Tantillus portable 3D printer

Or you got caught out.

gerards1111, I really don't see why you feel like you need to make any further comments. Your narrow point of view is very clear and now you are just clogging up this thread, please refrain from commenting further.

Sublime - great work, the laser cut version looks fantastic!

The laser cut version looks like all the other laser cut versions. The innovation could have been the plastic case but as has been pointed out this takes 100 hours of printing hence the standard laser cut version.

The printed gears are a step back.

It would be ok if he wasn't charging a premium price.

Again where is the balance. I'm sure sublime wasn't expecting everyone to fawn over his design? What would be the point of that.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2012 03:26PM by gerards1111.

You're doin' your best to make what a troll is made of

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Frank

Que?

Again I have offered constructive feedback. I'm sure you all do the same.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2012 03:59PM by gerards1111.

constructive – Carefully considered and meant to be helpful.

source: [en.wiktionary.org]

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Frank

Helmi Wrote:
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> Guess i'll take some 608s out of the drawer and
> give the steel dealer a visit next week - we will
> see ;-)
>
> I still have to decide whether to use LM8UU (i
> have some of them here), printed ones or the IGUS
> RJMP-01-08 i use on the prusa. The latter do a
> really good job on my Prusa and are running
> completely soft and silent.
>
> Thanks for your hints regarding blender - i'll
> give that a try some day soon.

The fully printed red bot has all printed bushings in the videos of it.

The rest of the videos use LM8uu's and LM8suu's in the carriage and printed bushings on the rotating shafts as LM8uu's can not have the shaft rotating inside of them with out wearing flat spots on the balls inside.

The natural wood machine has Iglide j flange ( JFI-0507-08 ) press fit bushings which are designed for linear and rotational motion combined. But I found them far to hard to get just right as they require a precise press fit that is hard to achieve with printed parts. I printed 4 holders at once using multiply on my Prusa and some over compressed the Iglide and some under. I also found no advantage using them, if anything they squeak while the printed ones do not.

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The igus i was talking about are these ones [www.igus.de] (sorry german only as it seems) - they're running great in my Prusa and should work on rotating rods, too.

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Frank

Helmi Wrote:
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> The igus i was talking about are these ones
> [www.igus.de]
> in__R__RJMP&C=DE&L=de (sorry german only as it
> seems) - they're running great in my Prusa and
> should work on rotating rods, too.

Thanks those are really nice and are drop in replacements for LM series linear bearings. I will order some for testing.

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Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> constructive – Carefully considered and meant to
> be helpful.
>
> source: [en.wiktionary.org]


It is constructive. I'm sure sublime and others have been critical of other designs. In my opinion and given what is out there already it is epensive and derivative. A bought in hot end, a standard laser cut construction and small build area, with quite a large external dimension doesn't make it premium.

Also trying to trade on the reprap name and spirit whilst charging a premium doesn't sit right. Look at the blurb on the campaign.

Sublime,

Just saw this thread and wanted to let you know that I wish you all the luck with Tantillus it looks like a nice little machine.

As a newb, You've helped me with printing questions, and I hope you reach your goal.

Regards

gerards1111 Wrote:

>
> Also trying to trade on the reprap name and spirit
> whilst charging a premium doesn't sit right. Look
> at the blurb on the campaign.

I thought the RepRap spirit was one of DIY. Provide all the information anyone would need to assemble your design themselves and maybe improve on it, and provide that information to them for free. I never got the idea that "Do It For You" should also be free. I guess you are coming from the perspective that while it is expected that people will freely contribute their hundreds of hours of design effort for the betterment of the community, they should also freely contribute their hundreds of hours of effort in sourcing, packing, assembling and shipping kits and complete printers as well. Charging for anything other than hard material costs shows that you are driven in part by the desire for profit, and not pure, untainted love for the spirit of RepRap.

