Thought I was doing well, but no clue for this hollow gear

Can anyone point me in the direction of the solution for this setting? I'm trying to print a set of gears I designed in Autocad.

I'm using Slic3r through Repetier host and I've tried what I think are all of the speeds and settings, but I can't seem to get it to print this thing right. The diameter of the interior hole is too small and the top part of the inner gear is hollow between the axle and the gear surface.

ID should be about 4mm for the axle, it's no more than 2 and very slopply.

I've tried .3 to .9 and 1.0 infill density, I've tried different perimeter and shell settings, I've tried everything I can think of



Any ideas?


PS- Using Prusa Mendel V2
Ramps 1.4
Extruder .35
heated bed
No fans set up yet

I'm pretty much calibrated on all of the other parts I've been making (working on the mini-lathe now) all interior holes appear to be correct for those and M8 nuts fit perfectly in the holes where they belong. Outside measurements are all hitting perfectly to within .2mm.

Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Check here:
[forums.reprap.org]

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- akhlut

Just remember - Iterate, Iterate, Iterate!

[myhomelessmind.blogspot.com]

Sweet, thanks! I'll try that.

(The other thread said to set the width explicitly at 1.5-1.7 times the layer height, instead of letting the software fill it in.

I'm using .2 mm, so I'm thinking .3 for the width should do it. Will report back.

Yep. Sometimes slic3r is stupid...

Need to learn skeinforge...

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- akhlut

Just remember - Iterate, Iterate, Iterate!

[myhomelessmind.blogspot.com]

I guess so. I was trying to learn Skeinforge but the interface is not very friendly and my prints were getting worse not better.

I think it requires you to understand all of the settings MORE than Slic3r though, doesn't it (meaning Skeinforge is even dumber but requires the user to be smarter)?

I'm printing with the new settings now, will post results. I can't wait because this is my first soup-to-nuts design and print on the 3D printer and it actually has a function. (it's a hatch gear for my car to replace the 27 y/o plastic one that got half of it's gear teeth sheared off.)

With a 0.35 mm nozzle and a layer thickness of 0.2 mm, I'm quite sure that setting the width at 0.3 would stretch the extruded filament too much resulting in the filament snapping on bridges and sparse infill. You should increase the layer thickness to 0.28 or 0.30 mm to decrease the width.

How fast are you printing? You might need to slow down your x-y feed rate.

You might also want to install a fan. If you didn't turn on the cool feature of slic3r to set a minimum time for each layer at 30 s or more, you should try that too.

download cura. it was designed for for ultimaker, but default settings should work on about any 3d reprap printer.
it includes a faster version of skein forge, an easy setup panel.

[github.com]

simply install it, run the setup. interface is a little clunky, but other than that its prints have been perfect!

Thanks everyone.

That advanced setting for width is definitely the ticket. I still seem some gaps in one or two of the gear teeth but it's MUCH better. I may have to look further into the ID of the gear, it's still too small and uneven. Maybe that's the fan issue. I just got a fan from Ultimachine and I need to install it in the next few days.

I think I'm at 15mm/sec first layer, 20 for perimeters and 30 for infill.

Thanks for the tip on the cool feature. I didn't know there was a setting for that. I'll give it a shot.

The .2 layer height doesn't seem to be an issue, when I do most of my prints the infill is smooth and very clean looking even for bridges.

I checked out Cura a couple of weeks ago. I thought it was good, but didn't give me enough control over the settings. Maybe I just didn't really give it a chance. I'm happy with Slic3r in general, I just think I may need to learn Skeinforge for even more control.