Tantillus portable 3D printer
Posted by Sublime
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Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 12:16AM |
0.2mm layer heights, no broken threads, I don't have any pictures at the moment, but prints look like this:
I can't remember what my accel settings are, quite a lot higher than the defaults in sprinter.
I can't remember what my accel settings are, quite a lot higher than the defaults in sprinter.
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Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 01:11AM |
These are some parts I printed today to show the resonance effect.
Both are printed with the same PLA and with 0.5 nozzles. (the high frequency video is using a 0.35mm nozzle)
And like I said in the last post I am not putting down any of the other machines.
The effect you see on the Prusa printed parts are very minor and only visible when printing in dark solid colors. Also the effect is so small you can not feel it, but under some light you can see it.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2012 01:11AM by Sublime.
Both are printed with the same PLA and with 0.5 nozzles. (the high frequency video is using a 0.35mm nozzle)
And like I said in the last post I am not putting down any of the other machines.
The effect you see on the Prusa printed parts are very minor and only visible when printing in dark solid colors. Also the effect is so small you can not feel it, but under some light you can see it.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2012 01:11AM by Sublime.
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Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 02:06AM |
Hi Sublime,
first of all thanks for your work - Tantillus just looks georgous and fits exactly into what i was looking for as a second printer. I will move to a new house some time next year and will have the prusa downstairs in the work room so i need a second one for my office upstairs
I wanted to have something that is cased and small but still fun working with. Tantillus looks exactly what i need.
I still have some spare parts from my prusa that i could use here, i have a arduino mega around and Pololu stepper drivers so not much needed.
Some questions left:
- What hotend are you using? have you planned to release different extruder versions for different hotends?
- you don't use a heated bed so far, do you? That was my prefered version also (PLA only)
- What power supply do you use? I read somewhere that its integrated.
- Is the electronic and cables somehow accessible for maintenance? i tbink about tuning stepper power...
you should have an option in your Indiegogo campaign to donate some money to get the files and details earlier
Thanks again for your good work - keep it up!
Frank
Frank
first of all thanks for your work - Tantillus just looks georgous and fits exactly into what i was looking for as a second printer. I will move to a new house some time next year and will have the prusa downstairs in the work room so i need a second one for my office upstairs
I wanted to have something that is cased and small but still fun working with. Tantillus looks exactly what i need. I still have some spare parts from my prusa that i could use here, i have a arduino mega around and Pololu stepper drivers so not much needed.
Some questions left:
- What hotend are you using? have you planned to release different extruder versions for different hotends?
- you don't use a heated bed so far, do you? That was my prefered version also (PLA only)
- What power supply do you use? I read somewhere that its integrated.
- Is the electronic and cables somehow accessible for maintenance? i tbink about tuning stepper power...
you should have an option in your Indiegogo campaign to donate some money to get the files and details earlier
Thanks again for your good work - keep it up!
Frank
Frank
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Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 02:51AM |
Helmi Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I still have some spare parts from my prusa that i
> could use here, i have a arduino mega around and
> Pololu stepper drivers so not much needed.
>
> Some questions left:
>
> - What hotend are you using? have you planned to
> release different extruder versions for different
> hotends?
The kits have a J-head Mk-IV-B in both 0.5mm and 0.35mm. I suggest to run the 0.5 first as 0.35 is very easy to clog and requires you to have it perfectly calibrated.
Edit: I should add that it uses a groove mount so almost any groove mount hotend can be used the only thing that needs consideration is the length. It can be shorter than a J-head by about 20mm which would give it a build height of 120mm's but if it is any longer than a J-head it will reduce the build height.
> - you don't use a heated bed so far, do you? That
> was my prefered version also (PLA only)
I have built 7 different machines in the past 2 years and only one has a heated bed and that is the one I never use. I found that blue tape worked so well and the finish matches the sides far better than when printed on glass. But that is not to say I have not considered having heated beds made for Tantillus or just use a makerbot cupcake or thingomatic heated bed as it is the same size.
> - What power supply do you use? I read somewhere
> that its integrated.
It uses a laptop power supply rated at 90 watts (15v @ 5/6A) and is plugged into a Q-type power connector fitted in the back of the case. This allows you to use a cigarette lighter adapter to power it in a car, work van, RV, etc. And yeah back when the first pictures of the printed case were released a lot of speculation was made on things like batteries. Which are still possible as it has just enough space to fit a cordless drill battery in the bottom between the extruder, RAMPS board, LCD and Z motor.