Creating your own design is its own reward, in the thrill of solving a problem, creating something better, making it just as you would want it, and the desire for reputation in the community. It's easy to give the results of that effort away for free, because it has been paid for, in a sense. The hours packing hundreds of kits and assembling scores of printers doesn't come with those rewards. There may be some satisfaction in helping your design get out into the world, but I doubt it is enough to sustain the level of effort required. If there isn't some other incentive (like money) why go to all the bother when you can be spending that time doing more of the R&D, which is more fun?

They will design a new printer and show you how you can build it and help you out with questions, which you may not be able to do yourself. But if you can then order the parts and put them together yourself, why should they do that for you for free? If you are going to become the kind of person who can contribute to RepRap, then you are going to gain those skills and knowledge by putting everything together yourself. If you want the shortcut of having the hard stuff done for you, why shouldn't you pay?

It seems comments are being deleted off the campaign questioning the open source nature. Not mine.

gerards1111 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> It seems comments are being deleted off the
> campaign questioning the open source nature. Not
> mine.

What makes you think that? Tin-foil hat on too tight?

There were extra comments last night that have been removed. Funnily enough about open source.

I did not delete anything at all. A user calling themselves JustinHawkins had left two comments in a row (exactly as you always do, and did under the name JohnDune as well) that I answered by saying

Quote
Sublime
As stated all files will be released the day the campaign ends which has nothing to do with funding. Simply wait 26 more days.

Which you can still see when you go on my campaign.

That user has then deleted the comments but I left the response. I am 99% sure it was you because they made all the same spelling and grammar mistakes that you always do. But I answered honestly and would never delete a comment because it is fuel for trolls and as I have shown you I am done feeding you you TROLL.

Once again I will not be responding to any of your comments so feel free to make yourself out to be a bigger TROLL.

P.s. You are the first person I have come across that makes me not want to be part of RepRap. It has also made me understand why other companies create their own forum to avoid people like you. Quit ruining this for everyone.

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It wasn't me.

Your whole campaign is an open source begging letter yet it isn't yet open source.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2012 01:48PM by gerards1111.

We should start a kickstarter or indiegogo for this guys campaign to fund a machine for him

@Sublime one ore question about your extruder as this hasn't been discussed so far. You decided to go with a bowden extruder. How do you handle the retraction problem? or don't you work with retractions at all? Bowden extruders are known for not working well with retraction....?

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Frank

Kburr So after 6 months and 18 posts this is what you decide to say. Cannot wait for your next nugget.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2012 04:51PM by gerards1111.

Helmi Wrote:
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> @Sublime one ore question about your extruder as
> this hasn't been discussed so far. You decided to
> go with a bowden extruder. How do you handle the
> retraction problem? or don't you work with
> retractions at all? Bowden extruders are known for
> not working well with retraction....?

With normal speed printing and a high back pressure hotend like the J-head retraction it not as required as with some of the old hotend designs. I do use retract of 2mm at 40mm/s right now which reduces the pressure enough that a move of 200mm/s+ you get little to no ooze. Also the location of Tantillus' extruder allows the shortest / smoothest possible bowden tube which greatly reduces the hysteresis in the filament.

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Sublime, I'd like to say thanks from a supportive member of the Reprap community. I appreciate the work you've put into this design. Although my first attempt at printing the case didn't work (ABS issues), I will definitely try printing again once the PLA gets in.

Keep up the good work, hopefully you are not turned away by the aforementioned "constructive" criticism.

Entropy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sublime, I'd like to say thanks from a supportive
> member of the Reprap community. I appreciate the
> work you've put into this design. Although my
> first attempt at printing the case didn't work
> (ABS issues), I will definitely try printing again
> once the PLA gets in.

Which version did you try? Did you attempt the ones marked ABS with the windows cut out of the to relieve stress? Maybe we should start a collection of info on ABS case print failures on the wiki or the Tantillus forum so we can learn from this and maybe come up with a solution that allows the stress to go somewhere.

>
> Keep up the good work, hopefully you are not
> turned away by the aforementioned "constructive"
> criticism.

