Fastest reprap printer

Hallo all,

Whits reprap printer is the fastest in printing.
My self have a first gen Mendel printed by Adrian. And now i m bilding the Delta printer.
The next printer that i want to bild has to be fast.

Thanks all

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First Gen Mendel made by Adrian Bowyer
Controller: RAMPS 1.4
Extruder: Greg's Wade Universal Accessible Extruder
Firmware :Marlin
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MendelMax extra groot
RAMPS 1.4 grafisch display (diy)
Marlin
E3D v6
220V hotbed (diy)

Lang niks in 3Dprinting gedaan, begin nu weer hobby op te pakken.
Weer begonnen met:

Prusa Graber i3 "wood"
RAMPS 1.4 (mks tft28 v1.2 smart touch)
Marlin
E3D extruder v6 lite

Faster movement does not equal better prints

It is a question that gets raised a lot, we probably need a set of 3 objects that interlock closely, each fit within a 100mm cube build area.

Built with similar parameters, the time to print each object, which interlocked with 2 of the standard pieces could form a metric for speed.

A measure able quality and minimum quality would be harder to achieve, but maybe something single walled and watertight, that actually held water.

Maybe this is something that could be looked at for future contests

My ordbot hadron without pushing for speed I print start layer and external perimeters at around 60 mm/s, infill and internal perimeters around 90mm/s. These numbers don't account for acceleration and slowdown for cooling.

Gaz

Above about 50mm/s accelleration has a massive impact, especially if you are using any infill other than linear.
The problem is that there at are so many contributing factors, the only real way to tell is to print test pieces that are similar to the pieces you want to print.
Machines that minimize moving mass like the Rostock or ultimaker will allow for higher acceleration and possible sustained speeds, but that's irrelevant if you're Hotend can't push plastic consistently at those speeds.
Even stupid stuff like the USB interface can be a limiting factor, I printed two large parts using the same GCode file on the same printer, the first took 7h the second was closer to 5, the only difference was I printed the second from SD Card, because I noticed the printer pausing during the first print, because the USB interface couldn't keep up.

Hi all,

I have been looking for this answer as well for a while and it should be quite simple.
As mentioned above the object could be a design that makes it possible to see if any tolerance where met or not but it could also just be any print of some size. The sliced model must have same amount of bottom and top layers, same number of perimeters and same fill amount.
Every printer seems to be different in many ways, even same models but all that should be needed is to print this object and put the time into a list. In the list you put printer model, nozzle size, layer height,extruder, filament, firmware, electronics, sd or not, maybe pc specs, and the time it took to print. And any other info which may be good.
This way there would hopefully be many samples of times achieved with same model printer.
I know the same printer can achive different print speeds depending on how well it is tweeked and so forth, but all that comes later on.
All I would like to know for now is, what speeds are being achived in times, not mm/s.
And obviously the printed object must be printed ok, no speed printing just to spit a lump of plastic onto the table.
Also as you achive better speeds, maybe post what you changed.

Anyway, just me rambling on.......again.

A few notes:

- "must be printed ok" is obvious, but what this "ok" means is, also obviously, debatable

- Electronics are interchangeable. There are some variations in the feature set, but all of them operate at least two heaters and four stepper motors (where the two motors on the Prusa Z axis counts as one motor). 20 MHz electronics operate 25% faster than 16 MHz ones and then there are these bleeding edge ARM based ones.

- Extruders and hotends are pretty much exchangeable, too.

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY