PPA Polyphthalamide is there any way we can print with this?

I like that this polymer is hard and strong and would like to print parts with it. After a little bit of looking I don't see anyone selling filament in it but wouldn't it be a good material to use? Its resilient, durable and hard...here's what I've found so far...

Mold Temperature Control Depending on the grade of AMODEL resin being pro-
cessed, either a water or oil heater will be required to
maintain the proper mold temperature. Amodel A-1000
series grades require mold temperatures of 275 F (135C)
and therefore require oil circulation units. All other
Amodel resins can use water units. The temperature con-
troller should be capable of maintaining heat transfer
fluid temperature to +/-3°F (2°C)
source: [www.scribd.com]

I am a newb and a laymen but I don't think that the mold tempurature is the same as the melting tempurature of PPA, but I can't seem to find anymore info on it.

Anyone have any info or insight or opinions?

Not sure but that seems like a pretty low tempurature. I know I'm a layman and don't know much, but I don't think the mold tempurature is the true meling tempurature of

Mold temperature is approximately equivalent to our heated bed temperature, NOT melt temp.

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www.Fablicator.com

according to this [books.google.com] the melting temperature is ~310C and glass transition is at ~127C, so pretty close to your "mold temperature". Thats really hot so I would say, probably we can't print with this using a PTFE/PEEK heater barrel design. With an all steel or a glass heater barrel it is possible I think. But if we can print with this then we might as well print with nylon. Both materials seem pretty hard to get in filament form.

We just need that extruder so we can make our own plastic filament! Then the sky's the limit.

Arcol V4 goes to 310C just fine, so the temperature isn't a problem (if 310C really is enough).

But if you want a better material than ABS, try polycarbonate. It's available in filament form and not really any harder to print with than ABS, other than requiring about 300C from the extruder.

What about warping? The same as ABS or better?

Warping is in the same ballpark as ABS, but works a bit differently. It seems to work over a longer distance, so that an object which had warping problems had just the ends pull up with ABS, but with PC took on a gentle curve over the whole length of the object. Or at least this is what I found so far. Others may get different results.