMPS https://github.com/euphy/polargraphcontroller/issues/14

The hardware is fully working - tested with ramps14test, motors spin, it's ok.
The problem is that even having polargraphcontroller connected to the board, sending and receiving all the needed commands, the motors themselves do not move. Assembly is tested and working. ramps14test rotates motors around as it should.

Where do I have something broken?]]> mnom Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Mon, 17 Apr 2017 07:39:26 -0400 https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,761488,761488#msg-761488 3d printing PCB (14 replies) https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?88,761488,761488#msg-761488
I am going to make a 3d printer which can print PCBs. I would like to ask you what it must be capable of to be of use to you. So far we have come up with these:
The time it takes to print a PCB should be within a reasonable amount of time.
People with basic knowlegde of electronics and programming must be able to use it with reasonble ease.
The maximum voltage of the PCBs must be 5V or more.
The PCB should have reasonable temperatures during the printing process
The printer must also be able to print the materials a normal 3d printer uses.

Please note that were students and that we dont have acces to a unlimited amount of money.

Thank you for replying
Matthijsb00]]> Matthijsb00 Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...) Wed, 04 Oct 2017 06:28:47 -0400