Still a great community and a pleasure to be part of. RepRap has brought so much to my life I can't even express it. Seeing individuals with different goals all work together to come up with hundreds of solutions to the same problems which only stems more invention and growth.

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Sublime Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Which version did you try? Did you attempt the
> ones marked ABS with the windows cut out of the to
> relieve stress? Maybe we should start a collection
> of info on ABS case print failures on the wiki or
> the Tantillus forum so we can learn from this and
> maybe come up with a solution that allows the
> stress to go somewhere.

I tried printing one piece of the non-ABS model from ABS and almost succeeded. There was some very minor lifting at the bottom (less than a millimeter over 10-20 mm^2 areas at the ends - the print pulled the PET tape off the base plate) but then two horizontal cracks appeared at 5-6 cm height. However, when I inspected the print, I noticed that the layer fusion was almost nonexistent at the area where the cracks had appeared. The print practically crumbled in my hands. So the root cause of the cracking wasn't the warping forces. If the layer fusion had been good, the part probably would have held up just fine. It looks like more than 5 cm from the heat bed, the thin walls of the part become too cold and the next layer doesn't fuse to the previous properly.

I can't see an orientation for Base_2.stl that doesn't need support material. How did you print it Brad?

Edit: forget that I figured it out.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2012 09:44AM by nophead.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

I printed Base_2.stl with support but I think if you flip it you can print without support.

I did not try the ABS ones. My failure was splitting, like you mentioned would probably happen. It only occurred after my print head slammed into it after a had missed steps on one of my Z steppers. (Wire pulled out) Like I mentioned to you (Sublime), it would have likely happend anyways.

I had the base and top parts all upside down (the way they fit on the bot, not the way they print) and flipped them yesterday into printing orientation and updated the git repo with the parts oriented the correct direction.

I only know of one place where support would help but is not required to print them. I have never to this day used automatic support for anything and design with that in mind. If I feel it needs support I will model in what is needed. If you find anything that needs it I could probably find a way around it, just let me know.

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I downloaded the latest version from github but base_1 and base_2 (the only ones I have printed so far) are not in the orientation I printed them in. They are standing on edge, whereas I printed them with one face on the bed.

As they are oriented there are some top edges of horizontal slots that have a corner suspended in mid air. I can't see how that would print as you cant turn a corner over nothing.

The only problem I had in my orientation was the rounded corners come out a bit scrappy because the bottom of the radius has a much steeper overhang than 45.

I am printing the non-ABS ones in ABS. 0.4mm layers single outline 25% hex fill. I get a little inverse warping that I tend to get with thin flat objects caused by the base cooling after the top when the bed cools down. I think they will pull flat when assembled though.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

nophead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I downloaded the latest version from github but
> base_1 and base_2 (the only ones I have printed so
> far) are not in the orientation I printed them in.
> They are standing on edge, whereas I printed them
> with one face on the bed.
>
> As they are oriented there are some top edges of
> horizontal slots that have a corner suspended in
> mid air. I can't see how that would print as you
> cant turn a corner over nothing.

All of them so far (other than yours) have been printed on their edges. But I am more than willing to add some support to ensure it will print better. Could you provide a picture of where exactly you mean? I would rather not add support somewhere else and find out it was not where you were referring to.

>
> The only problem I had in my orientation was the
> rounded corners come out a bit scrappy because the
> bottom of the radius has a much steeper overhang
> than 45.

Yeah the very first one I tried to print had the round on the top and bottom as well and found the finish was not what I wanted so I made them square.

>
> I am printing the non-ABS ones in ABS. 0.4mm
> layers single outline 25% hex fill. I get a little
> inverse warping that I tend to get with thin flat
> objects caused by the base cooling after the top
> when the bed cools down. I think they will pull
> flat when assembled though.

I had not thought to print it on its side and would imagine that would solve a lot of the issues people were having. If people want one to print in that orientation I could regenerate the stl's with square corners eliminating the issue of the radius.

Thanks for the feedback I know if anyone will get the case to work in ABS it will be you. Also note that the internal parts have been successful in ABS so they will not be an issue.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]