Which plugs and wire?

I'm putting together an order for all the Molex plugs listed for the Duet wifi, and have myself some very nice "Engineer PA-09" crimpers.

As the E3DV6 30mm fan comes with no connector and I'll be adding twin 40mm print cooling fans wired in parallel, I'll need to put plugs/receptacles on them as well.

What do we recommend to use as fan plugs, and does anyone have some part numbers for the genuine items (male/female/pins)?

I'd love to use an opposing plug to the 22-01-2025 molex 2 pin, but there only seems to be circuit board headers for it.

The E3D PT100 comes with a 2 pin plug as well....does anyone know what that one is and again part numbers if possible?

I don't want those pre wired things off ebay as they're bound to be non genuine and I'd rather crimp pins to the ends of my own wiring loom than have soldered and heatshrink joins in there.

Does anyone use that Turnigy silicone insulated wire from Hobbyking in printers? I've really liked it for RC applications and was thinking of using it in my printer.

Any recommendations for wire gauges for fans and PT100/TypeK sensors?

And the heater cable won't be long enough, will normal wire be OK to extend it and should I use barrel crimps or a plug to attach to the wiring? Or can I solder/heatshrink to extend that one?

It's all got to be neat and proper job.

Just trying to get all the cheap little fiddly bits in as I'm out of money for any big stuff.

Many thanks in advance for your advice.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/23/2016 02:35AM by hobbymods.

All production Duet WiFi boards will be shipped with the mating Molex shells and crimp pins. If you want to order more, you will find the part numbers on the Duet WiFi wiki.

Extending the heater cables using soldered joints and heatshrink is OK, but I prefer to use a plug and socket for all the hot end connections, close to the hot end, to make it easier to remove the hot end from the printer.

For the PT100, you can use either a 2 or a 4 wire connection. See my blog for the 4 wire connection. If you use the 4 wire connection then the wire gauge doesn't matter. If you use a 2 wire connection then each ohm of resistance in the wiring will increase the temperature reading by 2.5C. So aim for less than 0.1 ohm total for good accuracy.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I use the hobbyking silicon wire, its just perfect for our application specially for wire that get bend when the head move. I came from R/C world too so I also use servo plug for quick connection , fan/sensor ( and also on the board, where a molex fit, a servo plug will too) and xt-60 for power connector.

Google for Molex Micro-Fit 3.0. They are available as cable plugs and cable receptacles which can be free hanging or cliped into a panel. You should be able to use the same crimping pliers for these as for the standard RepRap ones but it is a bit of an art getting it right without damaging the retaining sprags - after the first few failures I haven't had a failed crimp in the last few dozen connectors.

Mike

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leadinglights
Google for Molex Micro-Fit 3.0. They are available as cable plugs and cable receptacles which can be free hanging or cliped into a panel. You should be able to use the same crimping pliers for these as for the standard RepRap ones but it is a bit of an art getting it right without damaging the retaining sprags - after the first few failures I haven't had a failed crimp in the last few dozen connectors.

Mike

Actually yes they look ideal, and are stocked by the same supplier I'm planning to use.

Cheers for that!