> - Is the electronic and cables somehow accessible
> for maintenance? i tbink about tuning stepper
> power...
Yes the bottom is completely open on the laser cut case and the printed case should have a bottom which gets screwed to the lip in the bottom of the case. I installed the electronics in the printed case by screwing them to the bottom panel which is removable. The electronics are mounted to the left side panel of the laser cut case.
>
> you should have an option in your Indiegogo
> campaign to donate some money to get the files and
> details earlier
The case files are available already for everyone and the rest will only be 27 more days ( I do promise to release the files the day the campaign ends regardless of reaching the funding goal )
The files live [github.com]
>
> Thanks again for your good work - keep it up!
>
Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to look through my other github repos I have lots of cool stuff to print.
> Frank
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2012 02:58AM by Sublime.
-------------------------------------------------------
> I still have some spare parts from my prusa that i
> could use here, i have a arduino mega around and
> Pololu stepper drivers so not much needed.
>
> Some questions left:
>
> - What hotend are you using? have you planned to
> release different extruder versions for different
> hotends?
The kits have a J-head Mk-IV-B in both 0.5mm and 0.35mm. I suggest to run the 0.5 first as 0.35 is very easy to clog and requires you to have it perfectly calibrated.
Edit: I should add that it uses a groove mount so almost any groove mount hotend can be used the only thing that needs consideration is the length. It can be shorter than a J-head by about 20mm which would give it a build height of 120mm's but if it is any longer than a J-head it will reduce the build height.
> - you don't use a heated bed so far, do you? That
> was my prefered version also (PLA only)
I have built 7 different machines in the past 2 years and only one has a heated bed and that is the one I never use. I found that blue tape worked so well and the finish matches the sides far better than when printed on glass. But that is not to say I have not considered having heated beds made for Tantillus or just use a makerbot cupcake or thingomatic heated bed as it is the same size.
> - What power supply do you use? I read somewhere
> that its integrated.
It uses a laptop power supply rated at 90 watts (15v @ 5/6A) and is plugged into a Q-type power connector fitted in the back of the case. This allows you to use a cigarette lighter adapter to power it in a car, work van, RV, etc. And yeah back when the first pictures of the printed case were released a lot of speculation was made on things like batteries. Which are still possible as it has just enough space to fit a cordless drill battery in the bottom between the extruder, RAMPS board, LCD and Z motor.
> - Is the electronic and cables somehow accessible
> for maintenance? i tbink about tuning stepper
> power...
Yes the bottom is completely open on the laser cut case and the printed case should have a bottom which gets screwed to the lip in the bottom of the case. I installed the electronics in the printed case by screwing them to the bottom panel which is removable. The electronics are mounted to the left side panel of the laser cut case.
>
> you should have an option in your Indiegogo
> campaign to donate some money to get the files and
> details earlier
The case files are available already for everyone and the rest will only be 27 more days ( I do promise to release the files the day the campaign ends regardless of reaching the funding goal )
The files live [github.com]
>
> Thanks again for your good work - keep it up!
>
Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to look through my other github repos I have lots of cool stuff to print.
> Frank
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2012 02:58AM by Sublime.
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| Tantillus.org | Mini Printable Lathe | How NOT to install a Pololu driver |
|
Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 04:05AM |
Your video is set to private
Frank
Frank
|
Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 04:16AM |
Helmi Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Your video is set to private
Oops... fixed. I had as private while Youtube performed its edits.
-------------------------------------------------------
> Your video is set to private
Oops... fixed. I had as private while Youtube performed its edits.
| FFF Settings Calculator | Gcode post processors | Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog |
| Tantillus.org | Mini Printable Lathe | How NOT to install a Pololu driver |
|
Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 05:00AM |
> Yes/no I do have dxf and svg but they do not have
> any built in offset for milling. You will have to
> do that yourself.
dxf files should never have any offset for production. this is done from the CAM software in next step - so not a problem at all.
> Its designed in Blender as I am a mesh modeller.
> But I did make it largely parametric as to make my
> life easier (80-90%) only a few parts are modelled
> manually via mesh manipulation and they were for
> cosmetic reasons.
I guess i have to have a closer look at blender. Working with google sketchup and OpenSCAD only so far. didn't even know blender makes it possible to make things parametric.
