Narower 12 Volt power supplies?

As part of my ongoing printer rebuild project, I want to move the power supply under the main frame below the deckplates. I've discovered my existing power supply is not quite narrow enough to go in there though. It could be longer, it could be taller somewhat, but it needs to be about 15mm - 20mm narrower than the current 115mm width. I'm running 12 volt electronics at the moment, so if I switch over to 24 volt it would need some converting for the LED's and whatnot, so Idea''y i'd like to stay with 12 volt. Anyone know of a narrower 3D printer power supply out there that would work?

If you can get hold of a DL380 [www.ebay.co.uk] it's 65mm high if laid on its side (measures 340x80x65mm overall).

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How would I interface into a DL380 power supply? They have those PCI slot like attachments on the end. I actually have access to several Gen 4 and Gen5 power supplies, but I don't know where I could ge tthe socket pieces short of pulling apart a server, and then how would I jumper it on without the motherboard? That would definitly fit if the other parts could be figured out.

Hmm, actually the old G4 power supplies might not be bad for converting. [sites.google.com]

I followed the instructions in this thread initially. [www.rcgroups.com]. Soldering direct to the terminals is easiest.

I've also added a fan mod using a cheapo Zalman fanmate, and a printed end cover. I also break out the 5V standby and PSOn signal, but the fan stays on in standby. I was going to write up a wiki article when I get round to it. There is also a 750W that can be used quite easily.

The fanmate is perfect, because the output is 5V-11V which guarantees the PSU will always turn on (it detects fan current) and you can just swap the connectors and plug in. It does require a hole or gap in the case, I use a Dremel to grind a gap. Alternatively a fixed resistor can be used to drop the current.


090 by donotdespisethesnake, on Flickr

091 by donotdespisethesnake, on Flickr

092 by donotdespisethesnake, on Flickr

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Why not put feet on the printer to raise it up?

it already has feet on it. I don't want to raise it any more than it is if I can help it, purely for asthetics reasons.

Have a look at these. I have just bought a couple to try out, not arrived yet.
[www.ebay.co.uk]

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A 1u, mini ITX, or flex ATX power supply would likely fit. Search on those terms and you should easily find online sources in your area.

I kind of like the idea of getting a dedicated "I don't have to jumper any pins or do any modification" power supply. That one you linked regpye is the right size, but the amperage might be a bit low to drive the printer and the heated bed. The one I have right now is a 360 watt, 30 Amp. I ran across this one though: [www.ebay.com] which looks like it is a pre-modded Dell PSU, it's in the 835 watt 70 amp range though. Is that something that a RAMPS 1.4 board can accomodate, or would that pretty much instantly vaporize my 3d printer? The power side of the electronics is really the area i'm weak in on 3d printer technology.

The amperage doesn't matter if you have more than needed because it will only use what it needs so having extra amperage is a good thing. Having the extra makes your power supply not work as hard as one with barely enough amps, which will help your PSU last longer.

I use an Xbox 360 power supply because they are affordable and long aß well as skinny. I fit one under a current build I'm working on called the JunkBot. They make several different kinds and I have the 203 watt 16.5amp 12v one and it runs all my electronics as well as a 8x8 heated bed with no issues. You can either search for JunkBot or find it on my site at www.reprapsquad.wordpress.com I also have a post on how to modify the Xbox power supply to work with a ramps controller.

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The amperage doesn't matter if you have more than needed because it will only use what it needs so having extra amperage is a good thing. Having the extra makes your power supply not work as hard as one with barely enough amps, which will help your PSU last longer.

It may not be a consideration, but optimal efficiency of the power supply usually is obtained when the required output is near the designed output. That doesn't mean if you need 300 watts to get exactly a 300 watt power supply. But getting a 835 watt supply is overkill, and you'll be losing efficiency over say a 350 or 400 watt supply.