> But I really don't think it will
> be necessary to make a metric version as most of
> the holes are metric sizes ( I model in metric but
> use imperial parts because Canada stocks Imperial
> hardware despite being a metric country ). The
> only thing that could cause an issue for the
> metric are the nut traps in the X/Y axis ends
> which are need to hold the nuts because you can
> not hold them with a wrench even if you wanted
> to.
hm ok - well i'll have a closer look as soon as the files are released. Would be good if everything metric fits well so i just have to find out where to get 5/16" rods or bearings that fit on 8mm ones.
btw regarding all other posts on that topic here in the thread: I have several different rods in different quality and they all measure 7,99mm to 8,01mm - maybe you have to by worse quality to get that 7,95 ones
> If anyone finds that a metric size will not work
> they can post in the support forum
> [forums.reprap.org] and I will
> most likely be able to make the change if they are
> not able to.
That's a good deal - thank you.
Frank
Frank
> any built in offset for milling. You will have to
> do that yourself.
dxf files should never have any offset for production. this is done from the CAM software in next step - so not a problem at all.
> Its designed in Blender as I am a mesh modeller.
> But I did make it largely parametric as to make my
> life easier (80-90%) only a few parts are modelled
> manually via mesh manipulation and they were for
> cosmetic reasons.
I guess i have to have a closer look at blender. Working with google sketchup and OpenSCAD only so far. didn't even know blender makes it possible to make things parametric.
> But I really don't think it will
> be necessary to make a metric version as most of
> the holes are metric sizes ( I model in metric but
> use imperial parts because Canada stocks Imperial
> hardware despite being a metric country ). The
> only thing that could cause an issue for the
> metric are the nut traps in the X/Y axis ends
> which are need to hold the nuts because you can
> not hold them with a wrench even if you wanted
> to.
hm ok - well i'll have a closer look as soon as the files are released. Would be good if everything metric fits well so i just have to find out where to get 5/16" rods or bearings that fit on 8mm ones.
btw regarding all other posts on that topic here in the thread: I have several different rods in different quality and they all measure 7,99mm to 8,01mm - maybe you have to by worse quality to get that 7,95 ones
> If anyone finds that a metric size will not work
> they can post in the support forum
> [forums.reprap.org] and I will
> most likely be able to make the change if they are
> not able to.
That's a good deal - thank you.
Frank
Frank
|
Re: Tantillus portable 3D printer May 19, 2012 05:11AM |
Helmi Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I guess i have to have a closer look at blender.
> Working with google sketchup and OpenSCAD only so
> far. didn't even know blender makes it possible to
> make things parametric.
Its not a well known fact. But blender uses "modifiers" which can be left un-applied. These modifiers are things like Boolean (union, difference and intersect), bevels, subdividing and smoothing, etc
If you ever want to learn Blender I suggest Blendercookie.com . They have lots of tutorials (some apply to what we do and some don't) and after doing 4-5 of them you will have a grasp on the basics. Just remember it can do a lot that other programs can not. Like boolean any two objects together regardless of manifoldedness.
> btw regarding all other posts on that topic here
> in the thread: I have several different rods in
> different quality and they all measure 7,99mm to
> 8,01mm - maybe you have to by worse quality to get
> that 7,95 ones
Since the bushings that ride on the shafts that turn in the 608's are printed you can use regular 8mm round stock that usually comes in around 7.9 and just print the bushings a little smaller.
-------------------------------------------------------
> I guess i have to have a closer look at blender.
> Working with google sketchup and OpenSCAD only so
> far. didn't even know blender makes it possible to
> make things parametric.
Its not a well known fact. But blender uses "modifiers" which can be left un-applied. These modifiers are things like Boolean (union, difference and intersect), bevels, subdividing and smoothing, etc
If you ever want to learn Blender I suggest Blendercookie.com . They have lots of tutorials (some apply to what we do and some don't) and after doing 4-5 of them you will have a grasp on the basics. Just remember it can do a lot that other programs can not. Like boolean any two objects together regardless of manifoldedness.
> btw regarding all other posts on that topic here
> in the thread: I have several different rods in
> different quality and they all measure 7,99mm to
> 8,01mm - maybe you have to by worse quality to get
> that 7,95 ones
Since the bushings that ride on the shafts that turn in the 608's are printed you can use regular 8mm round stock that usually comes in around 7.9 and just print the bushings a little smaller.
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| Tantillus.org | Mini Printable Lathe | How NOT to install a Pololu driver |
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